2012-13 Wrangler Aftermarket Stereo Install Write-up - Page 5 - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 01-26-2014, 02:30 AM   #121
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I bought a clarion double din from crutch field & it came with the kit and everything needed to install. Took my Jeep to an install shop & for some reason the right side of the dash is separating from the dash unit where the glovebox is. I took it back & they said they couldn't push it to clip it to the dash...
They claim that the NEW Jeeps have this problem with the dash kits, but after looking at your completed install pics - Im not buying their BS story & think they didn't want to mess with it again. Is there some way to get the dash to clip back in without having to take the whole thing apart??? Because pushing on it doesn't work.

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Old 02-07-2014, 01:17 AM   #122
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Stock amp wiring

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Originally Posted by eboven View Post
I have also been seeing a few requests for the factory amp's wiring. I did not need to do anything with the factory amp during this install, but I did snap a pic of the two amp plugs and verify the wiring for reference. The amp is located directly behind the front left woofer, the plugs can be easily accessed near the OBDII scan tool port.



In the following pin-out list, the large white plug is referred to as C1 and the smaller black plug is C2.

Front Left Woofer + Grey/Violet Pin C2-8
Front Left Woofer - Grey/Yellow Pin C2-16
Front Left Tweeter + Grey/Orange Pin C1-20
Front Left Tweeter - Grey/Yellow Pin C1-9

Front Right Woofer + Dark Green/Violet Pin C2-7
Front Right Woofer - Dark Green/Yellow Pin C2-15
Front Right Tweeter + Grey/Dark Green Pin C1-19
Front Right Tweeter - Grey/Light Green Pin C1-8

Soundbar Left + Grey/Light Green Pin C2-13
Soundbar Left - Grey/Dark Green Pin C2-5
Soundbar Right + Dark Green/Light Green Pin C2-4
Soundbar Right - Dark Green/Grey Pin C2-12

Subwoofer 1 + Grey/Brown Pin C2-14
Subwoofer 1 - Dark Green/Brown Pin C2-6
Subwoofer 2 + Grey/White Pin C2-3
Subwoofer 2 - Dark Green/White Pin C2-11

Hope this helps!
You seem very knowledgable on jeep audio. I have a 2914 jku that came with base 130 system, I upgraded to a 430 and now I'm getting a stock Alpine amp and sub enclosure from a 2014 Rubicon. I saw that the sub wiring is already pre wired in the back but where can I get a harness for the Amp ? I assume I need the harness from amp to head unit and then a harness to power the amp. Any input would be helpful.

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Old 02-26-2014, 06:09 PM   #123
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hey guys, hoping someone has some insight as to whats going on in my system. I recently purchased an Eonon M1 (and lets please not go into a debate about head units, its a fairly priced system and company that I've had experience with in the past) and the chto-013BB as well as the ASWC-1. Everything is wired up correctly, however, I have no sound from the front speakers, only the back. Balance left and right works as it should on the rears. Fade front and back just alters volume of rear speakers when not centered.

The steering wheel controls are also not being recognized. The brown wire of the female 3.5mm supplied with the ASWC-1 is wired to SWC 1 of the Eonon head unit. The brown/white stripe wire of the female 3.5mm jack is wired to SWC 2 of the Eonon.

Here is the link to the product sheet for the head unit's wiring
https://www.eonon.com/Car-GPS/2-Din-Car-GPS-DVD/M1.html

I'm not sure if I have the infinity system or not. I have a 2011 Wrangler Sport M/T with Sirius.

Any help will be greatly appreciated as this thread has already helped me tremendously!
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:46 AM   #124
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Actually I may have figured it out. I don't have the factory amp so it looks like the 4 channels out of the head unit are consolidated into 2 channels by the time it reaches the factory harness, in which case the factory amp (if I had it) would redistribute into 4 channels. Being that I don't have the factory amp, the only connections to the factory harness are 2 channel rear.

I'm going to have have the speakers bypass the chto-013bb and go straight into the factory harness that way fade and balance controls will still work. I won't need to attenuate the audio from the head unit to the car's system because there is no factory amp.

Still not sure why the ASWC-1 isn't working but I can fiddle with that.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:25 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by jlagrave View Post
Actually I may have figured it out. I don't have the factory amp so it looks like the 4 channels out of the head unit are consolidated into 2 channels by the time it reaches the factory harness, in which case the factory amp (if I had it) would redistribute into 4 channels. Being that I don't have the factory amp, the only connections to the factory harness are 2 channel rear.

I'm going to have have the speakers bypass the chto-013bb and go straight into the factory harness that way fade and balance controls will still work. I won't need to attenuate the audio from the head unit to the car's system because there is no factory amp.

Still not sure why the ASWC-1 isn't working but I can fiddle with that.
I just wanted to chime in and say that I could not for the life of me get my ASWC-1 to work with my new head unit in my 14. I ended up going with the PAC unit and it works flawlessly. Don't know why it would never work. It worked flawlessly in my Tacoma.
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:31 PM   #126
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Yeah not sure. I'm going to fiddle with it some more. My head unit also allows me to manually program the controls too so I'll try that as well.

Thankfully my rear view camera came today so I got to mount that and run the wires. Still not totally sure it will work automatically when I put the car in reverse (M/T) but I guess we'll see.
Not sure what the quality will be but the whole mounting system for this specific camera is really genius. It's a 1 piece bracket that has a replacement housing for the license plate light. Just snaps right in and you can run the cables up along the license plate bulb's wire. Took forever to get here from China but looks factory.

Hopefully I can get everything together tomorrow. It's wicked cold in NNJ right now.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:58 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepedjeep View Post
idk if this helps anyone but if you run stock HU but want to run an aftermarket amp you would need a signal summing device.

I have a 2013 JKUR with the alpine. I took all stock crap out and replaced with kicker DS and a JBL 8" sub. I kept the stock HU and ran the HU to a audio control LC8 then to a alpine PDX 5 amplifier. I mounted the amp under the driver seat via a bracket I engineered.


after listening to it more and more I really just want to find a near factory looking HU and replace it. The stock one has to many limitations do to the fact that I had to keep the stock amp and then run it to my lc8 and then amp to get the full signal.


If you want to see my bracket check it out pm me with any questions .

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/und...ts-231472.html
I'm using an Audiocontrol interface too. It looks like there are 4 wires for the sub out of the amp. Did you use just one set into the lc8? Also wondering did you cut the wires coming out of the amp or get an adapter? I did the same set up in my old VW and found and adapter that I used to come out of the amp and then on the other side go to the speakers.
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:03 PM   #128
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Adapter

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Originally Posted by Kena View Post
You seem very knowledgable on jeep audio. I have a 2914 jku that came with base 130 system, I upgraded to a 430 and now I'm getting a stock Alpine amp and sub enclosure from a 2014 Rubicon. I saw that the sub wiring is already pre wired in the back but where can I get a harness for the Amp ? I assume I need the harness from amp to head unit and then a harness to power the amp. Any input would be helpful.
Are these coming out of the amp? Can I buy male/female adapters so I don't have to cut the wires? I have a 2014 w/ Alpine prem. sound. I want to cut into the amp out and put in an Audiocontrol interface then go to a 5 channel amp then back to the speakers and sub.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:34 PM   #129
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Soundbar wires

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Originally Posted by Meatball0311 View Post
Yeah.. I don't know why. Weird how everything else was right on mine except the Soundbar.

Anyone else look at the speaker wires on the soundbar with a 730N?
*****************

I'm doing mine soon.Were these the colors of the soundbar wires at the speakers or the amp? I read somewhere the colors change at the bar but this was a breakdown on the Infinity system. I have a '14 with the 730N too. I'm using an Arc Audio 5 channel amp, Audiocontrol Lcq-1, JL Audio 3c-650 (front) and 2c-650(back) speakers and a JL Audio 8" 3v3-4 subwoofer. I'm hoping to use the amp wire breakdown to tap into the system. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:57 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eboven View Post
Start with the top dash pocket area. There is a rubber insert that can be pried up with a panel popper or small screwdriver.

You will then see a single 7mm bolt that needs to be removed

Next, turn your attention to the window switches. A panel popper or small screwdriver will allow you to pop them out of the dash; be careful not to mark or scratch the plastic if you're using a screwdriver!

Unplug and remove the window switches to reveal another 7mm bolt that you need to remove.

Pry off the driver's knee bolster panel starting at the top corners.

You will see two more 7mm bolts behind the panel in the top corners. Yep, remove them too.

Now you can pop the whole radio/guage cluster dash panel off, the rest is just held in place with pressure clips.

Remove the four 7mm bolts holding the radio in, unplug it and chuck that POS as far as you can
If you're installing a double-DIN, you will also need to remove the metal rear support bracket - I forgot to snap a pic of it, but you will see the two 7mm bolts you need to remove to pull it right out. There is no cutting involved with these newer JK dashes, but I did need to file away a little bit of the plastic cross-member directly above the radio to make the new one fit in. Once I installed everything, the 7mm on the top dash pocket didn't have anything to screw into since the metal rear support bar had it's fastener attached to it; other than that, just reverse the steps above to re-assemble
Thanks for the great write up on dash removal!
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:06 PM   #131
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Does anyone know which wire is the correct AM/FM antenna wire? There are 2 (one I am assumning for SAT radio. After installing my new Alpine head unit, my FM reception leaves a LOT to be desired compared to the stock head unit.

I am wondering if I somehow got the antenna wires mixed up?
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:39 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudvegas View Post
Does anyone know which wire is the correct AM/FM antenna wire? There are 2 (one I am assumning for SAT radio. After installing my new Alpine head unit, my FM reception leaves a LOT to be desired compared to the stock head unit.

I am wondering if I somehow got the antenna wires mixed up?
I'm pretty sure it was the white one. I did have to remove the little plastic adapter from the stock wire to get my antenna adapter to plug in all the way.
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:42 PM   #133
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I'm pretty sure it was the white one. I did have to remove the little plastic adapter from the stock wire to get my antenna adapter to plug in all the way.
Thanks, I have to take the dash off again to get something aligned right anyway (cant get the bolt back in under the insument panel on the right as the tab is now 1/2" high and I cant figure it out since the rest of the dash lines up perfectly). and I will check it. I think I recall a yellow and white connector on 2 antenna leads. I THINK the adapter Crutchfield sent me only fit one but they looked identical.

Is there any reason an aftermarket radio should have worse reception than factory? Seems that a $300 Alpine should be equally as good as better at this than the stock basic factory unit.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:20 AM   #134
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Great write-up, eboven, thanks so much!

So here's what I got so far, please help clarify:

STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS: You can use the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 or a comparable PAC unit. However, D1EHARD notes the Axxess did not work with his '14 & the PAC did.

VOICE COMMAND BUTTON: Whether the Voice Command Button on the Steering Wheel works or not seems to be solely dependent on the Aftermarket Head Unit you are installing. Otherwise, it seems it does not matter if you use Axxess or PAC. The particular Kenwood model that eboven installed does NOT support the Voice Command Button. Pioneers, Alpines & even newer Kenwoods MIGHT support it.

EVIC DISPLAY: StringFellow says PAC works but Axxess doesn't. Poki implies he has the PAC and his EVIC still doesn't work.

CENTER CONSOLE USB PORT: Not plug & play, but most likely easily fabbed to work. Per eboven: "The factory USB in the center console ends up at the hands-free module which is located right behind the climate controls. It's a mini-usb connector with a molex plug formed around it, but with some ingenuity, I am sure it could be adapted to plug into one of the Kenwood's USB inputs."

SIRIUSXM ANTENNA: First, you have to be mindful if the new Aftermarket HU is only SiriusXM "Ready" or "Built In". The OEM 730N has it Built In. If it's not Built In, then you need to purchase the external SiriusXM module made for that Aftermarket HU. You can re-use the OEM SiriusXM Antenna if you break-off the plastic guard and find an alternative way to firmly clip it into the new Module/HU.

AM/FM ANTENNA: Just use Metra 40-EU10.

OEM AMP: Can retain OEM Amp with the Metra Axxess CHTO-013BB or PAC RP4-CH11; however, only the Axxess supports 4-channel whereas the PAC only supports 2-channel (per pac-audio.com: "In Premium Amplified Systems only two input channels can be used from the aftermarket radio, therefore there will be no fading capability of the aftermarket stereo.") So if you want to retain the ability to fade between front & rear speakers (when keeping the OEM amp & speakers), you need the Axxess.

OEM MICROPHONE: Not clear if you can fab this to work in some cases. eboven could not get it to work with his Kenwood model.

HDD: How about the Hard Drive? The 730N/Premium Audio comes with a HDD, right? Is it built into the 730N HU or is it a separate "module" somewhere?

UCONNECT: What is "Uconnect" anyway?? It seems Chrysler just tacks this name before every possible feature having anything to do with the audio system. More specifically, the PAC RP4-CH11 specifically says "Does not retain uConnect." What does that mean? Does the Axxess retain Uconnect?


So the bottom line is, if you go with the Metra Axxess CHTO-013BB & ASWC-1 combo, you retain the ability to fade front & rear; however, the EVIC Display & 2014 Steering Wheel Controls might not work. If you go with the PAC RP4-CH11 kit, then your EVIC Display may work properly & it might be mandatory for 2014 Steering Wheel Controls; however, you will loose the ability to fade front to back and also loose "Uconnect".

...right?
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:47 AM   #135
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I have some differing info that may help you as well because there is another alternative. I used the iData Maestro when I put in my Kenwood. I removed the Kenwood because of other issues, but the Maestro interface worked great. See notes below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BonesDT View Post

STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS: Meastro made all these work. Can even remap if you like.

VOICE COMMAND BUTTON: Meastro made all these work. Can even remap if you like.

EVIC DISPLAY: Maestro made this work.

CENTER CONSOLE USB PORT: Maestro made this work.

SIRIUSXM ANTENNA: My Kenwood did not have the Sirius XM module.

AM/FM ANTENNA: Just use Metra 40-EU10.

OEM AMP: Maestro made this work like stock.

OEM MICROPHONE: This worked with the uconnect module, but the kenwood needed its own mic to work correctly.

HDD: I had no HDD

UCONNECT: uconnect is the factory bluetooth connection (I think its also what adds the USB center console). This was the biggest reason I was ok with returning the Kenwood. The Kenwood/Maestro combo gave me the option to use either BT through the Kenwood or uconnect. The Kenwood gave a little better streaming options (certain apps) but the uconnect let me hear sms text read aloud-the Kenwood didnt. The GPS in the Kenwood was nice, the extra power to the speakers was nice but the loss of cool BT functionality made it not really worth it. I tried using both BT, but had intermittant connectivity issues.


So the bottom line for me was the Maestro was a great interface and the Kenwood was pretty good. If Crutchfield actually helped me and sent the replacement part instead of giving me the try this and call back option for 3 days straight, I would still have the Kenwood in my Jeep.

...right?
Hope this helps.

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Old 07-09-2014, 10:09 AM   #136
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Question aftermarket HU poor radio reception

I have noticed the same issue when I tried to upgrade my stock 130 (no amp, no bluetooth) to a basic Clarion CX501 HU. The FM reception cuts out as soon as I enter the garage and the garage door not even closed yet. I returned the Clarion thinking may be it was defective as my stock 130 HU has no problem getting FM stations at level 2 below ground garage!

So, I am wondering if this is typical with aftermarket HUs? or would I have better luck trying a more expensive HU?

Any feedbacks would be most appreciated. Thanks.
T.C.


Quote:
Originally Posted by loudvegas View Post
Thanks, I have to take the dash off again to get something aligned right anyway (cant get the bolt back in under the insument panel on the right as the tab is now 1/2" high and I cant figure it out since the rest of the dash lines up perfectly). and I will check it. I think I recall a yellow and white connector on 2 antenna leads. I THINK the adapter Crutchfield sent me only fit one but they looked identical.

Is there any reason an aftermarket radio should have worse reception than factory? Seems that a $300 Alpine should be equally as good as better at this than the stock basic factory unit.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:56 PM   #137
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Nice post, thanks.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:04 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by tc416 View Post
I have noticed the same issue when I tried to upgrade my stock 130 (no amp, no bluetooth) to a basic Clarion CX501 HU. The FM reception cuts out as soon as I enter the garage and the garage door not even closed yet. I returned the Clarion thinking may be it was defective as my stock 130 HU has no problem getting FM stations at level 2 below ground garage!

So, I am wondering if this is typical with aftermarket HUs? or would I have better luck trying a more expensive HU?

Any feedbacks would be most appreciated. Thanks.
T.C.

That could be a number of things.
The new head unit may have the squealch set differently, then the factory. Also could be a poor connection between the factory antenna and the new head unit. Have you tired the exact same radio station at the exact same time of day?
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:37 AM   #139
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So, I ended up buying a new HU when I came across a really good deal on a new Pioneer's 2013 model. Hooked it all up. Did the bypass and all. Turned on the radio. Hell, it was worst then the Clarion. So, I thought it might be a bad antenna adapter. I pulled out the unit and tighten everything again. Checked the antenna adapter and everything seemed tight. Since It was too late to return it, there was no other option. So I pushed in the antenna adapter really really hard. Put the dash back in and it worked!

It was definitely not the Clarion HU afterall!

Thanks for the reply @insylem and great post @eboven.


Quote:
Originally Posted by insylem View Post
That could be a number of things.
The new head unit may have the squealch set differently, then the factory. Also could be a poor connection between the factory antenna and the new head unit. Have you tired the exact same radio station at the exact same time of day?
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:01 PM   #140
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My antenna adapter was super tight. I had to use channel locks to carefully get it pressed into the antenna cable. Don't have to worry about it falling out
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:32 PM   #141
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Great write-up and a lot of good input from everyone! Thanks
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:29 PM   #142
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I can see that this is a pretty old thread, but I am trying to replace my stock 130 base unit (no bluetooth, no sub, no alpine, no nothin') with an aftermarket. Since i have the most basic of factory systems, my radio harness only has one connector. Bought the matching Metra connector and got everything wired up.

Evidently, even the amp-less, basic system still goes through some sort of processor/computer, because only my left speakers are working now. I tried re-wiring the various HU outputs to see if it was a HU problem or a Jeep problem. All the outputs are putting out signal, but i can only get them to play thru the left spkrs. What a PIA.

I eventually plan to just replace all the speakers & add a sub anyway, running new wire all around in the process, but I was hoping to at least upgrade the HU for now.

Has anyone else experienced this? Do I have to buy a PAC (or similar) even just to get the 4 ("6") craptory speakers to work? Perhaps even the base system uses an external amp (?)
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:08 PM   #143
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Do I have to buy a PAC (or similar) even just to get the 4 ("6") craptory speakers to work? Perhaps even the base system uses an external amp (?)
I can tell you the RES unit (factory standard) did not have an external amp. I moved to a new head unit and that provided much more power per channel than the RES unit.

I went with replacing all the speakers with the Infinity speakers, used the PAC Audio RP4-CH11 and purchased a steering voice button (since I didn't have the connectivity package). AFAIK, the PAC is simply a mapping device to re-enable all your Steering Wheel Controls (SWC).

My JKU sport did not come with a factory amp, so the stock head unit sounded terrible, even with the upgraded speakers. FWIW, the upgraded head unit I installed sounded terrible with the factory speakers.

I even filled the soundbar with sound deadening material.

It's been about a year, but I recall having to map the buttons manually to get the voice button on the steering wheel to work along with the channel button and then volume button.

I did not have a factory sub installed which is my next upgrade. Sounds like I'll have to buy an amp as well to get it work, but I'm going to try it without first. My head unit has subwoofer outs, although I have no idea how I will get them to work with the factory wiring.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:47 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by kbphx View Post
I can see that this is a pretty old thread, but I am trying to replace my stock 130 base unit (no bluetooth, no sub, no alpine, no nothin') with an aftermarket. Since i have the most basic of factory systems, my radio harness only has one connector. Bought the matching Metra connector and got everything wired up.

Evidently, even the amp-less, basic system still goes through some sort of processor/computer, because only my left speakers are working now. I tried re-wiring the various HU outputs to see if it was a HU problem or a Jeep problem. All the outputs are putting out signal, but i can only get them to play thru the left spkrs. What a PIA.

I eventually plan to just replace all the speakers & add a sub anyway, running new wire all around in the process, but I was hoping to at least upgrade the HU for now.

Has anyone else experienced this? Do I have to buy a PAC (or similar) even just to get the 4 ("6") craptory speakers to work? Perhaps even the base system uses an external amp (?)
Yes, even the base system without steering wheel controls you will need a PAC harness since the CANBUS is what controls power and other things to the head unit.

Quote:
I did not have a factory sub installed which is my next upgrade. Sounds like I'll have to buy an amp as well to get it work, but I'm going to try it without first. My head unit has subwoofer outs, although I have no idea how I will get them to work with the factory wiring.
If you don't have the factory sub installed then you will have to add an amp and run new wiring. There is no way around it. The sub outs on your head unit are RCA connectors that connect to the amp. The only way to avoid buying a separate amp is to buy an enclosure with an amp built in such as the infinity basslink. Either way you will need to run new wires for power, ground, remote, and the RCAs.

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