Picked up the correct size hardware to mount the steering box (7/16" x 14 TPI x 4") and I machined some 5/8" spacers to space the steering box off the frame just enough so that the pitman arm clears the frame at full swing. . .
. . .also grabbed some 1/4" angle stock to use for the uppermost mounting location/gusset.
Just need to order the U-joint stuff, threaded tubing adapters (no time to make them right now so it will be faster. . .and cheaper. . .to order them), and pick-up some tubing for the new drag link.
Quick update. . .I now have an early-style Toyota PS box and pitman arm that will allow me to mount the steering box to the outside of the frame and the pitman arm will line right up with the steering arm on the axle. . .
. . .I removed the TRE from the pitman arm and machined a press-fit (.0015" interference fit) straight wall sleeve for the pitman arm to allow the use of a through bolt and rod end for the drag link and a slip-fit taper wall sleeve for the steering arm. . .
. . .one step closer to this thing moving under its own power!
The blind hole spotters I ordered showed up in the mail today so I should be getting the steering box mounts sorted out shortly.
I will try to take pic's of the pitman arm (should have taken a picture of the sleeve before I pressed it in so you could see a before and after) and of the steering arm/sleeve and post them up later tonight.
Weather is finally starting to turn nice here again. . .hoping to have this thing running by June.
I finally got the placement of the PS box figured out. . .this is basically where it's gonna be. It will sit straight up and down (it's cocked forward a little bit here because there is only one bolt holding it up) and it will be moved down about 1/4" as well, but this lines the pitman arm and steering arm up.
Sorry the pictures are kinda bad, but it was dark outside by the time I got finished up today.
I will be drilling 3/4" holes in the frame for the forward bolt and the lower rear bolt, those holes will have 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID machined steel sleeves welded into them. The upper rear mount will have the same sleeve, but the sleeve will be welded to the top of the frame rail and there will be 1/4" thick brackets on the inside and outside of the frame rail that will tie the upper rear and lower rear bolt sleeves together. . .I think that should be stout enough.
Another bonus is that the steering box and drag link will be much more protected in this location than they were with the Saginaw box I was gonna use before.
I will try to post up a SolidWorks illustration of everything in place later so that my plan will make more sense.
Spent the entire weekend working on the Willy's and made some good progress, but had to take a few steps backward to ultimately move forward.
First the steps backwards:
-ripped the entire wiring system out of the truck
-figured out the Toyota steering box wasn't going to work once I had it in place
-fabricated mounting plate for the GM Saginaw steering box and got the steering box mocked up. . .made the mounts out of 1/4" angle stock to sandwich the frame rail with some 3/16" gussets (the material I had on hand). I got the holes accurately drilled and I just have to turn some sleeves and spacers for the hardware to get this part completely finished.
-tie rod and drag link made and mounted, I'm just waiting for a few bits of rod end accessories to show up in the mail and these are completely finished.
-fabricated my own mounts for the GM power steering box so that the pulley would mount higher on the engine and clear the front frame cross-member. . .I've got to turn a RH/LH threaded turnbuckle for adjusting the belt tension for the PS pump.
I found a few problems in the process as well:
-fuel filter fittings leaking, pulled the filter, cleaned it, and re-installed it with new thread sealant
-oil pan gasket leaking; I've got a new gasket set and pulled the pan and cleaned the mounting surfaces very thoroughly
-rear axle seals (GM 14-bolt leaking); I need to buy new seals for these I guess
-a few leaking coolant connection, mainly the heater bypass hose fitting and temperature sensor fitting. . .I got those fixed.
Getting the steering box mount and PS pump mounts figured out was a HUGE step forward and what has been giving me the most trouble in this build so it's a huge relief to know that I've finally got it figured out.
Sorry I didn't have time to take pictures. . .I was busy working.
It was a fun project. . . right now I'm ready to be finished (at least temporarily) with it so that I can enjoy it. . .it's kinda dragging right now. I wanna be able to drive it for a while and then go back and fix all the small things that I would do differently if I knew then what I know now.
I'm sure I will look back on it as a fun project overall once it's finished.
Today I test fit all the sleeves, bushings, and spacers I made and I've got a few modifications to make, but I went ahead and took some pictures for you guys. . .
Here's the turnbuckle. . .I have to shorten it a little before it will fit correctly, about a quarter inch
Here are some shots of the GM Saginaw box mocked into position with the new and much cleaner mounting plate. . .this is SOOOOO much better then the ugly mount I had on there before. . .I need to put a flat on the top mounting sleeve because it sits so close to the top of the frame; I was trying to keep approach angle and ground clearance in mind to protect the steering system as much as possible with this style of set-up
Here's a pic of the tie rod and drag link mounted to the steering knuckles and pitman arm. . .I think a drop pitman arm would help me a little here, future upgrade probably.
Here are some shots of the vehicle as it sits now. . .
I welcome your input. . .this is my first project of this scale, so there is definitely room for improvement. . .some things I know I'm gonna go back and fix later, but I still want to hear about it if I'm making a mistake.
Weather turned crappy so I haven't been able to weld the steering box bracket in place on the frame yet, but I did get all the modifications made to all the little sleeves and bushings I made. The PS pump and steering column are now happy campers; I get the correct belt for the PS pump and a replacement belt for the water pump/alternator. I need to trim a little rubber off of the driver's side engine mount so that the steering shaft doesn't rub on it and I also realized that I had mounted the electric fan on the wrong side of the radiator.
I mounted the fan on the back of the radiator as a puller and it interfered with the alternator. . .I couldn't figure out why since the previous owner had it on there without interference; so I went back and looked at some of the old pictures and realized he had it mounted in front of the radiator as a pusher. So I'm gonna mount it that way until I get a different aluminum radiator that fits the grill area better.
The next big thing on the list after welding the steering box mount to the frame will be to reinstall the wiring harness.
Finally got around to uploading the photos I took. . .here ya go
Here are some of the power steering box mount welded up and the box installed. . .ignore the rust, it rained right after I finished welding the mount up. I've since wire brushed the rust off; I'll be re-painting all the places that are rusty after I've got this thing running and am sure that I'm done removing paint for welding.
Here are several of the interior. . .I installed the brake pedal (a temporary one until I can fab one with a little more character. . .I'm open to ideas by the way) and the transmission and transfer case shifters after machining some adapters
Here are some of the spacers I turned to get the steering column off the bottom of the dash. . .there's a 1/4" steel plate to reinforce the stock dash that you can't really see in the pictures; I made sure I made the reinforcing plate small enough to not be seen unless you knew it was there
New V-belts and the PS pump adjusting sleeve installed (this one still needs a little more work to get the pulleys perfectly aligned and make the mount for the PS pump slightly more rigid).
Gonna be out of town this weekend, but I should have some more progress before next weekend.
Still chugging away at this thing. . .I replaced the front brake hardline with a bent one that follows the contour of the front axle to keep it out of the way and better protect it from damage; I still need to install some tabs to hold it in place though. I cut an access hole in the driver's side floor panel so that I can check/fill the brake master cylinder and I'm working on putting an aluminum access hatch with a dzu's fastener to cover the hole, but I need a longer dzus bolt to get it to actually latch in place.
I think wiring is really the last big step and I've kinda been blowing it off since I'm not too excited about tackling it. . .I've decided to replace the current two fan set-up with a single fan/shroud combo from Jegs because the two-fan set-up doesn't really fit the radiator all that well.
After I get this stuff fixed/done I will post up pic's and let you know how getting the thing started goes. . .hopefully that will be before the end of the month.
Started plugging away at the wiring yesterday (no pun intended). . .I got all the sub-sections of the harness separated and zip-tied into bundles and ready to go into the truck.
Tonight I'm working on figuring out where all I want Weatherpack quick disconnects between components and the main harness in addition to the factory style connectors for the headlights, turnsignals, alternator, and dimmer switch that already have. Right now I'm thinking additional weatherpack style QD's at the ignition switch, headlight switch, and tail lights/plate lights.
I'm planning to use cannon plug style bulkhead connectors where the front, engine, and rear subharness go through the firewall instead of threading wires through a hole with grommet. I'm also going to use cannon style QD's for the gauge panel so I can very easily disconnect all the wiring for the gauge panel and remove the entire gauge panel as a unit very easily. . .as a bonus this will make wiring the dash much easier since I can do it on the bench instead of in the vehicle.
Last thing I plan on doing with the dash panel is to use terminal blocks for the instrument light power, gauge power, and the ground. . .so three terminal blocks.
Tonight I ordered a new headlight switch, indicator lights for the dash (blue for high beams, green for turnsignals/hazards, and red for warning lights. . .oil pressure, water temperature, charging system, and an extra for the e-brake when I get around to adding one). I also ordered a hex QD for the steering wheel so I can remove the entire column. . .right now the steering wheel adapter is welded directly to the steering shaft and the steering shaft can't be removed from the vehicle; using the QD will make dash work now and service later much easier.
I also ordered a glove box latch and a dash/gauge panel from Walck's. What I haven't ordered yet are the new fan/shroud assembly or the steering box rebuild kit. . .I don't have an unlimited budget and that fact has really been the biggest limiting factor in this build (that and it being my first time at anything remotely this big in scope!!!). The stuff I'm not going to worry about any time soon are windshield wipers, e-brake, neutral start switch. . .mainly because I haven't figured out how to incorporate those things into a 1949 Jeep with MUCH newer GM running gear. I know these are all safety related items and I plan to address them as quickly as possible, but this isn't a daily driver or anything like that so they aren't critical. . .yet.
Everything right now is really more temporary than permanent. . .kinda a get it running so we can enjoy it for a while and then tear back into this thing and fix everything that I could have done better if I had none better and work on cosmetic issues as well. Sorry about the lack of pictures, but the work I'm doing right now doesn't really translate into pictures. Next pictures will be once I have the new radiator fan/shroud so that I can get the grill mounted properly.
I follow desert racing pretty religiously and seeing all the high end pre-runners and race trucks in Dirt Sports magazines makes me cringe at the thought of a crappy wiring job. . .electrical is by far my least favorite part (probably because I'm not as comfortable with it as mechanical stuff) but I figure if I spend some time and effort (and cash) on it now it will save me time and headaches in the future.
By no stretch of the imagination will my wiring job look anywhere nearly as good as the stuff in Dirt Sports though.
Update about 2 hrs. later. . .Spent the night working on Weatherpack connections. . .unfortunately I only got the headlight switch finished. I started to make up a Weatherpack for the headlight switch, got one terminal on and then I realized that I needed to wait until I had my headlight switch before I terminate the wires because all the wire terminals need to be even when they go into the terminal housing if I want the wiring to like nice and neat and not have bumps in the wiring harness from unevenly trimmed wires. . .
. . .oh well, it's not too bad considering this is my first time messing with these things and the fact that I don't really have the "right" tools to work with this style of terminal, but I can't afford to pay $200 for a terminal crimper!!! I can definitely see where it would make things much easier and faster, but I will just have to be patient and careful while making do with what I have. Hopefully the rest of my stuff will show up soon so that I can make some more forward progress. . .I'll work on some little things between now and then though. I can put Weatherpack connectors on the tail lights, plate lights for sure. . .I'll probably wait on the radiator fan since I plan on replacing the dual fans (which are really too big for the amount of space I have to work with in the front grille) with a large single fan/shroud combo. I will definitely be waiting on the headlight switch and the gauge panel. . .I will have to get some more gauges as well since I only have water temperature (mechanical), oil pressure (mechanical), voltmeter, and a column mounted tach at the moment. . .I still need a speedo and a fuel level gauge. I'm gonna get a cannon plug with enough extra pin locations to accomodate the electric gauges I don't have yet but plan on getting as well as some extra dash accessories in case of future upgrades.
I'm now looking into a 47 Willys pick up. Waiting for the owner to get back to me. Keep the pics up on your build..
I know a lot of things, most of them are only correct in my own head...
Better to be judged by twelve then carried by six. I'm sure this is going to get me in trouble down the line
2000 sport, 5speed, 1-1/4 body lift, 3" zone, metal cloak front fenders, metal cloak control arms, 4.88, 35" cooper stt.