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Old 10-28-2011, 03:48 PM   #1
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DIY Killswitch



thanks to Jkaufman_95 for the original! here is how to do it

what youll need:
crimping tool
4 female flat wire adapters (can be bought at walmart)
2 male flat wire adapters (also at walmart)
16gauge wire
and a switch of your liking.

post if you have questions

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Old 10-28-2011, 03:49 PM   #2
Dont forget a Jack strap

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It's _95 but close enough

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Old 10-28-2011, 03:52 PM   #3
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....what are you talking about lol
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:21 PM   #4
Dont forget a Jack strap

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Lol okayy
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:24 AM   #5
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No, no we're not good to go... do not call it a car dammit!!!! lol
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s3nt3nc3d
No, no we're not good to go... do not call it a car dammit!!!! lol
And there goes another kitten....
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:31 AM   #7
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alright. everyone keeps getting on me for calling it a car.


sorry i call everything a car
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:47 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by College_fishman View Post
alright. everyone keeps getting on me for calling it a car.


sorry i call everything a car
M-O-O-N. that spells car... laws yes...
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:18 PM   #9
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May I make a couple of comments on this install?
1) your connections are not sealed and will most likely become corroded at some point and cause a bad connection.
2) If you wanted those crimped connections to be better, you should solder them to keep moisture from traveling up the the wire strands. They also make crimp connectors that have a heat shrink casing that will make a better seal around the wire at the crimp area.
3) the wiring should actually come out lower instead of the upper section of the fuse box, any good thief would see this and be able to bypass it quickly.
4) spend a couple dollars on some split loom tubing for the wiring to go into and look a little factory.
5) What is the amperage of that fuse? most toggle switches will handle 10amps and are usually wired in line to a relay.
6) that slit in the rubber grommet is not a true seal and water will travel down the wire and into the cab. May not flood the cab but it will leak. If you wanted a better seal, put a little silicone on the inside of the grommet. this will help.

not trying to be a smart ass, but with over 30 years of automotive electrical experience, this could be better and safer.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:06 PM   #10
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Lol, all of that work could be avoided entirely by adding the switch to the existing wiring inside the cab... One cut, two soldered female spades, a switch, and the weatherproofing is a moot point .

There's plenty of lines under the dash that a vehicle won't start or run without...
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:38 AM   #11
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That is a very true statement and I was thinking the same thing. However I thought I would just stay with what he had already done.




Quote:
Originally Posted by aelwero View Post
Lol, all of that work could be avoided entirely by adding the switch to the existing wiring inside the cab... One cut, two soldered female spades, a switch, and the weatherproofing is a moot point .

There's plenty of lines under the dash that a vehicle won't start or run without...

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