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Old 08-14-2013, 07:40 AM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louczar View Post
First off, nice thread!!! I just bought my son a 2002 wrangler and we have been doing all the maintenance on it from the axles up. That being said...

I did not know the jeep had a sub in it. His stock deck is semi functional (at best). I see where the sub should be. No surprise there is no sound coming out of it at this time. I will help him (me do the work and let him watch and learn) to update his stereo and speakers. His deck will have to be replaced!
From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub
This leads me to my questions...

From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub?

The amp has a proprietary interface to the stock deck (not a standard RCA out to normal amps)?

I will be installing a new deck, speakers (in dash and sound bar), sub and a small bridged mono amp that will have to have a built in crossover if the stock amp will have to be replaced with the deck. Everything will be of a proper size to fit in existing stock space.

I have looked at lots of the links from this thread and will be getting my list for his (my...lol) final selections.
Yes the stock amp is in The subwoofer box along with the sub. It is powered by the rear speaker leads. Unless he is looking to win competitions I would say just stick with the stock amp and the 1 ohm kicker that I listed previously. I run a stock head unit and that sub has plenty of bump. I did an install this past weekend for uponone, another forum member. I did the dash speaker brackets from Nalin (also a forum member) with the 5 1/4" in the dash and 6.5" in the soundbar with an aftermarket Kenwood head unit. His thumps way more than mine does due to the higher powered head unit. Let me know if you have any questions or need wiring help. If the sub was not installed originally you will have to build a wiring harness likely. My jeep and uponones jeeps are older and did not have the option for a sub when they were built but we both got our hands on the newer consoles and got them wired up and working.
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Old 08-14-2013, 10:00 AM   #242
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His stock deck is almost completely non functional. The CD player does not work and the volume / power control arm is broken internally. The only way to try to adjust the volume is to use pliers on pull on the volume arm to turn it. It doesn't really work well as turning it clockwise will increase and decrease the volume. We got it set to a nominal level and use the 3 band EQ to adjust the volume up and down at this point

Until I take the console apart, I wont really know if he has a sub / amp in it or not. That was why I asked about the stock amp being proprietary to the stock deck.

If the stock amp is getting its input from the rear speaker wires, then that would not work well when I replace the deck that has (what I believe) will be an amplified output to the speakers (unless it is designed that way). You could probably add some info on that part with the experience you have with the system.

As I am typing this, I am wondering about what you said that the stock amp is getting its inputs from the rear speakers in the stock config. Using the rear speaker outputs from the new deck to the existing amp ( if it is there and if it is possible) may have an effect on the impedance on those channels in combination with the new sound bar speakers I plan to install. Amps typically use low level inputs. If this amp can use amplified inputs to drive, I dont expect it to affect the impedance of the rear speakers. But if it does and depending what type of impedance in would introduce could cause an issue with the new deck outputs. Paralleled resistance with the new speakers would change the 2 rear channel impedance. If the 4 ohm impedance is changed to a higher value, the new deck would not drive as much power to the sound bar speakers. If it is lower value, the 2 rear channels of the new deck would be driving harder and possibly cause heat / failure problems. I cant say for sure that this would happen. Most of the new decks only specify the output wattage and do not specify the expected impedance levels. In the past they have been 4/8 ohm.

Sorry for the long thought process. I'm just trying to think about all the variables that will / may come into play when we upgrade...

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Old 08-14-2013, 10:33 AM   #243
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Well I'm not as audio savvy as others so hopefully they will chime in. I can only tell you that from personal experience, and doing that other Jeep for uponone, and what many others here have done, you will have no issues with the setup that I described. I do understand enough to know that not having the proper ohm rated speaker for an amplifier can cause it to heat up and eventually fail. As far as what impedance the factory radio and other aftermarket head units put out I do not know. Again I have personally installed two of these "stock" subwoofer setups with the kicker and had no problems thus far. I have been runing my sub for nearly a month already with no issues.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:01 PM   #244
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Thanks again for the feedback! I am looking more into it and talking to some old audio junkies here at work. They are very divided on using an amplified output from the deck to the original amp. The only other variable is that the THD would be amplified by the stock amp. That shouldn't be a major issue having the frequency cut off for the correct range of a sub.
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:51 AM   #245
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Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I went with the Bazooka sub and it's like night and day.
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:11 AM   #246
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Bump!

Thank you for this thread. On the first page it mentions that the gray wire is negative and the brown one positive. Saved me a lot of time! I bought a cheap $30 sub box at AutoZone and installed one of the speakers. If someone wants to pick up the other and you live in the area, let me know.





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Old 05-25-2016, 11:05 PM   #247
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+1 to the OP on a very helpful thread. Just replaced the stock SW (blown) with the same found on Amazon for $20. Not a killer system but fine for me. My next audio upgrade is a head unit that does bluetooth.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:26 PM   #248
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Subwoofer Speaker Repair

I hope this is new info, as there are an awful lot of previous posts.

I acquired my 2005 LJ a few months ago, and am just now making some audio updates when I discovered my subwoofer was toast. I thought it was the amp until reading this thread, which caused me to actually check the speaker. As apparently most have found, the speaker is prone to failure.

Both coils in my speaker were "open", not technically blown, because the failure was due to fatigue of the wire between the voice coils and the speaker terminals. Apparently, the wire they used can't take all the movement, and it eventually breaks.

I managed to fix both coils by bridging the open circuits with a short jumper. It required some fairly delicate soldering, but nothing too technical.
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:53 PM   #249
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Originally Posted by s3nt3nc3d

Cancel your order if you still can...pick up the Pyramid listed in this write-up on Amazon.com and wire it in as suggested. Tape off the two wires you don't use to prevent any shorts. I did this recently and the $20 Pyramid sub sounds SOOOO much better than the factory sub, even when it was still working good. The modifications you need to make to fit the sub in are minor and super easy to do.

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Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
This ^
Ditto! The detailed instructions are the ticket! I just noticed the video tonight AFTER my install. But didn't even need it. It took maybe 2-2.5 hours and that was eating dinner in between ha! I paid about $15 WITH shipping on Amazon. I have the factory head unit and speakers (only had my LJ a couple of months), and you can hear the music with doors off and top off no problem. I can even pump up the bass to +8 where I had been running it at -8 lol (and had the rear speakers faded to the max to try and eliminate the rattle from the blown sub as much as possible. Thanks a million Rogue!!!
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Old 07-01-2016, 12:05 AM   #250
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Originally Posted by Rogue View Post
This evening I replaced the blown factory subwoofer in the center console of my 2002 Jeep Wrangler with the Pyramid WX65X 6.5" subwoofer from Parts Express online. The subwoofer with shipping only costed about $27.

I was skeptical about the replacement performance without using an additional amp, but the thing sounds wonderful! The job is simple and took me about 2 hours (that includes coffee, breaks, dragging tools out, putting tools up, and chasing my puppy around the house...)

For my Jeep, I found that the factory brown wire should connect to the positive terminal, and the factory gray wire should connect to the negative terminal of the new Pyramid sub.

Now don't get me wrong, it is not a show quality bass system, but it sounds 100% better than the factory setup, and it will rock your behind! My factory sub's cone was unattached all the way around from deterioration...

Anyway, just wanted to let you guys know that this mod does work, and you do not have to spend $400 at a dealership for the replacement stock unit, nor do you absolutely have to spend $300 + on amps and speakers...
Thanks so much for the detailed write-up. Works like a charm! And only $15 on Amazon. Can't beat that!
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:03 AM   #251
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Thumbs up Thanks Rogue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue View Post
This evening I replaced the blown factory subwoofer in the center console of my 2002 Jeep Wrangler with the Pyramid WX65X 6.5" subwoofer from Parts Express online. The subwoofer with shipping only costed about $27.

I was skeptical about the replacement performance without using an additional amp, but the thing sounds wonderful! The job is simple and took me about 2 hours (that includes coffee, breaks, dragging tools out, putting tools up, and chasing my puppy around the house...)

For my Jeep, I found that the factory brown wire should connect to the positive terminal, and the factory gray wire should connect to the negative terminal of the new Pyramid sub.

Now don't get me wrong, it is not a show quality bass system, but it sounds 100% better than the factory setup, and it will rock your behind! My factory sub's cone was unattached all the way around from deterioration...

Anyway, just wanted to let you guys know that this mod does work, and you do not have to spend $400 at a dealership for the replacement stock unit, nor do you absolutely have to spend $300 + on amps and speakers...
Thanks again for this thread. I just replaced my sub (again) following your instructions in my "new" TJ and it went off just as easily as it did the first time in my old TJ.


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