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Old 06-05-2013, 06:31 PM   #1
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Line level coverter

Hey to all the electronics guru's on this forum.I would like to do a simple line level style converter just to run my sub amp and downfire sub box i took out of my ford flex before trading it in for my deep cherry freedom unlimited.If i do indeed go this route ,am i better off tapping the speakers from the overhead sound bar ...or from back of h u ?....Other option i have is the amp i plan on using is a boston acoustics gta 400 m mono amp which also does hi level inputs right at amp.........Also want to continue using the alpine sub ,in its stock configuration....for the days i may need to remove the custom box for cargo....crates caskets bodies ....well u know
thanks in advance ...jimmy

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Old 06-07-2013, 09:27 AM   #2
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You dont need an LOC if you are tapping into the rear sound bar speakers to provide the channel for the sub. Unless of course the amp you are plugging into only takes RCA. If thats the case, then any cheap LOC will work as its a single channel. That amp (GTA400m) does have it seems a wire harness plugin that takes speaker level inputs... so no need for the LOC is you go with that.

If you already have the stock alpine sub(premium system), you wouldnt touch those wires at all. The stock sub is a dual voice coil sub and the amp is driving it specifically. If you splice into it, you will be screwing up the resistance and could overload the sub or the amp.

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Old 06-07-2013, 10:13 AM   #3
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thanks man........exactly the way i read into it also .This gives me the ability to still have "subpar" subwoofer ,if i need to take my box out for any reason ,plan is to mount amp under passenger side rear seat ...keep all out of site ..for the most part ....by chance does anyone know the wire out of harness on factory 130 w /siruis ...that is the dedicated remote turn on ....thanks
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #4
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there isnt really one... its canbus controlled. You can hook into any 12v switched though for the remote turn on.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:42 AM   #5
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i was assuming that ....but hey others have tested this all before me ....trial and error....and learn from thier experiance
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:43 PM   #6
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The rear sound bar channels are significantly cut down in power from the front channels. My advice is to tap the front channels. Jeep cut the sound bar channels so that the speakers wouldn't rattle. Fade it all the way to the front than the rear and you'll hear it.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by CoreyZ View Post
You dont need an LOC if you are tapping into the rear sound bar speakers to provide the channel for the sub. Unless of course the amp you are plugging into only takes RCA. If thats the case, then any cheap LOC will work as its a single channel. That amp (GTA400m) does have it seems a wire harness plugin that takes speaker level inputs... so no need for the LOC is you go with that.

If you already have the stock alpine sub(premium system), you wouldnt touch those wires at all. The stock sub is a dual voice coil sub and the amp is driving it specifically. If you splice into it, you will be screwing up the resistance and could overload the sub or the amp.
Not true. Feel free to splice there.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:07 PM   #8
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Not true. Feel free to splice there.
Now if you were to replace the stock sub entirely, then yes... feel free to splice into it. However OP stated he is keeping his stock sub in place (and functioning) which means that in order to maintain the stock power to both coils... he would need to leave it intact.

Let me clarify more... (I shouldnt have used the resistance because wiring it correctly keeps the resistance the same when splicing and not wiring in parallel or series)...

By keeping the stock sub working as stock (which is already a low power dual voice coil sub), taking and seperating the power into 2 subs.. the already weak power to the one voice coil that you are splicing into gets halved when all you needed was signal. THen you have a full power voice coil, half power voice coil on an already underpowered system... will spell issues with it. Granted it wont be the firey explosion but it sure as hell wont be as good as splicing anywhere else in the system.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:07 PM   #9
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The rear sound bar channels are significantly cut down in power from the front channels. My advice is to tap the front channels. Jeep cut the sound bar channels so that the speakers wouldn't rattle. Fade it all the way to the front than the rear and you'll hear it.
Good point... I keep forgetting that about the stock system since I replaced mine.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:16 PM   #10
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You're out of your mind...seriously. How is it that you believe that by splicing into the amp wiring, you are not changing the resistance of the coil in the stock sub??

Now if you were to replace the stock sub entirely, then yes... feel free to splice into it. However OP stated he is keeping his stock sub in place (and functioning) which means that in order to maintain the correct resistance of the voice coil in the stock sub, it cannot be spliced into.
Amplifier inputs are high impedance. It's equivalent to putting a tester across the terminals of the sub, which I'm sure you agree would have no affect.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:17 PM   #11
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Sorry... please re-read my edit
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:23 PM   #12
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Sorry... please re-read my edit
He's taping into it to get a signal for an amp, the amp doesn't draw any significant current from the input terminal.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:27 PM   #13
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High impedance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
In digital circuits, a high impedance (also known as hi-Z, tri-stated, or floating) output is not being driven to any defined logic level by the output circuit. The signal is neither driven to a logical high nor low level; this third condition leads to the description "tri-stated". Such a signal can be seen as an open circuit (or "floating" wire) because connecting it to a low impedance circuit will not affect that circuit; it will instead itself be pulled to the same voltage as the actively driven output.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:31 PM   #14
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bah... you're right. For some reason my mind kept recognizing the amp, but never putting it into the circuit and instead my "mental wires" were going from the splice to the new sub.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:33 PM   #15
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bah... you're right. For some reason my mind kept recognizing the amp, but never putting it into the circuit and instead my "mental wires" were going from the splice to the new sub.
It's cool, I'm an electrical engineer, I'm paid to know these things
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:45 PM   #16
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ok from the back n forth i now gather

the jeep system is true front stage /rear fill as far as set from factory

that being said front signal "tapping" is prefered source of input to new amp .
sooooo next ? is should i tap in at back of radio .....or after facory amplifaction......? if indeed at back of radio ,i know someone has put the facory harness schematic out there for all of us ...but now cannot friggin find it ....
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:43 PM   #17
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Tap in by the speaker. The amp is the only one that puts out the different channels. The radio only outputs one. So anywhere between the amp and the speaker works.

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