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Old 04-23-2013, 03:26 PM   #211
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Just did mine. Even though the stock speaker was torn about 4 inches around, it still sounded better than this crap pyramid. Fail.

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Old 04-23-2013, 04:30 PM   #212
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Are you sure you've wired it to the correct polarity? If you've wired it out of phase it will sound awful (effectively the cone is doing the opposite thing it's supposed to). If you haven't already, try switching the connections over.

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Old 04-23-2013, 04:45 PM   #213
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Are you sure you've wired it to the correct polarity? If you've wired it out of phase it will sound awful (effectively the cone is doing the opposite thing it's supposed to). If you haven't already, try switching the connections over.
Well I wired it as directed here. I'll try that.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:51 PM   #214
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Also, the reason I say it's crap is because it sounds maxed out at a volume where the stock sub still had good sound and room to grow.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:52 PM   #215
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Also, the reason I say it's crap is because it sounds maxed out at a volume where the stock sub still had good sound and room to grow.
that's odd. I've had the $20 pyramid sub in for a yr and only issue I had was with the terminal connection on the sub itself. so I bypassed the bridge n soldered straight to the wires coming out of the sub. sound has been awesome!
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:45 PM   #216
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I have the same setup, Grey/Brown Red/Black. You can hook up either combo Grey/Brown or Red/Black. One is low bass one is high bass. Or you can hook up both and get full range. The Pyramid WX65X sounds great and will keep me from happy for awhile. Red and Brown are + Black and Grey are -

I'd like to hear from a car audio person on what the effect of hooking up both channels to one speaker.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:00 AM   #217
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As an audiophile I wouldn't do the put mid bass to anything over 8" but it wouldn't be bad in a 10". If you have any other speakers bigger than 4.5"-5" I wouldn't put the mid bass to the sub.

But on the flip side if you are amped or are using an eq just set the low pass filter so the sub isn't over worked trying to reproduce the mids.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:05 AM   #218
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I just order my new sub yesterday. Thanks for all the help. I will post what I think after I install it.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:02 AM   #219
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OK my new sub is on its way. One question when it gets here.
Wiring?? Do I use all 4 wires, wire them together, or only use 2 wires????
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:07 AM   #220
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Use all 4 and if it is too distorted for your liking go down to 2.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:06 PM   #221
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OK my new sub is on its way. One question when it gets here.
Wiring?? Do I use all 4 wires, wire them together, or only use 2 wires????
Did you order a dual voice coil or single voice coil sub?
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:37 PM   #222
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No, just no. Don't even go there. I know what you are thinking but if it is dvc both inputs need the same source.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:24 PM   #223
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OK, but it goes some way towards answering the question. If he has a DVC sub coming then he has to use all four wires to get full response; if it's SVC then he has the choice of running a single pair or bridging two channels, depending on the amp that's driving it.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:37 PM   #224
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To get the correct performance from a dvc both coils need the same input. I'm just going off what was said earlier that one pair is bass and one is mid bass. So you shouldn't have a dvc with one coil pushing mid bass and the other pushing bass.

Either have both push only bass or both push bass and mid bass. They both need to be the same.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:45 PM   #225
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To get the correct performance from a dvc both coils need the same input. I'm just going off what was said earlier that one pair is bass and one is mid bass. So you shouldn't have a dvc with one coil pushing mid bass and the other pushing bass.

Either have both push only bass or both push bass and mid bass. They both need to be the same.
But no one knows which wires are miss and which are lows. So they connect both
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:51 PM   #226
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So you would have to bridge the coils. Positives go to coil 1 with a third wire connecting to the coil 2 positive . Negatives go to coil 2 with a third wire connecting to the coil 1 negative.

I would find out which one the bass though for better sound imho.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:54 PM   #227
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To get the correct performance from a dvc both coils need the same input. I'm just going off what was said earlier that one pair is bass and one is mid bass. So you shouldn't have a dvc with one coil pushing mid bass and the other pushing bass.

Either have both push only bass or both push bass and mid bass. They both need to be the same.
Ah, I was assuming that Gillmo was talking about factory wiring - the stock sub in a JK and also I believe a TJ is a DVC, so if he's replacing that with an aftermarket unit then the wiring pairs should already have a matched output.

OhSixTJ, did you resolve your sound quality issue?
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:25 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post

Ah, I was assuming that Gillmo was talking about factory wiring - the stock sub in a JK and also I believe a TJ is a DVC, so if he's replacing that with an aftermarket unit then the wiring pairs should already have a matched output.

OhSixTJ, did you resolve your sound quality issue?
Yes. I put the factory sub back in! Haha
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:12 AM   #229
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Everything in my Jeep is factory.
I ordered the Pyramid 6.5 sub
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:21 PM   #230
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put in the WX65X last night to replace the factory sub (wasn't blown, just wanted a little more bass). connected both sets of wires as displayed in speedyrev's pic above. and when i fired the system up, there is noticeably less bass than with the factory sub. didn't know that one set of wires was bass and the other was hp. thanks for that info. guess ill go home tonight and pull it out again and remove the high pass wires. im assuming that will fix the issue?
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:22 PM   #231
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put in the WX65X last night to replace the factory sub (wasn't blown, just wanted a little more bass). connected both sets of wires as displayed in speedyrev's pic above. and when i fired the system up, there is noticeably less than with the factory sub. didn't know that one set of wires was bass and the other was hp. thanks for that info. guess ill go home tonight and pull it out again and remove the high pass wires. im assuming that will fix the issue?
I had the same results. So I put the factory sub back in.
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:55 PM   #232
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ok so im guessing the sub is a 6.5 inch?
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:24 AM   #233
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I added the sub console to my 98 and got everything wired up. Of course the sub was blown but I expected that. I ordered a DVC 1 OHM Kicker (link below). I wired it only off the black and red pair in a series configuration. I feared ruining the factory amp by running both pairs. Does anybody have any input on running both pairs to a 1 ohm sub? Would it ruin my amp as I think?

Kicker 40CWRT671 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:56 AM   #234
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I don't think the stock head has enough punch to drive that speaker effectively. At 1 ohm your amp is going to be running hot. Wiring in a series gets you to 2 ohms but I don't know what the wiring is like at the amp side, so I can't give you advice there.
Subs tend to like more headroom. I always oversize the amp to the sub.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:11 AM   #235
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I don't think the stock head has enough punch to drive that speaker effectively. At 1 ohm your amp is going to be running hot. Wiring in a series gets you to 2 ohms but I don't know what the wiring is like at the amp side, so I can't give you advice there.
Subs tend to like more headroom. I always oversize the amp to the sub.
Yeah I kind of feared running the amp hot which is why I wired it in a series configuration. It sounds pretty good just was wondering if it could sound better. I have just read so many different things about the amp I don't know what to believe and what not to.

I have read that it is a 2 ohm DVC speaker. Then I have read that it is a 2 Ohm DVC wired to show the amp 1 ohm of resistance. I have even read that people put in 4 ohm speakers.

I tried to use my multimeter and get the actual resistance off the factory sub but it keeps showing me zero ohms. I tried on a few different speakers and it also shows zero. Not sure what I am doing wrong.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:44 AM   #236
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I added the sub console to my 98 and got everything wired up. Of course the sub was blown but I expected that. I ordered a DVC 1 OHM Kicker (link below). I wired it only off the black and red pair in a series configuration. I feared ruining the factory amp by running both pairs. Does anybody have any input on running both pairs to a 1 ohm sub? Would it ruin my amp as I think?

Kicker 40CWRT671 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
I am very interested in your sub's performance and install because I ordered the 2ohm version of your sub.
Kicker 40CWRT672 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
I went with the 2ohm because I also read that the factory sub was 2ohm and DVC. I figured this would be a good replacement. May I ask why you went with the 1ohm, and what recommendations you or anyone on this thread have for me?

Also I will be running an aftermarket head unit.
Pioneer DEH-P8400BH CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:59 AM   #237
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I am very interested in your sub's performance and install because I ordered the 2ohm version of your sub.
Kicker 40CWRT672 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
I went with the 2ohm because I also read that the factory sub was 2ohm and DVC. I figured this would be a good replacement. May I ask why you went with the 1ohm, and what recommendations you or anyone on this thread have for me?

Also I will be running an aftermarket head unit.
Pioneer DEH-P8400BH CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
Well I ordered the 1 Ohm because I thought I had read some where that it was a 1 ohm DVC sub. I have also read things saying that the stock sub is a 2 ohm sub wired to show the amp 1 Ohm of resistance. So in short...... I ordered before I verified. That said, I went ahead and installed that sub. At first I had it wired in series off one channel only, while it sounded ok I was certain that I could get more out of it. After conversing with another forum member, he told me that his buddy is an audio guy and tested the two subs. The 1 ohm sub had 1.2 ohms of resistance, and the stock 2 ohm had 1.4 ohms of resistance.

Yesterday I went back in and re wired mine, wired it like the stock configuration. I must say it made a huge improvement! I was truly shocked that that little sub can put out that kind of sound. Time will tell if it heats up the amp or not, but for now I have not noticed any problems. I would reccomend this sub 100% to anybody. You also have to remember I was upgrading from not having a sub what so ever, as they were not even an option in 1998 for my Jeep.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:17 PM   #238
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I am now debating weather I should tell Crutchfield to send me the 1ohm instead, or just wait and give the 2ohm a try once it gets here.

Thanks for the info, and I will also see what kind of information I can get Crutchfield provide me.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:31 PM   #239
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First off, nice thread!!! I just bought my son a 2002 wrangler and we have been doing all the maintenance on it from the axles up. That being said...

I did not know the jeep had a sub in it. His stock deck is semi functional (at best). I see where the sub should be. No surprise there is no sound coming out of it at this time. I will help him (me do the work and let him watch and learn) to update his stereo and speakers. His deck will have to be replaced!
From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub
This leads me to my questions...

From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub?

The amp has a proprietary interface to the stock deck (not a standard RCA out to normal amps)?

I will be installing a new deck, speakers (in dash and sound bar), sub and a small bridged mono amp that will have to have a built in crossover if the stock amp will have to be replaced with the deck. Everything will be of a proper size to fit in existing stock space.

I have looked at lots of the links from this thread and will be getting my list for his (my...lol) final selections.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:00 AM   #240
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Sounds good. Let us know what items you went with. I will say that I am happy with the sub I have, but it is not an exact fit. Apart from trimming out the 'C shape' and other fins, I also heated up a section of the factory sub box. I did this so that I could create more room to allow the sub I purchased to fit. I am only telling you this due to that if you are going to run a separate mono amp for the sub, then the sub I purchased would be a great option. For as much as I like the little extra thump I am getting from the stick amp. I could be getting so much more, and kinda wish I was.

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