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Old 08-26-2013, 09:19 AM   #1
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Powered Sub wiring question

Hi All,

I'm going to install a powered sub (Sound Ordnance B-8PTD) in my 2013 Rubicon (with Alpine system). I'm going to splice into the speaker wiring for the factory sub, using a line converter to get RCA outputs. I know this won't give me major bass, but it'll work for my needs.

The powered sub has a connection for a Remote Turn-on Wire. The instructions say to wire it to the head unit's amplifier turn-on lead "or other switched 12-volt source." I'm not sure if the HU has a turn-on lead, and I want to avoid tearing my dash apart to find out. Can I connect this directly to one of the accessory fuses instead (connecting to the fuse box)? If so, which one? I see several options: M10 (15 amp "Ignition Off Draw"), M11 (10 amp "Ignition Off Draw"), M12 (30 amp "Amplifier"), or M13 (20 amp "Ignition Off Draw").

Or, is this wire optional? Can I trust the "auto power" mode that'll turn the amp on and off depending on whether it detects incoming sound signal? I don't want to risk draining my battery any time I'm parked.

Thanks for any help!

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Old 08-26-2013, 02:38 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ephilli2 View Post
Hi All,

I'm going to install a powered sub (Sound Ordnance B-8PTD) in my 2013 Rubicon (with Alpine system). I'm going to splice into the speaker wiring for the factory sub, using a line converter to get RCA outputs. I know this won't give me major bass, but it'll work for my needs.

The powered sub has a connection for a Remote Turn-on Wire. The instructions say to wire it to the head unit's amplifier turn-on lead "or other switched 12-volt source." I'm not sure if the HU has a turn-on lead, and I want to avoid tearing my dash apart to find out. Can I connect this directly to one of the accessory fuses instead (connecting to the fuse box)? If so, which one? I see several options: M10 (15 amp "Ignition Off Draw"), M11 (10 amp "Ignition Off Draw"), M12 (30 amp "Amplifier"), or M13 (20 amp "Ignition Off Draw").

Or, is this wire optional? Can I trust the "auto power" mode that'll turn the amp on and off depending on whether it detects incoming sound signal? I don't want to risk draining my battery any time I'm parked.

Thanks for any help!
It should be able to sense a signal and turn itself on and off. You don't need to run a wire from you head unit with most all in one add-on subs. But you will probably need to pull a power wire from the battery.

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Old 08-26-2013, 03:30 PM   #3
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It should be able to sense a signal and turn itself on and off. You don't need to run a wire from you head unit with most all in one add-on subs. But you will probably need to pull a power wire from the battery.
Thanks. I know about the main power wire -- I just want to make sure the amp turns off when the vehicle is off so I don't kill my battery. I'll give it a shot and see what happens.
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #4
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Usually with the powered subs if you're using the RCA inputs you'll also need the remote wire. Have you thought about just tapping into the speaker wire and using the high level inputs on the sub? Doing this shouldn't require the use of the remote wire. And if it's a stock HU it won't have a remote lead in the back.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by coastalwrangler View Post
Usually with the powered subs if you're using the RCA inputs you'll also need the remote wire. Have you thought about just tapping into the speaker wire and using the high level inputs on the sub? Doing this shouldn't require the use of the remote wire. And if it's a stock HU it won't have a remote lead in the back.
I've thought about this, but from what I've read, converting the signal to low-level RCA plugs will produce better sound. Do you think it'll even make a difference? If not, I'll just splice into the wires and connect to the high-level input of the amp...
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:09 PM   #6
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I've thought about this, but from what I've read, converting the signal to low-level RCA plugs will produce better sound. Do you think it'll even make a difference? If not, I'll just splice into the wires and connect to the high-level input of the amp...
Update -- I just called Crutchfield, who said that the auto-power only works with high-level inputs. I don't have the plug to connect to the high-level inputs; it was apparently thrown away when the sub was installed in my previous vehicle (d'oh!) and Crutchfield said the plug cannot be ordered separately from the amp. So, looks like I'm back to using the RCA plugs for signal.

Crutchfield also said that I could wire the remote power line to any of the accessory fuses. The line draws less than 1/2 an amp, so it shouldn't overload anything.

I'll provide an update when I get around to wiring this up (later this week) to say how it works...
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:07 PM   #7
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If you're going to run to an accessory fuse, just run to the "hot" side of the fuse and add your own in-line fuse instead of using that accessory fuse and running a possible risk of overloading it. Just to be safe.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:06 AM   #8
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If you're going to run to an accessory fuse, just run to the "hot" side of the fuse and add your own in-line fuse instead of using that accessory fuse and running a possible risk of overloading it. Just to be safe.
Thanks for the tip!

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