I have been wiring up a homemade (custom) OBA system and am almost there, just a few last connections to make it function like I want. I have tested the system as it sits but I am adding a switch and lighted mechanical gauge and am not sure how to do it.
The diagram I attached will help but I will kinda plain english spell it out. I am using a ground controlled relay set-up. The system has a pressure sensor at the tank, and will have a switch in the cab, next to a gauge that not only lights up, but has a 7 color changeable dial and dimming feature.
In my diagram I was going to place the switch in the "harness" (I use the term loosely here. lol) between the pressure switch and the relay.
what has me screwed up is I had advice to run a ground relay instead of a powered relay (not sure if I am using the right terminology there). but in doing so I loose all functionality of the dual lighted switch, and color memory function of the gauge. I THINK...
Heres what I would like the system to do.
1) In cab switch controls the overall function of the system. Switch is off, no compressor function, switch is on, compressor functions until pressure switch opens.
2) The Switch has two LED's, one top and one on bottom. Top LED illuminates ON with the headlamps for night time light up, bottom LED illuminates ON when switch is thrown and system is actively running compressor. I'm a bit sketchy about this part, I am not sure if the LED will stay ON no matter what the compressor is doing, because the switch is on, or if while the switch is in the ON position the LED will go on and off based off of the position of the pressure switch at the tank. The switch info also says it has five terminals, each LED is independently grounded. Its from OTRATTW
. Here's what I got from the website. The switch is enroute but I want to run the wires now, and I am waiting on a email back about what each terminal does on the switch. I labeled them 1-5 for now, assuming 1-2 are upper LED, 4-5 are lower LED, and 3 is ?????
Product ID: V1D1GHCB-PZCAC-A
Manufacturer: Carling Technologies
V-series Contura V sealed rocker switch, AIR COMPRESSOR
V1D1FTHB- SPST OFF/ON - Independently wired upper super bright red LED. Green lower LED is ON when the switch is turned ON. Each LED has it's own ground terminal. Five terminal switch with no plastic barriers.
3) In cab gauge is mechanical so only issue is with illumination. It needs 12V+ constant to retain the memory of what color you like the gauge face, it needs 12V+ HOT ON KEY, to illuminate the face, and 12V+ HOT ON WITH HEADLIGHTS to dim the face 50% for night time driving.
Should this gauge be wired into the switch at all?
Should I put the 12V+ HOT ON KEY from the gauge inline with the switches top illumination ON with headlights. Basically making the gauges HOT ON KEY actually HOT ON headlight from the switch. So it only lights up when the headlights are on, along with the switch. OR do I omit the HOT ON KEY from the gauge and just hook up the HOT ON HEADLIGHT inline with the HOT ON HEADLIGHT going to the switch, would that make it only light up with the headlights. From a quick test last night, I don't think it will light up without the 12v+ KEY hooked up, even if you hook up 12V+ HEADLIGHT, not sure how the dimming feature works because the circuitry is internal. I don't know that I want it on all the time while driving but will take what I can get suggestion wise. Illuminated at night with headlights would be ok.
How do I ever wire all of this so everything functions like it should, when I am only in essence breaking the connection with the ground to the relay with the switch. Do I need to move the switch over to the 12V+ side? Won't I in essence have to rewire my whole relay then since it was a ground side relay. Do I just need to add an relay on the power side to control the illumination aspect of it?
It was also suggested to make the system 12V+ HOT ON KEY from the battery, instead of CONSTANT like it is now to eliminate the chance of a dead battery because the switch was left on when the jeep was parked over night. I am not concerned about that problem but can change it if it helps the situation as a whole. Oh, and I guess i need to throw a 20A inline fuse going to the compressor before it tee's off to the relay?
I know I sporadically asked a ton of questions through out this whole post, sorry about that...
AND....I truly appreciate any advice you can give me....short of saying start over from scratch because I'll just throw it in the dumpster!! all connections are cut to length, soldered, heat shrinked, have terminal ends, inside wire loom and zip tied except for the wires still to be run to the switch and gauge. And I aint doing that all over again!