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Old 02-25-2013, 10:58 AM   #1
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Project "Bugout"

My Project "Bugout" is starting with a 1988 YJ.

Its a Laredo with a 258ci and automatic trans.



















Got started tonight on the tear down.



Topless



Hood, fender flares, seats, carpet, and tires gone................



Inside tub pretty good except for the drivers side floor.





All in all pretty good progress for one evening worth of work.

Today I dropped the belly pan and warmed up the engine to try and find leaks. It would be easier to tell you where it doesn't leak.:thumbdown:

After that I pulled the plugs and did a compression check in each cylinder. I was very surprised from the results. 4 cylinders had 140psi and 2 cylinders had 150psi.


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Old 02-25-2013, 10:59 AM   #2
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I did manage to get the fenders, grill and radiator off today. Also labeled and unhooked all wires, hoses, and linkages between engine and tub. Got all but 2 of the tub bolts out. 2 snapped up inside. Gas filler neck, exhaust hanger, E brake, and transfer boot unhooked. From what I can tell, I should be ready to pick the tub off tomorrow.



Managed to get the tub lifted off. I did miss the 2 bolts in front of the gas tank on the first attempt.


Next on the YJ will be pulling out the motor/tranny.





I did get the Transmission/Transfer Case and Engine out today.









The engines new home for a while.



I sprayed down all the suspension bolts down with Knocker Loose spray, and will let sit overnight like that. Going to start with dropping them off the frame tomorrow.



Had a good day in the garage today, except for just about every bolt I put a wrench on was froze tight!!:rantscream::rantscream:
Ended up cutting quite a few with the cut wheel. So I will have to drill out and fix some of those that are in the frame.



Well we are down to the bare bones now!!



OK here it goes, My planned....To Do and Grocery list to make it possible.


Frame/Suspension

Sandblast
Replace rear shock mounts
Install front Shock hoops
Fix fuel tank cross member
POR 15 frame
Daystar 1" Polyurethane Body Lift
Polyurethane Motor Mounts
Polyurethane Bump Stops
Grease-able Shackles
OME 4" leaf springs
TeraFlex Pitman arm
Borgeson Steering Shaft
New Tie rod & Ends
Skyjacker Shocks
Skyjacker Steering stabilizer kit

Drivetrain

8.8 RearEnd
8.8 swap kit
u bolt yoke
8.8 install kit w/bearings
T&T 8.8 axle truss
8.8 brake line kit
8.8 ebrake cables
OX 8.8 Locker w/manual shifter
Yukon 8.8 c-clip eliminator axle kit
New drive shaft ujoints
T&T D30 axle truss
Superior 4.88 Ring/Pinion (2)
D30 OX 30 spline Locker w/manual shift
Superior Disc Series 30 spline Axle Kit
D30 Master install kit w/bearings
Wheel Spacers
ProComp Extreme AT RAD 33x12.5 (5) On steel rims

Engine/Tranny/Transfer

Freshen Engine New gaskets Seals
Freshen Tranny/transfer new gaskets seals
SYE/CV
Griffin Alum Radiator
New Weber Carb
CRT HEI
Dual Batt. set-up


Tub/Exterior

Drivers side replacement floor panels
Herculiner inside of tub
Auto-meter Phantom Gauges & Pods
Poison Spyder Full cage Kit
SmittyBilt Rear XRC Fender Flares
SmittyBilt Front XRC Tube Fenders 3" Flare
SmittyBilt SRC Front Bumper
SmittyBilt XRC Winch
SmittyBilt SRC Rear Bumper W/Swing tire Carrier
SmittyBilt SRC Side Armor
SmittyBilt XRC Suspension Seats
Offroad Light Bar
Paint Tub


Wish Me Luck!!!!

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:11 AM   #3
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Nice! Keep the updates coming.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:53 AM   #4
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Nice project!

Sounds a lot like mine, but I'm also doing a 5.3 with 1 on axles.

Good luck!
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:14 PM   #5
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Nice, I'd ditch the carb engine if I were you and swap out for either FI or diesel. I had an 87 Loredo and it didn't like the cold.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:18 PM   #6
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If it is in fact a "bugout" vehicle, keep the carb and get rid of the computer...lol
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:25 PM   #7
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Perhaps you could keep a spare PCM stored in Faraday box for a backup if you decided to keep the computer. But if you can eliminate it all together it might be more reliable then a backup.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:18 PM   #8
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sounds like you will have a very nice rig when your done. one comment, por 15 doesn't stick to sandblasted steel to well, it likes a rusted surface to bond to. some chassis paint would work better.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:34 PM   #9
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If it is in fact a "bugout" vehicle, keep the carb and get rid of the computer...lol

Ya I'm good with the carb for the Bugout, simpler is better in my book.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:36 PM   #10
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sounds like you will have a very nice rig when your done. one comment, por 15 doesn't stick to sandblasted steel to well, it likes a rusted surface to bond to. some chassis paint would work better.
Good to know, maybe just knock off the scale and wire brush a bit. Would save a few bucks not having to blast. I think POR is the way to go????


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Old 02-25-2013, 11:38 PM   #11
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I did my frame with POR15. Came out great.
It NEEDS rust to work, or it wont bond.
I wire brushed, scraped, and lightly sanded with 80grit, wiped it all down with acetone, used POR's Metal Ready Spray, and brushed it on. Used about one pint.
POR15 is not UV stable, so it will need a top coat.
I went with Rustoleum HD Enamel spray. Looks great.
Seems to be holding up well.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:19 AM   #12
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Soooo. Let me get this straight. POR 15 is for treating RUST. Not a rust preventive measure. If this is correct you just saved me some money. I have a rust free frame what would be a good rust preventer
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:57 AM   #13
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Hey!

Actually, rusty metals is the preferred surface, but you CAN apply it to bare, sandblasted or other clean metal finishes as long as they are free of contamination/ grease / oil......and also, you should use the 'Metal Ready' etching on the clean metal to promote / enhance adhesion......

I used marine clean, metal ready, por 15 and their black UV topcoat on the axles on a past jeep and they held up great for several years until I sold it....
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #14
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I would stay away from the griffen aluminum radiator. I just put in a new motor in my 89. The motor is slightly modifyed. 4.2 wth HO 4.0 head MPI fuel injection and stainless headers. I had an after market aluminum radiator and electric fan. With the electric fan we could not move enough air to cool the engine it would heat up to 220 or above. Went to bone stock radiator shroud and fan. It runs around 190 or below all of the time even when crawling.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:21 PM   #15
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Hey!

Actually, rusty metals is the preferred surface, but you CAN apply it to bare, sandblasted or other clean metal finishes as long as they are free of contamination/ grease / oil......and also, you should use the 'Metal Ready' etching on the clean metal to promote / enhance adhesion......

I used marine clean, metal ready, por 15 and their black UV topcoat on the axles on a past jeep and they held up great for several years until I sold it....

Sounds good. I think I will wire wheel and flap disc sand the frame as clean as I can and then use the Metal Ready or what ever Pre App my local parts dealer that carries the POR 15 and then the UV top coat.

Thank you for the info. Only want to do this once.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:24 PM   #16
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I would stay away from the griffen aluminum radiator. I just put in a new motor in my 89. The motor is slightly modifyed. 4.2 wth HO 4.0 head MPI fuel injection and stainless headers. I had an after market aluminum radiator and electric fan. With the electric fan we could not move enough air to cool the engine it would heat up to 220 or above. Went to bone stock radiator shroud and fan. It runs around 190 or below all of the time even when crawling.
I was going to stick with the clutch fan, but I would think that aluminium would transfer heat better than the stock rad???????

I understand that you have proven numbers there, but sounds like the fan was the main issue.

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Old 02-26-2013, 12:28 PM   #17
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Is a pint of each Pre, POR, and top coat enough for the frame?

Maybe I should get quarts and do the bottom of tub and diffs too?

Matt
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:37 PM   #18
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I can't get the stuff I need here in town so this is whats going on the first "Bugout" order.

Front Shock Hoops


Rear Upper Shock Mounts


Marine Clean


Metal Ready


POR 15


Chassis Coat "Semi Gloss"
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:43 PM   #19
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What is the purpose of the rear shock mounts? Are you relocating them, are the originals damaged, or. Are the for a different type of shock, other than factory
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:57 PM   #20
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What is the purpose of the rear shock mounts? Are you relocating them, are the originals damaged, or. Are the for a different type of shock, other than factory
The stock brackets are rusted through in the inner corners. Also by removing them and installing these M.O.R.E rear mounts, allows you to use 2" longer shock for more travel.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:56 PM   #21
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Started working on the Bugout frame today.

First on the passengers side rear, I cut off the rusted out stock shock mount to get ready for the M.O.R.E extra travel rear mounts. Under the old mount was a chassis frame rail inspection hole.......



Cleaned it up to see how bad it was. Sounded thin about 2/3's the way down on the inside as I tapped on it. Also notice I removed the upper track bar mount.



I found a piece of 13ga and bent up the new replacement section.



I don't have a Mig, but do have a 185amp Tig/Arc welder. Just takes a bit longer thats all. That is my helper today Chloe Jo "CJ" setting the amps for me.



Notched out the frame for the replacement, and removed last years stash of acorns!!!



Ta Da!



Moving rearward, the gas tank cross member has holes rusted through.



Notched out the bad, and took some measurements.



I picked up this 12" hand shear a couple years ago figuring I would have a use for it someday. Well..............



Mark out some lines on a piece of 16 GA.





The El'ceapo brake



Fits pretty good for the first go at it.



Weld, ground down and relocated and drill holes.



That is it for today. Tomorrow will be a carbon copy of today, just over on the driverside I guess.

Matt
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:12 PM   #22
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I enjoy doing this fab work, and thinking I would like to learn more and try some major DIY mods in the future. Everything I had planned to do was mostly bolt on accessories, and spendy ones at that.

I think I have talked myself into getting a JD tubing Bender and Notcher, and fabrication all my stuff myself. Also going off the deep end and fabricating up a full blown coil-over linked suspension..............Bam!
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:25 PM   #23
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Found a 8.8 with disc brakes at the local salvage yard for $202 plus tax. Think going to go Monday and pick it up.
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:44 PM   #24
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Went and got a 8.8 today. Tomorrow I will start stripping it down to get it ready for the 4 link mock up.



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Old 03-04-2013, 08:31 PM   #25
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Dude that thing is rusty
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:29 PM   #26
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Dude that thing is rusty
Ya not a Texas rear end.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:05 PM   #27
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A little less rusty now. I need to go a get my puller from my job trailer at work to get the pinion out. Pretty much ready for the axle tube weld up and truss build.





Matt
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:54 PM   #28
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Dude that thing is rusty
OMG ha ha ha

Must be nice to have stuff look that good. From my perspective, I was thinking how great it looked! Hardly rusty at all for this area .
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:07 PM   #29
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Going bigger!

Going on Thursday to rescue these from a old ford.











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Old 03-18-2013, 09:58 AM   #30
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Made it home with my new axles. $300 for the pair.










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