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Old 06-09-2012, 07:15 PM   #1
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THE 93 YJ Build (Lots of pics)

Making this thread for myself, others, and most important to get some advice along the way from some of you jeep experts on here... Ill be having a lot of questions lol.

So.. just bought my first jeep. Paid $1,000 for it.
Hope you guys enjoy this thread (its gonna be a long one) as much as I enjoy working on and posting my progress
Its a 93 YJ 6 Cylinder 5 speed manual.
I bought it from a guy from new hampshire so its a new england car.... Main issue being Rust. I drove it home and began work on it immediately. It was an hour drive and thankfully I made it home with no issues.

Here it goes.....

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Old 06-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #2
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Here are some pics after I pulled it into my driveway..
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #3
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Took off doors then top... Looking better already
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #4
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Couple interior pics
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:27 PM   #5
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Interior gutted minus drivers seat so I can still drive it in and out garage
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:30 PM   #6
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Two more. You can see large whole, this is on passengers side behind seat where lower portion of seat belt bolts in
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:34 PM   #7
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Tomorrow I will sandbast the entire interior floor and then see what im working with. Previous owner riveted in drivers side floor pan from JC Whitney. I will burn that in and make a piece to weld in on passengers side where hole is. Then I will spray some truck bed coating over the whole thing to keep it protected until I find a rug either new or used to put in. I have just a cheapo harbor freight self fluxing 110 volt mig welder. I can sometimes get get welds, other times not so much. I want something that Is reliable, easy to use, versatile, and enough power for up to about 1/4 or 3/8 inch metal. Any suggestions would be great
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:36 PM   #8
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Rust, rust rust!! loooks like a jeep! have fun, my dads cj7 was like that when we got it. luckily my yj has 0 rust
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:32 PM   #9
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Rust on the floors and tub turned out to be not too too bad for a new england car but still not ideal. Gonna start recording hours and money spent.

Saturday: 5 Hours Sandblasting, welding floor patches etc.
Sunday: 5 Hours removing decals, hood pins, rear bumper half circle things, prepping and painting interior and more.

Money: Skil Grinder 29
Auto Dark Helmet 70
Shop Vac 25
Paint/Sand/Metal 40

Will Post some pics of interior tomorrow
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:02 PM   #10
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Not a bad deal for $1000. Definitely seems like a fun project. I just bought my YJ as a project as well, good luck!
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:27 PM   #11
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Yeah 1000 wasnt bad. Just sucks I live up north, rust just kills cars. I go to school in Georgia, probably shoulda waited till then to buy one but I just couldn't wait haha
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:33 PM   #12
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you couldnt touch a jeep in GA for 1k. if you dont mind fixing rust then you did good.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stykthyn View Post
you couldnt touch a jeep in GA for 1k. if you dont mind fixing rust then you did good.
Yeah I know, they're in great shape but much more expensive. I'll do some rust repair and it'll be okay. Needs to be ready to make the 1000 mile drive to ga mid august
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:33 PM   #14
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Unfortunately the first couple weeks of this build will be boring stuff, mainly rust repair, frame repair, and body work. Update as of now, I got floors and tub very solid. I welded in patches, then caulked around edges for water sealing. Then primed, undercoated then topcoated with glossy black. Second can of undercoating was a bad can and kind of f...ed up the whole paint job. Came out of can very oily, drippy, and almost sudsy. Its okay though, Im putting a carpet in anyway, just wanted to make sure i had a good coat of paint for future rust protection. Then today i did some body work on engine bay followed by three coats of high temp paint. There were only two rusty spots on inner wheel wells in engine bay. Still need to finish hood.

Money: 20 dollars on paint for engine bay and sand for sandblasting

Next step is gonna be the most boring, tedious, and knuckle busting work. Repairing a 20 year old new england frame and undercarriage.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:58 PM   #15
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Floors and tub are now completely solid. Pics of blue engine bay before paint are below. I still need to sandblast/ paint/oil up jack and then sandblast and paint horn. Then finish painting underside of hood.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:22 PM   #16
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Don't forget the real stuff, shocks, brakes, exhaust, wiper blades, body mounts and bushings, trac bars front and rear bushings, steering stabilizer. I got one like yuors and its amazing how much basic it needed. Nothing like the floor though, I had to replace the entire drivers floor the rest cleaning and POR. Check oil, all fluids, clutch and last but not least stabilzer bar bushings, seems bushings just rot away on the old ones.

Looks like a fun project, take your time test at each stage. Mine is int he paint shop this week, get it back friday, decals and its "done" what ever that may be.....remember built not bought! Oh, check recalls, I got a free cat converter and parking brake assembly!

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Old 06-13-2012, 08:27 PM   #17
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Thanks, Everything you just mentioned I'm doing. I'm tackling rust first. I'm ordering 4 inch rough country lift tomorrow and going to put in a flowmastee 40 series/new tailpipe when I do the lift. How'd you get the free cat and parking brake? Just called a dealer...?? Thanks

Ordered 15 drain plugs: 6 dollars
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:32 PM   #18
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Anyone have some front fender support braces laying around they wouldn't mind giving away for cheap? Mine are completely rotted out
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carralo1 View Post
Gonna start recording hours and money spent.

Awe man, it's a Jeep (Just Empty Every Pocket).........Do ya really want to know what you're going to spend? Me thinks I'd rather enjoy knowing that I did it for so much less than some of our bretheren who are too lazy, unable, or have no access, and have to pay a shop to do all those hours.



BTW...Off to a nice start!
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:43 PM   #20
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Awe man, it's a Jeep (Just Empty Every Pocket).........Do ya really want to know what you're going to spend? Me thinks I'd rather enjoy knowing that I did it for so much less than some of our bretheren who are too lazy, unable, or have no access, and have to pay a shop to do all those hours.



BTW...Off to a nice start!
Bahaha J.E.E.P I like that one. Yeah it'll cost some money but that's okay, that's why I only paid a thousand for it lol. And yeah I live the fact that when it's done, I'll be able
To say I built it. And these things are soooo easy to work on compared to other vehicles I've owned. If it weren't in the rust belt, this thing would be a breeze, everythings right there in front of you.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:23 PM   #21
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I just picked up a 94 YJ 2 weeks ago for $3000. The first thing I did was go to a garage to get a laundry list of things to fix. Definitely shop around as there is a big price spead for parts. Check rebates too. Great starting price - Bob
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:57 PM   #22
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Spent two hours today sandblasting, and wire wheel grinding with a dewalt wire wheel adapter for their angle grinder, worked great would recommend it. Frame is looking better and a little more solid than I thought. Motor mount areas will need some welding repair, a couple small issues in the rear over the wheel wells and the main issue is the tranny crossmember. The crossmember itself Is rough. Anyone got an extra laying around maybe someone from the south where they don't salt the roads? Please let me know. Anyway, sandblasted wheel well areas and all undercarriage along with rear bumper and gas skid plate. Will be adding some diamond plate to gas skid plate so I didn't go nuts on it. I am goin to have to have a piece of steel welded to bottom side of frame on both sides where tranny crossmember bolts in. There are only 3 bolts holdin in that crossmember right now the others are completely rusted out.

Ordered 4 inch rough country from rc. $491 shipped for kit and the bolt set for leaf springs ($25). Shipping was 70 dollars but they gave me 10 percent discount. Any suggestions in installing this would be greatly appreciated. Ive been soaking bolts in pb.

My main concern is tranny crossmember and how it's bolted in. I can cut the bolts off but am afraid of how I can get a nut on the inside of frame. My idea is this...

Jack up tranny in front of crossmember. Unbolt/ cut off if need the bolts. Remove crossmember. Then cut some 1/4 inch sheet metal to same width ( a tad less) of underisde of frame and then measure and drill holes for the three bolts. Then weld in flare nuts. Drill a couple extra holes on each side and weld in flare nuts there too. Then put it up and where I put the extra flare nuts/ holes, drill a hole in frame so the nut fits up inside and then thread in a bolt and try my best to weld the whole thing in. Anyone think this will work or what? How have you guys repaired this issue?
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:28 PM   #23
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nice build! i just started mine..i paid 3k for mine it came from Delaware-
brought it to FL-
93 YJ
almost the same exact rust in the same exact spots-
mines not as bad though
but close! lol
good luck..if you have any idea where a guy can get the service manual in pdf ? that would be sweet-
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:40 PM   #24
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Just picked up this one (94 2.5L auto) for $1,750 here in San Diego. Needs some minor body work, maybe valve seals, but a strong start! Will be towing behind my RV soon.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:48 PM   #25
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hey guys i had rust like that too in all those spots right below the jeep letters, right infront of rear fender flare, just an fyi (for mine atleast) i had plastic wheel wells in the rear if you pull that off its all metal mine was all rusted just an fyi, also i saved money because i found a deal lol but fiberglass front fenders and a fiberglass hood no more rust haha
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #26
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Main concern is this... Any ideas on the tranny crossmember frame rail rust. From guys who have repaired it
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #27
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Have you tried just taking the bolts out on the cross member? Mine came out with no problem, didn't even need PB,but then mine had very little rust anyway.
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:11 PM   #28
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Never mind. I didn't see the part about it being rusted real bad.
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'93 YJ / 3.5" lift (2.5" Old Man Emu suspension and 1 inch shackle) / 31 X 10.50 BFG's / 2.5 power / 5 speed / Quadratec winch..........KCCO!!!
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #29
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Ya I can get em out, even If I have to cut them out. The issue is I need something to thread those new bolts into
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:36 PM   #30
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what i did (kinda cheated) i took the bolts out, the nut/whatever was still in the frame, so i removed as much rust as i could then welded all the holes, it kept the hole in the same place, with the threads, and everything is still working, just depends how bad real bad is for you compared to me

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