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Old 04-24-2012, 12:24 PM   #1
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2012 HU/Speaker/Amp Build Log

Ok I am excited for this build. So excited I am posting up before I actually downloaded any pics of the progress so far (those will come). This will be a build log for the complete install of an entire system. New HU, speakers, amps, sub and wiring.

First the goods:

Pioneer DEH-P9400BH
JL Audio C2-650 Components for front
JL Audio C2-650x Coaxials for soundbar
PAC Audio C2R-CHY4 Harness
PAC SWI
Fosgate 400-4, 4-channel for fronts and rear
Fosgate 400-2, 2-channel for sub
10" JL Sub and box (may not use)
New speaker wiring, RCA cables
Sirius receiver and antenna adaptor

So the install is basic. PAC harness for constant and switched power source, HU will drive the amp signal through 3 sets of RCA, each amp will be located under the seats, new wiring for speakers and leaving all JEEP factory connections untouched (just unplugged).

However even the most basic install for me is not basic. No half-assing anything.

The Plan:
  1. 4 gauge Knu-conceptz line from battery to below drivers seat. Then step down fused to 2 x 8 guage for power to amps.
  2. Second battery run (12 gauge) to under the dash to be relayed (by HU remote out) to supply turn on power to both amps and the Sirius receiver. I don't use harness power for anything other than HU. Plus HU remote out I like to minimize the mA draw and just power the relay.
  3. Both amps are going under the seats. RCA in from HU and front speaker runs under center/floor console. Soundbar speaker runs will go passenger side and up. Sub signal on passenger side to rear.
  4. For the sub I am not sure if I will re-use my sub box from my other vehicle or stick a nice high end 8" sub in the factory Infinity location.
  5. The build will leave all factory quick disconnects as is. I don't like cutting them off and/or splicing into them. Im going all new so I am leaving them alone in the event I have to put the stock stuff back.
Again basic but I am doing everything myself and I tend to do everything to perfection with audio. Don't like rattles or things coming loose so no wire ties and electrical tape connections here. All proper butt connections and heat shrink.

Pics and tutorial to come as it happens. I am sure a few things will get shuffled around or changed. It won't be quick but most of it will be this weekend. As I mentioned in my "Hello WF" post, I love to learn and share knowledge so stay tuned.....

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Old 04-24-2012, 10:23 PM   #2
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Day 1 and I already made some progress and a change in amps. After taking a good hard look under the seats, there was just no way I wanted to install 2 huge amps under there. With the combination of heated seats and flip style, I just don't want to even mess with installing them. Plus the 400-4 is longer than the damn seat so it would stick out regardless.

So to replace both amps, I went with a JL XD700/5. I got it for a steal from a buddy whom I also got the remainder of the JL goodies from. Nice to have friends in good places!

I then took a look at installing the JL. While it looked much easier due to the size, I still didn't like the fit. So the amp is going in the rear of the vehicle. I am eventually going to get a locking trunk of some sort, so that is the plan. Plus it uses a 4 gauge power so that lines up nice.

I did get the power run into the cabin through the gromet in the firewall. I have an auto, so the unused clutch opening was the easiest routing. All loomed and through. Plus I ran my second power run from the battery to support a remote triggered relay.

The rest of day 1 started off with getting the passenger side speaker tub out. I installed the C2 6.5 woofer in the tub, filed with poly-fill and put on rolled CCF around it to close the gap from speaker to grill. I used the original factory 3 point bolt pattern to hold the CCF. I then placed it back in the dash and decided to fit the crossover for mounting options. Turns out it fits nicely on top of the tub and just below the defroster/heater line.

I then wired up the speaker to the crossover. Im going to get all 3 sets of wiring ready, install the tub then re-screw in the crossover for its final install. I want the ability to play with the 3 settings inside of the crossover if needed. Not sure if I can do the same on the drivers side.

Some pics...





Also played with the depth of the HU in the Metra bezel. No it is not scratched, just a sticker I peeled and didn't clean residue off yet.


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Old 04-26-2012, 04:20 PM   #3
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I am really curious to see how this goes. I really want a double DIN unit though...
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:26 AM   #4
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I got another days worth of work done last night. Basically I finished up the passenger side woofer box and tweeter and mounted up the cross over. Ran the speaker wire to the rear and closed the box back in.

The fit was perfect. The tweeter fit right into the pod with zero modification. Crossover and all wiring for this side completed. The crossover is double sided velcro taped in and final screwed into the woofer pod. That way if needed I can get at it by just removing the cover to change the db switch.

Here is the outside view of the nicely tucked wiring. i also locked down the existing factory Tweeter plug. I am leaving allof them untouched. Tied down as I hate rattles. The extra black tape is just there to ptotect the speaker wire against the dash brace.


Here is the Crossover in its new home:


Tweeter in pod:


I also ripped out the entire dash, got my harness and Pioneer wiring all set. I got the Sirius tuner power wiring all set. Added the relay and ran wiring. Ill get pics of that later.

Next up today is to finish wiring of the Stereo, hook up the amp and start buttoning down all of the rats nest of wiring. So far the HU fits into the dash like a glove.
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:30 PM   #5
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Awesome! You do an amazing job with neatness. I wish you lived closer, I would give ya a few hundred to do my Dozer
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:15 PM   #6
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Haha thanks man. I spent ALL DAY today installing the rest of the goods. The system sounds amazing. I am honestly overwhelmingly surprised with the sound of the system.

The XD 700/5 amp is very, very good IMO. It took the place of both my Fosgate amps. The combination on the HU, amp and speakers makes fine tuning a breese. I still have to upload some progress pics.

I ended up tapping into the stock Infinity 8" sub. While it sounds OK, it dow not like power. If muffles out with like 25% of the power from the amp. No problem though as I wired it with replacement in mind. Will grab a nice W3 8" and install this week. Then a fine tuning will round out the system.

Pics tomorow as it is late..
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:38 PM   #7
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Please detail your install of the W3 when you get it. I will be installing the same sub in my factory location soon and would love to see how you make out with your install. If you can, post some pics when you get it installed. I think theres alot of people out there that are interested in this!

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Old 04-30-2012, 06:29 AM   #8
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I spent all day Saturday and part of Sunday finishing the install. Well it isn't totally finished, but the major wiring and amp install is complete. Last up to finish is getting int he remote bass knob. Once I have that I can tuck the 3 RCA cables and that cable under the passenger side run. For now the wires are visible. Also need to get in an adaptor for the FM antenna. It looks like the same plug as the Sirius which doesn't line up to my adaptor that I thought was going to work. Once those two pieces arrive, I will take off the dash one last time.

What I did get done was physically everything else. All speakers, HU, amp, all wires tucked in, Sirius receiver and antenna mounted. Getting the drivers side speaker box out was a royal PIA. Had to literally remove half the dash and speedometer unit. I tucked the Sirius tuner under the removable panel under the steering wheel. The Sirius antenna is tucked under the passenger side airbag behind the glove box. Fortunately the antenna wire is a mile long. The dash makes it tough as there are a LOT of things under there for heat controls and whatnot.

DSmith1187 - will do. I ran a new line from my amp inside and through the stock Infinity tub/box. I connected to one of the plugs and I am using it now. I think it is a decent factory sub, but it really does not have the snap or punch that I am used to. I am glad though that a real 8" sub will really sound good in this vehicle.

I played around wit the HU and amp crossover settings and the usual fine tuning with everything all set. I am truly impressed with the overall sound. My Escape had a DD AVH-P3200 and I think this HU has a better sound output. That or the speaker placement in the Jeep is better. I keep hearing different parts of songs that I never knew existed. Much better clarity.

I can literally crank the volume until I can't stand it and it does not break up or peak out. Total sound quality and clarity through full volume range. It literally cranks.

Her are a few pics I took with my phone. I have more on my camera, but I can't locate the stupid USB transfer wire to get them. In time....

Here is the HU nearing the end of install:


And the new C2 in the soundbar:


Couple things to note:

1. Installed poly fill in the entire soundbar and sub box. Of course I can't tell how effective it was as I swapped speakers, but I assume it works.

2. Ran front left speaker line up and through the roll bar on the drivers side. Then combined with the 2 soundbar lines and down to the amp along the rollbar. Not a wire to be seen!

3. Amp is mounted in the rear area plastic on the drivers side. I tapped into the nice unpainted anchor bolt under the plastic housing that surrounds the seat belt assembly. I tried to use the Torx bolt that hold the assembly, but it would not budge. The lower seat belt bolt on the floor was too big to use. So that is my ground location.

4. Ran 3 sets of RCA cables and 2 sets of speaker wire under the rear seat and fastened everything down. Once I get the remote knob, I will complete that run. Avoided the seat anchors so I could not worry about slicing one by installing the seat or flipping it up.
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:23 PM   #9
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About 99% done with the complete install. Got in my FM antenna adaptor and hooked up the 2 USB ports with cables. All that is left is the JL remote bass knob and 8W3 sub. Then I can close it all up.

All in all this system provides loud and crystal clear music. No distortion in any speaker (except stocker 8" for now) and I can make any wind noise dissappear instantly. The amp is incredibly easy to tune and the HU puts out a great quality sound. The only thing bigger than the music is the smile on my face. best thing is I did not cut one single connection besides one of the sub speaker plugs. Everything else was disconnetcted and zip tied to eliminate rattles. In the even I get rid of Dozer (not likely), the goods come with me!

Some pics of the near finished stuff:

Battery run under the hood. 4 ga and a 12ga seperate line for relay switched power to use as amp turn on and any future switched needs:


The mounted amp. Still need to final tuck the wires (once I get the remote knob). Will loom and hide.


The 2 USB lines are neatly tucked up under the dash and drop into the glove box. One for USB stick (or any other device) and one for the IPod.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:14 AM   #10
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Is it possible to tap into the existing USB line in the console instead of running new lines into the glovebox? Nice install btw. Wish you lived near me!
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #11
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It probably is possible. I know there is a small grey plug that I did not re-use that was plugged into the factory HU. I thought it was for the UConnect so I didn't bother with it. I would like to use the center console USb if it was possible. But dropping into the glove box was just so easy!

I got in the 8W3 today and installed. You do need a spacer as the magnet hits the back of the tub. Glad I grabbed a 1" spacer at the sound place as i had a hunch it was too long. It sounds a LOT better than the Infinity. It carries the bass much better and doesn't muffle out. Just need the remote bass knob to complete the install.

Sure is a difference:
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynskey
It probably is possible. I know there is a small grey plug that I did not re-use that was plugged into the factory HU. I thought it was for the UConnect so I didn't bother with it. I would like to use the center console USb if it was possible. But dropping into the glove box was just so easy!

I got in the 8W3 today and installed. You do need a spacer as the magnet hits the back of the tub. Glad I grabbed a 1" spacer at the sound place as i had a hunch it was too long. It sounds a LOT better than the Infinity. It carries the bass much better and doesn't muffle out. Just need the remote bass knob to complete the install.

Sure is a difference:
Are you installing your sub in the jeeps factory enclosure or will you be putting a different box?
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:49 AM   #13
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The JL 8W3 went into the factory 8" sub location. It needed the 1" spacer to fit in just right. I managed to use the existing screw locations to install the spacer. I counter sunk the screws holding the spacer to the tub. Then mounted the 8 screws that mounts the sub to the spacer. Siliconed in the spacer to the tub as well for an airtight seal.

I must say it makes an incredible difference. The factory location just works well as it is molded and out of the way. Still waiting for my XD bass remote to come in (tomorrow) so I can finally tuck all the mass wiring under the passenger side.
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:36 AM   #14
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I finally got in the remote bass knob that was on b/o forever. Now the system is finally all set and completely installed. Now the fine tuning can begin.

I ended up locating the bass knob on the right side panel just behind where the right stalk is located. I didn't like any of the other locations on the center of the dash and this spot was super easy to mount to:



And in the final spot:


A shot of the JL 8W3 in the tub. You can see the counter-sunk screws holding in the spacer ring on the top. I used the existing tub screw locations for 4 counter-sunk screws. Then I used 3" screws to screw the sub through the ring and also into the tub plastic. It aint moving!


Here is the wiring layout. With tons of stuff back there I wanted to lay it out to avoid any pulling of wires around the seat brackets and around the trunk hinges. Everything tied down and then the carpet goes right over it.


Nearing the end of the mess. Still need to clean up...
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:52 PM   #15
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So you brought RCA cables for the left, right, and sub from the head unit, down the passenger side to the amp in back. Then you ran the speaker wire from the amp up the driver side to the soundbar and dash speakers and straight across to the sub?

I am really new to all of this and trying to learn.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:40 PM   #16
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Excellent write up and equipment choices. I am installing :
* AVIC x930bt with sirius unit
* Arc Audio Xdi805 amp
* Focal PS 165's
* Focal PS 130's
* 2- CDT QES-820 8" subs Subwoofers Have to find a spot for a second one (probably have to build something)

Does the pac unit allow the phone controls in the steering wheel and phone mic in the jeep to sync with the aftermarket head units that have built in Bluetooth?
Can I use the factory xm antenna with my after market h/u or do you have to use the antenna that came with the after market xm unit?

Did you have to use ground loop isolators on your RCA's?

One last question and I have posted it in a couple of spots - Crutchfield indicates my 6-3/4" speakers will not fit in the front. What is your opinion?

Again great write up and photos!!!!!
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:35 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by DustinLH00 View Post
So you brought RCA cables for the left, right, and sub from the head unit, down the passenger side to the amp in back. Then you ran the speaker wire from the amp up the driver side to the soundbar and dash speakers and straight across to the sub?

I am really new to all of this and trying to learn.
Sorry so late! I ran front, rear and sub RCA from HU to the amp on the passenger side - along with the front right speaker (At the time I did just the right side install and hadn't yet tackled the driver side). I also ran the shorter distance sub wiring from the sub/tub to the amp. Those are what is coming over and affixed to the floor.

Power and amp turn on (remote) are tucked under the drivers side along with the bass remote wiring. That stuff is powered so I keep it away from wires/RCA.

Then the front left speaker goes up the front a-pillar and along the rollbar under the padding. Specifically ran that way to not be run next to 4 gauge power along the floor. Then they "meet up" with the 2 soundbar lines and run the rest of the roll bar down the drivers side. Those three go under the seatbelt box and into the amp.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:41 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Rbohno View Post
Excellent write up and equipment choices. I am installing :
* AVIC x930bt with sirius unit
* Arc Audio Xdi805 amp
* Focal PS 165's
* Focal PS 130's
* 2- CDT QES-820 8" subs Subwoofers Have to find a spot for a second one (probably have to build something)

Does the pac unit allow the phone controls in the steering wheel and phone mic in the jeep to sync with the aftermarket head units that have built in Bluetooth?
Can I use the factory xm antenna with my after market h/u or do you have to use the antenna that came with the after market xm unit?

Did you have to use ground loop isolators on your RCA's?

One last question and I have posted it in a couple of spots - Crutchfield indicates my 6-3/4" speakers will not fit in the front. What is your opinion?

Again great write up and photos!!!!!
Nice goods for you man! The PAC-SWI plugs right into the PAC harness and yes you can program everything on the wheel. Not 100% sure on the HU model if you can program the wheel phone button. If I remember right, it depends on the PAC-SWI version and HU capability. I use the buttons behind the wheel for volume up/down/mute and the other for channel up/down/function selection. I use the BT button on the HU for the phone. Plus it auto picks up incoming calls and I just use the HU BT button.

I haven't tackled the factory microphone yet. I think you can splice the HU microphone into the factory one. I plan to investigate that soon. My Pioneer microphone was run up the a-pillar and left next to the factory microphone for ease of investigation later.

You can use the factory Sirius/XM antenna that comes stock. It is the same end that plugs into your tuner. However the "snap" piece that retains it on the factory HU does not work and the fit is not secure. I used zip ties to affix it in place and it works perfect.

I did respond to your speaker size question. I'm thinking adaptors to use the 5-1/4" up front would work. Don't think a larger size would fit without modification. But I remember the 6.5" had some play on the front pods. I would pop out the passenger side box and check.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:27 PM   #19
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Lynskey, you really know your stuff...and I'm subscribing! I looooooove music and absolutely must have at least decent sound in my vehicles, but I've never been very good at configuring sound systems. Always had someone else do the installs, and always had difficulty making decisions on which speakers, head units, etc. to purchase for them to install. After reading this thread (which I found from the other thread you posted in earlier...so thanks!), I'm hoping to learn (and hopefully retain) enough to help me make a sound (no pun intended) decision on upgrading my system in my JKU. I went with the base system KNOWING I would want to upgrade at some point -- just gotta learn what to buy and how to go about installing. Again, your thread and tips have been VERY helpful so far. Kudos to you!

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Old 05-17-2012, 01:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynskey

The PAC-SWI plugs right into the PAC harness and yes you can program everything on the wheel. Not 100% sure on the HU model if you can program the wheel phone button. If I remember right, it depends on the PAC-SWI version and HU capability. I use the buttons behind the wheel for volume up/down/mute and the other for channel up/down/function selection. I use the BT button on the HU for the phone. Plus it auto picks up incoming calls and I just use the HU BT button.
I was told thru crutchfield and my installing shop...the pak unit cannot use the steering wheel phone button. Depending on the head unit, some can do preset up/ down and channel up/ down...others like my Kenwood can have one but not both
Pac has a spec sheet on what their units can do specific cars/headunits
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:06 PM   #21
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Yeah not sure on the phone button. I remember something about it not working.

On mine I have the left side buttons behind the wheel for channel up/channel down and middle button for selection of input (USB1, USB2, Sirius, etc).

On the right side behind wheel I have volume up/down and mute for the middle button. Those were all I cared to have programmed. I use the big ol' BT button on the HU for the phone.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:15 PM   #22
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Looks great.. Any updated pictures?
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:14 AM   #23
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I haven't done anything in a few weeks. Been enjoying the tunes!
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #24
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However I have noticed that the sub vibrates the shit out of the "sub tub" on certain songs. While I don't mind adjusting the bass on the fly with my remote bass knob for the amp, I can't stand bass induced vibrations.

The fix? Well knowledge in what is happening is the first step. In my last vehicle (2010 Ford Escape) I had sound deadened the entire vehicle. Not talking about sticking monster mat all over - real sound deadening and noise reduction.

With the Jeep I know it is not a SUV. It is not meant to be quiet. But It is also not supposed to rattle when the sub is hitting on a good song. So the fix will be some products from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com.
  • CLD tiles - To line the large flat panels in the rear and trunk.
  • CCF - to line between the "sub tub" and the metal.
Im not going anywhere near my last length of sound deadening. It would be a total waste. But lining a few CLD tiles on the flat, metal areas and CCF'ing between the plastic sides that touch the metal will eliminate the vibration from the sub.

Plus it will help eliminate the increased awareness of the vibration once the hard top goes on for the winter.

I'm picky, what can I say. I don't like things rattling from bass vibrations. I hate the clubby sound from rice rockets that crank the bass with everything rattling. I like good sounding music - not bass booming stuff. Rattles in a Jeep are fine but not to the point of this.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:49 AM   #25
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Vibration project is complete. Started a new post here:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/sub...ix-167889.html
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:00 AM   #26
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Lynskey - does your EVIC continue to work as before with head unit replaced? Any buttons or functions (not audio/video/BT/voice/phone related) lost when pulling out the stock HU?
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:04 AM   #27
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Lynskey - does your EVIC continue to work as before with head unit replaced? Any buttons or functions (not audio/video/BT/voice/phone related) lost when pulling out the stock HU?
I went with the PAC jack wheel button control and the evic works fine. The only thing that I lost was the phone button. Dont use it anyway cause can't hear anything with the top off unless I stop
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Old 06-21-2012, 02:08 PM   #28
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I went with the PAC jack wheel button control and the evic works fine. The only thing that I lost was the phone button.
Yep same here. The PAC harness and SWI doesn't work with the Phone button. Plus my HU has a phone button. I actually programmed the wheel phone button to be the pre-selected channel selector.

programmed as follows:

Left rear button - up/down for next channel, middle button for source toggle (CD, USB, Sirius, etc)
Right rear button - up/down for volume control, middle button for mute
Phone button - Pre-Selected channel changer (toggles through 6 pre-set stations)

Menu and compass buttons are unaffected.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:43 AM   #29
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I have a PAC Steering Wheel interface box in my work Subaru going to my Alpine HU there - interestingly I was able to program some buttons on the steering wheel that are not available as buttons on the HU itself. Anyway - will definitely be getting another PAC unit for my Wrangler.

I'm glad to hear the EVIC is fully functional after the upgrade. Some thing just aren't clear before you actually get done with the work, so thanks for sharing the experience.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:25 PM   #30
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 41
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My neck is red by the grace of god!
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