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Old 11-03-2013, 08:55 AM   #1
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Simon Says build thread

After being a member since July, and starting many new threads just for one question I think it's time to condense info and start a build thread.

Since July I've switched phones and haven't collected all of my old pics yet, so I'll just say what's done up to now. When I got her she was stock minus a tj front bumper, a rear tube bumper and 30" tires.
(see first pic)
I removed the old smelly carpet within a week, put new seat covers on it, and cleaned everything inside and out. Then I realized that the stock headlights were less than acceptable, so I got 55w 6000k HIDs from DDM tuning and Rampage conversion housings. Needless to say I can see to drive at night now.
Next came a 4" lift kit from Rough Country with their dana 30 diff. covers and 1.5" wheel spacers. The lift kit fought me the whole way but I won the war.

Since then I've had some problems with a leaky fuel line, a broken wheel spacer, and an ongoing blow by problem.

But here's how she sits today
(see other pics)

My future plans and such will be discussed later. And I'm new to this, so any input is appreciated.
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:31 PM   #2
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Looks like a good start. Don't get discouraged, the problems will be endless, afterall it is 18 yrs old.

I have 1 question, why the wheel spacers? 30" tires on stock Jeep wheels, wouldn't require any spacers, or is it just a cosmetic thing? Cause the 1 1/2" spacers would put undo pressure on the ball joints and bearings, I just can't see the reason for using them.

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Old 11-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #3
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The spacers are about 80% cosmetic honestly. Since the lift I've had them off once for a week, and could only notice a small difference in turns.

I've actually got a set of 15x8 wheels with around 3.5 inches of back spacing laying around waiting for paint and tires. When those get put on, I'll probably ditch the wheel spacers unless they're needed for clearance
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:20 AM   #4
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So I have a question for all of you fabricators. I'm interested in a 120v flux core welder. And I know that some people are going to say to save up hundreds or thousands for a good welder, but I'm going to learn to weld with this and my first main project is to fix my floor. I've done enough research to know that a 120v will be good enough for this.

But my problem is that I have a lot of ideas with diamond plate aluminum (fenders and body armor type stuff). And I haven't found any welders that can use accessories and weld aluminum. Do any of you have an answer to my problem?
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:29 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by simonclay View Post
So I have a question for all of you fabricators. I'm interested in a 120v flux core welder. And I know that some people are going to say to save up hundreds or thousands for a good welder, but I'm going to learn to weld with this and my first main project is to fix my floor. I've done enough research to know that a 120v will be good enough for this. But my problem is that I have a lot of ideas with diamond plate aluminum (fenders and body armor type stuff). And I haven't found any welders that can use accessories and weld aluminum. Do any of you have an answer to my problem?
For aluminum, you will need a mig welder and spool gun. You might be able to feed aluminum wire through a traditional mig gun if you are able to keep the wire path very straight. Aluminum wire will kink and bend if you look at it wrong, which is why the spool gun is used (very short wire path). Another choice would be some kind if TIG welder, but that's bigger bucks and a bit harder to master.
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:36 AM   #6
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Ok. Thanks for the quick reply. will I be able to use a spool gun with a 110v without gas?
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:56 AM   #7
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Ok. Thanks for the quick reply. will I be able to use a spool gun with a 110v without gas?
Aluminum requires shielding gas. As far as I know, flux core aluminum wire does not exist.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:01 AM   #8
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You can by a stick welder and try alum rods but if you are a beginner you will be grinding off and trying again and again and again alum stick sucks to weld and takes a lot of skill and patience that most welders lack not mention I am not even sure if they sell a rod you can weld vertical welds with alum.

Having said all of that I am a fan of give it a try!

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Old 11-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #9
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You would need either a mig with shielding gas and a spool gun, or a tig welder to weld aluminum diamond plate. You can't do it with a stick and aluminum rods cause the aluminum isn't thick enough and all you are going to do is burn through.

I have a 120V flux core mig welder that I bought from harbor freight. I have done numerous jobs on my YJ with it and it performs flawlessly. If you are doing body tin welding, use the .030 wire, and welding anything thicker use the .035 wire. The only things I can say bad about the welder is that it will only hold a 2lb spool of wire, and it has a lot of plastic parts in it that are going to fail, and you can't buy any replacement parts for it. It is basically a disposable welder, hence the money they want for it. But it's perfect for the person wanting to learn how.
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Old 11-18-2013, 04:14 PM   #10
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Ok. Thanks guys.

I think, for now at least, I'll just get a flux core. So I can learn and fix my floor. Then when I'm ready for aluminum work I can either upgrade tools, use rivets, or just use steel.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:30 PM   #11
Guesses a lot ;)

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I picked up a used lincoln migpak 10 a while back and it will run flux core or gas. I think for a little more money you could get a combo like that instead of just a flux wire. You dont have to buy a regulator and tank right off the bat either. Just my thoughts. I have about 3 hours of welding experience...
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:41 PM   #12
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New question guys. I'm looking for a rear bumper with a tire carrier because my factory mount has ruined my hinges and its starting to do a number on the tailgate. I think I've narrowed it down to a smittybilt/tuff country/rugged ridge or a barricade bumper. Do you guys have any opinions on the two?

Here's the barricade bumper. I like that it is adjustable for different backspace. And it doesn't have the tube going straight up, which I remember someone on here saying caused their bumper to rust because the cap broke and let water in. Barricade Classic Wrangler Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier J20852 (87-06 Wrangler YJ & TJ) - Free Shipping J20852 - Free Shipping over $75!

Here's the tuff country. Its a little cheaper than the barricade.
87 06 Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ Rock Crawler Rear Bumper Tire Carrier Swing D Rings | eBay

Any input is appreciated
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:31 PM   #13
Guesses a lot ;)

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My buddy runs the tuff country one and it seems to be pretty good. Its also easy to add a rack to on top of the spare..

Or you could invest that money in metal fab tools and go from there. Build your own and have tools to build fenders, rock sliders, front bumper...
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:37 PM   #14
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That is what I would love to do. But its going to take some time to accumulate the tools. Not to mention learning to use them. I never thought about making a rack with the tuff country, that's a damn good idea
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:34 PM   #15
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I have run the same tomken rear bumper and swing out tire carrier for 15 years and it has stayed solid!
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:40 PM   #16
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Check them Out you will not be disappointed
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:24 PM   #17
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Just checked out Tomken bumper, And that thing is a beast. It looks good, but its not what I'm really looking for. Thanks for the recommendation though!
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Old 11-30-2013, 02:35 PM   #18
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New question guys. My 4.0 suffers from blow by, and I want to fix it. Or at least put a good band aid on it. The question is, how do you guys recommend doing that? I was thinking new CCV fittings, hoses, and cleaning the valve cover.

And does anyone know where I can find the fittings or their part numbers
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:55 AM   #19
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What thickness of metal does everyone recommend for a front bumper? I haven't found any online that are exactly what I want.

And if anyone has the part numbers for the 4.0 ccv fittings, I could really use that info
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonclay View Post
After being a member since July, and starting many new threads just for one question I think it's time to condense info and start a build thread.

Since July I've switched phones and haven't collected all of my old pics yet, so I'll just say what's done up to now. When I got her she was stock minus a tj front bumper, a rear tube bumper and 30" tires.
(see first pic)
I removed the old smelly carpet within a week, put new seat covers on it, and cleaned everything inside and out. Then I realized that the stock headlights were less than acceptable, so I got 55w 6000k HIDs from DDM tuning and Rampage conversion housings. Needless to say I can see to drive at night now.
Next came a 4" lift kit from Rough Country with their dana 30 diff. covers and 1.5" wheel spacers. The lift kit fought me the whole way but I won the war.

Since then I've had some problems with a leaky fuel line, a broken wheel spacer, and an ongoing blow by problem.

But here's how she sits today
(see other pics)

My future plans and such will be discussed later. And I'm new to this, so any input is appreciated.
Looks good. I like the color.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:00 PM   #21
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I'm looking to lift my wife's YJ and put 31/10.50/15's on it. I was thinking of staying with a 2 inch lift. But what do y'all suggest.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:29 PM   #22
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If you're looking to fit 31's, a two inch lift would probably be great. But it depends what your wife is going to be doing with the jeep as to the best way to lift it. You can do a suspension, body, or shackle lift.

Body lifts are cheap, and can be easy. But on a jeep this old bolts can be rusted and can make a body lift hell to put on. Plus most people recommend not going higher than 1" because it can just get unsafe with body roll.

Shackle lifts can be about as cheap as body lifts, and can be as expensive as suspension lifts. They aren't very difficult to put on. If your shackles don't articulate the way the way they should, then new bushings or new shackles with new bushings can improve articulation and ride quality. Again people don't recommend going big on shackle lifts either. Because not only do they look really bad when they go big, but tall shackles can be unsafe since they can allow lateral movement of the leaf spring.

Suspension lifts offer the most variety in price, contents, and quality. There are countless threads on this forum that discuss "my lift is better than yours". So I'm not going to open that can of worms. But I will say that my RC 4" lift does its job well, but it does ride a little rough. I'm VERY happy with it though.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:32 PM   #23
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And I am by no means no expert on anything, especially this stuff. But I've spent hours researching on this forum, many other websites, and magazines. So I know very little about a lot of stuff. This is all just my opinion.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:43 PM   #24
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I found the parts for the valve cover. Thanks to a thread titled "PCV valve" in the yj tech section.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sierchio View Post
Old thread but I have the NAPA part numbers for the CCV valves... the elbows (ccv valve or pvc valve whatever you want to call it) the napa part number is 630-1076 and 630-1078 and the grommets... the part that goes underneath the ccv valve is 630-1411
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:13 PM   #25
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And I am by no means no expert on anything, especially this stuff. But I've spent hours researching on this forum, many other websites, and magazines. So I know very little about a lot of stuff. This is all just my opinion.
Kool thanks. We do a lot of trails. So we may go with the 4 inch lift.
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:38 PM   #26
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I used everything that came with my 4" kit. Namely a transfer case drop. Some people don't like them because they decrease the clearance of the skid plate. You only lose 1.5 inches, but you're gaining the 4+" of lift. The only time I personally think it would matter is if you wheel in rocks. But to each his own

With a 4" lift you will be bordering the SYE level. Some jeeps need a SYE after a 4" lift, some don't. Keep that in mind because you don't want to spend all your money on a lift, and then need a SYE and driveshaft.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:52 AM   #27
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I ordered tires and wheels a couple days ago. It was a set of 5 MTR/Ks. So now I want to know how you all recommend rotating a spare in with the other four? I'm planning to rotate them every 3000 miles or so, but do I swap the spare in for a certain tire? Plus since the MTR/k is asymmetrical, does it matter if I run it on the right or left when I rotate it? If I need a spare I'll put it where it's needed of course
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:56 AM   #28
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Just a taste of what's to come
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:57 PM   #29
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One more preview, I'm excited!
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:21 PM   #30
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Got my tires mounted and balanced last Saturday. Then installed Sunday. The KJ in the picture is my buddy's, he help install them Sunday.



But now I've found that my 4wd isn't working (Damn CAD). And my rear tires have ~˝" of clearance from the flares. So now I'm looking into posi lock and flares/fenders/more lift. It really never ends!
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