2012-13 Wrangler Aftermarket Stereo Install Write-up - Page 5 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:30 AM   #121
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I bought a clarion double din from crutch field & it came with the kit and everything needed to install. Took my Jeep to an install shop & for some reason the right side of the dash is separating from the dash unit where the glovebox is. I took it back & they said they couldn't push it to clip it to the dash...
They claim that the NEW Jeeps have this problem with the dash kits, but after looking at your completed install pics - Im not buying their BS story & think they didn't want to mess with it again. Is there some way to get the dash to clip back in without having to take the whole thing apart??? Because pushing on it doesn't work.

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Old 02-07-2014, 01:17 AM   #122
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Stock amp wiring

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Originally Posted by eboven View Post
I have also been seeing a few requests for the factory amp's wiring. I did not need to do anything with the factory amp during this install, but I did snap a pic of the two amp plugs and verify the wiring for reference. The amp is located directly behind the front left woofer, the plugs can be easily accessed near the OBDII scan tool port.



In the following pin-out list, the large white plug is referred to as C1 and the smaller black plug is C2.

Front Left Woofer + Grey/Violet Pin C2-8
Front Left Woofer - Grey/Yellow Pin C2-16
Front Left Tweeter + Grey/Orange Pin C1-20
Front Left Tweeter - Grey/Yellow Pin C1-9

Front Right Woofer + Dark Green/Violet Pin C2-7
Front Right Woofer - Dark Green/Yellow Pin C2-15
Front Right Tweeter + Grey/Dark Green Pin C1-19
Front Right Tweeter - Grey/Light Green Pin C1-8

Soundbar Left + Grey/Light Green Pin C2-13
Soundbar Left - Grey/Dark Green Pin C2-5
Soundbar Right + Dark Green/Light Green Pin C2-4
Soundbar Right - Dark Green/Grey Pin C2-12

Subwoofer 1 + Grey/Brown Pin C2-14
Subwoofer 1 - Dark Green/Brown Pin C2-6
Subwoofer 2 + Grey/White Pin C2-3
Subwoofer 2 - Dark Green/White Pin C2-11

Hope this helps!
You seem very knowledgable on jeep audio. I have a 2914 jku that came with base 130 system, I upgraded to a 430 and now I'm getting a stock Alpine amp and sub enclosure from a 2014 Rubicon. I saw that the sub wiring is already pre wired in the back but where can I get a harness for the Amp ? I assume I need the harness from amp to head unit and then a harness to power the amp. Any input would be helpful.

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Old 02-26-2014, 06:09 PM   #123
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hey guys, hoping someone has some insight as to whats going on in my system. I recently purchased an Eonon M1 (and lets please not go into a debate about head units, its a fairly priced system and company that I've had experience with in the past) and the chto-013BB as well as the ASWC-1. Everything is wired up correctly, however, I have no sound from the front speakers, only the back. Balance left and right works as it should on the rears. Fade front and back just alters volume of rear speakers when not centered.

The steering wheel controls are also not being recognized. The brown wire of the female 3.5mm supplied with the ASWC-1 is wired to SWC 1 of the Eonon head unit. The brown/white stripe wire of the female 3.5mm jack is wired to SWC 2 of the Eonon.

Here is the link to the product sheet for the head unit's wiring
https://www.eonon.com/Car-GPS/2-Din-Car-GPS-DVD/M1.html

I'm not sure if I have the infinity system or not. I have a 2011 Wrangler Sport M/T with Sirius.

Any help will be greatly appreciated as this thread has already helped me tremendously!
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:46 AM   #124
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Actually I may have figured it out. I don't have the factory amp so it looks like the 4 channels out of the head unit are consolidated into 2 channels by the time it reaches the factory harness, in which case the factory amp (if I had it) would redistribute into 4 channels. Being that I don't have the factory amp, the only connections to the factory harness are 2 channel rear.

I'm going to have have the speakers bypass the chto-013bb and go straight into the factory harness that way fade and balance controls will still work. I won't need to attenuate the audio from the head unit to the car's system because there is no factory amp.

Still not sure why the ASWC-1 isn't working but I can fiddle with that.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:25 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlagrave View Post
Actually I may have figured it out. I don't have the factory amp so it looks like the 4 channels out of the head unit are consolidated into 2 channels by the time it reaches the factory harness, in which case the factory amp (if I had it) would redistribute into 4 channels. Being that I don't have the factory amp, the only connections to the factory harness are 2 channel rear.

I'm going to have have the speakers bypass the chto-013bb and go straight into the factory harness that way fade and balance controls will still work. I won't need to attenuate the audio from the head unit to the car's system because there is no factory amp.

Still not sure why the ASWC-1 isn't working but I can fiddle with that.
I just wanted to chime in and say that I could not for the life of me get my ASWC-1 to work with my new head unit in my 14. I ended up going with the PAC unit and it works flawlessly. Don't know why it would never work. It worked flawlessly in my Tacoma.
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:31 PM   #126
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Yeah not sure. I'm going to fiddle with it some more. My head unit also allows me to manually program the controls too so I'll try that as well.

Thankfully my rear view camera came today so I got to mount that and run the wires. Still not totally sure it will work automatically when I put the car in reverse (M/T) but I guess we'll see.
Not sure what the quality will be but the whole mounting system for this specific camera is really genius. It's a 1 piece bracket that has a replacement housing for the license plate light. Just snaps right in and you can run the cables up along the license plate bulb's wire. Took forever to get here from China but looks factory.

Hopefully I can get everything together tomorrow. It's wicked cold in NNJ right now.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:58 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepedjeep View Post
idk if this helps anyone but if you run stock HU but want to run an aftermarket amp you would need a signal summing device.

I have a 2013 JKUR with the alpine. I took all stock crap out and replaced with kicker DS and a JBL 8" sub. I kept the stock HU and ran the HU to a audio control LC8 then to a alpine PDX 5 amplifier. I mounted the amp under the driver seat via a bracket I engineered.


after listening to it more and more I really just want to find a near factory looking HU and replace it. The stock one has to many limitations do to the fact that I had to keep the stock amp and then run it to my lc8 and then amp to get the full signal.


If you want to see my bracket check it out pm me with any questions .

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/und...ts-231472.html
I'm using an Audiocontrol interface too. It looks like there are 4 wires for the sub out of the amp. Did you use just one set into the lc8? Also wondering did you cut the wires coming out of the amp or get an adapter? I did the same set up in my old VW and found and adapter that I used to come out of the amp and then on the other side go to the speakers.
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:03 PM   #128
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Adapter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kena View Post
You seem very knowledgable on jeep audio. I have a 2914 jku that came with base 130 system, I upgraded to a 430 and now I'm getting a stock Alpine amp and sub enclosure from a 2014 Rubicon. I saw that the sub wiring is already pre wired in the back but where can I get a harness for the Amp ? I assume I need the harness from amp to head unit and then a harness to power the amp. Any input would be helpful.
Are these coming out of the amp? Can I buy male/female adapters so I don't have to cut the wires? I have a 2014 w/ Alpine prem. sound. I want to cut into the amp out and put in an Audiocontrol interface then go to a 5 channel amp then back to the speakers and sub.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:34 PM   #129
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Soundbar wires

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Originally Posted by Meatball0311 View Post
Yeah.. I don't know why. Weird how everything else was right on mine except the Soundbar.

Anyone else look at the speaker wires on the soundbar with a 730N?
*****************

I'm doing mine soon.Were these the colors of the soundbar wires at the speakers or the amp? I read somewhere the colors change at the bar but this was a breakdown on the Infinity system. I have a '14 with the 730N too. I'm using an Arc Audio 5 channel amp, Audiocontrol Lcq-1, JL Audio 3c-650 (front) and 2c-650(back) speakers and a JL Audio 8" 3v3-4 subwoofer. I'm hoping to use the amp wire breakdown to tap into the system. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:57 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eboven View Post
Start with the top dash pocket area. There is a rubber insert that can be pried up with a panel popper or small screwdriver.

You will then see a single 7mm bolt that needs to be removed

Next, turn your attention to the window switches. A panel popper or small screwdriver will allow you to pop them out of the dash; be careful not to mark or scratch the plastic if you're using a screwdriver!

Unplug and remove the window switches to reveal another 7mm bolt that you need to remove.

Pry off the driver's knee bolster panel starting at the top corners.

You will see two more 7mm bolts behind the panel in the top corners. Yep, remove them too.

Now you can pop the whole radio/guage cluster dash panel off, the rest is just held in place with pressure clips.

Remove the four 7mm bolts holding the radio in, unplug it and chuck that POS as far as you can
If you're installing a double-DIN, you will also need to remove the metal rear support bracket - I forgot to snap a pic of it, but you will see the two 7mm bolts you need to remove to pull it right out. There is no cutting involved with these newer JK dashes, but I did need to file away a little bit of the plastic cross-member directly above the radio to make the new one fit in. Once I installed everything, the 7mm on the top dash pocket didn't have anything to screw into since the metal rear support bar had it's fastener attached to it; other than that, just reverse the steps above to re-assemble
Thanks for the great write up on dash removal!

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