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Old 02-02-2010, 07:22 PM   #31
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you can bridge the two channels to take power from both and it still work properly, right?

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Old 02-02-2010, 07:26 PM   #32
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I used to have a couple of these in my old truck...well, the ones I had were the precursors to these, since I bought some of their limited prototypes/test run models.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=33

I'm not sure if they will fit without extreme modification...but if anyone would be willing to try it out and post a write-up about how to go about it, I would be very interested in following that thread. For such a tiny subwoofer...they could hit HARD!
the mounting depth for those are like 3.5" compared to those pyramids that rogue put in which were like 2.75".
those might be a little too deep, but anything is possible.

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Old 02-02-2010, 07:26 PM   #33
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not all amplifiers are bridgeable.. just depends on the internal power amplification circuit .. with most Pwm driven mosfets they can be -- but not sure what this amplifier is.. If anyone knows any model numbers for the amp or has the internal schematic -- I can sit down and decipher some of it..
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:28 PM   #34
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yeah, just makin sure cause thats what i did with my 2 channel amp for my 10"
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:17 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APPSTATEwrangler View Post
the mounting depth for those are like 3.5" compared to those pyramids that rogue put in which were like 2.75".
those might be a little too deep, but anything is possible.
Yeah, that's where I'm confused too...I've never had mine apart (stock sub still works...*knock on wood*) so wasn't sure, but would LOVE to fit one of those in there.

I'll prolly end up going with the pyramid though...can't beat the price.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:31 PM   #36
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haha yeah 8 bucks.
you might wanna go ahead and get 3 or 4 to replace em when they blow, which will probably happen.

this looks like a fun project, might be doing this myself too.
hold on 1 question: if i have my radio tuned to my 10" sub and i turn the volume up with lets say the pyramid 6.5" in there as well, is there a chance of blowing the 6.5" or having distortion.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:43 PM   #37
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Apptsate: all depends-- are you using Factory head unit or after market?? does it have a high pass filter setting??
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:54 PM   #38
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it is aftermarket, and not sure about the high pass filter.
what exactly does that do??
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:01 PM   #39
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ok did a check....no it does not have a high pass filter.

i have been needing to get a new head unit though so i will have to look for that spec whenever i get one
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:02 PM   #40
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if you turn on the high pass filter-- depending on how it is setup -- it sends all the music above a certain frequency level to those speakers-- so in your case-- with a 10" -- about 100 hz and above should go to your smaller speakers --hence your dash and roll bar speakers and the lower frequency to the sub ... It basically filters out anything above 100 hz...
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:10 PM   #41
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oh ok so my sub is actually receiving the same frequencies as the speakers?? i did not know that.
so since i dont have a high pass filter, a 6.5" might have some distortion??
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:57 PM   #42
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When I had 10" subs in my truck, I set my low-pass at 50Hz...I hated how fuzzy subs sound at 80Hz and up. At 50Hz, the bass is felt more than it's heard...which just make it feel more like you're there. I preferred to live with a dead zone between my subs and my mids.

Once I got my components I was in heaven though...I set my low-pass at 50Hz and everything else went to my components. The crossovers in my doors took care of the rest...sending the lower frequencies to my mids and the higher frequencies to my tweeters.
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:24 PM   #43
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i just need to get new components, thats for sure
these stock ones dont cut it
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:22 AM   #44
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Which fuse serves the red/blk wire in console connector?

Which fuse serves the red/blk hot 12v wire in console connector? ... I shorted it out and heard the fuse pop, but checked all of them with an ohmmeter and they are are good. Hmmm.

Background:
The 3 button Homelink system works so well in the console of my 70 Shelby, I figured I'd install one in my son's 04 TJ.

I found hot power in the large connector under the console, and tapped it with a 3 way tap about 12" upstream. The install went very well and we were ready to finish up. I hit the 12v and ground at the same time and it blew.

Which fuse serves this power supply?

btw- If any one wants me to post the full install steps for the Homelink, I will do so in a separate thread. Having buttons in the console for the gate and garage doors is niiiiice.

Thanks:
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:13 AM   #45
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Found it... loose wire.

Thanks
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:07 PM   #46
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hey guys this thread just inspired me to go to amazon.com and order this sub....$20 shipped! anyway my question is, can i add another additional amp and sub without touching the stock one? i was going to maybe throw a 10" under the seat or in the back. i have an alpine aftermarket headunit
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:10 PM   #47
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Elemental Designs e3.6 subwoofer

Yesterday I installed a sub from elemental designs in place of the factory and it absolutely ROCKS!! The new speaker IS 2 ohm and DVC, so it will get the most out of the factory amp. It is a deep speaker, but with a little patience it is well worth the effort. It retails for 39.99 plus shipping.

Elemental Designs
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:53 PM   #48
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Quote:
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Yesterday I installed a sub from elemental designs in place of the factory and it absolutely ROCKS!! The new speaker IS 2 ohm and DVC, so it will get the most out of the factory amp. It is a deep speaker, but with a little patience it is well worth the effort. It retails for 39.99 plus shipping.

Elemental Designs
Awesome! How much hacking did you have to do to get it to fit into the stock sub enclosure? Did it just require a lot of plastic trimming or did you have to modify the grill and everything else?
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:30 PM   #49
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I had to cut/grind all of the plastic ribs out of the bottom of the box with a dremmel tool. After doing that it still lacked just a little from sealing... My cousin is a car audio pro and he stopped by just in time. The sub comes with a thick gasket, which is easily removed and can be used as a spacer/seal. When we installed the box back in the console we noticed that there wasnt enough clearance for the sub so instead of modding the grille we simply screwed 4 spacers (10mm nuts) to the box prior to putting it in the console. After doing this all that was needed were a couple of longer screws for the grille side of the console. I even painted the screw heads black for a stock look, and you really can't tell that anything was changed, unless you turn the radio on.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:37 PM   #50
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Hrmmm...I like to break expensive stuff and those consoles don't seem to be too cheap. I may give it a go in the near future. lol

I used to run the Elemental Designs EU-700's (the pre-cursor to the 7Kv.2's/e3.6 subs)...those little suckers hit dang near as hard as my eD 11Kv.2's (10") with the same amp.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:46 PM   #51
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I think its a fairly low risk project if you take your time... I was more concerned with grinding a whole in the sub box. One must take care not to over-tighten the "grille" screws. I'll try to get some pics of the finished product ASAP.
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:56 PM   #52
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i followed steps to a T and i have no sounds from the speaker! what could be wrong? help please

i have an alpine headunit with 4 alpine speakers two in sound bar and 2 up front. nothing else. i didnt wire it myself i had a local shop do it. i did this mod bc the speaker hadnt been working for awhile....could something else be lose or blown?
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:28 PM   #53
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If you used a dual-voice coil speaker then you may have the polarity wrong on one of the coils. When I tested mine before I installed the enclosure back into the console I had the exact same problem. I removed the speaker from the box and switched the + and - on one coil and it fixed it. My sub was making NO SOUND prior to doing this. Which sub did you use?
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:49 PM   #54
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Quote:
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I think its a fairly low risk project if you take your time... I was more concerned with grinding a whole in the sub box. One must take care not to over-tighten the "grille" screws. I'll try to get some pics of the finished product ASAP.
Pics would be great...and if you're really bored and want to disassemble your console and take pics of some of the modifications you had to make to make it fit, that'd be even better

How's it bump using the factory amp? Pretty good or just "meh" compared to what it's capable of?
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:30 PM   #55
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I'll try to get you some pics tomorrow.... I was really surprised that such a small woofer could produce that kind of sound. I'm sure it would be ALOT better with some more power but for the kind of music I listen to (rock, metal, alternative) it really works well due to its quickness. It won't hit the low lows like a 10" or 12" ofcourse but I must say that I am very pleased. If only I could have heard a factory WORKING sub prior to this, but I'm sure there is no compairing. The only thing my OE sub did was rattle. My sub box had poly-fill in it, which looked to be factory. BE SURE that this is removed before attempting to mod the box (duh). I also removed the amp to make it easier to see what kind of clearance I needed.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:58 PM   #56
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So basically, is the goal to take that sub...and make it fit in this enclosure, modifying the inside of it as much as necessary until it fits in there without going past any of the edges? Also you mentioned having to use some "spacers" if I recall correctly...where exactly did those go and what was the reason for them? Where was the box making contact or whatever was going on?

And yeah, those speakers can jam...I was impressed with the EU-700s I had. They couldn't hit the super deep bass, but for their size, they sure could hit pretty low frequencies. Of course, I also had them in a pretty large box.
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:02 AM   #57
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Oh snap...I think I just came up with an even better idea. Might have to play around with it some though...especially in making sure things can fit. I've got an eD NINe.2 amp and two 11Kv.2 subs sitting in my shed right now... I wonder if I could just pull my factory sub and amp out of there and figure out a way to mount my amp under there so it's both protected from the elements and hidden from thieves.

Then put the subs in a custom downfiring box in the rear bolted to the tub...I'll have amazing audio...and it'll be a fairly stealthy install (and hard to steal).
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:24 AM   #58
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I'm gonna pull my console tomorrow and take a few pics. I may not pull the speaker due to the risk of screw hole/speaker damage. The spacers I "made" are far from space-age, but effective. I'm not sure what kind of "bump" you are looking for, I refuse to give up cargo space for speakers. If I can hear/feel it then that's good enough. I have yet to drive top-less so further audio mods may be in the future but for right now I couldn't be happier. It is way way better than any pyramid, and well worth the work. I may end up hiding a small amp in the dash though....
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Old 02-27-2010, 01:03 PM   #59
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I'm gonna pull my console tomorrow and take a few pics. I may not pull the speaker due to the risk of screw hole/speaker damage. The spacers I "made" are far from space-age, but effective. I'm not sure what kind of "bump" you are looking for, I refuse to give up cargo space for speakers. If I can hear/feel it then that's good enough. I have yet to drive top-less so further audio mods may be in the future but for right now I couldn't be happier. It is way way better than any pyramid, and well worth the work. I may end up hiding a small amp in the dash though....

Normally I wouldn't want to give up any cargo space...but since I can barely fit a case of pop in the back hatch with the rear seat in there, I figure it may be a prime candidate for a couple of subwoofers. lol

When I haul groceries, I gave up trying to stuff them in the back hatch and have half the bags come tumbling out...so I just load them all up in the back seat.

I don't have a girlfriend, kids, or many friends I haul around at the same time...so I'm thinking what I'll do is put in a custom sub box and remove the rear seat to give me the entire rear of the Jeep for cargo room.
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:55 PM   #60
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ahhhh finally got some pics to show you all what i did with my subwoofer,
the first is the bottom of the seat with the carpet still zipped up,
the second is with the carpet unzipped. you can see that i actualy mounted my amp on the box itself, but you can actually fit another 10" sub in that spot if you want some more thump.
oh an i ran the wires through the center console


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