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Old 05-12-2014, 12:09 AM   #1
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Amp and subs match ups

Hey, I'm new to this forum and new to speakers. I have a 98 TJ and the previous owner had subs in the back of the jeep (trunk area). He took out the subs but left all the wiring in the jeep. I recently bought two 10" kicker subs in a box custom made to fit in the trunk. They are down firing and I have an issue. I have absolutely no idea what amp I need for them. I'm not tech savvy when it comes to subs or speakers so if anyone could help or give their two cents, it is more than welcomed.

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Old 05-12-2014, 05:45 AM   #2
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You'll need to know what ohm the subs are and if they're dual or single voice coil. Then you can match an amp to that.

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Old 05-12-2014, 08:28 AM   #3
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You'll need to know what ohm the subs are and if they're dual or single voice coil. Then you can match an amp to that.
How do I go about doing that?
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:35 AM   #4
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How do I go about doing that?
Did you buy them new? A link to the model would help, or if you don't have that you could remove one of the subs from the box and look on the back of the magnet and there should be model information along with usually ohm rating and power handling info.
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:56 AM   #5
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Did you buy them new? A link to the model would help, or if you don't have that you could remove one of the subs from the box and look on the back of the magnet and there should be model information along with usually ohm rating and power handling info.
I bought them boxed off eBay brand new like over the summer last year and haven't bought an amp for them, but where the subs down fire there are two ports for cables to connect.. Picture below

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Old 05-12-2014, 09:06 AM   #6
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Your best bet then would be to just pull one of them out and see what is on the back. Just remove the 8 screws from the front and it should pop right out. They may need some prying depending on what they used to seal them.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:27 AM   #7
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Your best bet then would be to just pull one of them out and see what is on the back. Just remove the 8 screws from the front and it should pop right out. They may need some prying depending on what they used to seal them.
Alright, I'll do that later today and let you know if you still care to help me, haha. But, I'm at school right now.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:37 AM   #8
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:41 AM   #9
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Yeah, that's the exact one..
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:45 AM   #10
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These are the specs for each of the subs
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:33 AM   #11
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Crutchfield says that it is compatible with just about any amp.. how true is that? I want to be able to have the bass control in the dash if possible and have the best quality I can get for the cheapest price.. I don't want to spend more than $200 on an amp.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:23 PM   #12
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As long as the wattage matches it will work. If you're looking for a kicker amp to match the subs check out the zx3001. Puts out 300w rms at two ohms which is what you would be running two single coil 4 ohm subs at
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:41 PM   #13
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As long as the wattage matches it will work. If you're looking for a kicker amp to match the subs check out the zx3001. Puts out 300w rms at two ohms which is what you would be running two single coil 4 ohm subs at
That would be a good choice. What you want to look for would be either a 2ch amp that is rated at ~150w a channel @ 4 ohm and connect each sub to it's own channel, or like the kicker amp above, look for a mono amp that outputs ~300w x1 at 2 ohms and then wire the subs in parallel to the amp. Here is another kicker that would be a good match
Kicker 12CX300.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:42 PM   #14
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As long as the wattage matches it will work. If you're looking for a kicker amp to match the subs check out the zx3001. Puts out 300w rms at two ohms which is what you would be running two single coil 4 ohm subs at
I tried to look for one but all sites are saying that it's "discontinued"
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:50 PM   #15
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I'm not going to be doing the wiring, I may end up taking it to someone or a place for them to wire. Can you explain "parallel" in terms of wiring and hooking them up? I have no knowledge about speakers or subs.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:19 PM   #16
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I'm not going to be doing the wiring, I may end up taking it to someone or a place for them to wire. Can you explain "parallel" in terms of wiring and hooking them up? I have no knowledge about speakers or subs.
I don't believe that you have to worry about the wiring of it. Especially since you are going to hopefully take it to a professional installer. I would worry more about your speaker power being only 22wattsRMS, with a 300wattRMS subwoofer.
But, if you want a little background about the wiring, try this link.

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, Two 2 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speakers

Still, I would look for a 5channel amp, instead of a mono or 2channel amp. And, then you will have the ready power when you realize that your speakers are underpowered. It is a cost waste to buy a 2channel or mono channel amp, then decide that you need another amp for your speakers too. Or, if you later decide to get a 5channel amp and have wasted the cost of the other amp.

Of course, you never said if your speakers are already amplified either. Just something to think about. As space in a Wrangler is so limited. Which is another good reason to have just one amp to do it all.

I actually have a 97 Wrangler and I have a trunk 2-10" subbox, with a 5 Channel amp(Alpine PDX-V9). I have amped my speakers and powered the subbox with it. There are cheaper 5channel amps, but with all amps, heat is a concern. This is why I went with the more expensive Alpine amp, after trying a cheaper 5Channel version. Plus, with the JL or Alpine 5 Channel versions, they will run cooler and can be mounted under the dash, and just be one amp to power everything.

Of course you can just turn down the subwoofer and just live with the lack of speaker power. But, I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:41 PM   #17
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I'm not going to be doing the wiring, I may end up taking it to someone or a place for them to wire. Can you explain "parallel" in terms of wiring and hooking them up? I have no knowledge about speakers or subs.
I won't go into the details as the link Chas posted explains it pretty well. When wiring multiple speakers they can be wired directly to each channel, or they could be wired in parallel to one to another or in series with each other. It basically allows you to manipulate the load presented to the amp. For example, 2 4 ohm subs wired in parallel would be a 2 ohm load, whereas 2 4 ohm subs wired in series would present an 8 ohm load. This determines how much power the amp will put out into a specific ohm load. This is why you see amps rated at say 100w @ 4 ohm / 200w @ 2 ohm.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:55 PM   #18
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In addition to what Cicatriz said, and it is mostly accurate, although some of the newer amps seem to add internal capacitors to decrease the difference in power output for different ohms. For example, the Alpine PDX-V9 claims to deliver the same power whether 2ohms or 4ohms. So, I would pay close attention to the ohm factor when buying an amp. Some of the older amps may have great differences, as Cicatriz illustrated, in the ohm rating vs. power delivered.

Planning and proper matching is crucial. As myself and other have mentioned that they had to spend more money getting it completely right, after making the initial investment.

For example, I overlooked my speaker ratings and forgot about the difference between Peak and RMS value. So, I had to change my speakers again. It wasn't only my fault as the shop admitted that they were wrong to sell me those speakers for my system(2ohm Infinity Kappa).

Then, my amp was getting too hot. So, I changed my amp, from a cheap amp, to an more expensive Alpine. Then, I realized that the problem wasn't the cheap amp, and it was in my "professionally" wired system. So, I ripped out all that "professional" wiring and rewired everything. Then, my amp ran much cooler and didn't overheat.

So, it might be a good idea to understand the wiring, in case you have to fix everything after these fast "professional" installers finish with the basic installation. I took my system back to them like 5 times, until I figured out what was wrong myself and fixed it.
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:35 AM   #19
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:57 AM   #20
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SSL - Psy1600.2 1,600-Watt Psyclone Series 2-Channel Mosfet Amp w/ Remote Sub Level Control on best buy

this one is 2 x 150 @ 4 ohms which is what Cicatriz recommended
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:01 AM   #21
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http://www.bestbuy.com/site/spl-audio-gorilla-car-amplifier-900-w-pmpo-2-channel-class-ab/1308285724.p?id=mp1308285724&skuId=1308285724&st=c ategoryid$abcat0302002&cp=6&lp=13#tab=buyingOption s

I'm sorry if this is just annoying to the feed but these are amps that I'm finding that fit some of the recommendations and want you feed back on which has the best quality
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:25 AM   #22
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Of those you listed the Rockford would be a good choice. I have not heard of the other ones so I can't really give any advice but I would not even consider anything that does not provide RMS specs. This is not an area to cheap out on either. If you find an amp claiming to put out 1000w and it costs $50 I can guarantee you it's not putting out anywhere near that. You get what you pay for. I would stick to well known brands like Alpine, Rockford, Kicker, JL, etc. You may pay slightly more but you'll get much better quality with specs that will at least meet and usually exceed the rated output.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:48 AM   #23
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Of those you listed the Rockford would be a good choice. I have not heard of the other ones so I can't really give any advice but I would not even consider anything that does not provide RMS specs. This is not an area to cheap out on either. If you find an amp claiming to put out 1000w and it costs $50 I can guarantee you it's not putting out anywhere near that. You get what you pay for. I would stick to well known brands like Alpine, Rockford, Kicker, JL, etc. You may pay slightly more but you'll get much better quality with specs that will at least meet and usually exceed the rated output.
Should I go with a monoblock amp or 2 channel? I don't think I need or really want the 5 channel because that's too much money for me to pay. I like the idea of a 2 channel because I feel like that would give me more flexibility.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:11 AM   #24
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Only problem with that Rockford is it's only rated to 150w at 4 ohm. And either the mono or two channel will be just fine. Whichever you prefer, really.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:24 AM   #25
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Only problem with that Rockford is it's only rated to 150w at 4 ohm. And either the mono or two channel will be just fine. Whichever you prefer, really.
The Rockford is also 300w x1 @ 2ohm which is what his subs would be if wired in parallel. As said either a mono or 2ch will work fine, you may find it easier to find a 300w mono amp though.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:49 AM   #26
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The Rockford is also 300w x1 @ 2ohm which is what his subs would be if wired in parallel. As said either a mono or 2ch will work fine, you may find it easier to find a 300w mono amp though.
Ah sorry you are right. Guess I should wake up a bit before I start posting.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:37 AM   #27
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I found a kicker CX series 300W class D mono amp for 150 from bestbuy. 👍?👎?
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:40 AM   #28
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I also found a Rockford Fosgate P300
150 W x 1 @ 4 ohms
300 W x 1 @ 2 ohms
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:54 AM   #29
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Again the Rockford would be the best out of all the ones you've listed. I've heard good things about them and they're known for making decent stuff.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:57 AM   #30
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Again the Rockford would be the best out of all the ones you've listed. I've heard good things about them and they're known for making decent stuff.
This. Either one of them will be fine, personally I would go for the Rockford over the Kicker.

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