This is a SLOW buildup of Ole grey. I bought this YJ the 2nd week of Feb in 2014. At the time it had I6, 5 speed manual, 3.55 gears, 31" tires, 2.5" Life, 8k Warn Winch and a couple KC lights.
She had 198,000 on the odometer when I grabbed it. The Fuel gague doesnt work from E to 1/3 tank. The Speedometer half works (sometimes nothing, sometimes 120, sometimes 80, and sometimes works like it should but off by about 10 mph), the stereo SUCKED, and the front speakers were blown. ALso the PVC Hose was broke spewing oil everywhere and the transfer case has a stretched Chain.
Since that time I have installed Kenwood Stereo, Kicker Dash Speakers, Soundbar (plan on upgrading with Pyle 6" woofers), Oil change, Prep for CB, and replced the Center Console.
Also installed a "Kill Switch" consisting of a 3 position Switch and some rewiring. In "Up" mode the fuel pump works and nothing is affected. In "Down" mode the Power is shut off from the Fuel pump and Re-directed to Air Horns. So theives may get about 50 ft down the road but the horns will be blasting at the same time. The Switch is hidden behind a LOCKING STEEL BOX located somewhere on the vehicle. I intercepted the power from the Fuel Pump Relay right at the fuel pump so wouldn't be easy to "override."
Heres some pics as it stands now:
Need to Repair this summer:
Still to come:
Repair to Speedo and correct Gear
New Soft top
New Front and Rear Bumpers
Complete the CB Install
RhinoLine the interior
Rebuild as a Stroker
New Paint Job
I've always wanted a Wrangler since I joined the Navy in 1989, but things always had a way of messing up. So after a "Sports Car Phase" and several "Family" and Economical Phases I'm finally able to live the "Jeeper Dream". This Build will go on for Awhile as Funds are a little tight and it'll take time so be prepared to follow for the Next Couple Years LOL.
Also forgot to put I picked it up for $3500. My 96 Hardbody needed a rebuild Transmission and the cheapest I can find was about $2000. Sold the HB for $1500. So all in all I spent my budget and came out the same lol. I'll end up spending more in the Long run cause the HB was were I wanted it and the Wrangler I'll building up to where I want it lol
While on Vacation, I picked up a couple 4" work lights from HarborFreight and a couple tow hooks. The Work lights I'm going to install on the rear to activate as reverse lights AND have a Toggle where I can keep them on if needed. Going to relocate to the Front KC Lights to the edge of bumper so I can install the Hooks.
Some parts came in while I am on Vacation.
Vacation has been fun and needed but can't wait to get home and start working on the Jeep again
Adding some rear Worklights. Come on with Reverse or I can Override on a Toggle switch to keep them on. Only got one mounted. Screwed up the bolt for the other one so gotta wait till tomorrow to finish. Then going to wire them up:
Also relocated my Front KC lights so I can mount Tow Hooks. Got the 2nd holes drilled but the bolts that came with the hooks aren't QUITE long enough (can JUST see the tip). So gotta wait till tomorrow to finish that too.
The TC Chain came in but still waiting for my Radiator. Tomorrow I'll finish the lights then mount my Steel box in the back that will hold all my equipment I carry and can lock it.
My PCV hose is cut as well. I've got a small oil leak...about 1/2 qt a month. I just changed valve cover gasket because the PO did a sloppy job. I'm wondering is the PCV hose isn't the source of the leak.
Well I found out it's not an actual PVC it's Crankcase Vent. But I had horrendous oil over my motor. Found a crack in the hose about 2" from the Valve cover. Fixed it, cleaned up the motor and still looks great.
My hose is just cut and hanging down below the engine. Engine is also covered in oil and below around the oil pan. I can't find anything the hose would connect to. I've been referring to my chilton book but I don't have the hook ups the book does. Wondering if I can plug it with something.
Both hoses are sniped. The front hose that is supposed to connect to the air box and the hose on the back that gets vacuum from next to the exhaust manifold or brake booster. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Can't remember what engine you have but mine's the 2.5L.
I've tried to find a spot for the CCV fitting to connect and I don't see anything. The air inlet hose doesn't have a connection either by the air filter. However, there is a capped off tube right next the valve cover. It's in the middle of the picture below.
I've also attached some pictures of the area around the air filter. This is my first rodeo fixing a car so I could totally be off but I don't see anywhere for either hose to go.
Hmm....might need a picture of the engine overall. Also I dont believe these hoses would have any issue with idling unless they both were blocked at the Valve Cover. But it appears at least one is open. All these do is relieve pressure off the Engine and cycle the fumes back into the system. On my Camaro I just put a small Air filter on the Inlet and let the outlet drop into a Recovery tank. But I also don't have Smog Checks in my area and this does help on Emissions. Heres a good explanation: What Is a CCV Orifice on a Jeep Wrangler? | eHow
But in all honesty you can just let the intake hang open in the air and collect the "oil particles" in a recovery system. In either case, the Outlet Hose (the one on the side of the valve cover) should go to the Intake Manifold down by your throttle body
I knew I read somewhere that it could cause some idling issues and you're right about the blockage. Thanks for helping me out with this! I think I read somewhere in here about some owners attaching a bottle to collect some fluids. I'll look into that for the intake hose.
No Problem! Also maybe I worded it a bit different.
The Intake side can be just let alone. I'd put a small filter on it to prevent things from getting in, however. The Outlet side needs to be routed back to the Intake Manifold OR have a Recovery tank hooked up to it. Or you'll have Oil everywhere as you do now lol.
It's a good easy fix to track it down. You can definitely get oil out of that cut hose like I did on mine. I haven't used any oil since I fixed mine. Get it fixed, keep track of oil and if it still uses a lot get back to us and we'll go from there.
Was putting the main case back together and when I got done, I finally got around to checking out my muffler. I could see it had a couple dings and dents just wanted to make sure there were no holes. Then I noticed it said Flowmaster lol. No wonder it sounded louder than the others :P
Gotta trace down a exhaust leak somewhere. It's pretty strong in the cab and neighbor noticed it somewhere underneath (it was cold and I just started it).
Are these things prone to leaks in a particular area or should I just start looking?
So, while waiting for parts to come, I've been contemplating life. In this case life in the guise of a D35 rear end. I don't "hardcore" offroad much and run 31's so figured I'd stay with them and get some 4.10 gears.
My mother-in-law is up visiting for a week and it suddenly occurred to me...
7 months ago her SUV transmission died. At the time I told it it wasn't worth fixing cause it also need too much interior, body, engine work to make it worthwhile. So she came up in December and I sent her home in a 1999 Dodge Durango with the 5.2 motor.
Anyways long story short, as I was reviewing the D35 and alternatives, it suddenly occurred to me. Her broken transmissioned 1997 Explorer is still sitting in the backyard.....
I'm thinking of snagging the 8.8 off of it when I take her back home Monday
Bad News: GOt the wife's Durango stuck in the mud in our backyard
Good News: The Jeep's 4x4 and winch works really good
Good News: Tok the Jeep into town today for the first time since redoing everything. TC doesn't leak and works great
Bad News: Got a U joint worn. Didn't even think of it when I had the drive line off.
I'm pretty sure it's the Joint. Slight vibration from a stop for the first 5 mph, then stops until about 45 then starts vibrating again (not real bad, just noticeable). Grabbed the Shaft when I got home. The front of the Rear Shaft is rock solid. The rear of the Rear Shaft moves a bit and clunks.