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Old 02-01-2012, 05:15 PM   #181
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i also did this a few weeks ago. super simple and easy instructions if you needed them. and the sound difference is AMAZING! thanks for this thread!

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Old 02-25-2012, 01:19 PM   #182
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Thanks for the great thread! I disconnected my sub until my new one shipped. I got it for $15 from amazon (Pyramid pro plus W64) and made the same install as Gdooley, but I did have to trim the center rib on the enclosure about .25" for the new sub to lay flat. I used the factory wiring to the speaker but had to tighten the connectors a bit with pliers. Sounds great in my driveway!

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Old 03-09-2012, 10:27 PM   #183
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I am about to start this mod and I was wondering if anyone knows, if I use a 1 ohm single voice coil will that be the same as the factory 2 ohm dual voice coil? I want to try and get the full 75 watts from the amp for the sub.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:24 PM   #184
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I did this about a year ago but now my OEM amp is dead. Where can I find another amp or what's the best replacement options?
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:07 PM   #185
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Smile Replace factory subwoofer

Rogue,
Thank you for the step by step instructions from 2010. Yes it worked great, I used a kicker cvt, modified the box as you said, fit like a glove. Again these forums are great for info. Thanks again.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:49 PM   #186
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Torn 360•. Trying liquid elect tape
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:55 PM   #187
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Wow that's a terrible picture. The liquid tape fixed the sub, sounds great.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:32 AM   #188
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Just ordered the Pyramid for my 02 TJ.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:51 PM   #189
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Talking Great Write Up!

I just finished up the install, and these instructions were spot on. It actually took me less than 90 minutes start to finish including vacuuming out under the console and I was by no means rushing anything. 3/32's was the perfect drill hole diameter but until you mess with the star washers, you don't realize just how big of a bastard they really are! I haven't done any sound tests yet beyond making sure everything is firing, but looking forward to cranking it up tomorrow!

Additional notes:
Vehicle - 2005 Wrangler TJ Sport trim w/ console sub
Step 6 - My harness was all gray, but please be gentle with it.
Step 9 - Yes, they are both phillips head
Step 10 - Star washers suck! That is all.
Step 14 - Don't panic that the new and old sub are a little different in size. Read the rest of the instructions, you will need to drill new mounting holes.
Step 16 - This took me a little trial and error of how much to grind down, take your time.
Step 19 - Yes, these are 3/32's if you are using the same Torx screw that was holding in the OEM sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue View Post

1-Get yourself and your tools ready (flat screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench and extension, a couple of torx bits, dremel, drill, bits, etc.; lock your dog in her kennel with food and water so that she does not terrorize you while you are trying to concentrate; plenty of COFFEE).Make certain we are in Park and the parking break is on for safety you know! Turn on some good music on the shop radio and sip some coffee.

2-I removed my passenger door and slid the passenger seat fully to the rear in full tilt to give me more room to work.

3-Remove those rubber cup holder liners in front of the console and in the rear. This should expose two bolts in the rear cupholder and one in the front.

4-Remove front bolt (10mm socket) and rear two bolts (torx 30).

5-Carefully work console out from under front tabs (plastic tabs will break so be careful) of shifter cover and work it out and ease it over into passenger seat (there is a wiring harness attached to it that we will remove next).

6-Unhook electrical harness by sliding red lock to the side and unplugging by pressing white tab. Study it for a minute so that you understand how it works without breaking it.

7-Once the harness is unhooked, the console should slide right out of the vehicle.

8-Take it to your workbench and empty the junk out of the top of it (old granola bars, pens, pencils, old insurance cards, and the pocket change).

9-Look inside console from the top and find two screws, remove them both, I think they are phillips head.

10-Flip console over and study how those shiny gold metal brackets are held in place by the plastic posts. There are two silver "star" washers pressed onto the posts holding tension on the brackets. They have to be CAREFULLY removed, or we will break the plastic posts. Sip some coffee here, and take a deep breath as you need a ton of patience here. Gently pry the tabs of the star washers back with a small flathead screwdriver and needlenose pliers to remove them. Don't force them or you WILL break those plastic posts.

11-Once the star washers are removed, flatten them back out as we have to reuse them; I just pinched them with my plilers to flatten them out again; set them to the side and take a deep breath. Almost there!

12-Lay the console on the side with speaker up, and remove the three screws holding the enclosure in place; these are phillips head as well.

13-Slide speaker/amp enclosure out of the center console. Get some cleaner and carefully clean out the inside of the console and the outside of the enclosure. My Jeep's previous owner had a major soda spill that was all over everything here...

14-Remove the old subwoofer by using a torx 15 bit; there are four torx screws holding it in. Also get a flathead screwdriver and pry it out because it is held in place with sticky tape. Do not damage wiring harness here! Once removed, examine factory subwoofer and marvel at the huge tear around the cone = BLOWN!

15-Look inside of enclosure and you will see some fins molded into the plastic just underneath where the speaker mounts; the central part has a semi circle "C" type look to it. These will have to be trimmed down some so that our new Pyramid will fit flush in the enclosure. Test fit new sub carefully to see this. Use caution with new sub as we don't want to damage its cone!

16-Carefully trim these fins down without cutting any wires. I used a dremel tool with a heavy duty cutting disc. Trim a small amount, clean it out with a shop vac, and test fit the new sub. Once it fits flush we are good!

17-Examine wiring harness and determine which wire is positive and which is negative; on my 2002 Jeep, the brown is positive, and the gray is negative. We will only use one set as we have a single coil sub as opposed to the factory unit's dual voice coil setup. This will change on certain year model's I am sure. A search on Google or a call to a local speaker shop may help you determine this. I had to solder a smaller connector on one of my wires to get it to fit snugly on the Pyramid, but that was no problem. I cut the connectors off of the unused wires and taped them with electrical tape to the main harness so there would be no shorts.

18-Once wired, check again to make sure you hooked it up properly, and test the unit by laying console in passenger seat and reconnecting harness to make sure it works. Be careful as the speaker is not fully mounted yet and you don't want to damage it!

19-Once we ensure it works, we need to mount it in the enclosure. Make sure the wires are routed with no interference, and lay your new sub in the enclosure. The mounting holes will not align so we need to drill new ones. Use a 3/32" bit (I think; compare it to the screws and make sure) to drill four new mounting holes using caution around the new sub; protect that sub with your hand as you don't want to run a drill bit through that cone!!!

20-Remove speaker and blow out any plastic debris.

21-Install speaker making sure wiring is connected properly, and routed properly; tighten four mounting screws (T15) only until snug. We are working in plastic and don't want to strip it out!! Be CAREFUL here!!

22-Sip more coffee and admire your pretty new speaker!

23-Reinstall enclosure into center console carefully while protecting speaker from damage. Reinstall star washers onto plastic posts; reinstall three screws on grille side of console; reinstall two screws in tray on top inside of console. Tighten only to snug, don't overtighten!

24-Reinstall center console into Jeep; remember to hook up harness and fasten red safety fastener on connector. Careful not to break any tabs here! Reinstall 10mm bolt in front cupholder, torx 30 bolts in rear (2) cupholder, and replace rubber cupholder liners.

25-Check your work and make sure no parts/fasteners are left out. Clean up tools and mess. Sip coffee.

26-Turn on radio and enjoy the no fuzzing blown speaker sound.

Again note that you are not installing an aftermarker amp with this unit so you are not driving it to its fullest potential with the factory mini amp, but it will sound 110% better than the blown factory unit, and we ARE on a budget with this project!!

Seriously, I hope this helps! Let me know how it works, and please ask any questions if you have them!
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:39 AM   #190
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Rogue, I just wanted to let you know that your instructions are still helping new Jeep owners! I love your writing style - I already had the coffee and garage radio going... thx!
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:14 PM   #191
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update: Done! and so easy with this awesome write-up. Now I can't wait to replace the other speakers... thanks again!!
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:14 PM   #192
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Just got done installling my Pyramid 6.5". Only took about an hour and sounds phenomonal!

Thanks to all the advice here on this thread!
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:48 AM   #193
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Hello,

I am cheap and don't want to spend $80 on the highly recommended Kicker....are you still happy with the Pyramid for $20?

John.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:34 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdpoissa
Hello,

I am cheap and don't want to spend $80 on the highly recommended Kicker....are you still happy with the Pyramid for $20?

John.
I did a Pyle or Pyramid sub (can't remember and since sold my TJ for a JKUR) I found on Amazon for around $12-$15. It was a vast improvement over the OEM paper cone and the stock amp could handle it. That kicker install is pretty sweet, but you'd really need a more powerful amp to run that sub.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:33 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPM171 View Post

I did a Pyle or Pyramid sub (can't remember and since sold my TJ for a JKUR) I found on Amazon for around $12-$15. It was a vast improvement over the OEM paper cone and the stock amp could handle it. That kicker install is pretty sweet, but you'd really need a more powerful amp to run that sub.
Not necessarily run it but to take advantage of the full range. But that depends on the rms rating.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:33 PM   #196
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Sorry I have been out of the forum for a while folks. I have been having some back issues again. I am really happy this post helped saved some money for you folks! I am also happy that it helped some get out of the belief that only the shop can work on your rigs!

Sadly, I will be selling my Jeep. I posted it tonight in the for sale section. I will remain in contact with you guys though. This forum has been an amazing source of money and time saving help for me while tinkering and modifying my Jeep!

Feel free to give me shout anytime!
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:24 PM   #197
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P.s. in case anyone is interested in changing the other speakers.

http://daedalusideas.blogspot.com/20...akers.html?m=1
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:00 PM   #198
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I've got a question for ya'll I'm adding the factory sub to my TJ this weekend and it didn't come with one from the factory so o bought a new(used) console. So I won't have the factory connection to simply plug up the new speaker so I'll have to chop off the pigtail and wire it up to the radio directly bit I don't know what wire needs to go to what. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:20 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodiakjoe1978 View Post
I've got a question for ya'll I'm adding the factory sub to my TJ this weekend and it didn't come with one from the factory so o bought a new(used) console. So I won't have the factory connection to simply plug up the new speaker so I'll have to chop off the pigtail and wire it up to the radio directly bit I don't know what wire needs to go to what. Any help would be appreciated.
Are running the sub off of a factory OEM deck or do you have an aftermarket receiver w/ subwoofer pre-outs? Running an amp too?
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:01 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPM171 View Post

Are running the sub off of a factory OEM deck or do you have an aftermarket receiver w/ subwoofer pre-outs? Running an amp too?
It's an aftermarket deck I'm sure it has pre-outs I think I remember seeing them when we installed the deck. I know how to hook up a aftermarket amp to the deck but the factory sub box has an amp built-in and I thought the only wires coming from it is a pigtail that you normally just plug into the factory wiring but since my jeep didn't come with the factory sub I'm sure I don't have that pigtail under my console. So I figured I'd have to cut off the pigtail and splice the wires to the deck.
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:20 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodiakjoe1978 View Post
It's an aftermarket deck I'm sure it has pre-outs I think I remember seeing them when we installed the deck. I know how to hook up a aftermarket amp to the deck but the factory sub box has an amp built-in and I thought the only wires coming from it is a pigtail that you normally just plug into the factory wiring but since my jeep didn't come with the factory sub I'm sure I don't have that pigtail under my console. So I figured I'd have to cut off the pigtail and splice the wires to the deck.
I never messed with my amp wiring on my TJ, but I would guess it's only a handful of wires that ALL LOOK THE SAME! If I stumble on a wiring diagram I'll post it here. Good luck!
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:21 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPM171 View Post

I never messed with my amp wiring on my TJ, but I would guess it's only a handful of wires that ALL LOOK THE SAME! If I stumble on a wiring diagram I'll post it here. Good luck!
Ok thanks.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:35 PM   #203
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look in the fsm. it may have the wiring diagram. jeepslimited.com has 'em free. also Haynes for my yr has a decent wiring diagram for the entire vehicle. mine is an '03.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:25 PM   #204
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I've got a couple questions for ya'll when you replace the factory sub it looks like there's 4 wires coming out of the amp. The previous owner had swaped it out before and they only hooked up the red and black wires. There's 2 other wires that they left unhooked and I didn't know if that will cause a short or something else to mess out. The only reason I found out this is I heard something rattling around in the box when I took the speaker out I found the little plastic triangle cover not screwed on covering the amp. Do I NEED to put that cover back over the amp or is it ok to leave off?
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:42 PM   #205
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If you're talking about the sub in the back of a JK, I believe the stock unit is a dual voice coil. If the previous owner replaced it with a single voice coil then there will be an unused pair.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:28 AM   #206
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If you're talking about the sub in the back of a JK, I believe the stock unit is a dual voice coil. If the previous owner replaced it with a single voice coil then there will be an unused pair.
No I'm talking about the TJ's with the sub in the center console.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:41 AM   #207
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Ah, then my apologies. It's probably the same thing though, Google tells me that the stock sub in a TJ is a DVC unit so you'll have two pairs for it coming from the amp (one per coil); if the previous owner then replaced it with an SVC sub, one pair would be left unused.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:44 AM   #208
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Ah, then my apologies. It's probably the same thing though, Google tells me that the stock sub in a TJ is a DVC unit so you'll have two pairs for it coming from the amp (one per coil); if the previous owner then replaced it with an SVC sub, one pair would be left unused.
Ok thanks, will it hurt it to just leave the unused wires just hanging in there or should I at least tape em up to make sure they never make contact with anything?
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:12 AM   #209
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It's always good practice to tape unused cable ends.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:31 AM   #210
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So does it matter which wires go where when reconnecting all factory wires to the sub? Like, which wires are for voice and which wires are for bass? Anyone know?

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