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M38A1 Build Thread

9K views 25 replies 3 participants last post by  PELAGO 
#1 ·
AM RESTORING M38A1 AND am somewhat confused on leaf spring. kaiser willys offers a nine leaf spring but the m38a1 i have has way more than that, amd doing a frame up build. comments
 
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#3 ·
Here's an exploded view of one of the rear leafs I found as surplusjeep.com, hope it helps.

As far the voltage goes, its up to you and how you want to restore it. Purists like to restore as close to original as possible and a 24v system can add to bragging rights. The advantage of 12v is that its easier and cheaper to get parts.
If you do go to 12v, I'd recommend changing out all the wiring because 24v is abought 1/2 the size but any of the light bulbs can be switched out easily.
 
#4 ·
here's an exploded view of one of the rear leafs i found as surplusjeep.com, hope it helps.

As far the voltage goes, its up to you and how you want to restore it. Purists like to restore as close to original as possible and a 24v system can add to bragging rights. The advantage of 12v is that its easier and cheaper to get parts.
If you do go to 12v, i'd recommend changing out all the wiring because 24v is abought 1/2 the size but any of the light bulbs can be switched out easily.

could not get the exploded view to come up?? Am i doing something wrong here?
 
#6 ·
thanks for the diagram, i went to their page and got a lot of what i feel is useful info
looking at that diagram and looking at the two jeeps i have i feel i can tear down and re construct two good leaf springs out of the two vehicles. but will have to get new bolts for the individual "retainers" if that is what they are called and new bushings and of course U bolts
thanks
 
#8 ·
seems as if getting a 16leaf spring new might no be able to do?? Can get a 9spring set up pretty easy from 109.00 to 150.00.

still not sure that i need a new set might be able to piece together a good set from what i have available 2jeeps should get one set,, need to replace all 6 retainer clips with the 2 1/2" 5/16th hex bolt and the bushing,,,, wonder if just going to a auto parts store and get a set of bushings,,,, if possible??? the bushings that make prevents crushing the retainer that holds all the springs together???
 
#10 ·
seems as if getting a 16leaf spring new might no be able to do?? Can get a 9spring set up pretty easy from 109.00 to 150.00.

still not sure that i need a new set might be able to piece together a good set from what i have available 2jeeps should get one set,, need to replace all 6 retainer clips with the 2 1/2" 5/16th hex bolt and the bushing,,,, wonder if just going to a auto parts store and get a set of bushings,,,, if possible??? the bushings that make prevents crushing the retainer that holds all the springs together???
Looking at all the pieces and parts that i probably need, i sometimes feel inadequate for the project. I have never done a brake job? correct me if i am wrong, Remove bearing cap, cotter pin and wheel nut, then the drum should just come off? might need some persuasion by 16oz machine hammer tapping on it.. then take drum to someone to see if it needs to be turned, if not then okay if beyond turning then replace. then clean the whole mess, and replace shoes, and wheel cylinder, (i know that wheel cylinders can be rebuilt and i have a cylinder hone, but can be replaced for $20.0)

the manual i have does not have much on the brake job. isnt this one of the deals that if you have done it once you can do it over and over and over??? for me it is the once part
Don't know about the leafs but Ron Fitzpatric carries the spring bushings: https://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-1007-spring-bushing-921055.aspx

As far as the brakes go, that I do know about. Here's a generic video on pulling the drum but it leaves something out that may save you some pain (see below).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQQvFK4B6pY

Your brake pads should have adjusting bolts that if you loosen, your drum should come off easier. By the picture below, you can see they are a simple mechanism that you put a wrench on the back side of the backing plate and turn left or right to turn the post away from the brake shoes. The springs should draw them together.

After replacing the shoes, you adjust the brakes by tightening one bolt at a time. The simplest way is to rotate the drum (I do it with the tires attached) and keep tightening until the shoes rub on the drum and slow the rotation. Repeat for the other bolt. If you find, while driving that you may not have adjusted the shoes enough (or too much) you can just jack up the tire and adjust them some more.
 

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#9 ·
Looking at all the pieces and parts that i probably need, i sometimes feel inadequate for the project. I have never done a brake job? correct me if i am wrong, Remove bearing cap, cotter pin and wheel nut, then the drum should just come off? might need some persuasion by 16oz machine hammer tapping on it.. then take drum to someone to see if it needs to be turned, if not then okay if beyond turning then replace. then clean the whole mess, and replace shoes, and wheel cylinder, (i know that wheel cylinders can be rebuilt and i have a cylinder hone, but can be replaced for $20.0)

the manual i have does not have much on the brake job. isnt this one of the deals that if you have done it once you can do it over and over and over??? for me it is the once part
 
#12 ·
will be pulling power plant probably on sat, i can rent a engine hoist and have it all day sun and take back mon.. been looking at a engine stand but have to remove bell housing and clutch assy to use it... $80.00 think i will get clever and build a 2X4 on casters to sit it on, and make it high enough to sit on a bucket or stool and work on it but no wt on the oil pan
 
#16 ·
CAN GET LOST IN ALL THE FORUMS.
One new issue and when i was putting chains on i had to remove valve cover and i found a bad stud with some mickey mouse fix it done, so now have to restore that, hope i find that the threads are not striped and a new stud can go in. now have to make a work cart or a work stand to set the engine on.. looked at a motor stand but have to remove b ell housing and lot of other stuff, and can build a portable "cart" to set engine in and move it around,,,,, got another engine to pull also
 
#17 ·
Since i am working on this alone, sometimes have to get creative. transmission was reluctant to go in and its just plain heavy!!! i used a come along to pull it in.
decided not to get a engine stand because it has to bolt directly to the block. I built a simple cart out of scrap to just store it and move it around now to put it in the garage and get to work on removing tub.....
 
#19 ·
in my little seaside town they have a mullet festival, (yeah it is a fish) and is in October, my plan is to drive it, in my old jungle utilities in the 2017 parade, would be pushing it to try for this year. but this week i was able to obtain surplus gauges, all of them, for less than 200.00 all are brand new out of the box including an original speedometer
 
#23 ·
what is nice so far is all the pieces that have been sand blasted are still whole and none of them are rust thru, now when i get the main tub off that is a different story, figure that i will need about $1000.00 worth of repair panels to restore the tub,,, fenders and hood all have been done and are in garage on a blanket. but still a restored M38A1 frame up for less than 4k
 
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