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Old 07-03-2013, 09:28 AM   #1
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SBC 406 build thread

Ok so here is the deal. Bought a 90 YJ about a year ago that was already lifted and had a chevy 4.3L swap with a 700r4 transmission. Ran fine on the road but that was not the reason I bought it. Off road it did not have enough power to turn my 35's to make it up any hills. I tried new fuel lines, fuel pump...about anything you could think of to try and make it run better. Nothing worked. So I bought a newly rebuilt chevy 406.

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Old 07-03-2013, 09:32 AM   #2
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Now just so everyone knows, this is my jeep but I am not the one that is doing the swap. I work 7 days a week with a handful of breaks a year and hardly have the time or knowledge to do a swap like this.

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Old 07-03-2013, 09:36 AM   #3
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Started by pullin the 4.3 out

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Old 07-03-2013, 09:42 AM   #4
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Id say a 406 will turn 35s with no problem. Looking forward to the build.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:47 AM   #5
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These are just a few of the parts that I ordered from amazon for the motor

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Also bought fenderwell exit headers and a pair of flowmaster 40 series mufflers
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:13 AM   #6
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This is just a mock up to see how everything might fit, which, unfortunately it didn't....welll not quite

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Old 07-03-2013, 10:30 AM   #7
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It bolted right up to the 700r4, which I decided to keep instead of buying a new one. My problem was that my fender well exit headers would be rubbing on my tires when I turned, and my fan pulley would be cutting into my new radiator! I didn't want to shorten my driveshaft as it was short enough already. So my solution was to order a slip yoke eliminator from Advanced Adapters. I have the np231c transfer case and was not sure if the sye kit would work on it since it says it was for an np231j t-case. It was the only shot i had though. Luckily for me it worked!

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This allowed my motor to be pulled back around 5" which gave me enough clearance for my fan pulley, and enough clearance for my tires to turn without going near my headers. It also allowed me to extend my driveshaft roughly 3" more. So I ordered a new 18"driveshaft from Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:53 PM   #8
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Thanks for posting the build thread.

I am in process of a simlar build although mine is a 92 that started out as a 4 cylinder with the AX5. In my case the 406 (bored oversize 400) is a fresh rebuild although I retained the original cast iron heads I did have hardened exhaust seats installed. I am also using a 750 CFM Holley carburetor with the Endelbroch Performer intake.

In my case I am doing a tub off restoration so alot of frame repairs so far with body repairs to come.

I am plannning to use the Jeep in tank fuel pump with a regulator to knock the fuel pressure down to carbruetor levels.

I purchased a used NV3550 5 speed transmission to retain the overdrive feature and be strong enough (I hope) for the 406.

I am using Novak engine mounts, headers (inside the frame), transmission adapter, etc.

I have not located my engine in the frame yet (I hope this weekend).

What is your firewall to distributor clearance? As I understand the engine location is a compromise between the firewall clearnace and the radiator clearance.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:43 PM   #9
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Its close....kind of, id say about 2 inches clearance. I would grab you an exact measurment but im not near the jeep.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:45 PM   #10
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The pic above can kind of give you a rough estimate I suppose. Its the only pic I have with the distributor on
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:57 PM   #11
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That Ought6 should really make that jeep fly. I want to see how this comes out.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:03 PM   #12
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i have a video of it running on youtube. Haven't been able to drive it yet as i do not have the driveshaft yet. Should be here Monday. Check it out and let me know what you think. 90' Jeep Wrangler YJ sbc 406 - YouTube
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:00 PM   #13
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This is my header and flowmaster setup. The flowmaster exhaust sits just below the drivers door. It is welded to the flange and bolted straight to the header. Makes for a good sound and looks pretty good. Both are painted with flat black high heat header paint.
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:16 PM   #14
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:25 PM   #15
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Axle swap hopefully coming soon
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Old 12-16-2013, 03:15 PM   #16
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Reminds me of when I did my 406 in my yj. I had a hard time keeping mine cool at 1st. The new alum rad I got helped. I also was running a fixed blade fan without a clutch. If your running lot's of off camber stuff you may have to adjust your floats. Mine is fuel injected now which is nice. I had a quadrajet in before that ran the best off camber. The edelbrock before that had the most power but was terrible off camber.
Next your going to need big axles!!!!
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Old 12-16-2013, 03:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Reminds me of when I did my 406 in my yj. I had a hard time keeping mine cool at 1st. The new alum rad I got helped. I also was running a fixed blade fan without a clutch. If your running lot's of off camber stuff you may have to adjust your floats. Mine is fuel injected now which is nice. I had a quadrajet in before that ran the best off camber. The edelbrock before that had the most power but was terrible off camber.
Next your going to need big axles!!!!
Mine was running pretty hot even after I got the new radiator. Just so happens that removing the thermostat was a very simple fix for that. I have not had a problem since.
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #18
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That is gonna be sweet!!! A guy I run with has a 406 in a yota. It is a mover and a shaker man. He runs mud and sand drags with it and plays around too. 500hp and some race cut boggers will get you through some stuff!!
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:09 PM   #19
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That is gonna be sweet!!! A guy I run with has a 406 in a yota. It is a mover and a shaker man. He runs mud and sand drags with it and plays around too. 500hp and some race cut boggers will get you through some stuff!!
I love it! I've taken on a few mild trails and sand hills and believe me, it scoots. Great motor. Just need to beef up the axles
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:14 PM   #20
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Aer you still on stock axles?
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:21 PM   #21
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Aer you still on stock axles?
Unfortunately I am :/ stock axles running 35" tires. I am deciding on axles now actually. Would like a nice strong axle that isn't going to be too costly or take too much effort to put in. Not sure if I would like to go full size or stick with stock width. Probably stock width if I had to choose.
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:38 PM   #22
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Im not running big hp. Just stock 4.0... Im staying stock width and running 37s on mine. Well thats the plan. I want to stay as narrow as possible for some of the trails I run. Im on 35s now, stock axles with yukon shafts in the rear and spartan lockers. Got a good parts pile going for SOA, 8.8 and built HP-D30 axle swap, locked with 4.88s.

If I were in your position I would get an 8.8 and slap in that puppy. Leave the d30 and see how long it lasts. I bet you will be surprised. They arent a horrible diff like the d35. Im sure if you try to break it you can with that power plant but, you could buy 7 or 8 d30s for the cost of a D60 front. You can beef them up pretty easily and unless you go full width you wont find anything much stronger without spending a lot of dollars.

The 8.8 is stronger than a D44 and real close in line behind the D60 rear as far as strength goes. Theyre ran in dragsters all the time... I wouldnt get a limited slip 8.8. The limited slip is the weak point in them. Get an open one and lock it up if you decide its not good enough
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:39 AM   #23
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Im not running big hp. Just stock 4.0... Im staying stock width and running 37s on mine. Well thats the plan. I want to stay as narrow as possible for some of the trails I run. Im on 35s now, stock axles with yukon shafts in the rear and spartan lockers. Got a good parts pile going for SOA, 8.8 and built HP-D30 axle swap, locked with 4.88s.

If I were in your position I would get an 8.8 and slap in that puppy. Leave the d30 and see how long it lasts. I bet you will be surprised. They arent a horrible diff like the d35. Im sure if you try to break it you can with that power plant but, you could buy 7 or 8 d30s for the cost of a D60 front. You can beef them up pretty easily and unless you go full width you wont find anything much stronger without spending a lot of dollars.

The 8.8 is stronger than a D44 and real close in line behind the D60 rear as far as strength goes. Theyre ran in dragsters all the time... I wouldnt get a limited slip 8.8. The limited slip is the weak point in them. Get an open one and lock it up if you decide its not good enough
I'll have to give them a check out then. I would like to stay stock width or close to it as well. I could go full size but I do happen to like how mine sits now at stock width.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:51 AM   #24
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Mine is already 79" wide with just tires and wheels. A 90" wide Jeep just doesnt seem as enjoyable to me. Some of my favorite trails are old wagon roads from the mining days. Really narrow and if you go over your not gonna stop for quite a while in places. Plus my trailer is only 82" wide...lol
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:03 AM   #25
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Mine is already 79" wide with just tires and wheels. A 90" wide Jeep just doesnt seem as enjoyable to me. Some of my favorite trails are old wagon roads from the mining days. Really narrow and if you go over your not gonna stop for quite a while in places. Plus my trailer is only 82" wide...lol
You make a good point. I think I may try and stick with something closer to stock width
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:02 AM   #26
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In my Yj I have narrowed HP d60s front and rear. I started with 33s then jumped to 35s with a d44 front and d60 rear. I went through to many shafts in the d44 so I upgraded to a 60 front and 39.5s. The bigger tires have a way of breaking parts when you have your foot in it. The 30 spline stubs are the weak link along with the u-joints and lock-outs. I have twisted a few d-shafts and snapped the output shaft on the t-case My jeep is about 80" to the outside of the tires
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:13 AM   #27
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In my Yj I have narrowed HP d60s front and rear. I started with 33s then jumped to 35s with a d44 front and d60 rear. I went through to many shafts in the d44 so I upgraded to a 60 front and 39.5s. The bigger tires have a way of breaking parts when you have your foot in it. The 30 spline stubs are the weak link along with the u-joints and lock-outs. I have twisted a few d-shafts and snapped the output shaft on the t-case My jeep is about 80" to the outside of the tires
Is it relatively simple to narrow an axle? and how many inches did you narrow each axle?
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:42 PM   #28
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I had somebody else narrow them for me. i don't have a lath or a mill. i narrowed them approx. 5" total. He also shaved the front 60 for more clearance.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:20 AM   #29
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I had somebody else narrow them for me. i don't have a lath or a mill. i narrowed them approx. 5" total. He also shaved the front 60 for more clearance.
Alright cool. I have some machine shops near me so that would always be an option

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