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Old 01-21-2014, 10:41 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I think you are misunderstanding my point. If you expect your amp to supply its RMS value, you have to match the ohms, period.

If your amp is stable at 2ohms@300wattsRMS, and you put a 4ohm load on it, you won't get 300watts.

Also, mix matching your ohms could cause heating problems.

Why Is My AMP Overheating? - Ask.com

An amplifier (AMP) can overheat due to various reasons. Mostly it is because of over use, if you are playing your music system too loud for long periods of time then your AMP is bound to overeat. Another reason could be the running the AMP at a wrong ohm rating. You need to know the rating of your AMP and make sure it is running on the recommended rating.

Amp cutting out/overheating? - Amplifiers - Car Audio, Video, & GPS - Crutchfield Forums

Your sub is a DVC-4-ohm model. If you have the VC's wire in parallel, which it sounds like you do - the amp is seeing a 2-ohm load, which it is not stable at - and that is why it is overheating.

Get my point now?


Have you not read anything I've posted? Lol

First of all, yes my amp IS STABLE @ 2ohms as well as 1ohm

Maybe you missed it but I have TWO dvc 4ohm subs.

And once again Ill post the picture of the wiring




I'm putting a 1ohm load on my amp and in turn its rated to put out 2,400 RMS at a 1ohm load

I'm not sure what is so unclear to you about this whole thing lol

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Old 01-21-2014, 10:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by switchJK View Post
That is the RMS rating

RMS Power @ 4 ohms 850 watts x 1 channels


RMS Power @ 2 ohms 1600 watts x 1 channels


RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channels



Hifonics BRX2400.1D Brutus 2400W RMS Class D Monoblock Amplifier
Thanks for the link. You didn't say it was RMS value so, I wasn't sure. But, are you sure that you want to pair 60watt RMS speakers with a 850 watt RMS sub?

Personally, I would be looking at 150-200watt RMS speakers, to take advantage of all that subwoofer power. If you had a speaker amp that could push such speakers.

I would be looking at something like these, for instance.

CL 61 CV

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Old 01-21-2014, 11:03 PM   #33
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Have you not read anything I've posted? Lol

First of all, yes my amp IS STABLE @ 2ohms as well as 1ohm

Maybe you missed it but I have TWO dvc 4ohm subs.

And once again Ill post the picture of the wiring




I'm putting a 1ohm load on my amp and in turn its rated to put out 2,400 RMS at a 1ohm load

I'm not sure what is so unclear to you about this whole thing lol
I wasn't responding to you.

Personally, though, I wouldn't have used two huge amps, to do what one small amp can do, like the Alpine PDX-V9.

Although, the CDT's or Alpine Type R's would probably be a better pair for the powerful subwoofer (1000RMS) that you are using than the 60watt RMS Polks.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:32 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I wasn't responding to you.

Personally, though, I wouldn't have used two huge amps, to do what one small amp can do, like the Alpine PDX-V9.

Although, the CDT's or Alpine Type R's would probably be a better pair for the powerful subwoofer (1000RMS) that you are using than the 60watt RMS Polks.

the PDX-V9 would be an ok amp for highs but it only has 500rms which would put 250 to each of my subs which is 1/4th of what they are able to handle

When you get into the higher power rated subs none of the 5 channel amps will cut it


I don't think I'll have a problem with the subs over powering my speakers. I spent 280$ on my entire highs set up. I would have to spend 1000-2000 to buy equipment for me to even notice an audible difference.

If anything - id end up just adding in more of the polk 6.5s some where if I felt it was necessary

I tried running type r 6.5's before and didnt like them
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:29 AM   #35
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the PDX-V9 would be an ok amp for highs but it only has 500rms which would put 250 to each of my subs which is 1/4th of what they are able to handle

When you get into the higher power rated subs none of the 5 channel amps will cut it


I don't think I'll have a problem with the subs over powering my speakers. I spent 280$ on my entire highs set up. I would have to spend 1000-2000 to buy equipment for me to even notice an audible difference.

If anything - id end up just adding in more of the polk 6.5s some where if I felt it was necessary

I tried running type r 6.5's before and didnt like them
The treble and mid-range are going to give you the "audio" power, not the sub. Subs are meant to compliment the highs and mid-range. Especially, in vocal music, where the voice is determined by the mid-range mainly, and the treble to some extent. In classical music, I doubt the subwoofer was even used, because most of that music was created before the invention of the subwoofer(Ken Kreisel-circa 1961).

CDT's have excellent smooth highs and midrange, and great for a powerful subwoofer.

The CDT CL 61CV handle 160watts RMS. Those are the sort of speakers that i would look at for a 500-1000 watt sub amp.

I mean, what the point of having a 500-1000watt sub, if your speakers can only handle 60watts RMS?

Your voice is just going to be drowned out by the sub, and that is not going to be a good balanced system.

No offense, that is just my opinion, and it is validated online. I can give you links if you want, and, when I have time. But, it should be obvious.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:24 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I think you are misunderstanding my point. If you expect your amp to supply its RMS value, you have to match the ohms, period. If your amp is stable at 2ohms@300wattsRMS, and you put a 4ohm load on it, you won't get 300watts. Also, mix matching your ohms could cause heating problems. Why Is My AMP Overheating? - Ask.com An amplifier (AMP) can overheat due to various reasons. Mostly it is because of over use, if you are playing your music system too loud for long periods of time then your AMP is bound to overeat. Another reason could be the running the AMP at a wrong ohm rating. You need to know the rating of your AMP and make sure it is running on the recommended rating. Amp cutting out/overheating? - Amplifiers - Car Audio, Video, & GPS - Crutchfield Forums Your sub is a DVC-4-ohm model. If you have the VC's wire in parallel, which it sounds like you do - the amp is seeing a 2-ohm load, which it is not stable at - and that is why it is overheating. Get my point now?
.

This is NOT what you were saying to the other poster, you told him not to connect a 4ohm sub to a 1ohm amp. You continually give advice that is wrong and only confuses the situation. A couple posts above, one you tell a guy that his amp isn't rated to 850 rms when it clearly is. Stop.

500 watts for a sub IS NOT enough power to drive two subs (especially the ones he is describing) and NO the subs will not drown out the highs if set up properly. Power does not just come from your highs and mids, ever notice when you click the "power" EQ curve setting that is available on many head units that is boosts the bass output? You are on a roll. Bass is subtle and adds depth to music and when done properly is equally as important as the full range channels. Some would argue more so depending on what kind of music they listen to.

Your description above is correct because you appear to have cut and pasted it from somewhere else. Using ASK.com isn't credible since my 13 year old son could post a response there. Anyone could.

If you want to give an opinion, fine but don't come back and argue your opinion as fact. I can tell you from real world JKU experience that I need 1000 watts of amp power for my two subs to offset the 75 watts per channel I have for my component speakers. Especially with the top off. I just did an install for a friend in his Explorer and he has 100wpc for his $1500 FOCAL components and 2000 watts for his two JL subs and we may need to add more power for the bass. These things are not cut and dried, they require real world experiences.

I feel sorry for the people in other threads that choose to follow your advice as fact when it is partially true and misleading in other areas. Good luck to the people that take your advice on off-brand speakers that can't be auditioned unless you install them first, limited understanding of how to properly choose amplifier wattage and impedance, and NO real world JK experience, I'm done with this pissing match.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:33 AM   #37
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Well according to chas I am in trouble

100rms 2ohm amp to 60rms 4 ohm speakers and 360rms 2ohm amp into a 150rms 4 ohm sub

Chas you are WRONG. If you want to help people please do your research and learn the correct way systems and amps work.

Ask.com is not a reference as posted before and should not be used to learn from along with a lot of YouTube stuff. Don't get me wrong there is good info on both sites but most is incorrect.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:45 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I mean, what the point of having a 500-1000watt sub, if your speakers can only handle 60watts RMS?
Because those 160watt speakers won't be 2.6 times louder(160/60) than my 60 watt speakers

It's not like the subs will completely drown out my speakers and all you will hear is bass lol
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:41 PM   #39
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.

This is NOT what you were saying to the other poster, you told him not to connect a 4ohm sub to a 1ohm amp.
This is not what I said. I said its a good idea to match the ohms when connecting the speakers and the amp. I would not connect 2ohm speakers to a 4ohm amp, nor 1ohm amp to 4ohm impedance speakers. For the reasons I stated later in my other post. I'm sorry you didn't understand why I said what I said. But, your lack of understanding doesn't reflect badly on me. If you don't understand what I am saying, just ask for clarification, instead of attacking me with false statements.

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.
A couple posts above, one you tell a guy that his amp isn't rated to 850 rms when it clearly is. Stop.
This is not what I said. I said that I didn't think it was the RMS value because the OP didn't say it was the RMS value, nor did he give any model number, or product link. And, for the reasons I stated, it seemed like a number used to identify model numbers by using max wattage. Most stereo components are advertised by their max wattage, and people sometimes think that is a good number to use. You need to "stop" twisting my words.

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Originally Posted by Mattk11 View Post
.
500 watts for a sub IS NOT enough power to drive two subs
This is so untrue its almost laughable. But, I won't laugh at you. It depends on the subs. I have two 2-10" subs, which is the standard sub size for most fabricated dual sub boxes.
Mine are rated at 400watts and 500watts is more than enough to power them. The JK Helix sub box is also 500watts RMS, and it has 2-10" subwoofers. A 500watt amp would be perfect for them. You really shouldn't say things are totally not true and then put words into my mouth.

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.Good luck to the people that take your advice on off-brand speakers that can't be auditioned unless you install them first
This is totally not true. Just because the speaker is not a heavily marketed brand doesn't mean its bad, nor does it mean its good. Nor, does it mean its an "off-brand". CDT is not a "off-brand". They are assembled and QC'd in California, USA. I would trust their quality over a Japanese or "made in China", product like Pioneer. Clearly, Pioneer is a name brand, and everyone knows that they make a lot of crap. It is also clear to Wrangler owners that have stock speakers made by Infinity and Alpine, and the owners say they are paper crap. So, a name brand is no guarantee for quality. Clearly, the best idea when purchasing any speaker is to hear the speaker before you buy them, and don't buy paper speakers. I actually heard both the Infinity Kappa's, my first speaker upgrades, and the CDT's, my second speakers, "before" I brought them. It's ridiculous you trying to insult me, and chastise me, by putting words into my mouth. I am tired of this here. I will not reply to these ridiculous personal attacks by you any longer. Nor, will I continue to defend myself to the rest of your false spiel about what I've said, because of your twisting my words to try to discredit me and glorify yourself. I am really sick of this sort of thing when I am just trying to be friendly and give my opinion or advice.

To say that I am wrong, and then put words into my mouth is uncalled for. I don't know what the issues are with you here, but you are the one who needs to "stop".
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:44 PM   #40
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Well according to chas I am in trouble

100rms 2ohm amp to 60rms 4 ohm speakers and 360rms 2ohm amp into a 150rms 4 ohm sub

Chas you are WRONG. If you want to help people please do your research and learn the correct way systems and amps work.

Ask.com is not a reference as posted before and should not be used to learn from along with a lot of YouTube stuff. Don't get me wrong there is good info on both sites but most is incorrect.
I'm done defending myself. If you think its okay to mix match ohms and speakers, go right ahead and do it.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:51 PM   #41
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I'm done defending myself. If you think its okay to mix match ohms and speakers, go right ahead and do it.
I think it is so fine I am going it on a 100k+ build and with audio components worth more then your jeep
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:26 PM   #42
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Decided to build my own box. The car audio store wanted 90$ for something that I think I could do a better job with.

I came up with this using the available space in the jeep. Pretty much spot on for the specs alpine recommends for a ported box

It's also short enough that I can build some sort of security shelf



I have the main 1/0 power wire and all the fuses.

The only thing I still might need to buy is more 8ga wire to go from the amp to subs

Other than that I just need to find some time to put it all together :P
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:09 AM   #43
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Do i ended up breaking a saw and a vise lol

I went back to check out the boxes at the car audio store and they got a new shipment in and they had atrend boxes. From what I heard they were decent so I just ended up buying one

I used 1/0 power wire but I used the stiff stuff like an idiot trying to save a few $. It felt like I wrestled an anaconda for 2 hours.

Already have some welding cable that moves like a wet noodle im replacing it with

Next up is the big 3 and replacing stock battery with a better one and adding a second one.

Right now the install is a mess will take pics once its pretty

The gain is only about 1/2 up. I was blown away with the new type r's. Hits so hard just puts a smile on your face haha

First time I tried to take a video it shook the cup off the dash board


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