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Old 02-19-2011, 10:45 PM   #91
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I did the same mod awhile back. The shipping was nearly more than the sub itself lol.

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Old 02-20-2011, 09:36 PM   #92
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I've just got done buying the same subwoofer from the place you bought yours. With your detailed instructions, I'll have it in very soon...

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Old 02-20-2011, 09:42 PM   #93
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I just did the same thing. Sounds really great!! Used a pair of pliers to break off the half moon shaped plastic fins on the inside of the factory box, plugged the red (+) and black (-) wires, taped off the remaining wires from the amp, and voila... great sounding SW. I highly recommend this to anyone with a blown factory SW. Really easy install.
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:02 AM   #94
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Definitely easy. I had to cut/burn/break these little plastic fins underneath the sub but it wasn't bad. I like having a low end range again lol.

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Old 02-24-2011, 09:41 PM   #95
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I have been trying to pretty much do this to my setup as well. I have made two attempts and failed twice. I got a aftermarket sub, enclosure, and stock amp from a buddy but he cut the plug off from his Sahara. I have tried to retrofit this into my setup with an aftermarket head unit using the wiring diagram. I have been told the amp works but I cant get any sound to come out of the sub. I was going to just wire in a new amp but I came across this thread tonight and figured I would try one last time. I pretty much need a wire by wire explanation I guess on how to wire this up.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:50 PM   #96
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Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!... for this post! I was able to replace my factory subwoofer with the Pyramid one from Amazon ($14.99) and its perfect! Not too ridiculous for the bass, just loud enough!

On a side note, I also replaced my head unit with a JVC Arsenal KD-A815... I cannot say enough how AWESOME this unit is... best I've ever owned. Haven't replaced the factory speakers yet, but I probably wont until much later because the combo of this head unit with the factory speakers and that sub is tremendous.

This JVC unit is especially great because of its Bluetooth ability. I can control my iPhone 4 without removing it from my pocket. Obviously you can make calls... It accesses recently incoming/outgoing calls, my phonebook, etc. It also streams audio through bluetooth and you can control everything from the stereo! This thing is incredible, seriously.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:28 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue View Post
InfernoGirl, I will post some pics later today!

Jeepmanct, we can walk through this install with no problems sir. Note that this was in my 2002 Wrangler, so your Jeep may be a bit different. You can grab a Haynes manual for about $18 at Autozone to walk you through removing body parts like the console.

1-Get yourself and your tools ready (flat screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench and extension, a couple of torx bits, dremel, drill, bits, etc.; lock your dog in her kennel with food and water so that she does not terrorize you while you are trying to concentrate; plenty of COFFEE).Make certain we are in Park and the parking break is on for safety you know! Turn on some good music on the shop radio and sip some coffee.

2-I removed my passenger door and slid the passenger seat fully to the rear in full tilt to give me more room to work.

3-Remove those rubber cup holder liners in front of the console and in the rear. This should expose two bolts in the rear cupholder and one in the front.

4-Remove front bolt (10mm socket) and rear two bolts (torx 30).

5-Carefully work console out from under front tabs (plastic tabs will break so be careful) of shifter cover and work it out and ease it over into passenger seat (there is a wiring harness attached to it that we will remove next).

6-Unhook electrical harness by sliding red lock to the side and unplugging by pressing white tab. Study it for a minute so that you understand how it works without breaking it.

7-Once the harness is unhooked, the console should slide right out of the vehicle.

8-Take it to your workbench and empty the junk out of the top of it (old granola bars, pens, pencils, old insurance cards, and the pocket change).

9-Look inside console from the top and find two screws, remove them both, I think they are phillips head.

10-Flip console over and study how those shiny gold metal brackets are held in place by the plastic posts. There are two silver "star" washers pressed onto the posts holding tension on the brackets. They have to be CAREFULLY removed, or we will break the plastic posts. Sip some coffee here, and take a deep breath as you need a ton of patience here. Gently pry the tabs of the star washers back with a small flathead screwdriver and needlenose pliers to remove them. Don't force them or you WILL break those plastic posts.

11-Once the star washers are removed, flatten them back out as we have to reuse them; I just pinched them with my plilers to flatten them out again; set them to the side and take a deep breath. Almost there!

12-Lay the console on the side with speaker up, and remove the three screws holding the enclosure in place; these are phillips head as well.

13-Slide speaker/amp enclosure out of the center console. Get some cleaner and carefully clean out the inside of the console and the outside of the enclosure. My Jeep's previous owner had a major soda spill that was all over everything here...

14-Remove the old subwoofer by using a torx 15 bit; there are four torx screws holding it in. Also get a flathead screwdriver and pry it out because it is held in place with sticky tape. Do not damage wiring harness here! Once removed, examine factory subwoofer and marvel at the huge tear around the cone = BLOWN!

15-Look inside of enclosure and you will see some fins molded into the plastic just underneath where the speaker mounts; the central part has a semi circle "C" type look to it. These will have to be trimmed down some so that our new Pyramid will fit flush in the enclosure. Test fit new sub carefully to see this. Use caution with new sub as we don't want to damage its cone!

16-Carefully trim these fins down without cutting any wires. I used a dremel tool with a heavy duty cutting disc. Trim a small amount, clean it out with a shop vac, and test fit the new sub. Once it fits flush we are good!

17-Examine wiring harness and determine which wire is positive and which is negative; on my 2002 Jeep, the brown is positive, and the gray is negative. We will only use one set as we have a single coil sub as opposed to the factory unit's dual voice coil setup. This will change on certain year model's I am sure. A search on Google or a call to a local speaker shop may help you determine this. I had to solder a smaller connector on one of my wires to get it to fit snugly on the Pyramid, but that was no problem. I cut the connectors off of the unused wires and taped them with electrical tape to the main harness so there would be no shorts.

18-Once wired, check again to make sure you hooked it up properly, and test the unit by laying console in passenger seat and reconnecting harness to make sure it works. Be careful as the speaker is not fully mounted yet and you don't want to damage it!

19-Once we ensure it works, we need to mount it in the enclosure. Make sure the wires are routed with no interference, and lay your new sub in the enclosure. The mounting holes will not align so we need to drill new ones. Use a 3/32" bit (I think; compare it to the screws and make sure) to drill four new mounting holes using caution around the new sub; protect that sub with your hand as you don't want to run a drill bit through that cone!!!

20-Remove speaker and blow out any plastic debris.

21-Install speaker making sure wiring is connected properly, and routed properly; tighten four mounting screws (T15) only until snug. We are working in plastic and don't want to strip it out!! Be CAREFUL here!!

22-Sip more coffee and admire your pretty new speaker!

23-Reinstall enclosure into center console carefully while protecting speaker from damage. Reinstall star washers onto plastic posts; reinstall three screws on grille side of console; reinstall two screws in tray on top inside of console. Tighten only to snug, don't overtighten!

24-Reinstall center console into Jeep; remember to hook up harness and fasten red safety fastener on connector. Careful not to break any tabs here! Reinstall 10mm bolt in front cupholder, torx 30 bolts in rear (2) cupholder, and replace rubber cupholder liners.

25-Check your work and make sure no parts/fasteners are left out. Clean up tools and mess. Sip coffee.

26-Turn on radio and enjoy the no fuzzing blown speaker sound.

Again note that you are not installing an aftermarker amp with this unit so you are not driving it to its fullest potential with the factory mini amp, but it will sound 110% better than the blown factory unit, and we ARE on a budget with this project!!

Seriously, I hope this helps! Let me know how it works, and please ask any questions if you have them!
Subscribed-sounds like I may have another project thanks
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:30 PM   #98
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Any ideas on which wires are inputs to the amp, power, and ground. I have tried the brown and grew wires to the sub but that didn't work. I may have my inputs wrong.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:11 PM   #99
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yeah, my setup worked for less than 24 hours, then quit working. Sub is not blown. Must have a short somewhere, I guess I need to check that out today
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:28 PM   #100
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Is this the one you guys are using?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036M...8938392&sr=8-2
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:06 PM   #101
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Nah the one I used was a Pyramid 6.5" and it was literally $15

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Old 02-28-2011, 10:29 PM   #102
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Before modifying your center console to fit a new speaker...., try repairing the old speaker! "3-M" makes a 2 part adhesive that will glue anything to anything!
I removed my console/amp/subwoofer to find the same thing everyone has found...., the speaker cone had seperated from the mounting ring! The mounting ring is that black plastic ring that's not mounted to anything. I removed the damaged speaker from the amp enclosure and set in down on my workbench with the blown side up.
That black, plastic mounting ring is what held the speaker cone in place. The reason the speaker cone has "blown" all the way around is because the speaker HAS BECOME UN-GLUED! Why can't it be "re-glued"?
It can. here's what I did....
I placed the speaker with the blown cone facing up.
I test fit the mounting ring.
I ran a bead of "3-M", dual part adhesive around the speaker where the blown cone meets the mounting ring.
Place the mounting ring back in place..., and set something heavy on top of it (I used an old car battery)..., and let it dry for an hour or so.
Then just re-install the speaker back into to the amp enclosure, hook it up, and see how it sounds!
I'm going on 2 years since I repaired my sub..., and it still sounds good.
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:42 PM   #103
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I upgraded my factory sub too
Check out this video, go to 6:00 to see it.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:58 PM   #104
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subwoofer

Before modifying your center console to fit a new speaker...., try repairing the old speaker! "3-M" makes a 2 part adhesive that will glue anything to anything!
I removed my console/amp/subwoofer to find the same thing everyone has found...., the speaker cone had seperated from the mounting ring! The mounting ring is that black plastic ring that's not mounted to anything. I removed the damaged speaker from the amp enclosure and set in down on my workbench with the blown side up.
That black, plastic mounting ring is what held the speaker cone in place. The reason the speaker cone has "blown" all the way around is because the speaker HAS BECOME UN-GLUED! Why can't it be "re-glued"?
It can. here's what I did....
I placed the speaker with the blown cone facing up.
I test fit the mounting ring.
I ran a bead of "3-M", dual part adhesive around the speaker where the blown cone meets the mounting ring.
Place the mounting ring back in place..., and set something heavy on top of it (I used an old car battery)..., and let it dry for an hour or so.
Then just re-install the speaker back into to the amp enclosure, hook it up, and see how it sounds!
I'm going on 2 years since I repaired my sub..., and it still sounds good.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:09 PM   #105
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has anyone used this one?

Amazon.com: Pyramid WX65X 6.5-Inch High Power White Injected P.P. Cone Woofer: Electronics

I see so many options, i want one I canout in with minmal modifications. What does everyone suggest?
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:05 AM   #106
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Well, I have been eyeing this project for a while now. My sub is not blown as the PO didn't drive it very much. I just want a little bit cleaner sound. I ordered the Sub this morning on Amazon, I love Amazon Prime, for 3.99 shipping it will be at my house tomorrow, and hopefully installed this weekend. So for $18.98 shipped, that's a good deal.

Thanks Rogue!
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:04 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MbRich
Well, I have been eyeing this project for a while now. My sub is not blown as the PO didn't drive it very much. I just want a little bit cleaner sound. I ordered the Sub this morning on Amazon, I love Amazon Prime, for 3.99 shipping it will be at my house tomorrow, and hopefully installed this weekend. So for $18.98 shipped, that's a good deal.

Thanks Rogue!
Which one did you order?
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:24 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grnd93

Which one did you order?
Pyramid WX65X 6.5"
Got it today - I'm going to try to install tomorrow if I get time.
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:35 PM   #109
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Thanks, please let me know how it goes. I will be doing this very soon.
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:41 PM   #110
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Thanks, please let me know how it goes. I will be doing this very soon.
OK - So I did this one today - It went very well. The star washers that are on the plastic posts are very nerve wracking - so I did as Rogue suggested and did it slowly and took my time and drank more coffee.

All in all, it took me about an hour.
Attached are some photos.
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:44 PM   #111
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This is how it looks installed
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:16 PM   #112
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Looks good. It's nice to have a low end back isn't it?

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Old 03-13-2011, 10:23 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by InvertChaos
Looks good. It's nice to have a low end back isn't it?

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Mine wasn't blown (yet) but I think this one sounds better.
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:23 PM   #114
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I think I just blew my factory sub (first time having it out on the highway going 70mph of course)...anyways, I'm ordering the Pyramid one from Amazon today, I guess it will be my new weekend project (even though I have no idea what I am doing lol). Anyone want to volunteer to come install it for me? I will supply you with beer!!
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:08 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepDreamin
I think I just blew my factory sub (first time having it out on the highway going 70mph of course)...anyways, I'm ordering the Pyramid one from Amazon today, I guess it will be my new weekend project (even though I have no idea what I am doing lol). Anyone want to volunteer to come install it for me? I will supply you with beer!!
It's really simple - I just followed the steps - hardest part for me was disconnecting the harness and then the removal of the star washers. I wasn't sure what I was trimming on the "fins" so I trimmed down the part that makes the "C" - everything worked out.

Good Luck
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:12 PM   #116
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Thanks for the pictures. Ordered mine last night, hopefully will have it in by this weekend.
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:36 PM   #117
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17-Examine wiring harness and determine which wire is positive and which is negative; on my 2002 Jeep, the brown is positive, and the gray is negative. We will only use one set as we have a single coil sub as opposed to the factory unit's dual voice coil setup. This will change on certain year model's I am sure. A search on Google or a call to a local speaker shop may help you determine this. I had to solder a smaller connector on one of my wires to get it to fit snugly on the Pyramid, but that was no problem. I cut the connectors off of the unused wires and taped them with electrical tape to the main harness so there would be no shorts.
So, I'm getting ready to do this mod this weekend and I was reading through the steps and step 17 is where I'm getting worried I might not be able to do it. Did anyone else have to do the soldering of the smaller connector in order for it to fit? This will be my first attempt to do ANYTHING on my Jeep (on any car period) and I'm pretty sure I don't know how to solder (or have the tools for it for that matter). I really want to try to do it myself though because the car audio place I called wants to charge me $150 just for labor (they said 2 hours, but I saw several people on here say it took an hour for them). Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:27 PM   #118
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I didn't solder it. I just took one set of the connectors off the old one and put them on the new one and bent it tight.
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:07 PM   #119
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I didn't solder it. I just took one set of the connectors off the old one and put them on the new one and bent it tight.
Awesome, thanks, I'll give that a try!
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:48 PM   #120
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Awesome, thanks, I'll give that a try!
Just get some needle nose plyers and patience and you'll be set!

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