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Old 04-14-2014, 02:17 PM   #1
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Help with Audio options on a mild stereo upgrade

Just got a 2014 2d with the base uconnect 130 + sirius. I would like to keep my uconnect features/button, steering wheel buttons and sirius subscription (1 year free with the jeep).

I bought Polk DB651s for the sound bar and front. I put the soundbar speakers in, and am waiting to install the fronts incase I end up putting something additional in while the dash is taken apart. So far, the Polks with the stocks in front don't sound right. muddy, lose base when turned up in unison with the other stock speakers. Plus they were significanly lower in volume (I assume since they are 4 ohm speakers being power by 2 ohms?). so I faded more volume to the back. If I have just those speakers playing, they sound okay, but nothing special.

Now I'm not looking to have a head turning stereo set up, but would like my music to sound significantly better than stock.

If I put the fronts in, so all 4 6.5" speakers are DB651s's will it sound better?

If I am not planning on a sub, would replacing the 130 with an aftermarket HU provide more power, or do I need to add a new amp too? I would be happy with adding the DB651s's and a new head unit (+ harness to keep steering controls) if it makes a huge improvement without dealing with an amp and rewiring a ton of stuff.

I really don't want to replace the 130 HU if I lose stering functions or my 1yr sirius subscription. I know there are harnesses that can retain some of the buttons.

Also, I'm not super familiar with car audio, but I feel I can handle a simple job.

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Old 04-14-2014, 02:31 PM   #2
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subscribed. I have the DB651 for the soundbar and DB651s for the dash on order. I figure I may have to get a 4 channel amp to drive them, but I have no clue on which one I should get or how I'd wire it up without burning my jeep to the ground

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Old 04-14-2014, 02:36 PM   #3
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subscribed. I have the DB651 for the soundbar and DB651s for the dash on order. I figure I may have to get a 4 channel amp to drive them, but I have no clue on which one I should get or how I'd wire it up without burning my jeep to the ground
I'm with you, I'd be happy with an amp to make things sound better without replacing the stock 130 head unit. Just don't know anything about how to do it, and doesnt seem like a very easy plug and play install.

BTW, whats your opinion on the 651s in the soundbar with stock head unit and stock fronts?
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:46 PM   #4
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I have not installed them yet: I ordered the 651 through amazon and tried to return them b/c I wanted the flush-mounted 651s... amazon could not figure out how to print me a return label b/c they were rated "hazardous" so they just credited my card and let me keep them! So I ordered the 651s from crutchfield and they will come in tomorrow. I was told I should upgrade both the sb and fronts at the same time.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:47 PM   #5
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Just chatted with crutchfield (does WF get a discount from them?) about the amp selection and their advice:

Mike
3:41:11 p.m.Hi, I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler 4 door and have ordered the Polk DB651 for the soundbar and DB651s for the dash. I am considering getting an amp to drive them: what would you reccomend? I am looking at the Alpine MRP-F300 or Alpine MRV-F300 but have no knowledge of car amps.
CJ
3:42:49 p.m.The Alpine MRV-F300 is basically the newer version of the MRP-F300.
3:43:00 p.m.he MRP-F300 is on close out and so the price is quite a bit cheaper.
3:44:02 p.m.There aren't really any significant differences. I'd go with the MRP-F300 and save some cash. Its a a great option for the Polk speakers.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:57 PM   #6
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How difficult is that to install? Sounds like a good option to get a little extra out of the stock unit.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:59 PM   #7
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^ You stole my question I have no idea - I'm hoping someone else can chime in here.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:13 PM   #8
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Here's a link to the manual. ...I've never done a car stereo install, so it looks a little daunting to me. Why don't you do the install and upload the instructions on youtube

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...500MRPF300.PDF
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:23 PM   #9
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I've read that someone made a hardness to connect the amp without cutting stock harness wires.. anyone have any experience with this?
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:15 PM   #10
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Polk 651's in the front, can be a problem if you have the separated tweeters in front, because those speakers, Polk 651's, are coaxial speakers. So, you will have two tweeters in the front, and the crossovers for two front tweeters can be a mess. So, if you want to keep the functionality, of the stock system, and you have the separated tweeters, you will want the Polk DB6501's, component speakers, in the front.

Your stock front speakers are 2ohm's and they are going to have less resistance than the Polk 4ohm speakers. This is why the front stock speakers sound louder. I really don't like mixing 2ohm and 4ohm speakers anyway. It kind of throws the sound off, and I'm not sure how the stereo will handle mixed ohm speakers, front and back.

It's probably best to use the same ohm speakers all around, and this is probably why it was recommended to do the front and back at the same time.

For the amp, you will need a LOC(Line Out Converter) for the amp, because your HU doesn't have RCA's for the amp. You can talk to Crutchfield about that, and maybe they have another solution. There are different LOC's too, depending on whether you want to Keep your fader functions.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:04 PM   #11
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Would disconnecting the tweeters fix the problem, or would it be a wiring issue?
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:38 PM   #12
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Would disconnecting the tweeters fix the problem, or would it be a wiring issue?
Good question. I would say that it depends. It depends on whether Jeep used a crossover for the tweeters and the midrange, which they probably did. So, if you disconnect the tweeters, you won't have highs going to your coaxials. And, your coaxial tweeters will probably sound horrible. For this reason, I would just get the components. You could try disconnecting the wiring to the tweeters, and wire them to the coaxial crossovers. But, that is more of a hack, and I don't personally like, or recommend hacks.

If you could find the Jeep crossovers, you could wire the coasxial speakers before the crossovers, using any crossovers built into the coaxial speakers, if they have them. Again, its another hack. Which I don't recommend.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:00 PM   #13
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You can make a harness out of the Metra 71-6522 and 70-6522 to keep from cutting the stock wiring. The 70-6522 was short 2 wires and I had to purchase an extra 70-6522 for 2 wires and pins.
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:11 PM   #14
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You can make a harness out of the Metra 71-6522 and 70-6522 to keep from cutting the stock wiring. The 70-6522 was short 2 wires and I had to purchase an extra 70-6522 for 2 wires and pins.
Can you elaborate? are you referring to hooking up an amp? I have 0 experience with car audio other than swapping speaker. If I make this harness, how is it used?
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:17 PM   #15
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Good question. I would say that it depends. It depends on whether Jeep used a crossover for the tweeters and the midrange, which they probably did. So, if you disconnect the tweeters, you won't have highs going to your coaxials. And, your coaxial tweeters will probably sound horrible. For this reason, I would just get the components. You could try disconnecting the wiring to the tweeters, and wire them to the coaxial crossovers. But, that is more of a hack, and I don't personally like, or recommend hacks.

If you could find the Jeep crossovers, you could wire the coasxial speakers before the crossovers, using any crossovers built into the coaxial speakers, if they have them. Again, its another hack. Which I don't recommend.
If I bought this would I need to use the included crossover, or just swap the tweeters and woofer? or will the factory crossover work?
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:08 PM   #16
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If I bought this would I need to use the included crossover, or just swap the tweeters and woofer? or will the factory crossover work?
Excellent choice. The factory crossovers should work fine. I would still consider a real subwoofer to handle the bass. A subwoofer will handle the bass much better than the mid range Polk speakers.
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:08 AM   #17
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I will let others chime in here has they have done it but if I am not mistaken Jeep considers the base system still a 6 speaker system. Either out of the H/U or the amp you have a twisted pair of wires for each speaker, there is no conventional crossover as most of us understand it. A new head unit will provide cleaner sound and depending on the unit there is no reason to lose any functionality. Also if you get a unit that has RCA jacks out you leave yourself with an easy upgrade path if you want to add an amp and sub.
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Old 04-15-2014, 06:28 AM   #18
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On the 2013 base radio there are 4 pairs out of the HU. The tweeters are connected to each front speaker pair and a capacitor is on each tweeter to filter out the lower freq.
I believe the Alpine MRP-F300 amp has speaker level inputs in addition to the RCA jacks. So a LOC would not have to be used unless you wanted to.
The wiring harness I made goes between the HU and the stock plug that goes into the head unit. Then the speaker and/or amp connections are made with the harness wires. A harness is not needed but I didn't want to cut into the stock wiring.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:29 AM   #19
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Alright, now I'm confused... so the stock tweeters are connected to the front speakers and not the head unit? So if I remove the front speakers, replace them with the DB651s's and leave the stock tweeters unplugged, I'll be golden? I'd rather not send back the DB651s's for the front if I don't have to.

If I get a new head unit, I understand there are harnesses that retain hand controls, but what about my 1 year of free sirius, will that transfer over to another HU?

What ever is easiest to install without costing a shit load will be what I do. I'm not a bass whore, so I don't need a sub... just some speakers that give a good crisp sound with tight base.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:19 AM   #20
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Mine is a 2013 and I don't know if a 2014 is different but if not you should be able to just disconnect the stock tweeters and install the coaxials. The tweeters in the Polks should be better than stock. They will be in a lower position than the stock location and I don't know how that would compare to using component tweeters in the stock location.
I did try new infinity speakers without an amp first but it sounds a lot better with an amp. I used the KTP445U amp and it works fine for me. The MRP-F300 should be fine.
As far as bass I'm ok with my setup without a sub. Chas is right that a sub will make it sound better though.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:46 AM   #21
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Mine is a 2013 and I don't know if a 2014 is different but if not you should be able to just disconnect the stock tweeters and install the coaxials. The tweeters in the Polks should be better than stock. They will be in a lower position than the stock location and I don't know how that would compare to using component tweeters in the stock location.
I did try new infinity speakers without an amp first but it sounds a lot better with an amp. I used the KTP445U amp and it works fine for me. The MRP-F300 should be fine.
As far as bass I'm ok with my setup without a sub. Chas is right that a sub will make it sound better though.
KTP445U vs MRP-F300: it appears the KTP445U is much smaller ...can it be mounted in the dash? What would be a reasonable cost to have a professional install the amp if I chicken out?
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:12 AM   #22
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I made a tray and mounted mine under the steering wheel.
I have no idea what a professional install would cost.
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:22 AM   #23
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Mine is a 2013 and I don't know if a 2014 is different but if not you should be able to just disconnect the stock tweeters and install the coaxials. The tweeters in the Polks should be better than stock. They will be in a lower position than the stock location and I don't know how that would compare to using component tweeters in the stock location.
Still not sure how the stock tweeters are wired... if I unplug the stock 6.5 speakers in the dash, would that that ultimately disconnect the stock tweeters or do I need to mod the wiring so the now Coaxial speakers are hooked up right? Im fine with the stock tombstone tweeters being dead.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:08 PM   #24
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Just unplugging the stock woofers does not disable the stock tweeters because the tweeter wires connect to the woofer wires between the woofer and HU. Hope that makes sense.
Should be able just to disconnect the wires (at least one) where they plug onto the tweeters. Tape the ends so they don't short on anything.
Disconnect the wires from the stock woofers, connect a speaker adapter (or cut the wire and solder or crimp the proper connector for the new speakers) and connect to your new woofer.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:35 PM   #25
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Just unplugging the stock woofers does not disable the stock tweeters because the tweeter wires connect to the woofer wires between the woofer and HU. Hope that makes sense.
Should be able just to disconnect the wires (at least one) where they plug onto the tweeters. Tape the ends so they don't short on anything.
Disconnect the wires from the stock woofers, connect a speaker adapter (or cut the wire and solder or crimp the proper connector for the new speakers) and connect to your new woofer.
Gotcha. I ordred my DB651s's from crutchfield so they came with the adapter. I will open up the dash and see whats doing tonight. Since I already have the Coaxials, I will give them a shot. Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:53 PM   #26
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Just unplugging the stock woofers does not disable the stock tweeters because the tweeter wires connect to the woofer wires between the woofer and HU. Hope that makes sense.
Should be able just to disconnect the wires (at least one) where they plug onto the tweeters. Tape the ends so they don't short on anything.
Disconnect the wires from the stock woofers, connect a speaker adapter (or cut the wire and solder or crimp the proper connector for the new speakers) and connect to your new woofer.
As I will be installing my polks tonight as well:is it necessary to disconnect the stock tombstone tweeters when using coaxials up front? or can I just leave them connected and use them with my front coaxials? I ask b/c they are 2ohm and now I'll have 4 new speakers that are 4ohm. not sure if the tweeters would just distort or blow.?. Thanks
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:54 PM   #27
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Pop the tweeter out and disconnect.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:28 PM   #28
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Pop the tweeter out and disconnect.
Let me get this right, there is no crossover for the stock front tweeters and kicker, so just leaving the tweeters wire capped off (unconnected) will still allow the right frequencies to the after market Coaxials, thus giving the right 'juice' to both parts of the DB651s. I
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:39 PM   #29
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Is that why folks recommend the components in front...b/c the included tweeters are also 4ohm? does this also mean that you CANNOT run both the tweeters and coaxials at the same time?
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:41 PM   #30
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Is that why folks recommend the components in front...b/c the included tweeters are also 4ohm? does this also mean that you CANNOT run both the tweeters and coaxials at the same time?
Thats what I understand. Im just going to put the DB651s I alread have in the front and just unplug the tweeters since the 651s already has a tweeter.

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