2012-13 Wrangler Aftermarket Stereo Install Write-up - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:52 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by eboven View Post
Next I will go over how to get the dash apart - it's probably been covered before, but just in case:

Stock setup over-view


Steering Wheel Controls - the main audio buttons are on the back-side of the steering wheel


Start with the top dash pocket area. There is a rubber insert that can be pried up with a panel popper or small screwdriver.


You will then see a single 7mm bolt that needs to be removed


Next, turn your attention to the window switches. A panel popper or small screwdriver will allow you to pop them out of the dash; be careful not to mark or scratch the plastic if you're using a screwdriver!


Unplug and remove the window switches to reveal another 7mm bolt that you need to remove.


Pry off the driver's knee bolster panel starting at the top corners.


You will see two more 7mm bolts behind the panel in the top corners. Yep, remove them too.



Now you can pop the whole radio/guage cluster dash panel off, the rest is just held in place with pressure clips.


Remove the four 7mm bolts holding the radio in, unplug it and chuck that POS as far as you can
If you're installing a double-DIN, you will also need to remove the metal rear support bracket - I forgot to snap a pic of it, but you will see the two 7mm bolts you need to remove to pull it right out. There is no cutting involved with these newer JK dashes, but I did need to file away a little bit of the plastic cross-member directly above the radio to make the new one fit in. Once I installed everything, the 7mm on the top dash pocket didn't have anything to screw into since the metal rear support bar had it's fastener attached to it; other than that, just reverse the steps above to re-assemble.

Here's his Kenwood installed
Best Buy installed dnn770hd in 2013 sport unlimited. When I picked Jeep up, I noticed the center dash panel sticks out 1/2 inch on passenger side. He told me I would need to order a new dash panel (one made for navigation unit, rather than uconnect 130N). This seems crazy. Did you have similar problem? I noticed you removed/filed certain brackets...is this why? I am a novice, so couldn't do myself, so welcome suggestions. I am located in Illinois, near Chicago. By the way, I had him put my OEM unit back in and now my radio is no longer flush and the dash is no longer flush on passenger side bottom. Any thoughts as to why? Thanks!

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Old 05-24-2013, 11:08 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by 2013JKCherry View Post
I just had a kenwood dnn770hd installed in my 2013 jeep sport unlimited. The Best Buy install expert said the double din could not fit flush, so the dash panel on the passenger side sticks out 1/2 inch, which looked horrible. I had him put my OEM 130N back in (he messed my dash up, as my radio is no longer flush on bottom and is now on a slight angle to the driver side). He told me I would need to order a new dash panel if I want to install 2-DIN aftermarket radio, which seems crazy. Did you have this problem? I see you removed/filed certain braces...is that what he should have done? Any advice, as I am a novice (my first mistake was probably having Best Buy install).
Take it back and raise hell, you got the trainee who doesn't know what he's doing.

Two things necessary to make an after market double DIN fit flush - remove the metal bracket that holds the back of the stock radio (two bolts and cutting a plastic plug), and attach a good double DIN mounting kit. You could do it yourself in about half an hour with tutorials from this site.

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Old 05-25-2013, 05:27 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by jeepedjeep View Post
idk if this helps anyone but if you run stock HU but want to run an aftermarket amp you would need a signal summing device.

I have a 2013 JKUR with the alpine. I took all stock crap out and replaced with kicker DS and a JBL 8" sub. I kept the stock HU and ran the HU to a audio control LC8 then to a alpine PDX 5 amplifier. I mounted the amp under the driver seat via a bracket I engineered.


after listening to it more and more I really just want to find a near factory looking HU and replace it. The stock one has to many limitations do to the fact that I had to keep the stock amp and then run it to my lc8 and then amp to get the full signal.

If you want to see my bracket check it out pm me with any questions .

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/und...ts-231472.html
Jeepedjeep, I followed ur install in another thread, what's making you lean towards a new HU? This is a bit disconcerting because I was planning to follow your setup and thought you and others were happy with it.

On a side note, might be interested in 2 of your brackets. Do they fit 2 doors also? PM me with a price for 2 shipped to NY/NJ, thx
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:08 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by 2013JKCherry View Post
Best Buy installed dnn770hd in 2013 sport unlimited. When I picked Jeep up, I noticed the center dash panel sticks out 1/2 inch on passenger side. He told me I would need to order a new dash panel (one made for navigation unit, rather than uconnect 130N). This seems crazy. Did you have similar problem? I noticed you removed/filed certain brackets...is this why? I am a novice, so couldn't do myself, so welcome suggestions. I am located in Illinois, near Chicago. By the way, I had him put my OEM unit back in and now my radio is no longer flush and the dash is no longer flush on passenger side bottom. Any thoughts as to why? Thanks!
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Take it back and raise hell, you got the trainee who doesn't know what he's doing.

Two things necessary to make an after market double DIN fit flush - remove the metal bracket that holds the back of the stock radio (two bolts and cutting a plastic plug), and attach a good double DIN mounting kit. You could do it yourself in about half an hour with tutorials from this site.
I just finally installed a new head unit, Sony XAV-601BT, after a month of delay, have yet to hook up the rear camera though.

I took out that metal bracket as everybody have said and also used the Scosche double din kit. Everything looks fine, no trimming required, just needed to pick the correct mounting holes on the brackets. Make sure to line up the top of the bracket with the top of head unit (not have the bracket aligned center with the head unit)
(I sold the PAC double din kit which was included free from Crutchfield as I've seen people said you would need to trim 1/8 from the dashboard to fit the head unit in. I couldn't verify that as I didn't try)
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:19 AM   #65
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(I sold the PAC double din kit which was included free from Crutchfield as I've seen people said you would need to trim 1/8 from the dashboard to fit the head unit in. I couldn't verify that as I didn't try)
To correct myself, I meant I sold the Metra double din kit, not PAC which they don't make a dash kit.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:41 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by 2013JKCherry View Post

Best Buy installed dnn770hd in 2013 sport unlimited. When I picked Jeep up, I noticed the center dash panel sticks out 1/2 inch on passenger side. He told me I would need to order a new dash panel (one made for navigation unit, rather than uconnect 130N). This seems crazy. Did you have similar problem? I noticed you removed/filed certain brackets...is this why? I am a novice, so couldn't do myself, so welcome suggestions. I am located in Illinois, near Chicago. By the way, I had him put my OEM unit back in and now my radio is no longer flush and the dash is no longer flush on passenger side bottom. Any thoughts as to why? Thanks!
They f'd up your dash.... Make them buy a new one. As said, its removing a metal bracket and possibly trimming an inner plastic piece. There is NO modification to the dash itself.
I would bet that the tech didn't realize there were bolts on both sides of the steering wheel and tried to force it off which separated the air vent plastic from the dash (its plastic welded pieces from the factory).
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:18 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by eboven View Post
  1. The CHTO-013BB has the ASWC harness pre-wired into it - there are no additional connections needed to get your steereing wheel controls to work with the new radio.
When I google search "CHTO-013BB" the website that comes up says that harness only works on the 2007 Jeep Wranglers...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-CHTO-013.html
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:45 PM   #68
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The PDF on Metra's website says Wrangler 07-up.

http://www.metraonline.com/part/CHTO-013

Again, I would caution people about listening to resellers of products such as Crutchfield etc. The amount of erroneous information they provide seems to be fairly significant.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:02 AM   #69
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I have also been seeing a few requests for the factory amp's wiring. I did not need to do anything with the factory amp during this install, but I did snap a pic of the two amp plugs and verify the wiring for reference. The amp is located directly behind the front left woofer, the plugs can be easily accessed near the OBDII scan tool port.

In the following pin-out list, the large white plug is referred to as C1 and the smaller black plug is C2.

Front Left Woofer + Grey/Violet Pin C2-8
Front Left Woofer - Grey/Yellow Pin C2-16
Front Left Tweeter + Grey/Orange Pin C1-20
Front Left Tweeter - Grey/Yellow Pin C1-9

Front Right Woofer + Dark Green/Violet Pin C2-7
Front Right Woofer - Dark Green/Yellow Pin C2-15
Front Right Tweeter + Grey/Dark Green Pin C1-19
Front Right Tweeter - Grey/Light Green Pin C1-8

Soundbar Left + Grey/Light Green Pin C2-13
Soundbar Left - Grey/Dark Green Pin C2-5
Soundbar Right + Dark Green/Light Green Pin C2-4
Soundbar Right - Dark Green/Grey Pin C2-12

Subwoofer 1 + Grey/Brown Pin C2-14
Subwoofer 1 - Dark Green/Brown Pin C2-6
Subwoofer 2 + Grey/White Pin C2-3
Subwoofer 2 - Dark Green/White Pin C2-11

Hope this helps!
THANK YOU for this great thread. Helped me out tremendously and I really want to thank you for doing this. I did notice something that did not match to your colors diagram.

Theses should be the updated wires for the 2013 JKUR Soundbar:

Soundbar Left + Black/White Pin C2-13
Soundbar Left - Dark Green Pin C2-5
Soundbar Right + Light Blue Pin C2-4
Soundbar Right - Light Green Pin C2-12


Sometime down the line I would like to change out my system on my 2013 JKUR10A (I currently am running the Alpine Sound System). For the time being I decided to add some Bass Blockers to my front tweets (Blocks 0-2.8khz), front woofers (Blocks 0-600hz), and soundbar woofers (Blocks 0-600hz). I want to protect them from being blown. Also I want what is meant to be played out of each speaker played. For example, tweets should not have any bass pass thorough them or the singer voice,They are made for your high frequency stuff like treble (the counterpart of bass). So I added a Bass Blocker that blocks 0-2.8khz. In other words anything after 2.8kh would be payed (cymbals, piano keys, any load noise without bass).

So I moved on to the front woofers. I used a Bass Blocker that eliminated 0-600hz (the are low numbers.. so most low bass stiff 0-600hz) Anything above that is (voices, cymbals, and good bass above 600hz!)

I also did the same for the soundbar, but I stuffed into the cans some fill stuff you buy at Joanns. My nightly meds have kicked in and I am slurring on this keyboard. Got to go.

Remember, when adding the Bass Blocker add it to the positive side of your speaker wirt.. Thanks.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:35 AM   #70
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THe stock system is so weak, I doubt whatever you do you are going to blow anything.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:22 PM   #71
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Perhaps I missed this in the thread, but I have a question about the wire colors referenced above. Do these colors match up with what comes out of the 130 base HU (no factory amp)? Is there another thread that lists the speakers +/- coming from the back of the 130 HU?
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:37 PM   #72
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THe stock system is so weak, I doubt whatever you do you are going to blow anything.
I feel you on the stock system thing, it is clear that an aftermarket system is way better. However, you can still blow a stock systems speakers and make them sound even more crappy. Also, you can improve the quality of them only so far, but it is better than the standard. At least you can do your best to not have them bottom out.


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Originally Posted by dueces1 View Post
Perhaps I missed this in the thread, but I have a question about the wire colors referenced above. Do these colors match up with what comes out of the 130 base HU (no factory amp)? Is there another thread that lists the speakers +/- coming from the back of the 130 HU?
That makes sense.. my HU is a 730N and maybe that is why they did not match up to his wire color diagram. Those are for a 730N HU that I posted.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:03 PM   #73
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The colours referenced above are from the amplifier, not the head unit. They match the stock wiring from the amp on my '13.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:33 PM   #74
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The colours referenced above are from the amplifier, not the head unit. They match the stock wiring from the amp on my '13.

That's what I was assuming they were from the amp. I'm looking for a wire guide of what comes directly out of the 130 HU.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:34 PM   #75
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The colours referenced above are from the amplifier, not the head unit. They match the stock wiring from the amp on my '13.
Ok.. thanks for clearing that up. I am not the best at system setup. The colors however did match up with the appropriate speakers except the soundbar. The wire colors I posted are the correct ones soundbar speaker wires for +,-

@ woansleftpeg - So why did everything match up but the soundbar wires?
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:04 PM   #76
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Ok.. thanks for clearing that up. I am not the best at system setup. The colors however did match up with the appropriate speakers except the soundbar. The wire colors I posted are the correct ones soundbar speaker wires for +,-

@ woansleftpeg - So why did everything match up but the soundbar wires?
No idea, you might be right that they have changed colours. I was responding to dueces1's question about whether they corresponded to the 130N, the answer to that being that looking at the wiring from my original 130N, the pairs are:

Green - RL
White - FL
Grey - FR
Purple - RR
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:58 PM   #77
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No idea, you might be right that they have changed colours. I was responding to dueces1's question about whether they corresponded to the 130N, the answer to that being that looking at the wiring from my original 130N, the pairs are:

Green - RL
White - FL
Grey - FR
Purple - RR
Yeah.. I don't know why. Weird how everything else was right on mine except the Soundbar.

Anyone else look at the speaker wires on the soundbar with a 730N?
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:41 PM   #78
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The factory antenna will not work with any aftermarket unit, just FYI from what ive read and found.
Weird because I'm using the factory radio and sirius antennas with my aftermarket HU.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:08 PM   #79
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Nice write up
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:42 PM   #80
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Weird because I'm using the factory radio and sirius antennas with my aftermarket HU.
Can't speak for Sirius as I didn't have factory installed, but I needed an adapter to connect the stock radio aerial to my after market HU.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:14 AM   #81
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Good to hear there are adapters at least.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:37 AM   #82
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this thread is worth FAR more than a 430hu
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:42 AM   #83
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I only got one Crystler 22 pin connector, and it came prespliced to one of TWO 10 pins plugs for the steering wheel adaptor. The second 10 pin plug has all ten wires, the other one is missing a few, but came spliced to the Crystler 22 pin connector, so far it seems rather straight forward but I hope I'm getting it right
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:45 AM   #84
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Also my 16 pin connector has TWO red wires marked +12 Volt Ignition / Switched
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:04 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by eboven View Post
I have also been seeing a few requests for the factory amp's wiring. I did not need to do anything with the factory amp during this install, but I did snap a pic of the two amp plugs and verify the wiring for reference. The amp is located directly behind the front left woofer, the plugs can be easily accessed near the OBDII scan tool port.



In the following pin-out list, the large white plug is referred to as C1 and the smaller black plug is C2.

Front Left Woofer + Grey/Violet Pin C2-8
Front Left Woofer - Grey/Yellow Pin C2-16
Front Left Tweeter + Grey/Orange Pin C1-20
Front Left Tweeter - Grey/Yellow Pin C1-9

Front Right Woofer + Dark Green/Violet Pin C2-7
Front Right Woofer - Dark Green/Yellow Pin C2-15
Front Right Tweeter + Grey/Dark Green Pin C1-19
Front Right Tweeter - Grey/Light Green Pin C1-8

Soundbar Left + Grey/Light Green Pin C2-13
Soundbar Left - Grey/Dark Green Pin C2-5
Soundbar Right + Dark Green/Light Green Pin C2-4
Soundbar Right - Dark Green/Grey Pin C2-12

Subwoofer 1 + Grey/Brown Pin C2-14
Subwoofer 1 - Dark Green/Brown Pin C2-6
Subwoofer 2 + Grey/White Pin C2-3
Subwoofer 2 - Dark Green/White Pin C2-11

Hope this helps!
Does anyone know where i can get a harness like the white one pictured?? Doing my install of the LCi7 and my JL amp I cut the wires waaaay too short to splice (Yes I'm an idiot) and messed my install. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:43 PM   #86
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So thx to this thread mostly and a few others I got my system completed over the weekend. Wow what a difference! The best mod by far. It really showcases how bad the factory system is, not that we didn't know this already. I got it professionally installed by central sight and sound in Long Island thanks to Abe's recommendation from this thread. They did a great job, very neat, an reasonably priced. I would definitely recommend them. Ask for rich and tell him Darren recommended you on this forum. If you are thinking about modifying your system, do it. So worth it
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:10 AM   #87
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Wiring

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Well, I finally got a chance to do some work on a brand new Wrangler Sahara. Since I've been seeing so many requests for various information on the 2012 and 2013 Wranglers, I decided to snap a few pics of the process and do a write-up on here for you all. All the information here should apply to any 2012-13 Wrangler with the upgraded Alpine system without factory navigation, though some of it will also apply to any JK 2007-13. Sorry for the poor quality photo's; I only had my phone with me...

First, you need to gather all the necessary installation parts. All prices listed are standard retail prices, some online shopping can get you better deals if you want.
Dash Kit - Metra 99-6511BB ($19.99) - Comes with both the single-DIN and double-DIN mounting brackets
Wire Harness - Axxess CHTO-013BB ($139.99) - Retains factory amp and creates Retained Accessory Power for your new radio.
AM/FM Antenna Adapter - Metra 40-EU10 ($17.99) - adapts the factory antenna plug to the aftermarket standard connector
Steering Wheel Control Module - Axxess ASWC ($109.99) - retains factory steering wheel controls with your new radio



The owner of this Wrangler decided on a Kenwood DNX-6190HD navigation stereo with HD radio, Bluetooth, and DVD/Video capabilities. He also had me run a back-up camera and connect a smittybuilt inclinometer. He had the factory connectivity package, but I was unable to interface with the factory microphone after a bit of testing; he didn't mind the new bluetooth mic, but beware if this is something you are worried about. There are also lots of other options out there for harnesses and steering wheel control modules... I would recommend the parts listed above for a few reasons:
  1. The CHTO-013BB has the ASWC harness pre-wired into it - there are no additional connections needed to get your steereing wheel controls to work with the new radio.
  2. The ASWC is auto-learning, so it doesn't need to be painstakingly programmed to your Jeep.
  3. The CHTO-013BB has a 4-channel input, meaning you will keep your fade control with the factory amp and an aftermarket stereo.
When the install was all finished, the steering wheel's voice command button did not work with the Kenwood stereo; all other audio buttons worked, and he had volume up/down, track forward/back, change source, and seek forward. If you want to keep the Voice Command button working, most new Pioneer and Alpine stereo's will support the bluetooth commands, though I have not personally confirmed this in a Wrangler; it wasn't a big deal to the owner.

Moving on to the benchwire of the harnesses. It's important to familiarize yourself with the manuals for the wiring harness as well as the new radio. I will go over a few pointers to keep in mind, but I will assume you know how to match wire colors and connect accordingly.
  • The CHTO harness provides a Reverse gear signal output, a Vehicle Speed Sense output, and a Parking brake output in addition to the standard stereo wires. I used the reverse gear output so that the Kenwood would display the back-up screen automatically upon shifting into reverse. The Kenwood unit does not have a VSS input, so that was not used, and I chose to wire the parking brake input of the Kenwood directly to ground to bypass the video interlock.
  • There are two red ACC outputs on the CHTO harness - I used one for the Kenwood's turn on, and the other I split to turn on the ASWC and the back-up camera.
  • The CHTO comes with two vehicle-end connectors - be sure you begin your bench-wire with the correct one for your Jeep. Take the original radio out first and verify which plug you will need.

The CHTO harness/module. The two grey plugs are the vehicle ends; be sure to use the right one!


The CHTO module and the ASWC module plugged in and ready to be wired up


Getting there! The bare ends will connect to the Kenwood's harness


Benchwire complete and ready to be installed!


More to come...
I connect together all wires but vehicle-end connector still has blue wire not connected. Where it suppose to be connected?
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:28 AM   #88
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sirius antenna

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Weird because I'm using the factory radio and sirius antennas with my aftermarket HU.
what kind of adapter did you use and what brand HU? Did you have to buy a tuner?
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:44 AM   #89
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non alpine stereo without amp wiring harness

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Originally Posted by jryana6e View Post
How would the install differ for a 2013 JKU with just the basic 130 HU and 6 speaker system (lowest configuration - what I bought)? I'm guessing I'd need the ASWC-1 and that I could still use the CHTO to provide RAP (I see them on e-bay for $20). Is there a separate amp in this config, or does the basic 130 HU wire directly to the speakers? Guess I should crawl under the dash and look around...
if you don't have an amp, you need to replace the chto-013bb with xsvi-6522-nav. i'm not sure if they make one without the nav, i just taped mine up and left them detached. I have an 2013 JKU, it had the stock 130 without the connectivity package, I replaced it with the kenwood kdc-x996 I had installed last year in my '97 cherokee. How lame for jeep to remove the usb from the center console on the '13s. So irritating.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:27 PM   #90
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Using factory sirius/xm with aftermarket

Guys, just installed a Pioneer aftermarket HU. I had the cheapo radio which had Uconnect, steering controls, and Sirius already installed.

Everything is working well, but I have one question - is there an adapter that I need to hook in the already existing antenna into my new Pioneer. In other words, I don't want to have to run a new antenna if I don't have to. Is there an adapter or Sirius/XM receiver that goes with my Pioneer unit? I understand that I have to buy a sirius/xm unit because my radio is only Sirius ready.

So if there is an adapter, which one. And are there any recommendations for a good receiver that works flawlessly with my Pioneer unit. Thanks everyone!

My model radio is Pioneer AVHX8500BHS Double-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver With Bluetooth And HD Radio

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2013 radio , factory amp , navigation , steering wheel controls

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