Here is a small write up on audio upgrade. I used to do audio when I was a teenager, dare i say 20 years ago. I had absolutely no confidence in my local area car audio dealers and did not want a hack job so I ended up doing all this over the course of 4 days. Sound is infinitely better than stock, but this amp does clip when turned up to 22, you can turn the bass down to eliminate this and turn the remote gain up on the sub to compensate.
4ga battery cable into cabin
I found some instructions on running power into the cab by removing the passenger side dash panel and poking the cable through some expandable foam. I tried this but I do not feel it is safe at all, when running the cable through the foam into the engine compartment/cowl it is surrounded by sheetmetal that can cut into insulation.
I removed the battery in an attempt to remove the battery tray to gain access to another location, removing the battery tray on a 2013 is difficult so scratch that. I discovered a hole when I removed the firewall insulation and this is the best way by far to run power into the cabin.
Hole discovered behind firewall insulation
Feed coat hanger into cabin to pull wire in
4awg power cable
4awg with wire loom for the stock look
Opted for a breaker instead of fuse
I opted to stick with the factory head unit to deter theft with the roof off, but installed all new speaker wire to all locations, dynamat the enclosures and stuffed with poly fill, new amp, sub, and inverter all under the front seats.
Kicker compact sub mounted on a custom plate from member jeepedjeep