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Old 08-29-2009, 12:09 AM   #31
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Today was another slightly slow day and had a nasty little surprise for me.

While I was waiting for my GF to get home from work with some nice short 3/8" fasteners for the engine block-off plates so that I could start degreasing and cleaning it I went to town on the 14-bolt. . .I went through one wire wheel, but I was able to get it 90% cleaned up. . .I need to get some more wire wheels so that I can get it 100% cleaned up and I'm gonna pull the cover so that I can change the oil and inspect the gears tomorrow. . .here's the 14-bolt 90% cleaned up.



Next week I'm gonna order the disc brake caliper brackets (probably from BTF) and I'll start hunting the local junkyards for the '75 Chevy brake calipers, so I'm not cleaning the backing plates/drum brakes. . .would just be a waste of time. I decided to do this now because of the nasty surprise I found today and the fact that the 14-bolt was missing on backing plate already.

I'm also gonna start cleaning the Dana 60 tomorrow, getting it ready for paint, and inspecting it's gears as well.

My first shipment of chemicals from Eastwood showed up today. . .on quart of Rust Converter, one quart of Rust encapsulator, and two cans of Radiator black. . .I already ordered two extra spray cans of the Rust Converter (will probably still need more since I'm doing the frame inside and out, the front and rear axles, and maybe the springs while I'm at it) to get into the harder to reach places. . .wish I had an air compressor and a spray gun, sure would make this part easier. . .and probably look nicer as well. Eastwood's gonna be getting quite a bit of business from me over the next 3 weeks I'm sure!

And now for the nasty surprise. . .the 350 SBC that was in the Willy's has a HUGE crack in the driver's side of the block. . .starts right along the #8 cylinder wall, all the way through #6, and probably into #4 cylinder wall as well. . .haven't seen a crack quite like this before. . .so I'm not gonna waste any more time (or engine cleaner) on this block. I'll concentrate on the frame for now because I can build an engine downstairs once it starts raining and gets cold if I need to, but working outside on the frame, suspension will be a PITA if I don't get that done.



The crack was hiding underneath a pretty thick layer of grease/oil/dirt and was behind the exhaust manifold. . .I don't know if the previous owner knew about it or not, but I couldn't see it until I actually blasted the majority of the sludge off the outside of the engine. So I'll concentrate our time and money on the rest of the project for now and worry about the engine and rest of the drivetrain after I have a rolling chassis. . .things have already been test fit as far as the drivetrain goes for clearance so I know there aren't any issues there so I feel comfortable concentrating on the rolling chassis.

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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
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'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:12 AM   #32
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Bummer about the motor, man. However, SBCs are a dime a dozen, so replacing it shouldn't be hard or expensive. This is a cool build!! I can't wait to see it when it's done. Keep the pics coming!!!!

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Old 08-29-2009, 12:51 PM   #33
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Will do, today will be slow again. . .I have no more money until probably this coming Wednesday to spend on the project, but I will continue to work on it with what I have on hand. Continue cleaning up the front and rear axles, drain the oil in the diff's and inspect the gears. I'm gonna go ahead and pull the drums of the 14-bolt also and make my templates for the frame boxing plates.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:04 PM   #34
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I made the templates for cutting the plate to size and shape to box the frame. . .now I have to get the 3/16" plate and some bottle for my OFW set-up.

Here's a pic of the entire passenger side of the frame rail (the frame is upside down right now) w/the cardboard templates installed:


The rear section template:


Rear middle section template (this section still has a small gap for me to cut a template to size. . .I forgot about it while finishing up the rest of the templates. . .already have the smaller filler template made now)


Front middle section template


Front section template
[img]http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp247/atomicjoe23/FrameBoxingModifications015.jpg[\img]

and finally the front crossmember. . .this was cut at some point in the past to make room for the crank-pulley/harmonic balancer of the 350 SBC, so I'm gonna box this section in as well.


I'll be boxing this middle rear crossmember wiht just a piece 2" x 1/8" flat bar. I'm gonna use 1/8" for this because it will be way easier to bend/massage it into the same countour as the crossmember, and I will be running triangulation tubes (probably 1.50x0.120") from the middle of the rear crossmember and from the middle of this crossmember to the mid-point of the frame rails between these two crossmembers.


I went ahead and made sure that the templates would fit on both frame rails so I don't have to make two separate sets of templates. . .that amount of boxing should be plenty.

Before I do any of this welding though I'm gonna remove all of these pre-existing stiffener plates so that I can thouroughly clean the inside of the frame rails and coating the inside of the frame rails with Rust Converter and Rust Converter. . .then I will be welding the boxing plates on, this way I won't have to worry about my frame rusting from the inside out.



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Eventually
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'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
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14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:05 PM   #35
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I had to break this post up into two separate posts. . .I didn't realize you could only post 10 pic's per post. . .oh well, moving on. . .

While I was making the boxing templates I found one more area of damage, but this one is very mild. The driver's side boxing plate has a crack in it that I will be welding up while I'm doing all of this other welding.



Here's a pic of the rear leaf spring shackle hangers. . .the measurements are 50" outside-to-outside and 45.25" inside to inside

and a pic of the 14-bolt with the leafs placed on the spring perches which measure 44.25" from outside to outside

So a difference of 1/2". . .the plan is to box the existing frame rail and then I'm gonna run a piece of 3" x 3/16" flat bar between the rear crossmember and rear middle crossmember, and then again between the rear middle crossmember an the middle crossmember that I'll mount the shackle mounts to; then I will take another piece of 3/16" flat stock and make a triangulation brace between the edge of the shackle mount and the frame rail. . .should be REALLY freaking strong then.

I'm drained the oil and removed the diff covers from both of the axles and looks like they're in great shape! No cracks in the teeth that I could see and no missing teeth! YEA!!! I'm cleaning the covers now and once that's done I'll throw them back on, then I'll be able to throw the front springs on the Dana 60 and double check the measurement there and compare it to the frame shackle mounts so that I can figure out my plan for sure there.

A few set-backs, but nothing major. . .lack of money is gonna be the main thing to slow this project down!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-29-2009, 07:06 PM   #36
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OK. . .I got the front D60 cover cleaned up enough that I was happy putting it back on (still need to clean the D60 axle tubes and diff (and brakes) so that I could throw the leafs on the spring perches without dripping oil everywhere.

Here's a pic of the frame side shackle hangers. . .measurements are 32.5" outside-to-outside for the rear shackle hangers and 31.5" outside-to-outside for the front shackle hangers.

and a pic of the D60 with the leafs set on the perches. . .measurement between the leaf springs is 33.25" outside-to-outside

so a difference of 3/4" at the rear of the spring and 1.75" at the front of the spring. For these I'm just gonna weld some 3/16" flat stock to theoutside of the frame and gusset it to the sides of the frame rails. I'm gonna weld the extra material on so that the leaf springs are the same distance apart front to rear instead of narrowing in the front and I will be adding the tube so that these shackle mounts are welded up in double shear like the pic's that I posted earlier.

Now it's off to go finish cleaning up the 14-bolt. . .gotta get the nooks and crannies, the diff cover, and the backing plates. Probably gonna go ahead and pull the drums off at the same time.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:09 PM   #37
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The next big step to happen for this project is for me to install a dedicated welding outlet. . .I've got a Millermatic 211 MIG machine that runs off of either 110 or 220V, but my current outlet is only 15A which just isn't enough.

So I'm gonna go ahead and install a 220V/50A outlet and make a 220V extension cord as well.

Now I've gotta get some 3/16" plate and some gas for my OFW set-up.
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Eventually
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
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14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:52 PM   #38
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Gonna take a break today. . .it's the fair so we're gonna go enjoy some fair food and watch the bullriding, etc.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-30-2009, 02:13 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
I had to break this post up into two separate posts. . .I didn't realize you could only post 10 pic's per post. . .oh well, moving on. . .

While I was making the boxing templates I found one more area of damage, but this one is very mild. The driver's side boxing plate has a crack in it that I will be welding up while I'm doing all of this other welding.



Here's a pic of the rear leaf spring shackle hangers. . .the measurements are 50" outside-to-outside and 45.25" inside to inside

and a pic of the 14-bolt with the leafs placed on the spring perches which measure 44.25" from outside to outside

So a difference of 1/2". . .the plan is to box the existing frame rail and then I'm gonna run a piece of 3" x 3/16" flat bar between the rear crossmember and rear middle crossmember, and then again between the rear middle crossmember an the middle crossmember that I'll mount the shackle mounts to; then I will take another piece of 3/16" flat stock and make a triangulation brace between the edge of the shackle mount and the frame rail. . .should be REALLY freaking strong then.

I'm drained the oil and removed the diff covers from both of the axles and looks like they're in great shape! No cracks in the teeth that I could see and no missing teeth! YEA!!! I'm cleaning the covers now and once that's done I'll throw them back on, then I'll be able to throw the front springs on the Dana 60 and double check the measurement there and compare it to the frame shackle mounts so that I can figure out my plan for sure there.

A few set-backs, but nothing major. . .lack of money is gonna be the main thing to slow this project down!

why not just cut the perches off the axle, and weld them on where they need to be instead of hacking up the frame w/ all that welding on. and if you don't think you can cut them nice enough to re use them you can buy perches for 20 bux a pair through quadratec, or just about anywhere, and you can also make them out of box tubing.
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Old 08-30-2009, 09:23 PM   #40
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That was my intent originally. . .then I checked the measurements on the axle and for the rear axle I will only have 1.5" of clearance between the tire sidewall and the outside edge of the leaf springs. . .I don't feel that's enough clearance. I don't want to pop $450 tires because I was too lazy to set the springs up with enough clearance.

On the front axle one of the spring perches is cast into the differential, so it can't be moved. I could weld a new perch on the front axle, but that still doesn't change the fact that the OEM front shackle mounts on the frame are 1" wider for the rear front shackle hangers than they are for the front shackle hangers. . .so if I make new frame mounts then I have a leaf that is square to the frame and should provide better handling.

I'm not really hacking the frame up. . .I'm just adding boxing plates, triangulation, and adding some mounting points to it. Yeah, I'm gonna cut some of the OEM plates off, but that's so I can clean inside the frame rails to get rid of rust and coat it so it won't rust again after I box the frame, but I'm gonna be welding those plates right back in after I coat the inside of the frame rails in the exact same spots. . .

I think that modifying the frame in this case is the better way to go, both from a clearance/interference point of view and improving the handling/capability of the rig.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-31-2009, 05:20 PM   #41
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Today I spent most of the day laying out my lightening holes in the frame rail boxing templates.

I laid out the holes using a combination of 2", 2.5", & 3" holes (depending on the actual height of the frame rail and whether the frame rail was straight or tapered) with 1 1/8" spaces between the end of the boxing plate/start of the holes and between the holes themselves.

I may have to adjust the holes or delete a hole where the rear shackle hangers are going to go, but after I finish up the last of the templates I'll tape them back up to the frame and make any adjustments necessary (I should have done this first, but I didn't think about it till I was already 75% done with laying the holes out). I hope to be picking up some 3/16" plate sometime this week. . .I figured I need 16 square feet @ $11/sq. ft. . .so it'll set me back about $200 after the cost of the cut and tax, which isn't too terrible bad.
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 08-31-2009, 05:30 PM   #42
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Turns out I'm only going to have to delete 3 of the lightening holes in the very rearmost boxing plate and for the boxing plate in the very middle of the frame I will just have to stop ~3" from the front of the plate. WHEW!!! I really didn't want to have to start over laying out the holes so that the spacing would look right. . .I would have because I don't want anything to look like an afterthought on this thing, but I got lucky this time!

I'm not gonna post pic's of the templates with the holes layed out on them. . .boring pic, and it would be hard for you guys to see the layout anyway. I will post pics of the frame rail boxing plates after I cut them out without the holes in them, and then after I get the holes cut in them so that you can see exactly what I'm doing though. . .hopefully this will be done by the end of the week.

Once I get the welding done on the frame things should pick up again because I will be coating, painting, and re-assembling the rolling chassis. Once I have a rolling chassis I'm gonna paint the tranny and transfer case to match the engine. . .we've decided on Ford Dark Green (Racing Green or Hunter Green) for the the block, heads, tranny, t-case, and possibly the intake manifold; and we're gonna paint the oil pan and the timing cover Oldsmobile Gold. I'm debating on the intake manifold, whether it should be painted to match the rest of the engine or if it should be left aluminum. I know that the carb is gonna be gold so I don't want to paint the intake manifold gold I want some contrast between the two. The other area concerning engine paint that I haven't decided on is the valve covers. We're gonna use the old-school finned valve covers for that hot-rod look. Intially I was gonna leave them with the polished look, but now I'm thinking that it might look cool to paint the covers green to match the block, etc. with the tops of the fins gold or vice-versa with the valve covers gold and the tops of the fins gold.

Let me know what you think about the valve covers and the intake manifold paint choices.

Thanks!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:20 PM   #43
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What a BUMMER of a day!!! It's been raining all day and because I don't have a garage I haven't been able to work on the Willy's. I checked the weather and it's supposed to be nice again tomorrow. . .we've gona about 3 weeks without rain, so considering this is Washington's Olympic Pennisula I shouldn't complain and should consider myself lucky.

. . .but I went to the metal supply today, and of course they were out of 3/16" plate (they didn't mention that while I was on the phone with them yesterday). They're ordering more and it should be here late this week or first thing next week, so I won't be able to cut the boxing plates or weld them on until next week. That gives me time to install the 220V/50A welding outlet and to finish cleaning up the inside of the frame rails. I was able to pick up my 2" x 0.120" flat bar stock to box one of the crossmembers though and I picked up some more wire wheels and cut-off wheels so that I can finish prepping everything. My body hammer/dolly set should be here Friday so I will be welding up the cracks in the grill shell mounting tab, the front leaf spring shackle hanger boxing plate, and the crack that I found in the frame.

Yesterday I got rid of some extaneous tabs (the under bed fuel tank strap mounting tabs and what was left of the original engine crossmember. . .it was cut-out to make room for the SBC) that I won't be needing. . .I still need to remove two more tabs from the frame, but they're gonna have to wait until I flip the frame again, I HATE grinding upside down!!!

I'm gonna order some more Rust Encapsulator in aerosol form for the inside of the frame rails and the axles so that will be here next week to get the inside of the frame rails all coated before I box them in.

So, as it stands now, I'm waiting on metal and the weather!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:56 AM   #44
I HAVE A BELLYBUTTON!

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Keep fighting the good fight........I'm anxiously awaiting the outcome of this project. I think it's going to look really cool....
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:03 PM   #45
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I'm a silent watcher, I wish I had your talent in welding. All I can do is wrench. Keep up the work. I'm intrested in the outcome.
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Old 09-02-2009, 02:51 PM   #46
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Daanbc. . .you haven't even seen any pic's of my welds yet! but thanks for the compliments!

I actually just finished up (as if it ever really stops) my formal weld training. I learned OFW, stick, MIG, TIG (aluminum, mild, and stainless). . .and I have my own Millermatic 211 MIG machine. . .I'm torn on my next big welding purchase though; a plasma cutter would come in super handy, but TIG welds are so pretty!!! Choices, choices. . .the smart choice would probably be a plasma torch though.

Anyway. . .I'm gonna cut out the boxing plates today and start cleaning the inside of the frame rails and I'm gonna get started on my welding outlet as well.

Off to the hardware store for the outlet stuff!

You guys that are watching this thread post up and let me know your thoughts on the engine valve cover and intake manifold paint choices I mentioned.

Thanks!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:10 PM   #47
I HAVE A BELLYBUTTON!

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Actually, we need someone with Cain's ability on Photoshop to chop you a few photos of a SBC so we can see what the possibilities can be for that motor.......

(cough......CAIN...........cough)

Ahem.............hint, hint.


Cain? You there? We need you!!!
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:15 PM   #48
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Good call on the Photoshop. . .I'm newer to this forum, so I haven't seen any of Cain's Photoshop work. . .I wish I had it installed on my computer, but it would be just another program to learn. I already have AutoCAD 2009, SolidWorks (still have to find the time to learn this one) and BendTech Pro. . .what's one more design program!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:15 PM   #49
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It's raining again today so no real work is gonna get done. . .I had some tune-up stuff to do to the YJ yesterday so I didn't get anything done except for running around picking up supplies and tuning the YJ! Plus the Eastwood shipment with my body hammer/dolly set isn't showing up until tomorrow I guess and I just found out that Rust converter takes 48 hrs. to cure. . .eeeerrrrggghh!!! I hate delays. . .I want to get this back to a rolling chassis before September 21 so I've got my work cut out for me. I have to do a final once over cleaning on the frame, coat the inside of the frame rails with Rust Converter, wait 2 days then coat the inside of the frame rails with Rust Encapsulator (at least that only takes 6-8 hrs. to fully cure). Once the inside of the frame rails is fully cured then I can weld the boxing plates on. . .at least while the inside is curing I will have plenty of time to get the boxing plates cut out, drill the lightening holes and bevel the edges. I'll also use that time to clean and paint the tranny/transfer case and do the rear disc brake conversion on the 14 bolt. I will also be using the Rust Converter and Encapsulator on the axles followed by Eastwood's Extreme Chassis black in flat black to match the flat of the OD green frame/body color we're going with. To get to the rolling chassis I also need to clean, paint, and coat the leafs with some dry moly then rebuild the leaf spring packs using the anti-friction liners and finally run the brake lines. . .at least I won't have to run the fuel lines. Since we're gonna be using a 15 gallon beer keg for the gas tank mounted in the truck bed and I don't have an engine I can wait on running the fuel lines. Once the I've got a rolling chassis I'm gonna hit the bottom of the cab with some rubberized undercoating and while that's curing I'll get the transmission/transfer case and rear driveshaft installed.

I'm gonna install my 250V/50A breaker/receptacle for my welder today and that's about it.

I got the first WWII touch installed though. . .it's a WWII pineapple grenade shift handle. I'm gonna use pinapple grenades to house LED lights for the rear turnsignal/tail/brake light as well. We're using old bayonets for the twin stick handles of the Dana 18 transfer case. We're gonna use brass knucles for the interior door handle pulls and we're also going to use old aircraft style gauges as well.

Here's a pic of the tranny shift lever with the grenade installed, I'm probably going to replace that shift lever with one from Lokar or Gennie Shifter that has holes drilled in it and is I-beam in contour for a more retro look. Well, I can't find the camera righ tnow so I'll post a pick up later.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-03-2009, 07:43 PM   #50
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pic didnt come up
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:13 PM   #51
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Yeah. . .can't find the camera. . .I'll post a pic once I find the camera.

Got the welding outlet installed today. . .body hammer/dolly set shows up tomorrow and I'll fix the front shackle hanger for the front driver side leaf spring and the grill shell mounting plate. . .assuming it isn't raining.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:07 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
Yeah. . .can't find the camera. . .I'll post a pic once I find the camera.

oh my bad i just read the end of the first post saying you couldn't find the camera :P
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:23 PM   #53
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Spent most of today running around getting more supplies.

I ground the heads off of all the rivets holding the stuff I don't want to keep on the frame (except the front leaf spring shackle hangers. . .gotta grind them off tomorrow) and driving 90% of them. . .that sucks!

I'm gonna do some wire wheel grinding and coat the inside of the frame rails with Rust Converter tomorrow. . .then it will have to cure for 48 hrs; then a coat of Rust Encapsulator to the inside of the frame rails which cures for 8 hrs. Finally after that I will be able to weld the boxing plates on the frame, assuming the 3/16 plate is in by then.

I got the welding outlet installed yesterday and the body hammer/dolly set came in today so I can also fix the crack in the frame and the cracked grill shell mounting tab tomorrow as well.

I'm hoping to get a lot knocked out tomorrow.

One slight change of plans. . .I'm not gonna remove the boxing plates that are already on the frame. . .I started cutting some of the welds today and I think it's just gonna be more work than it's really worth to cut them off just so I can clean behind them just to weld them back on. . .if they weren't welded on so well (not necessarily pretty welds, but very strong with very deep penetration) I would go ahead and do it, but it's just gonna take too long for negligible benefit to me.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:55 PM   #54
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"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency. It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have such a man for their president."
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:50 PM   #55
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You've got to be kidding me right. . .I've posted pic's almost daily.

I haven't done anything picture worthy lately, unless you think you can pick out where I drove rivets out of the frame and removed some extraneous tabs, brackets, and left-over cross-member remnants from the previous owners SBC swap.

I plan on doing some welding tomorrow and I will post pic's up of the frame crack, grill shell mounting tab, and front leaf spring forward shackle plate crack repairs. It will be Tuesday again before I can weld after that because I will be waiting for the rust preventative coating to cure before I start boxing the frame. . .and I'm not gonna take pic's of some rust preventative on the inside of the frame rails. . .but I will post pic's again when I get started boxing the frame, after I get the axles painted, after I get the leaf springs rebuilt, and after I get the axles back under the frame. . .I'll even post pic's of the bottom of the cab and bed with the rubberized undercoating sprayed on.

It rained for two days so my momentum got slowed and I didn't have any money to go get parts while it was raining soooooo. . .you see my perdicament.

Pic's tomorrow. . .I promise!

Thanks for the interest though! I know I haven't done anything to really garner a lot of interest at this point in time other than state what my plans are, but once the interior frame rail rust preventative coating cures things will start flying again. . .should be a rolling chassis by the end of the month. . .at least that's the goal.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-05-2009, 04:20 PM   #56
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ya, i was just talking lately
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"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency. It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have such a man for their president."
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:59 PM   #57
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Well then you're gonna love this. . .

OK. . .so I lied. . .no pic's today.

I had to make a 25 ft. 50A extension cord so that I could reach all areas of the frame with the welder. . .so another trip to the hardware store for supplies and more time down to wire the extension cord (they didn't have any with the correct plugs) and it's the weekend so the GF had made some plans. . .more time lost, but it's her truck and her buck so she's the boss.

The other problem that came up when I went to weld is that there's so much moisture in the air that my welderss wire spool has developed a small layer of oxidation on it. . .enough to make the welds to be full of porosity. It's labor day weekend so of course the welding shop won't be open till Tuesday, but I'll be there as soon as they open to get some of the wire cleaning lube that you put on a piece of scotch pad and clip onto the wire with a bulldog clip before it goes throug the wire liner so that it will clean the wire and I won't have any porosity.

Man if it's not one thing it's another!!! I've only welded in a shop environment before so I never had this problem before. . .I'm gonna have to start bringing the welder inside when not in use I guess.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:18 PM   #58
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Rain, rain, go away. . .and don't come back for 2-3 week! It rained for my entire Labor Day weekend!!! Couldn't get anything done!!!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:42 PM   #59
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Even today it's cloudy and overcast. . .I'm gonna break out the hair dryer so maybe I can get some rust preventative coating on the inside of the frame rails.

I hate it when your momentum is killed!!!
__________________
'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:45 PM   #60
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OK, finally the weather cooperated again today and it's supposed to be nice all week long!

I had to wait till late this afternoon for everything to dry out enough to work on it, but M (my GF) went ahead and painted the radiator with the flat black radiator paint from Eastwood. . .looks pretty good. They suggested two cans for full coverage but M was able to get full coverage from one can. . .we'll go over it again tomorrow though.

I was able to get rid of all the loose rust from inside the one crossmember that I'm going to box and put the first coat of Rust Converter on it. Now I know why they say that it needs 48 hrs. to cure. . .it does. It's a milky colored liquid and the consistency is in between mild and condensed milk. I am very impressed with this stuff so far though. A little goes a LONG way, it coats extremely well, and I can totally see what they were talking about how it converts the oxidation to a polymeric compound. We're gonna put the second coat on what we coated today after I finish grinding the rest of the inside of the frame rails and the bottom of the frame. Then we'll flip the frame and I can start on the top. The way it works I don't have to worry about chipping it or damaging the coating by moving the frame around.

I'll post pic's of what we did today tomorrow before I start working on it again.

We've got a couple of contractors coming out to the place tomorrow and Thursday to give us an estimate on pouring concrete for the carport and behind it where I'm working right now. . .and for enclosing the carport and building a room on top of it. This isn't your normal carport though. . .it's 30 ft. wide and it's about 35 ft. deep and it's a full structure carport. . .not one of the pre-fab metal/portable deals. We're gonna get a just a shell put up (including the siding and the roofing) and we'll finish out the electrical, drywall, and finishing. . .I'm excited!

We're back in business and I'm hoping to place a bunch of parts orders before the week is over.

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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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