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Old 01-28-2010, 08:49 PM   #1
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Replaced My Blown Subwoofer!

This evening I replaced the blown factory subwoofer in the center console of my 2002 Jeep Wrangler with the Pyramid WX65X 6.5" subwoofer from Parts Express online. The subwoofer with shipping only costed about $27.

I was skeptical about the replacement performance without using an additional amp, but the thing sounds wonderful! The job is simple and took me about 2 hours (that includes coffee, breaks, dragging tools out, putting tools up, and chasing my puppy around the house...)

For my Jeep, I found that the factory brown wire should connect to the positive terminal, and the factory gray wire should connect to the negative terminal of the new Pyramid sub.

Now don't get me wrong, it is not a show quality bass system, but it sounds 100% better than the factory setup, and it will rock your behind! My factory sub's cone was unattached all the way around from deterioration...

Anyway, just wanted to let you guys know that this mod does work, and you do not have to spend $400 at a dealership for the replacement stock unit, nor do you absolutely have to spend $300 + on amps and speakers...

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Old 01-28-2010, 08:55 PM   #2
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nice work man.
this will solve lots of jeeper's problems.

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Old 01-28-2010, 09:03 PM   #3
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Yeah, I hope so. I almost bit off on buying an amp and new speaker for about $350. My buddy just spent $300 replacing his speakers and amp. I hope he won't be too awful mad with me! LOL.
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Old 01-29-2010, 12:03 AM   #4
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how did the sub fit into the factory enclosure???
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:43 PM   #5
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Perfectly. You basically remove your old speaker with four screws, test fit your new one (same diameter), and you will find that you have to trim out the plastic "fins" on the inside of the enclosure that are arranged in that funny "C" shape. Hard to describe, but these "fins" sit just underneath the bottom of your speaker. I had to trim them down just a hair with my dremel so that the speaker would fit flush. Then I drilled four new holes and screwed it in. Works like a champ.
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Old 01-29-2010, 05:10 PM   #6
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Nice! Mine never had a sub, but it has the sub console.... Might have to do this.
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:51 PM   #7
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Yeah, it was a fairly easy and inexpensive mod. If anyone needs help with it, please feel free to ask. I think there may be a few forums out there on it as well. It is more than enough for me, but for those who love the strong base it may not be sufficient. Then again, most folks with Jeeps I know do not have a large amp with a back full of speakers...

I was just amazed at the quality of a $13 subwoofer!!

Hey, InfernoGirl, my '02 looks like your '01! Sienna Pearl!!!
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:14 PM   #8
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Cool, post up a pic or 6........
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:13 PM   #9
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I have a 2006 TJ with a dead sub in there, wanted to replace it - do you happen to have a resource for instrcutions on how to take these consoles apart so i can get to the sub? Im stuck so far...

Thanks!

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Old 01-30-2010, 03:05 PM   #10
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InfernoGirl, I will post some pics later today!

Jeepmanct, we can walk through this install with no problems sir. Note that this was in my 2002 Wrangler, so your Jeep may be a bit different. You can grab a Haynes manual for about $18 at Autozone to walk you through removing body parts like the console.

1-Get yourself and your tools ready (flat screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench and extension, a couple of torx bits, dremel, drill, bits, etc.; lock your dog in her kennel with food and water so that she does not terrorize you while you are trying to concentrate; plenty of COFFEE).Make certain we are in Park and the parking break is on for safety you know! Turn on some good music on the shop radio and sip some coffee.

2-I removed my passenger door and slid the passenger seat fully to the rear in full tilt to give me more room to work.

3-Remove those rubber cup holder liners in front of the console and in the rear. This should expose two bolts in the rear cupholder and one in the front.

4-Remove front bolt (10mm socket) and rear two bolts (torx 30).

5-Carefully work console out from under front tabs (plastic tabs will break so be careful) of shifter cover and work it out and ease it over into passenger seat (there is a wiring harness attached to it that we will remove next).

6-Unhook electrical harness by sliding red lock to the side and unplugging by pressing white tab. Study it for a minute so that you understand how it works without breaking it.

7-Once the harness is unhooked, the console should slide right out of the vehicle.

8-Take it to your workbench and empty the junk out of the top of it (old granola bars, pens, pencils, old insurance cards, and the pocket change).

9-Look inside console from the top and find two screws, remove them both, I think they are phillips head.

10-Flip console over and study how those shiny gold metal brackets are held in place by the plastic posts. There are two silver "star" washers pressed onto the posts holding tension on the brackets. They have to be CAREFULLY removed, or we will break the plastic posts. Sip some coffee here, and take a deep breath as you need a ton of patience here. Gently pry the tabs of the star washers back with a small flathead screwdriver and needlenose pliers to remove them. Don't force them or you WILL break those plastic posts.

11-Once the star washers are removed, flatten them back out as we have to reuse them; I just pinched them with my plilers to flatten them out again; set them to the side and take a deep breath. Almost there!

12-Lay the console on the side with speaker up, and remove the three screws holding the enclosure in place; these are phillips head as well.

13-Slide speaker/amp enclosure out of the center console. Get some cleaner and carefully clean out the inside of the console and the outside of the enclosure. My Jeep's previous owner had a major soda spill that was all over everything here...

14-Remove the old subwoofer by using a torx 15 bit; there are four torx screws holding it in. Also get a flathead screwdriver and pry it out because it is held in place with sticky tape. Do not damage wiring harness here! Once removed, examine factory subwoofer and marvel at the huge tear around the cone = BLOWN!

15-Look inside of enclosure and you will see some fins molded into the plastic just underneath where the speaker mounts; the central part has a semi circle "C" type look to it. These will have to be trimmed down some so that our new Pyramid will fit flush in the enclosure. Test fit new sub carefully to see this. Use caution with new sub as we don't want to damage its cone!

16-Carefully trim these fins down without cutting any wires. I used a dremel tool with a heavy duty cutting disc. Trim a small amount, clean it out with a shop vac, and test fit the new sub. Once it fits flush we are good!

17-Examine wiring harness and determine which wire is positive and which is negative; on my 2002 Jeep, the brown is positive, and the gray is negative. We will only use one set as we have a single coil sub as opposed to the factory unit's dual voice coil setup. This will change on certain year model's I am sure. A search on Google or a call to a local speaker shop may help you determine this. I had to solder a smaller connector on one of my wires to get it to fit snugly on the Pyramid, but that was no problem. I cut the connectors off of the unused wires and taped them with electrical tape to the main harness so there would be no shorts.

18-Once wired, check again to make sure you hooked it up properly, and test the unit by laying console in passenger seat and reconnecting harness to make sure it works. Be careful as the speaker is not fully mounted yet and you don't want to damage it!

19-Once we ensure it works, we need to mount it in the enclosure. Make sure the wires are routed with no interference, and lay your new sub in the enclosure. The mounting holes will not align so we need to drill new ones. Use a 3/32" bit (I think; compare it to the screws and make sure) to drill four new mounting holes using caution around the new sub; protect that sub with your hand as you don't want to run a drill bit through that cone!!!

20-Remove speaker and blow out any plastic debris.

21-Install speaker making sure wiring is connected properly, and routed properly; tighten four mounting screws (T15) only until snug. We are working in plastic and don't want to strip it out!! Be CAREFUL here!!

22-Sip more coffee and admire your pretty new speaker!

23-Reinstall enclosure into center console carefully while protecting speaker from damage. Reinstall star washers onto plastic posts; reinstall three screws on grille side of console; reinstall two screws in tray on top inside of console. Tighten only to snug, don't overtighten!

24-Reinstall center console into Jeep; remember to hook up harness and fasten red safety fastener on connector. Careful not to break any tabs here! Reinstall 10mm bolt in front cupholder, torx 30 bolts in rear (2) cupholder, and replace rubber cupholder liners.

25-Check your work and make sure no parts/fasteners are left out. Clean up tools and mess. Sip coffee.

26-Turn on radio and enjoy the no fuzzing blown speaker sound.

Again note that you are not installing an aftermarker amp with this unit so you are not driving it to its fullest potential with the factory mini amp, but it will sound 110% better than the blown factory unit, and we ARE on a budget with this project!!

Seriously, I hope this helps! Let me know how it works, and please ask any questions if you have them!
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:48 PM   #11
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InfernoGirl, pics are posted under a new thread - "Pictures of 2002 Jeep TJ Fender Flare Mods". Thanks.
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:58 PM   #12
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nice write up rogue!!
thanks for being the "guinea pig" on this one, like i said, its gonna save A LOT of people some money
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:11 PM   #13
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The more I drive it, the more I like this mod! Again, it is not the aftermarket 300 watt amp with 15 inch subwoofers, but it works well for what I use. I do hope it saves some folks some cash.
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:18 PM   #14
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you would not happen to know the wattage of the stock amp would ya???
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Old 01-30-2010, 05:13 PM   #15
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I am not positive, but I was told that the stock subwoofer is a 2 ohm (dual voice coil) wired to show the amp 1 ohm of operation. Supposedly, it receives about 75W from the amp. Adding the 2 ohm conventional subwoofer cuts that into roughly half.

Does that sound about right?
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Old 01-30-2010, 05:34 PM   #16
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from what i know that sounds right too me, but im not an expert at this stuff.
thanks man.
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Old 01-31-2010, 02:50 PM   #17
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Thanks alot, I've been looking for a few months (not real hard though) and read your post. I've just got done buying the same subwoofer from the place you bought yours. With your detailed instructions, I'll have it in very soon. And will be rockin and rollin Thanks James
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:15 PM   #18
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I was looking through a catalog that Parts Express sent with the Pyramid speaker and found that they have adhesive foam tape for properly sealing the mounting lip of the subwoofer to the enclosure for about $7 a roll, and a type of filler stuffing to put inside of speaker enclosures to decrease resonance and increase sound quality.

Anyone ever used the stuff? I might try it...
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:44 PM   #19
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my ? to anyone is - my jeep has the sub and amp (never worked since ive owned it about 4 months) i just took it out and unknown to me there is a huge 4 channel amp under the back seat hooked up - i unplugged the power to it and i have no sound through any of my speakers - plug it in and sound. if i replace the sub with a good one will i only have to hook up the speaker part and not the little amp part? or should i hook it up on both sides (i.e red and black along with the brown and whatever other color it is)?
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:35 PM   #20
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Sounds like they did what my buddy did and bypassed the factory subwoofer/amp and installed a new amp to increase the volume of the other speakers...

You can trace the wiring harness of the sub/amp back and see if everything is still hooked up I suppose? Any ideas anyone??
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:36 PM   #21
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I also found out today that Parts Express offers speaker repair kits to repair blown speakers with a cone seal and adhesive, but they cost more than the Pyramid sub...
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:29 PM   #22
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my ? to anyone is - my jeep has the sub and amp (never worked since ive owned it about 4 months) i just took it out and unknown to me there is a huge 4 channel amp under the back seat hooked up - i unplugged the power to it and i have no sound through any of my speakers - plug it in and sound. if i replace the sub with a good one will i only have to hook up the speaker part and not the little amp part? or should i hook it up on both sides (i.e red and black along with the brown and whatever other color it is)?
im not fully understanding, are you gonna hook up your new sub to the stock amp or the new amp?
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:52 AM   #23
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im not fully understanding, are you gonna hook up your new sub to the stock amp or the new amp?
ok i took the old one out that never worked. it was hooked up with red and black (im assuming that is the factory amp) and brown and gray (im assuming thats the speaker wire + -) if i put a new sub in the encloser should i hook it up the same way or leave the red and black unhooked since the amp i found under my seat is hooked up to the soundbar speakers and front speakers? i have no idea why the huge amp is there it is a 4 channel 1200 watt amp he probably had a system in it at one point. i would like to take it out and sell it to some bass head kid but it is all wired up to the radio and i have no clue how to hook everything back up factory style.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:13 PM   #24
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i would solder those two wires like rogue did if i were you. i did not know that the stock amp that powers the stock sub actually powers the other stock speakers as well. it should not because my stock sub fuse was unhooked for a while but my speakers still worked.
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:11 PM   #25
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I did find these in my searches for the DVC 6.5 " that may work for the sub console--- they are on the pricey side....

http://www.keeaudio.com/bazooka.html
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:22 PM   #26
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found another one--looks a little better deal in price... these are by Audiopipe

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=390079763729
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:30 PM   #27
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i would solder those two wires like rogue did if i were you. i did not know that the stock amp that powers the stock sub actually powers the other stock speakers as well. it should not because my stock sub fuse was unhooked for a while but my speakers still worked.
I don't think the stock amp powers the speakers in the Jeep...if you're referring to VisionJinx's post bout the factory speakers not working when he unhooked the amp under his backseat, that's because all the speakers had been rewired through that amp and were no longer running off the headunit's built in amp.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:49 PM   #28
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I used to have a couple of these in my old truck...well, the ones I had were the precursors to these, since I bought some of their limited prototypes/test run models.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=33

I'm not sure if they will fit without extreme modification...but if anyone would be willing to try it out and post a write-up about how to go about it, I would be very interested in following that thread. For such a tiny subwoofer...they could hit HARD!
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:17 PM   #29
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yeah i figured that the speakers had their own separate power source.

vision, are you planning on using the stock amp for the new sub, because if you are you should do just what rogue did because the amp under your rear seat and your speakers have no affiliation with your new sub and stock amp?
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:19 PM   #30
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I do have one concern tho.. as if you are only driving one channel of the amp and not the other-- there could be some damage to the amplifier in the long term-- depending on how the amp is wired/built.. Driving an amplifier unbalanced can torch some fet's and/or differential amplifier circuits..

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