Gus' 99 TJ build - Sgt. Gusty - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:42 PM   #31
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Started to prep for the Herculiner, or whatever I decide to use. Got the seats and console out...broke off a bolt on the passenger seat side. Not sure what to do about that yet. Ya think 3 bolts will be safe? It was a rear bolt...not the torx bolt. Anyway, started sanding and got tired of doing that pretty quick so I painted on the stars.





When you mask it off like this and paint on two coats the edges are so sharp and raised it looks more like a sticker than paint.


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Old 04-14-2012, 11:39 AM   #32
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Herculiner done.


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Old 04-14-2012, 12:20 PM   #33
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How well did the Krylon adhere to the Herc-U-Liner?

I really like the OD/BLK in the tub.


This rig has come a long ways in a very short time. TT next?
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:10 PM   #34
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How well did the Krylon adhere to the Herc-U-Liner?

I really like the OD/BLK in the tub.


This rig has come a long ways in a very short time. TT next?
Actually I didn't wait long enough for the Herc to dry before I applied the OD and it kind of "alligatored" in spots. After it dried I re-applied it and it seems ok. Long term we shall see.

Next up is the BL/MML then save up for the belly armor and rocker guards. Still debating on Aluminum v. Steel on that...but I have time since it will take a while to get the $$ saved.

This months JP magazine got me thinking about that. They aren't real big on aluminum if you do rocks, which I do. Also they said in the same issue that it isn't worth upgrading a D35, which I had planned to do also with a Superior Super kit. I guess I have some more research to do.
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:16 PM   #35
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That's funny. I have the Super 35 and aluminum UCF ultra high clearance skid.
Both have served me well. Both were also recommended by Jerry Bransford.
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:25 PM   #36
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That's funny. I have the Super 35 and aluminum UCF ultra high clearance skid.
Both have served me well. Both were also recommended by Jerry Bransford.
Yep...I remember that you had those. I have read numerous posts by Jerry about both aluminum and the super 35 which was why I decided to go with them and probably still will. I was a little surprised that JP was negative about aluminum but not so much about the 35 since they have always bashed that axle and preached that it isn't worth sinking money into.

One thing is certain when it comes to opinions...especially about Jeeps...there will always be a lot of disagreement. Keeps things interesting!
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:42 PM   #37
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One thing is certain when it comes to opinions...especially about Jeeps...there will always be a lot of disagreement. Keeps things interesting!
I am headed to Moab the first week in June. They both held up last year I guess I'll see if they last two trips.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:01 PM   #38
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Wow! I remember the day you went to pick that up , mentioning it in the "last person to post in this thread wins " thread . Looks great! I love the paint job, and everything about the jeep!

It's come a long way

Subbed for sure!
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:46 PM   #39
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I've had two wranglerforum.com stickers for a while now. Didn't feel like putting them on so I cut them up and made my own a little more appropriate for my rig.

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Old 05-03-2012, 11:17 AM   #40
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Got the new top on. Smittybilt replacement top. Under $270. Can't beat it for the price....fits perfect, tinted windows and a ton cheaper than Bestop. Went on real easy. 1 banana job. One thing if anyone is considering a replacement top... the original screws into the header are some bastard Chrysler screws that you will never match the threads for. Use #8 self tapping screws if you have to replace the old ones due to rust or stripping like I did. Put the whole thing on, then took out the rear and side windows for the summer.

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Old 05-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #41
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looks amazing great job keep up the sweet builds
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:15 PM   #42
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I have just been notified that it is against forum policy for me to post a link to another forum. So if you are at all interested in seeing the continuation of my build I suggest you save the NEO site in your favorites and check on it once in a while. I will not be posting in this thread anymore. Thanks to everyone for linking to the build site. It has gotten several thousand hits and I appreciate every one of them. I'm sure it would not have gotten as many without the link, but rules are rules I guess.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:20 PM   #43
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If anyone wants the link just PM me as I had to also delete my sig that contained it.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:26 PM   #44
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lookin good gus. and you got an incoming pm
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:42 PM   #45
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OK...anyone who wants to keep up with the build I think I found a way to do it without breaking forum rules. Click on this wrangler forum link and it will take you to our site. Once you are there just go to Builds and Fabrication and my thread is usually near the top.

Other Jeep Forums - Wrangler Forum Links
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:04 PM   #46
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Quick side shot post BL/MML. so now my "lift" is done. Stock LJ springs with a 3/4" spacer in front and a 1.25" JKS BL with 33x10.50 KM2s. Looks like enough clearance to me but I will disco and run it up a ramp asap to verify.

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Old 05-11-2012, 02:13 PM   #47
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It looks great Gus
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:19 PM   #48
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Looking good Gus.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:23 PM   #49
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Thanks guys. Going to order Rokmen Mercenary rocker guards next week then start saving for the aluminum UCF belly armor.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:32 PM   #50
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With the help of my mechanic friend Jake and his dad's garage, The BL went on without too much trouble until we got to the last bolt, the one in back on the passenger side under the bumper. It snapped off, then when we tried to drill it out the whole mount broke. After a little thought we decided to cut an access hole in the back of the cross member. Cut three sides and folded it back, put a nut and washer on the new BL bolt and pushed it closed. We were going to weld it shut but there was a problem with his welder so I just shot some black paint on it and called it good enough. I might rivet a piece of 20 gauge steel over it someday..or not. The MML was a PITA. Up and down with the jack to get the holes lined up but we got it. 3 1/2 hours total.



Shifters both seem to be working ok too. Goes into 2nd 4th and reverse just fine. Skipped the t-case drop down bracket since I will be installing the Novak kit anyway.

BTW - I know I said I wasn't going to post in this anymore, but I was a little ticked about getting my link to the NEO site deleted. Oh well, rules are rules I guess. I'm over it.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:57 PM   #51
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its looking good gus. im lookin forward to when you get new control arms, would be interesting to see how much flex you could get out of stock springs.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:27 PM   #52
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its looking good gus. im lookin forward to when you get new control arms, would be interesting to see how much flex you could get out of stock springs.
I know...but right now I'm interested to see how much i get out of it with the stock CAs. The Rokmen CAs are a ways down the list...about 6K away!
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:30 PM   #53
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Plus I'm looking at it thinking how sweet it would look with a 2.5" OME lift and 35s! It's a sickness.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:01 PM   #54
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Got a couple small things done before the club M&G Saturday. Installed the other ammo can, (this one doesn't smell like gun cleaner inside so I can store my cool weather sweatshirt in it), bolted on a brace to help support the spare since the BL raised it off the bumper, and stenciled the TP 35 above the rear wheel wells.



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Old 05-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #55
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Took the sway bar links off and drove it over to 4WP and ran it up the ramp. It's no flex queen as you can see, but I was pretty happy that it didn't rub anywhere. Bump stops hit in front and were about 1/4" short of hitting in the rear when my driver rear wheel started spinning and I stopped halfway up. Once again...ahem...33s and NO LIFT except a 1.25" BL!








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Old 05-18-2012, 12:03 PM   #56
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Also installed the CB. having issues at the moment getting the SWR below 2.


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Old 05-19-2012, 02:13 PM   #57
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Also installed the CB. having issues at the moment getting the SWR below 2.
I had trouble with my SWR, too, when I tried mounting the antenna on the tailgate. I couldn't get it below 2. Then, I got the mount that goes behind the driver's side taillight and all was good.
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:42 PM   #58
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I had trouble with my SWR, too, when I tried mounting the antenna on the tailgate. I couldn't get it below 2. Then, I got the mount that goes behind the driver's side taillight and all was good.
I mounted it to the top of my tire carrier. At first I thought it was a bad ground but it seems okay. I finally got the SWR down to under 2 across the bands though. Two things...I had the excess coax coiled too small and ended up having to route the extra under the dash and back to the cb. Second problem was that the stupid Firestick was the kind that you have to trim the wires. So 1/4" trim at a time and re-check each time. Finally after trimming over 3" of wire I got it good enough. Next time, if there is one, I get a Wilson flex like I had before. This 4' Firestick has almost no flex in it at all. If I forget to remove it before I pull in the garage, or catch it on a tree branch, it will probably be toast.
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:42 PM   #59
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looks pretty good gus.
i still cant wait to see how much of a change there is with out the stock control arms.
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:32 PM   #60
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looks pretty good gus.
i still cant wait to see how much of a change there is with out the stock control arms.
Actually if I went with ACA I really wouldn't be able to get any more flex than I have now since I'm hitting the bump stops in that ramp pose. Any more than that and the tires would be into the metal. If I go with something like the Rokmen CAs it would be more for the strength increase. I bent a stock CA on my LJ...it doesn't take much.

I also think the Detroit in the rear and TruTrac in front will compensate on the trail for the lack of huge flex and get me through most situations if I drive smart.

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