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Old 11-16-2010, 09:33 AM   #1
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New head unit/speakers... prep for Kicker Sub?..

I'm quoting from the sticky on head unit install writeup at the top of the page... was really helpful! But I am preparing to isntall an aftermarket sub/amp and since I've already done the head unit speakers, just had a few questions....

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawk_sixsix View Post
Exactly! That solved TWO problems. Let me explain.

.... I wrote technical manuals for a living, so GIGO instructions and errors are a particular sore spot with me. Folks, the complete answer is, "Connect the remote wire from the radio harness to the power antenna wire of the vehicle harness".

Now, a peculiar side effect was that the four speakers came alive like never before. If you look at the hokey way this thing is wired, the speaker signal is split between the speakers and the amp - my theory is that if the amp isn't turned on, half the circuit is open, and the speakers are getting half the wattage.

No 10" subs, no external amp; just a change of one wire. Sounds phenomenal. What a difference a few words and one wire make.
SO.... here's a question.
(first, I have a 2004 Wrangler)
Just got a new head unit (Alpine cda-105) front and soundbar Infinity reference speakers (4" and 5-1/4") and I am having a similar problem... The sound quality is much better, but the speakers sound a little weak, noticeably so from stock. much clearer quality but def weaker. Also the highs sound great but the lows are a little lackluster but I mean that's to be expected from 5-1/4" speakers so I'm not too worried.

HOWEVER... I will be adding a kicker solobaric L7 10" subwoofer and a 500-watt Kicker amp later this week when it arrives....

My factory console-sub has never worked for me with the factory radio installed. It still does not work with the new head-unit. I read that the factory sub(amp?) can actually be taking some of the power from the head unit even though sound isn't coming out... is that true?

My main question is this.... How would I bypass the factory sub(amp?) completely and which wire on the head unit am I connecting the remote wire from the Kicker amp to? I want to make sure the only real bass sound is coming from the sub, and my 4 and 5-1/4 are giving the highs.

I connected the blue wire from the Crutchfield Chrysler adapter to the blue/white Alpine adapter wire, (or was that Vice Versa...?) as advised by Crutchfield. Is this is what you were talking about doing in the quoted text above?

Ok.... that was long and confusing but I hope someone can help...

Thanks!

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Old 11-16-2010, 09:35 AM   #2
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The blue wire in the adapter harness does nothing....connect your remote turn on wire from your aftermarket amp to the blue/white wire on your headunit and rock on

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Old 11-16-2010, 09:45 AM   #3
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Gotchya.

Yeah thats what I'm saying, right now the blue/white on head unit is going to the blue (or blue white, can't remember) from the Jeep harness, Crutchfield told me the blue from Alpine does nothing, just use the blue/white.

So the blue/white from head unit is JUST for a sub? Has nothing to do with my front/soundbar speakers? If so... should I remove the blue that I spliced it to?

Sweet! That explains a lot! If I interpreted that right...
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:51 AM   #4
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Here's the breakdown in a nutshell....circa 1998 or so, all stereo manufacturers went to a standardized wiring colorcode. Solid blue is for power antenna (only applies power when on a radio station), blue with white tracer is amp turn on (has power as long as the radio is turned on)

Crutchfield is usually right about 50 percent of the time...this time they are wrong, what they should have told you is that the blue wire from the Alpine won't do you any good in your jeep since you have no power antenna.

And the blue/white wire has nothing to do with your front or soundbar speakers if they are run off the radio power...if they are run off an external amp then it has everything to do with um
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
Here's the breakdown in a nutshell....circa 1998 or so, all stereo manufacturers went to a standardized wiring colorcode. Solid blue is for power antenna (only applies power when on a radio station), blue with white tracer is amp turn on (has power as long as the radio is turned on)

Crutchfield is usually right about 50 percent of the time...this time they are wrong, what they should have told you is that the blue wire from the Alpine won't do you any good in your jeep since you have no power antenna.

And the blue/white wire has nothing to do with your front or soundbar speakers if they are run off the radio power...if they are run off an external amp then it has everything to do with um
Awesome man! Thanks so much.

Yeah they were right when they said on the Alpine, the blue doesn't do anything and to use the blue/white. But yeah they had me use the blue/white even though I have no sub hooked up lol.

So I should just run the blue/white to the remote power for the amp when it arrives?

Thank you so much, you saved me here!
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:39 AM   #6
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Yup, exactly
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:43 AM   #7
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Killer! Been reading a good writeup of all the amp wiring... really looks simple, but like anythign else done for the first time, I'm sure I'll take twice as long to do it! haha

Thanks again man, you rock!
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:01 PM   #8
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don't go with the kicker set up, for the price of the kicker setup you can get a much better sub and amp.

for only getting 600 rms watts for $400 is just crazy. take a look at the ssa xcon sub

SSA Xcon 12" Sub woofer1750rms 31mm Xmax

and take a look at the Mb Quart DSC 2000.1d amp, it will be able to power the xcon with no problem

here is a vid for the sub

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Old 11-16-2010, 02:10 PM   #9
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Expensive sub considering they aren't in the top 20
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:06 PM   #10
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SSA is a small company that isn't rated with other companies, just like incriminator audio who has all hand made to order subs and the warden is their top end sub that will put any one of the main stream companies subs to shame.
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:52 AM   #11
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Thanks for the advice, I got my L7 10" in a truck box combo that fits perfectly behind the rear seat for 289 brand new. Amp was 213 bucks. All shipped to my door for 500 bucks.

In regards to the wattage, I have heard this exact same Kicker setup in a buddy's YJ and it's honestly almost too much bass for me, but at the price I got it for, I bit.

1750 watts RMS is just plain overkill for my ears, but that does look like a pretty serious setup for not much money. I'm sure it's right for some, but not for these wimpy ears! hehe

Thanks again.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jma20a View Post
SSA is a small company that isn't rated with other companies, just like incriminator audio who has all hand made to order subs and the warden is their top end sub that will put any one of the main stream companies subs to shame.
Maybe...but me being from the show me state...I'd have to say "show me" And while your at it, show me the warranty papers they stand behind. I dunno about everyone else, but if I paid 400 bucks for a speaker and it blew up...I wouldn't wanna wait for another one to be built. I want over the counter exchange baby!
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:24 PM   #13
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i had a small issue with a sub from IA and nick made everything work out, only went 2 weeks without a sub, and was able to save $100, it is by far the best customer service ever.
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:27 PM   #14
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Yeah that wouldn't work around here...I compete with 5 other stores and the only way I can keep customers is instore exchange. They bring me one that is screwed up and I give them another one the same day. These are the issues that consumers don't ever think about, but retailers deal with each and every day.
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Old 11-17-2010, 04:26 PM   #15
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i ordered my sub through an owner of a car audio company that is a dealer of IA on caraudio.com forum.

i understand how great it would be to just go into the local shop and do a quick swap. in my area there are only a few good shops to go to and they really don't compete with each other.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:10 PM   #16
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Everything went smoothly. Only even remote tricky part was finding a spot to run power wire from engine bay into Jeep cabin. Found a nice rubber grommet right on driver's side under dash that goes straight into firewall/engine bay. Cut a slit in it and run the power wire through. Perfect, you can only see a smidgen of light through the slit! Now the long wait until Monday when the sub/amp arrive! heheh



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Old 11-18-2010, 09:12 PM   #17
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when you run your rca cables run them down the passenger side.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
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when you run your rca cables run them down the passenger side.
I did indeed!
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:46 PM   #19
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Wow these hit plenty hard for my tunes! Thanks for the advice!

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