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Old 12-11-2013, 06:08 PM   #1
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2014 JKU Install

The one I wanted came with the crappy "premium alpine" system.

For a stock system it isn't bad, but there are things I don't like about it and it leaves a lot to be desired.

My last system was
6.5 polk fronts
4x 6x9 polk rears
powered by a kicker 850.4
2x alpine type r's
some kenwood amp pushing iirc 1000rms
pioneer HU
(can't remember any of the model numbers)
in my regular cab f150

So far for my jeep I have
Head unit - Alpine CDE-HD149BT
Speaker amp - Polk audio PA660
Front/Rear speakers - Polk audio DB651 6.5"
Subs - Undecided
Sub amp - Undecided

Going with 12's
Not sure if I want to do some damage with RE Audio xxx's or just stick with what I know and go type r's again

Wiring kit from walmart. It's enough for the speaker amp. Going to probably do custom wire sizes for sub amp




Using a broken hanger to poke a hole to run the power cable




Took the sound bar out to work on it





I originally purchased the 60$ harness that was supposed to work with factory crap to just see how the headunit was. Didn't work. So basically paid 60$ for the head unit power power. I bought the other crysler wiring harness they had for 9$ im going to see if it fits (says jeep up to 06..not sure if they changed the plug all i need is the power/ground etc....dont feel like tapping in or running separate wires) and take the 60$ one back

So far Ive ran the power cable
Took the sound bar out and working on installing speakers
Got some old pillows to cut up and poly stuff the bar as well

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Old 12-11-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
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I wouldn't have chosen these components for many reasons.

1. The Polk DB651 are 4ohm speakers. The Polk audio PA660 is a 2ohm amp(X4). I don't believe the amp will be stable with 4ohm speakers(x4).
From the Polk Website:"2 ohm stable 4-channel operation."

2. The Polk DB651 are 60wattsRMS, but the Polk amp is 75wattsRMS. I would choose a speaker with at least the same or more RMS handling capacity as the amp puts out. This way you take the best advantage of the amps power and remain safe from blowing out your speakers. Sure, you can gain down, but what's the point of getting a powerful amp, if your speakers can't handle it or take advantage of it. Not that it really matters with the components you have chosen, because the amp won't be stable with the 4ohm speakers.

3. The Polk speakers are good for non-amplified systems. Their low power handling capability doesn't make them good for powerful amps (60watts or above)

4. When considering an amps power, please use the RMS power, not the max power in considering compatible components. The max number is useless, and not anywhere near the power you will have from the amp. For Example, the Kenwood amp you mentioned is 1000watts max, but the RMS is 300watts(@4ohms). Since the best subs will be 4ohms, the RMS number is the actual power number and the number used to determine the proper subwoofer. I assume they say, 1000watts max if you turn up the gain all the way. But, this is dangerous because the THD is given at RMS value. Above the RMS value, you will add distortion that would blow out even 1000watt RMS speakers.

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Old 12-11-2013, 07:41 PM   #3
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I wouldn't have chosen these components for many reasons.

1. The Polk DB651 are 4ohm speakers. The Polk audio PA660 is a 2ohm amp(X4). I don't believe the amp will be stable with 4ohm speakers(x4).
From the Polk Website:"2 ohm stable 4-channel operation."

2. The Polk DB651 are 60wattsRMS, but the Polk amp is 75wattsRMS. I would choose a speaker with at least the same or more RMS handling capacity as the amp puts out. This way you take the best advantage of the amps power and remain safe from blowing out your speakers. Sure, you can gain down, but what's the point of getting a powerful amp, if your speakers can't handle it or take advantage of it. Not that it really matters with the components you have chosen, because the amp won't be stable with the 4ohm speakers.

3. The Polk speakers are good for non-amplified systems. Their low power handling capability doesn't make them good for powerful amps (60watts or above)

4. When considering an amps power, please use the RMS power, not the max power in considering compatible components. The max number is useless, and not anywhere near the power you will have from the amp. For Example, the Kenwood amp you mentioned is 1000watts max, but the RMS is 300watts(@4ohms). Since the best subs will be 4ohms, the RMS number is the actual power number and the number used to determine the proper subwoofer. I assume they say, 1000watts max if you turn up the gain all the way. But, this is dangerous because the THD is given at RMS value. Above the RMS value, you will add distortion that would blow out even 1000watt RMS speakers.
Ugh


1-The amp is 2 & 4 ohm stable 75rms @ 4ohm and 85rms @ 2ohm. If a amp is stable at 2ohms its sure as heck stable at 4 just less power going through

2-They will easily handle 75rms but I never have my amps turned all the way up.

3- That is in fact your opinion.



4- Do you really think I don't look at RMS? The amp turned down a little matches up perfectly with the speakers I bought.

The selling point for this amp was it's price/performance ratio. Brand new it was only 140$ and any of other lower mid range amps like kicker and alpine start at almost double that price for the same rms. Granted they put out a little more than they are rated but not 2x the cost more.

And it's also not like I'm trying to push 3k rms through a 60rms speaker...15rms isn't going to make all that much difference even if I did turn the amp all the way up

And why are you assuming that was the kenwood amp I used? FYI I went and looked up the amp i had and I used a KAC-9105D which runs at 900RMS @ 2 & 1 ohm. My bad I was off my 100rms or maybe the IIRC flew over your head




I love polks and they get loud

This was my old truck before I did any of the suspension

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Old 12-11-2013, 10:41 PM   #4
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Not hating, just trying to help. You can put whatever you want in your Jeep. It's your Jeep. I have a 100watt system with 2-10" subwoofers. If you check my profile, you will see that I have absolutely nothing to be jealous about. Sorry, you took my advice the wrong way.

My Audio System:
1. PERFORMANCE TEKNIQUE ICBM-SATLITE 7" Automobile Digital Panel TFT Touch Screen, In-Dash One Din, DVD/CD/MP3/MP4/WMA Player,AM/FM MPX Radio, Built-In GPS,USA/MEXICO/CANADA Maps Included, USB Port/SD Card Interface, AUX, BLUETOOTH, EqualizerSteering, Dual Zone, CC LED Fully Motorized/Detachable Front Panel
2. Clarion EQS746 7-Band Rotary, 1/2 din
3. MTX Audio Thunderform Subwoofer JWTJ97T20-T45 2-10" MTX subs, 4 ohms Loaded Vehicle Specific (Tan color)
4. 4-5.25" CDT Coaxial Speakers, 110wattsRMS
5. Alpine PDX V9 5 Channel Amp 100wattsRMS (4)x 500watts RMS sub channel
6. Extended Custom Cell Phone Mount
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:00 PM   #5
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Poly filled the sound bar
Ran all the cables
put head unit in
got the amp hooked up


Note - If you have a JKU i would advise at least 20 feet cables (rca/remote) if you are putting your amps and stuff in the back. I used some 16 feet ones and while they reached there isn't much room if I wanted to move them any further back. Adding longer cables to the to-do list
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:12 AM   #6
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Poly filled the sound bar Ran all the cables put head unit in got the amp hooked up Note - If you have a JKU i would advise at least 20 feet cables (rca/remote) if you are putting your amps and stuff in the back. I used some 16 feet ones and while they reached there isn't much room if I wanted to move them any further back. Adding longer cables to the to-do list
Your build is looking good and nice to know on the cables. I'm still waiting for my new Jeep to get built, so I'm ordering stuff in anticipation! I'm probably going to try and get some custom underseat subs so I'll need to figure out amp placement.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:07 PM   #7
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Your build is looking good and nice to know on the cables. I'm still waiting for my new Jeep to get built, so I'm ordering stuff in anticipation! I'm probably going to try and get some custom underseat subs so I'll need to figure out amp placement.
Yeah im still not sure what im doing for subs. Im wondering if i can carve out the factory 8 inch sub and stick a 12 in there ha

Been busy so heres a tiny update

Originally i purchased the scosche dash kit. Complete POS

Stuck out at the top and sank in at the bottom. No i didnt install it upside down lol its because of the curved face on the dash





Ended up taking it back for the metra one with the pocket under neath

Looks way better but i wouldnt consider it a perfect fit. I might be able to adjust it with some washers or something
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:46 PM   #8
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fire wall penetration.

Hey I am liking the upgrade. I am new to jeeps all together and the audio system is my next project. One question. Where is the location to run power wire into the cab. Just looking around and I am not seeing any place.

any decision on subs?
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:01 PM   #9
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Hey I am liking the upgrade. I am new to jeeps all together and the audio system is my next project. One question. Where is the location to run power wire into the cab. Just looking around and I am not seeing any place.

any decision on subs?
If you look at my second pic you can see where you can poke through the foam to run a cable(i used a broken hanger). You just pop the side panel off next to the glove box and it should look like that. Then from there I ran it underneath the plastic trim at the bottom to the back of the jeep.

Still undecided. I like the cargo room, but I also like bass. Trying to figure out a way to have both haha. If all ideas fail ill most likely go with 12" alpine type r's


Update-1/1/14
Finish the front speakers. Was very time consuming. Did the same as the sound bar with poly fill. Glad to have surround sound back haha. Very happy with the sound quality.

Also re-ran 25 foot rca cables and added a third in for the eventual second amp

If I remember ill take a pic of how the metra dash kid sits
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:18 PM   #10
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Glove box side. Thanks much. I'm new jeeper. Didn't know if that was from inside cab or engine compartment. It should be easy to find now.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:25 PM   #11
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Glove box side. Thanks much. I'm new jeeper. Didn't know if that was from inside cab or engine compartment. It should be easy to find now.
Yeah...also depending how thick of wire it may be hand to have a long sturdy piece of plastic/metal to stick through the foam then attach the wire then pull the stick back through.

If you need more specific pictures let me know and I can go take some later
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:26 PM   #12
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Yeah im still not sure what im doing for subs. Im wondering if i can carve out the factory 8 inch sub and stick a 12 in there ha
You can customize the factory sub enclosure to fit a bigger woofer but it will have to be a shallow mount if you want to keep the ability to open your rear storage. I originally customized my 2013 with a 10" shallow in the factory location but wasn't happy once the top came off. I then tried below the rear seats before settling on below both front seats. 4 different brands of woofers, two different amps and three locations later, I am happy. That was the only place I could get the same amount of bass with the top on or off.
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:25 AM   #13
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You can customize the factory sub enclosure to fit a bigger woofer but it will have to be a shallow mount if you want to keep the ability to open your rear storage. I originally customized my 2013 with a 10" shallow in the factory location but wasn't happy once the top came off. I then tried below the rear seats before settling on below both front seats. 4 different brands of woofers, two different amps and three locations later, I am happy. That was the only place I could get the same amount of bass with the top on or off.
Did you do forward firing subs under the rear seats or upward?

Did you have to make custom seat brackets to raise the seats at all?
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:32 PM   #14
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Did you do forward firing subs under the rear seats or upward? Did you have to make custom seat brackets to raise the seats at all?
.

Fire upward. At first I used RF P3 and then Kicker and did not need to raise the seats. Then rebuilt the boxes for Sundown SD-2s and the surround on those is over an inch high so I needed spacers on the seats to raise them up about a half inch. Absolute best subs I've used in a car audio install. Took me three locations and 3 different brands of subs but I finally got it right in the Jeep. Stole the idea from BMW and their high end sedans.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:02 PM   #15
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Ordered my subs last night

Once again 2x alpine type R (dual 4ohm versions)
and a 2400rms(@ 1 ohm) hifonics amp to push them
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:03 PM   #16
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Ordered my subs last night Once again 2x alpine type R (dual 4ohm versions) and a 2400rms(@ 1 ohm) hifonics amp to push them
.

Great subs, I built a couple pairs if the under seat boxes for the Type R 10" shallow mount and had a chance to test them in my own Jeep. I would put them in the top tier choices along with JL shallow mounts and the Sundown SD-2s.
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:00 PM   #17
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Ordered my subs last night

Once again 2x alpine type R (dual 4ohm versions)
and a 2400rms(@ 1 ohm) hifonics amp to push them

nvm
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:00 PM   #18
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.

Great subs, I built a couple pairs if the under seat boxes for the Type R 10" shallow mount and had a chance to test them in my own Jeep. I would put them in the top tier choices along with JL shallow mounts and the Sundown SD-2s.
Yeah ive had a few sets of type r's (although never the shallow versions) and love them

Im pretty hyped. This is my first set of new ones. All my previous sets were the 500rms models. The new ones are rated for 1000rms.

The subs and amp will be here tomorrow so i need to gather all my wiring and fuses.

Probably going to do 1/0 power cable and use it for the big 3 as well

Also probably going to build a sealed box
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:27 PM   #19
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Yeah ive had a few sets of type r's (although never the shallow versions) and love them

Im pretty hyped. This is my first set of new ones. All my previous sets were the 500rms models. The new ones are rated for 1000rms.

The subs and amp will be here tomorrow so i need to gather all my wiring and fuses.

Probably going to do 1/0 power cable and use it for the big 3 as well

Also probably going to build a sealed box
Please don't misunderstand me. Alpine type R's seem great. I would just be concerned with a 1ohm rated amp to push 4ohm speakers.

Personally, I would prefer a 4ohm amp to push 4ohm speakers. Please don't misunderstand me, I love Jeepers.
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:37 PM   #20
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I would just be concerned with a 1ohm rated amp to push 4ohm speakers.
Your have got to be kidding me. You have no idea how ohms work in audio do you.

The subs present a 1ohm load to the amp so in turn the amp see's 1 1ohm sub. Just because a amp lists 1ohm does not mean it can't be used at 2,4 or 8 ohm. You do not design an amp just to be used at a specific rating.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:40 PM   #21
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Your have got to be kidding me. You have no idea how ohms work in audio do you. The subs present a 1ohm load to the amp so in turn the amp see's 1 1ohm sub. Just because a amp lists 1ohm does not mean it can't be used at 2,4 or 8 ohm. You do not design an amp just to be used at a specific rating.
.

King is correct. Any amp can handle higher ohm loads it simply decreases power output in most amps.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:06 PM   #22
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Please don't misunderstand me. Alpine type R's seem great. I would just be concerned with a 1ohm rated amp to push 4ohm speakers.

Personally, I would prefer a 4ohm amp to push 4ohm speakers. Please don't misunderstand me, I love Jeepers.
Huh?

It kind of goes like this






On a different note. I called ups to hold my packages since I wasn't going to be home. They confirmed so I went to pick up the subs and amp and the ding dongs only held the subs and tried to delivery the amp.

Now I have to make a second trip back to the ups facility
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:45 PM   #23
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Huh?

It kind of goes like this






On a different note. I called ups to hold my packages since I wasn't going to be home. They confirmed so I went to pick up the subs and amp and the ding dongs only held the subs and tried to delivery the amp.

Now I have to make a second trip back to the ups facility
As Long as you are wiring them for 1ohm impedance, then you should be fine. Otherwise, you would likely burn up your amp. That was my point.

I'm just not sure that you can wire only a positive or negative wire on a voice coil, and have them to work properly. I saw this you tube video about wiring two 4 ohm subs to 1ohm, and he bridged them differently, using positive and negative on both coils.

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Old 01-17-2014, 11:01 PM   #24
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Your have got to be kidding me. You have no idea how ohms work in audio do you.

The subs present a 1ohm load to the amp so in turn the amp see's 1 1ohm sub. Just because a amp lists 1ohm does not mean it can't be used at 2,4 or 8 ohm. You do not design an amp just to be used at a specific rating.
Insults aside. I know that you can't wire 4ohm impedance to a 1ohm amp, unless you bridge the speakers properly. You can wire a 1ohm speaker to a 1ohm amp. If you don't bridge the speakers properly, you can burn up your amp. That was my point. Just trying to give helpful input. I am not perfect, I am not always right, and I am always looking to gain knowledge.

My Thunderform subwoofer box is 4ohm impedance. I wouldn't plug that into a 1ohm amp.

I think you are getting the wrong opinion of my input. I am just trying to be helpful and make sure you don't ruin your equipment. This is a discussion, isn't it?
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:21 PM   #25
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Insults aside. I know that you can't wire 4ohm impedance to a 1ohm amp, unless you bridge the speakers properly. You can wire a 1ohm speaker to a 1ohm amp. If you don't bridge the speakers properly, you can burn up your amp. That was my point. Just trying to give helpful input. I am not perfect, I am not always right, and I am always looking to gain knowledge.

My Thunderform subwoofer box is 4ohm impedance. I wouldn't plug that into a 1ohm amp.

I think you are getting the wrong opinion of my input. I am just trying to be helpful and make sure you don't ruin your equipment. This is a discussion, isn't it?
What you are saying is 100% wrong. All you are doing is miss informing others, not discussing a topic with credible information. This is not the first time you have done this.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:57 AM   #26
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I know that you can't wire 4ohm impedance to a 1ohm amp,
Sure you can

For example the amp I just got

4 ohms: 850 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 1700 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 2400 watts x 1 chan.

You can ALWAYS add MORE ohms. You run into problems with amps when you try to use below the impedance they are rated for. Like if I tried to hook a .5 ohm load to this amp it wouldnt work
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:57 AM   #27
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Insults aside. I know that you can't wire 4ohm impedance to a 1ohm amp, unless you bridge the speakers properly. You can wire a 1ohm speaker to a 1ohm amp. If you don't bridge the speakers properly, you can burn up your amp. That was my point. Just trying to give helpful input. I am not perfect, I am not always right, and I am always looking to gain knowledge. My Thunderform subwoofer box is 4ohm impedance. I wouldn't plug that into a 1ohm amp. I think you are getting the wrong opinion of my input. I am just trying to be helpful and make sure you don't ruin your equipment. This is a discussion, isn't it?
.

Giving advice and even opinion is great and at times helpful but giving false information that us flat out wrong doesn't help anyone and causes more confusion.

You could wire your subs to 32 ohms and it wouldn't burn up a "1 ohm" amp. In fact it would put LESS stress on the amp at the same time DECREASE power output.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:05 PM   #28
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Sure you can

For example the amp I just got

4 ohms: 850 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 1700 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 2400 watts x 1 chan.

You can ALWAYS add MORE ohms. You run into problems with amps when you try to use below the impedance they are rated for. Like if I tried to hook a .5 ohm load to this amp it wouldnt work
I think you need to check your understanding of wattage. I doubt your amp puts out 850watts RMS. It is the RMS value that you will use for compatibility with your speakers. I had a amp that claimed 2500watts, but that number meant nothing, and my RMS value to the sub was 500watts.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:18 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I think you need to check your understanding of wattage. I doubt your amp puts out 850watts RMS. It is the RMS value that you will use for compatibility with your speakers. I had a amp that claimed 2500watts, but that number meant nothing, and my RMS value to the sub was 500watts.
That is the RMS rating

RMS Power @ 4 ohms 850 watts x 1 channels


RMS Power @ 2 ohms 1600 watts x 1 channels


RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channels



Hifonics BRX2400.1D Brutus 2400W RMS Class D Monoblock Amplifier

Each of my subs is rated for 1000rms which puts my amp right in the sweet spot for turning the gain down to prevent clipping


I have my amps and subs in my possession now (the hifonics box looks sweet) Now deciding on box/wiring

Wiring:
Probably going to do 1 main run of 1/0 with a 300amp fuse to a distro block to break it into 2x 1/0 lines. Since the hifonics uses external fuses ill add another inline 250amp fuse on one of the runs from the block.

Will use a second distro block to ground both amps with 1/0 wire.

Box:
Either sealed or ported and tuned to 35hz...still on the fence weather i want to buy one from the car audio shop by me or build one. I may consider buying one if they are built in-house and not pre-fabbed.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattk11 View Post
.

Giving advice and even opinion is great and at times helpful but giving false information that us flat out wrong doesn't help anyone and causes more confusion.

You could wire your subs to 32 ohms and it wouldn't burn up a "1 ohm" amp. In fact it would put LESS stress on the amp at the same time DECREASE power output.
I think you are misunderstanding my point. If you expect your amp to supply its RMS value, you have to match the ohms, period.

If your amp is stable at 2ohms@300wattsRMS, and you put a 4ohm load on it, you won't get 300watts.

Also, mix matching your ohms could cause heating problems.

Why Is My AMP Overheating? - Ask.com

An amplifier (AMP) can overheat due to various reasons. Mostly it is because of over use, if you are playing your music system too loud for long periods of time then your AMP is bound to overeat. Another reason could be the running the AMP at a wrong ohm rating. You need to know the rating of your AMP and make sure it is running on the recommended rating.

Amp cutting out/overheating? - Amplifiers - Car Audio, Video, & GPS - Crutchfield Forums

Your sub is a DVC-4-ohm model. If you have the VC's wire in parallel, which it sounds like you do - the amp is seeing a 2-ohm load, which it is not stable at - and that is why it is overheating.

Get my point now?

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