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Old 09-09-2009, 02:38 AM   #61
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Atlas Springs will be coming through for me on the square U-bolt styel retaining clamps! Couldn't find them locally but Atlas got back to me and they make them to order at a very reasonable cost.

Time to start prepping the spring packs also!

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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:23 AM   #62
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OK, here are some quick pic's while I'm waiting for the sun to fully come up so I can get started.

Here's the pic's of the WWII Pineapple grenade shifter handle



And here are some pic's of the frame rails/crossmembers with the 1st coat of Eastwood Rust Converter. . .I still have to put the second coat on in these areas and then wait for 48 hrs. for it to cure. I don't think it's super easy to see in the pic's but some areas are black (dry) and but most of the areas are purple because the Rust Converter hasn't fully dried yet.






You can definitely see the difference between where I've applied the Rust Converter (black areas) and the un-coated areas. . .the black areas looked like the rusty areas yesterday. . .prep is pretty minimal, it actally seems to work better if you don't fully grind the area down.

I'm gonna work on grinding the rest of the insides of the frame rails and the tabs and brackets that I'm not going to be welding on, finishing up removing the rivets that I want out, removing the current shackle hangers, and putting the second coat of Rust Converter on today.

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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
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'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:05 AM   #63
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Well I guess it's a good thing I went out and grabbed those pic's when I did. . .shortly after the sun peeked out and was quickly chased away by. . .you guessed it more RAIN!!!

I got the tarp over the frame pretty quick though!

Guess today is shot as well.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:27 AM   #64
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Nice looking build going on here.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:59 AM   #65
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Thanks Jeep41. . .not without it's setbacks. . .mostly due to weather and not the vehicle itself at this point thankfully!
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'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:00 AM   #66
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The sun did come out and cooperate finally and since I had the frame covered I didn't have to wait for it to dry out.

I got all of the rear shackle/leaf hangers removed. . .what a PITA!!! I have to say I'm kinda glad they don't make them like they used to. . .I would much rather removed a rusted bolt than a double-headed rivet that has been there for 60 years!!! I bent a cold rolled punch hammering rivets out today and that was only 4 out of 8 hangers. . .the good news is I'm going to be able to re-use the shackle/leaf hanger and I'm only going to replace the shackles themselves for some added lift to help with the clearance. I picked up a much better punch, snagged my 3" x 3/16" flat stock for the new shackle hanger mounts, and picked up a 1 5/16" socket for the D18 transfer case so I could separate the tranny and t-case from a local hardware place today so it ended up being a good day!

I also coated the frame with it's first coat of Rust Converter. . .I coated the entire frame from the rear shackles of the front leafs back, bottom, outside and inside of frame rails and the crossmembers. I'm gonna put the second coat on tomorrow.

Here's a pic of what the Eastwood Rust Converter looks like after about 10-15 minutes of the first coat. . .I'm postiing this pick because you can definitely see that a chemical reaction is occuring. The coating starts off as an opaque milk color and then proceeds to the purple you see here in about 5 minutes

This picture should show the contrast between the un-coated frame and the coated frame

and one more pic


One thing about this stuff is that you have to make sure the frame doesn't get wet after you apply the coating until it is fully cured becuase it is water-soluble. . .which is good thing, makes clean up a breeze. This stuff is great to work with!!! I would highly suggest this over POR-15. . .so much easier to work with, you just slop it on. . .surface prep is minimal and clean-up is a breeze. . .plust it is WAY cheaper!!! It does exactly what it says it is supposed to do. . .after you apply this stuff (even to a less than perfect surface prep. . .the inside of frame rails aren't always the most cooperative) you can run your finger over it and tell that it's a nice solid bond with the metal. . .converts the rust to a nice, inert coating. You can't just use this stuff and leave it like POR-15 but even if you factor in the cost of the Rust Encapsulator (essentially a primer coat) it's about a 1/4 of the cost of POR-15. I will be able to coat the entire frame front to rear, inside and out (2 coats) with one quart of this stuff for less than $30. . .same cost for the Rust Encapsulator. . .I will probably even have enough left over to do at least one of the axles. You can brush it on (I would suggest this) or spray it on. . .because it doesn't have to be applied nice and neat the brush is much easier. . .just slop it on for a nice full coat. . .it completely converts, no runs, birds-eye's etc. you are immmediatly ready for the Rust Encapsulator or any other sealing primer!

Enough plugging Eastwood's products. . .tomorrow I'm hoping to get the second coat of Rust Converter on and start welding again. . .my problem with porosity was a combination of problems. . .oxidation on the filler wire (taken care of by the lube/cleaner pads), some water vapor complications from moisture trapped between plates (the exterior of the frame was dry, but moisture trappped between the frame and the bracket vaporized and created some nasty porosity), and finally the gas line was not completely seated. . .it had worked it's way loose. . .I must have stretched it a lttle bit without realizing it. . .no harm, I'm ready to go to town tomorrow.

I don't think I will have a rolling chassis before I start school on the 21st. . .I just lost too much time with the weather and it took to long for me to find someone to supply the leaf spring pack retaining clamps (Thanks Atlas Springs!!!!). . .but I think even with working on it and school I should have the axles and leafs back under the frame by the first week of October which is fine. . .I should still be able to get the bed and cab back on before the weather turns bad (reliabley bad, not this freak occurence of bad weather in September).
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:33 AM   #67
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Yep, nothing you can do about weather. It looks like you're making good progress while you can, though. Life will be much better when you get that carport enclosed and you can get out of the weather and do your thing.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:17 PM   #68
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I wanted to post a couple of pic's of the Rust Converter after the first coat. . .you can see a few areas where it didn't complete convert the rust (the frame being outside, even though it's covered with a tarp at night, probably doesn't help with this) and it needs a second coat.

Here's what it looks like with one coat:




Plans for today are to remove the front shacle hangers, fix the split/cracked grill shell mounting bracket, and to get the second coat of the Rust Converter on the back half of the frame and the first coat on the front half of the frame.

I have the 3" x 3/16" flat stock for the new shackle hanger mounts, but I'm waiting on the 4' x 4' 3/16" plate so I can cut the boxing plates out before I can finish up the frame welding and put the whole frame in primer.
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14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:02 PM   #69
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OK. . .I made some good progress today. First off the welding issue is solved. . .turns out the torch cord had pulled out from the wire feeder just enough that I wasn't getting my full gas flow. . .so loss of gas coverage. Corrected that and I'm running the lube pads on my wire as well and I don't have the porosity problems anymore.

I'm a littel rusty on my MIG skills right now. . .I've been doing nothing but TIG for the last 6 months soooo. . .but all I have at home is a MIG and it's a new machine so I'm still figuring out how I like it set up.

Here's pic's of the fixing the issues I found on the frame

Two of welding up the crack in the frame rail


This has already been ground down flush with the rest of the frame rail.

Here are pic's of the grill shell/radiator mounting bracket welded to the front crossmember and of the cracks being welded up.


Here's the cracks after welding

These have also already been ground flush and I got the rivets removed. . .they will be replaced with bolts.

Here are the motor mounts. . .the welds were horrible and I had quite a gap to fill up. . .so I had to run two beads to fill the gap.



Like I said. . .I'm a little rusty and I have found the "sweet-spot" settings for this machine yet, so there's some spatter there that wouldn't normally be there. . .I'm gonna turn the wire speed (amperage) up a little and I think that should take care of the spatter. Plus working on a 60 year old frame. . .doesn't matter how much I wire wheel the frame it's not nice, new pristine metal like my baja buggy was.

I also got the last two spring/shackle hangers removed. . .the rear hangers for the front springs. I broke a sawzall blade doing it, but I finally got them without damaging the hangers or the frame. I checked with the metal supply and the 3/16" plate hasn't come in yet, but it supposed to be there next week. . .so I'll be boxing the frame after that shows up, and then welding in the new shackle mounts and getting a rolling chassis. Depending on when the metal shows up I may be right on time or a few days behind schedule, but I can make a few days up no problem.

Here's the list of parts that I ordered today.

Eastwood
-another quart of Rust Converter (just in case. . .I can always use it)
-two cans of Satin Extreme Chassis Black (for the leaf springs and the axles)
and I get two free cans of Rust Encapsulator.

Walck's 4WD
-two front hangers for the front leaf springs (gonna do a shackle reversal. . .and I had to cut these apart to get them off)
-new spring eye bushing for all 4 springs
-new center pins for all 4 springs
-new bumpstops for all 4 springs

Ruff Stuff Specialties
-14-bolt simple swap kit (new Grade 8 U-bolts, new spring perches & plates, new shock mounts)
-WIY (weld-it-yourself) anti-wrap kit
-baby shackles for the anti-wrap bar
-angle mount tabs for the anti-wrap bar (I'm gonna make the tranny/transfer case crossmember out of 0.25" thick square stock)
-4" shackles with 1/4" offset (replacing the front C-shackles with closed shackles. . .the 4" shackles will give me 1/2-1" of lift and will give me closed shackles)
-disc brake conversion brackets for the 14-bolt

I wasn't able to get a hold of my guy at Atlas Spring today to order the retaining clamps, but I will be getting those, a 14-bolt pinion guard, and a 1" zero-rate add-a-leaf for the rear to match the shackle lift in the front.

Monday I'll be coating the inside of the frame rails with Rust Encapsulator and will be ready to weld the boxing plates on Tuesday.

That takes care of it for the weekend. . .might go ahead and hit the axles with the Rust Converter on Sunday as well though. . .got some friends coming over tonight to help me move them.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:41 PM   #70
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I really am enjoying this thread. Can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:56 PM   #71
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Thanks JDsDream!!!

I should have some more progress to post either Sunday night or Monday evening.

I was able to get the axles moved around to the back of the house last night with the help of three of my buddies. Since the truck bed and cab are sitting in the middle of the carport right now I couldn't roll them straight back, so they had to be picked up 3 steps onto the wrap-around porch and then rolled/dragged to the back and set down 3 steps and into the backyard. Now I'll be able to coat them with the Rust Converter, Rust Encapsulator and finally the Extreme Chassis Black satin paint (I have to weld the anti-wrap bracket onto the 14-bolt before I can paint it so hopefully RSS's shipping will be fast!).
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:42 AM   #72
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The frame is looking really good after the second coat of Rust Converter. . .I will post pic's of it up after the weekend before I start coating the inside of the frame rails with the Rust Encapsulator.

Looks like I won't be working on it again until Tuesday though. . .we got an impromptu invite to go salmon fishing so we're leaving the house in about an hour and we'll be fising out in the ocean tonight and all day tomorrow. . .they're supposed to be running really thick right now and we're pretty much guaranteed to catch our limit!!!
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:29 PM   #73
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OK. . .back in town now; we ended up making it a 3 day trip so we could get two full days on the water because the salmon were hitting.

We ended up keeping 9 Silvers and throwing double that number back (right now in Washington you can only keep the hatchery fish so we had to release the wild salmon). . .the smallest was 10# and the largest was 18#.

Here's some pic's:





Gonna try to get a little work done on the Willys today; second coat of Rust Converter on the front half of the frame and start on the axles. The back half of the frame that has a full two coats of Rust Converter on it looks great though and as soon as the second coat cures on the front half I will be coating the inside of the frame rails with the Rust Encapsulator primer and be ready to box the frame. Still no 3/16" plate yet and the spring rebuild parts won't show up until next Monday so I won't have a roller this week unfortunately.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
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Eventually
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:37 PM   #74
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Well I had a fairly productive day today. . .the sun came out really early so I was able to make the most of it.

I got the 14-bolt rear axle stripped down with the hubs/drums removed, taped off the spindles, hit it with a wire brush wheel on the angle grinder to get rid of the little bits of surface rust that have grown on it since I got it really clean the first time and I got both coats of Rust Converter on it. . .it looks WAY better now!!! I won't be putting any Rust Encapsulator on it until after I get the disc brake conversion done, and have the new transmission crossmember made so that I can get the anti-wrap bar made and the bracket welded on as well.

The frame also finished curing from the 2 coats of Rust Converter so I started out with just the intention of coating the inside of the frame rails with the Rust Encapsulator, but once I got started I decided to go ahead and do everything that I could get to. . .this way when I flip it back over after boxing the frame the bottom will already be coated and I won't have to flip it again until I paint it.

Still waiting on the 3/16" plate to show up and all the stuff I ordered to make it to my door.

No time for pic's tonight I'm getting ready to go trap shooting. . .gotta brush up. . .turkey season is right around the corner, but I'll post pic's tomorrow night.

Tomorrow I should be getting the wheel studs out of the drums/hubs so that they can be separated in preparation for the disc brake conversion and I'm also gonna get the front axle stripped and get it coated in the Rust Converter so that it can start curing and then get a coat of the Rust Encapsulator.
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4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:18 PM   #75
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As promised here are the pic's from yesterdays work:

The frame with one coat of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator (satin black) on it. . .this stuff is basically a primer so we'll be scuffing it with a 320 scotch brite pad and then putting the final spray coat over it. . .I brushed this stuff on pretty thick and it smoothed out on it's own. There are only like 2 or 3 runs that I'll hit with a razor blade before we scuff the primer for final painting.





Here's the 14-bolt w/the drums/hubs stripped and with the 2 full coats of Eastwood Rust Converter on it. . .this axle looks great now!



Another box showed up on the doorstep today but it was just the Extreme Chassis Black (satin again) from Eastwood and another quart of the Rust Converter for misc. stuff that comes up. . .still waiting for the stuff from Walck's 4WD and Ruff Stuff Specialties.

Today I stripped the front axle as bare as I could and still leave the wheels on. . .I've run out of objects to hold the axles up off the ground without any wheels on them!!! and went over it quickly with the wire wheel and then sprayed two coats of the Rust Converter on it. . so it's curing now. I'm thinking the front axle may need another coat. . .it just didn't seem to work as well on the front as it did the rear, but I think that's because there was NO rust at left on it. I don't want to put any of the Rust Encapsulator on it yet though I want to wait until I get it fully stripped and then paint it all in one shot.

Don't expect any progress over the weekend because I don't have any parts right now. . .might disassemble the leafs and start cleaning them so that they are ready when the rebuild stuff shows up but that's about it. . .planning on doing some river fishing and some trap shooting tomorrow though.
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'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:05 PM   #76
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Well I guess it's worth mentioning, but while I was stripping the front axle down and cleaning it to prep it for the Rust Converter I found the axle stamping and it's not a Dana60. . .not a big deal since I only paid $250 for a 14-bolt, SM425, NP205 and a front axle.

I found this stamping "44 8F". . .which I believe means Dana 44 full-floating axle. . .so I still have a full floater (it's definitely a full floater. . .the axles bolt to the hubs just like the 14-bolt rear) and I was also able to clean the gear ratio tag off enough to finally read it. . .front axle ratio is 4.09:1. So I'm assuming that since these axles came off the same truck that the 14-bolt rear is a 4.11:1 ratio. . .right on the carrier break so I can't go bigger than 4.11, I don't have a gear tag for the rear axle so I can only assume this at this point in time.

Just thought I would keep everyone up to speed.

Oh and the Rust Converter is finally starting to work on the front axle. . .turning a nice flat black. The lack of any surface rust on the axle made it take quite a bit longer than the rear.
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:08 PM   #77
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My new issue of Four Wheeler just came in the mail today. . .and I know what my next project is after I finish the Willys and my '94 YJ that's next in line after it. . .

. . .a 70's era Dodge Power Wagon, I love the Tough Truck Power Wagon in this issue. . .she can have her Willys and I'll have the Dodge and we'll both have a GINORMOUS beefy truck. . .I doubt I find the good deals for it that I've found for the Willys so far. . .you can only get lucky so many times. . .but can someone say 440!!!
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:45 PM   #78
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Well school started again yesterday and I'm taking 24 credits so my progress is going to slow down a bit. . .not that waiting on parts for the last week and 3/16" plate for the last two weeks hasn't already slowed me down!!!

But on the upside I took my hub/drum assemblies into school today and I got the wheel studs pressed out and separated the hubs and the drums. Now I just need to get some rotors and I'll take the hubs/rotors back into school and I'll press the studs back in, between now and then I'll clean the hubs up and throw some paint on them.

I don't know why I haven't done it already but at some point this week I'll be boxing in the rear crossmember since I do already have the flat stock to do that. . .get that done and paint it and once the plate shows up I'll be ready to tack it into place and get the frame boxed.

I still haven't ordered the leaf spring retainer shackles yet because I ran out of cash, but they only take a day to make to order and Atlas sends them one day mail so I'm not too concerned abou that since I just got the center pins and bushings in yesterday and my stuff from Ruff Stuff hasn't quite made it to my doorstep yet.

I'll post some more pic's when there's some photographic progress to show.
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Old 09-25-2009, 05:23 PM   #79
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Just picked up a replacement 350SBC out of an 80's 3/4-ton Chevy K-Blazer. . .YEA!!! Now I have a PS pump and bracket to go with the power steering box and can have PS steering too!

Now if that stupid plate would just show up. . .still waiting on the Ruff Stuff Specialties stuff to show up as well, but I should be getting the new rotors this weekend as well.

Slowly, but surely.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:21 PM   #80
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Happiness is a Barrett M82A1 .50 caliber and a target at least a click out........

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Old 10-02-2009, 03:46 PM   #81
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Sorry about being gone for so long, but 24 credits is a lot of classes for one quarter!

I picked up a sheet of 3/16" plate on Wednesday evening and I cut most of the boxing plates at last night.

I brought the plate with me to school today and I finished up what I had left with the shops plasma cutter (I'm out of practice and the cuts were kinda rough) and I'll be cleaning up all the edges this evening and Sunday.

I don't know if I'm still gonna put the lightening holes in or not. . .seems like it might take a REALLY long time for me to do it with a hole saw!!!

I like the look of them, but 3/16" plate is too thick to use a punch and die and I won't be able to use a plasma to do it. . .it would look like crap unless I had it set-up to do it with a CNC machine and I don't.

Bottom line I really need to get this thing moving along and the holes are just gonna add a bunch of extra time. I think I'm gonna go ahead and just weld the plate on as is and I might drill the holes at a later point in time.

I'll post pic's up of the plate on the frame on Sunday.

I should be picking up some square tube on Tuesday to make the new tranny crossmember so that I can wheel the axles under the frame and get the anti-wrap bar set-up.

My first order from Ruff Stuff Specialties came in as well. . .anti-wrap bar kit, 14-bolt simple swap kit (U-bolts, spring plates, spring perches, and shock mounts) and the other stuff should be here next week. Early Jeep spring perches, Dana 44 HD U-bolts and spring plates.

Rolling right along.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:25 PM   #82
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OK, we made some more progress but unfortunately the camera took a swim on the last salmon fishing trip (took a swim in someone's pocket that waded out into the middle of the river!!!) so I won't be able to post update pictures for a little while, but I will get them taken and posted ASAP. . I promise.

Here's what's been done:
-all of the boxing plates are cut out and they have been tacked and the bottom seam fully welded. . .I will weld the top of the plate to the top of the frame once I flip the frame back over the correct direction.

-the new spring/shackle perches have been cutout and tacked to the frame; I did a front shackle reversal in the process.

doesn't sound like much but with as many classes as I have and being the project manager for the school's Baja buggy project I don't have a lot of time to work on the Willy's, but I'm pretty sure I will have a rolling chassis before the weather turns which means that I might have a driveable Willy's before the first snow hits the ground!

Here's what I'm gonna do the rest of this week:
-cut out the spring/shackle perch support gussets (these are triangular in shape and support the new perches the full width of the perch and the full height of the frame. . .I am putting support gussets on the front and rear of each perch and they will have a 1" lightening hole in them (you'll see what I mean when I get some pic's up)

-tack the above perch gussets into place, once the gussets are tacked into place I will weld the bottom of the gussets

-flip the frame back over right side up, once the frame is flipped I will finish weld the tops of the boxing plates, support gussets and the tops of the perches.

-pick up some 1.5" - 2.0" x 0.120" square tube to use as the transfer case/transmission crossmember; this will also be where the front of the anti-wrap bar will mount to and get the mock-up block completely stripped (the old engine block with the crack in it). I'm gonna use this to mock the drivetrain into place so that I can get the driveshaft angles correct, fab the t-case/tranny crossmember in the correct location and get the anti-wrap bar fabbed and mounted to the rear axle.

-finally get the spring rebuild stuff ordered from Atlas spring (all the other stuff is in from Walcks and Ruff Stuff Specialties) thankfully this stuff is supposed to get to me two days after I order it.

I think that's about all I can realistically expect to get done this week, but by the end of next week I'm hoping that springs will be rebuilt and I will have the axles mocked under the frame so that I can fab the t-case/tranny crossmember and anti-wrap bar. I'm expecting/hoping to have a rolling frame that is completely painted with fully painted springs and axles under them.

Once we have a rolling frame we'll be placing the bed back on the frame and I will start working on the front crossover steering, painting the engine/tranny/t-case and getting the driveline in place.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:29 AM   #83
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How much of a lift are you planning on using to fit those 40's?
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Americans sleep safely in their beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do them harm...

Happiness is a Barrett M82A1 .50 caliber and a target at least a click out........

I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes, if you f**k with me, I'll kill you all.....
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:09 AM   #84
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The original axles were spring under and the 14-bolt/D44 combo are spring over. . .plus a 1" shackle lift, that should be at least 4-5".

I will measure the old axles and spring pads tomorrow (don't home from class until 8 PM tonight) and post a more exact number.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:18 AM   #85
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Updates:

I got all the stuff I mentioned done. . .the frame boxing plates are fully welded (still need to drill my fancy lightening holes in them), the spring/shackle hanger perch gussets are cut and mounted, the spring/shackle hanger perches and gussets are fully welded (I test fit the springs first just to make sure everything would fit before I fully welded that stuff up. . .like a glove!), and I ended up picking up 4 ft. of 1.5" x 2.5" x 0.120" rectangular tubing and some 1.25 x 0.120" angle iron for the transmission/sfr case crossmember and mounting brackets.

What's left to do for the weekend:
-pick up the 14-bolt axle seals and hub flanges (today)
-get harmonic balancer puller (today) so that I can remove the crank from the mock-up block (today)
-drill 6 more holes in the frame to bolt the spring/shackle hangers to the new spring/shackle hanger perches.
-reinstall the springs (prior to rebuild) and get the front & rear axles under the frame and attached to the springs for driveline mock-up
-set the mock-up block back in the frame, get the tranny and transfer case attached back to the mock-up block so that I can get the crossmember and mounts cut & tacked into place
-once I get the tranny/xfr case crossmember tacked into place I will start on the anti-wrap bar and once that's done blow everything back apart for final paint

We're going razor clamming next weekend so I probably won't have a painted rolling chassis this coming weekend but definitely by the next weekend.

Things are starting to move right along now!!!

We got a loaner camera to borrow while ours is getting fixed so I hope to post some pic's up of the weeks/weekends work tonight.

BTW. . .all the welds that you will see (except for the gussets) were done by my GF. I taught her how to use the MIG machine and she picked it right up. Her welds are structurally sound, no porosity (except one spot where the wind kicked up. . .not her fault), and she's starting to get the "stack of dimes" technique down as well. She's doing better after 3 lessons than some of the people who went through an entire welding school with me!!! Very proud of her.

I'll get those pic's up tonight.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:05 AM   #86
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Updates from today:

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
What's left to do for the weekend:
-pick up the 14-bolt axle seals and hub flanges (today).
Done. . .I pick up the axle gaskets tomorrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
-get harmonic balancer puller (today) so that I can remove the crank from the mock-up block (today).
Borrowed a engine hoist so didn't have to get this now. . .will need one down the road I'm sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
-drill 6 more holes in the frame to bolt the spring/shackle hangers to the new spring/shackle hanger perches..
Done

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
-reinstall the springs (prior to rebuild).
Done

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
- get the front & rear axles under the frame and attached to the springs for driveline mock-up.
Front axle is centered under the frame and the springs are sitting on the stock axle spring perches. . .I have to get a different set of U-bolts for the passenger side spring perch because it's the cast in version and the U-bolts I got aren't wide enough. I'm gonna pick up some 2 1/2" x 1/4" flat stock tomorrow and make some 8" long anti-wrap plates for the front spring perches since I'm using the stock stock perches which don't have any sort of anti-wrap built into them.

I didn't get the rear axle under the frame because I spent a lot of time getting the front axle centered so hopefully I will be able to get that done tomorrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
-set the mock-up block back in the frame, get the tranny and transfer case attached back to the mock-up block so that I can get the crossmember and mounts cut & tacked into place
-once I get the tranny/xfr case crossmember tacked into place I will start on the anti-wrap bar and once that's done blow everything back apart for final paint.
I'll do this as soon as I get the rear axle into place under the frame.

I can tell you one thing this thing is gonna be pretty tall!!! I used the C-shackles today because I haven't rebuilt the leafs yet and I didn't want them flopping around and throwing my mock-up off the new shackles are gonna provide an extra 1" of lift in the front (should level the truck completely out) and the engine mounts are about even with my waist. . .I'm 6'1". I'll get the pic's up once I have both axles under the truck so it's not all tilted in the pic's.
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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:51 AM   #87
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Sounds like it's coming together for you. It'll be nice to get into a rolling chassis.......all your hard work will start looking more complete as it comes together in big pieces. Looking forward to seeing some pics once you get it into roller form.
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Americans sleep safely in their beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do them harm...

Happiness is a Barrett M82A1 .50 caliber and a target at least a click out........

I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes, if you f**k with me, I'll kill you all.....
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Old 10-16-2009, 03:11 AM   #88
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Might want to consider boxing the frame especially at the motor mounts, and tranmission mount. couple of place in the rear also. You need to post pics on someplace like photobucket, then link to them. Is your frame tied together from mount to mount with a crossmember or something similar to the CJ's?
It is needed when offroading these frames.
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:24 AM   #89
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not really, I just wanted to say I am looking forward to seeing the completion of this project... more pic's please
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:17 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxjlone View Post
Might want to consider boxing the frame especially at the motor mounts, and tranmission mount. couple of place in the rear also.
That's already done. . .if I had posted pic's of the boxing that I have done already you would be able to see that. . .don't worry I will get the pic's posted after this weekend (going Razor clamming or else I would do it tonight)

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxjlone View Post
You need to post pics on someplace like photobucket, then link to them.
That's what I'm doing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxjlone View Post
Is your frame tied together from mount to mount with a crossmember or something similar to the CJ's?
It is needed when offroading these frames.
Full crossmember made out of 1.5" x 2.5" rectangular tubing., then I will have a removeable skidplate mounted off of that and the bottom of the frame.

I just got the 14-boilt under the frame and at the proper height last night. . .man this thing is gonna be TALL!!! the bed doesn't start till my chest!!!

I also got the mock-up block mounted and then the tranny and transfer case mounted to the block. . .I need to adjust the angle of the rear output of the transfer case so that it points directly at the rear pinion, but I need to figure out what I'm gonna do about the front driveshaft first. I know that there are other people running a TH350 tranny so there has to be a solution to the issue that I'm having.

The front tranfer case output is gonna run the front driveshaft transfer case side U-joint directly into the tranny oil pan. . .I'll take a pic when I get back for the weekend trip, but does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

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'94 Jeep YJ Wrangler
4.0L I-6/AX-15 5-spd./NP231
2" 4WD Hardware Body Lift

Eventually
D44 TTB 4WD IFS Conversion w/coilovers & bypasses
4-link rear w/coilovers & bypasses

'49 Jeep Willy's Pick-up Truck
350SBC/TH350/NP205
14-bolt rear/D60 front 2/40" BFG MTR's on H2 8-lugs
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