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Old 10-10-2013, 07:35 PM   #31
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Also that link you posted says those speakers are discontinued....

Just out of curiosity what's the JLaudio speakers those seem to be very popular

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Old 10-10-2013, 11:02 PM   #32
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Wow you guys have been AWSOME!! Such great help throughout the whole thread!!!!

So didn't like your 8500? Because I was thinking about getting that instead of the app radio 3.....
I wouldn't buy any stereo that doesn't have a removable face.
Not only because, Jeeps are open vehicles, or have plastic windows, but because radio theft is really bad.

If you buy a aftermarket stereo without a removable face, you are just buying it for the next crack head car stereo thief looking for a car stereo to supply his drug habit.

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Old 10-10-2013, 11:20 PM   #33
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Also that link you posted says those speakers are discontinued....
Yeah, I noticed that just now. When I posted it a few days ago, there was a price and it wasn't discontinued. Maybe they didn't update their website. I can call tommorrow and find out if there is a replacement. Sometimes, they have a newer model and the older model is discontinued. You can call and ask if they have a convertible CDT 6.5 speaker. I'm noticing that there is another model and its the CL-61CV. I wonder if this is the replacement?

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Just out of curiosity what's the JLaudio speakers those seem to be very popular
Do you have a link? It is best to hear the speakers before you buy them, unless you are familiar with the brand such as Infinity, Polk, Kicker, etc..

I heard the CDT before I brought mine. The store also promised me a 2yr. warranty on them.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:56 AM   #34
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I see everyone throwing around names and stuff, in my recently purchased 14 i took the top off and as i was expecting, i was disappointed with the sound, i went to a well repu. shop a few towns over and talked it out, he pushed Apline type R''s. Years ago i used alpine in an Eclipse i had, and i had no issues and rather enjoyed them.

1) Alpine still a good way to go, or avoid them now ?
2) 6.5 Components for the front, what are in the Over head?
3) Sahara premium sound, whats the size of the sub in the back?

forums search feature is rather dismal.
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:38 PM   #35
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I see everyone throwing around names and stuff, in my recently purchased 14 i took the top off and as i was expecting, i was disappointed with the sound, i went to a well repu. shop a few towns over and talked it out, he pushed Apline type R''s. Years ago i used alpine in an Eclipse i had, and i had no issues and rather enjoyed them.

1) Alpine still a good way to go, or avoid them now ?
2) 6.5 Components for the front, what are in the Over head?
3) Sahara premium sound, whats the size of the sub in the back?

forums search feature is rather dismal.
1) I've heard people on this forum say good things about the Alpine type R speakers, although I haven't actually heard them.

2) I think he said coaxials in the sound bar overhead, but I'm not sure.

3) I think he said he doesn't have a sub right now, so maybe he doesn't have the premium sound package. Good question though. The details of his current sound system really wasn't mentioned, and it is important.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:58 PM   #36
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Also that link you posted says those speakers are discontinued....
I spoke with CDT yesterday, and one of their referred authorized distributors today.
The distributor said that they have the CDT Audio CL-61CV. So far, their quoted price is the lowest that I have seen. This is the 6.5 convertible speaker. It can convert to component or coaxial , and it is rated at 160wattsRMS.
CDT Audio CL-61CV

This is the link for the distributor. They also said that CDT could make you a couple pair of the CL-6CEX, if the price for the CL-61CV is a little too much for you. They quoted $159 for the CL-61CV. I would ask about the tweeter crossovers too. The last price that I saw for the CL-6CEX was about $130, with the tweeter crossovers. You can call them from their website about the speakers and prices. I hope this helps.

http://www.513electronics.com/
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:30 PM   #37
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ChasUGC, thank you for the opportunity to speak with you about these speakers. We spoke today over the phone. I had to do a bit of Google searching after we discussed these speakers.

My name is Barry, and I work for a CDT Audio dealer. We're Easy Way Electronics, and we've been in the same location since 1979. We're involved in CDT's online sales program, and we're currently listed as their Midwestern online dealer. I've sent an e-mail to the owner of CDT regarding the CL-6CEX coaxial component speakers. They're not listed on our price sheets and I suspect I may not be able to get them as CL-61CV is only 159.99 plus a small shipping fee. It does not make sense to have 2 speaker sets with nearly identical specifications at nearly the same price. However, I have promised a response once I hear an answer from CDT.

I hope this is not overstepping my boundaries, but I'd like to briefly share something we offer that you may not know about CDT Audio brick and mortar dealers. CDT sells all of their speakers a la carte, meaning you can buy just a pair of tweeters, or any other type of speaker, if you'd like. We use that to our advantage along with our extensive hands-on experience and product knowledge to offer custom spec'd speaker sets. We recently mailed a 3-way front speaker system to a 2013 JK owner who intends to build the dash speakers into vented pods for 6.7" midbass speakers. He will be using 2" mid/tweeters and 1.1" wide dispersion tweeters in customized A-pillars. CL-6EX coaxials will be placed in the soundbar. The subwoofers are not yet decided, but he's considering CDT 10" or 12" shallow subwoofers. He's an accomplished fabricator, specializing in carpentry and fiberglass, so I expect his vehicle to look and sound wonderful when it's complete.

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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I spoke with CDT yesterday, and one of their referred authorized distributors today.
The distributor said that they have the CDT Audio CL-61CV. So far, their quoted price is the lowest that I have seen. This is the 6.5 convertible speaker. It can convert to component or coaxial , and it is rated at 160wattsRMS.
CDT Audio CL-61CV

This is the link for the distributor. They also said that CDT could make you a couple pair of the CL-6CEX, if the price for the CL-61CV is a little too much for you. They quoted $159 for the CL-61CV. I would ask about the tweeter crossovers too. The last price that I saw for the CL-6CEX was about $130, with the tweeter crossovers. You can call them from their website about the speakers and prices. I hope this helps.

http://www.513electronics.com/
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:22 PM   #38
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I got a response from CDT regarding CL-6CEX. They do still have it. However, you will get a better sounding set with CL-61CV for the additional cost equal to a lunch for two adults. For us and for you this is a no-brainer to keep it simple and go with the better set.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:30 PM   #39
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heres what i did with links to everything, i did not install myself, i had it done. Didnt pay over $700 saved so much from buying it all through Amazon..EVERYONE asks me what i did to my sound system. Its LOUD, the 1 10" sub in an open trunk F*#*@$ bumps, its clear, with the top down its even better, and its affordable. I could not be more satisfied with what i went with, In Best Buy or Audio stores, these speakers are $100 per set. heres everything i needed and bought..

Pioneer Speakers
Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-A1675R 6-1/2" 3-Way TS Series Coaxial Car Speakers: Car Electronics

Boss Kit (i bought 2 because i installed 2 amps, 1 for sub, 1 to make the speakers SCREAM)
Amazon.com: Boss KIT-2 Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit: Car Electronics

Boss amp for sub
Amazon.com: Boss Audio R1100M Mosfet Monoblock Power Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Car Electronics

This little bad dog which will do ALL you need, 10" kicker
Amazon.com: New KICKER 10TC102 10" 300W Loaded Car Audio Subwoofer + Sub Box Enclosure TC104: Electronics

Rockford Fosgate amp for speakers
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate Prime R300-4 300-Watt Multi-Channel Amplifier: Car Electronics

4 channel Hi-Lo converter, because i didnt want to change my headunit mainly because my jeep is a 2011 and i think aftermarket headunits tend to look tacky in newer models,
Amazon.com: 4 Channel High to Low Audio Level AMP RCA Converter AP3044 Factory Radio HI LO: Home Improvement

Hope this helps you, Best of luck!
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:44 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by trumpet View Post
I got a response from CDT regarding CL-6CEX. They do still have it. However, you will get a better sounding set with CL-61CV for the additional cost equal to a lunch for two adults. For us and for you this is a no-brainer to keep it simple and go with the better set.
Thanks for all the wonderful information. I guess we're waiting for the OP's response.

But, it seems that the CL-6CEX comes with the tweeter crossovers and it is convertible just like the CL-61CV. The CL-61CV does not come with the crossovers. For fidelity sake, I think its probably better to have the crossovers.

It is great that you took the time to respond to my inquiry online and at the very thread that I was trying to help a fellow Jeeper. Now, that he has your name maybe he will follow up, and get the best speakers for his money.

I have two pairs of 5.25 version of these speakers. And, I think they are awesome. I have been cranking them for three months now, and they show no signs of giving out. Their flat response sounds flat and smooth, giving you a great baseline. Their EQ'd response is awesome, sharp and clear, especially on the highs.
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:09 PM   #41
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But, it seems that the CL-6CEX comes with the tweeter crossovers and it is convertible just like the CL-61CV. The CL-61CV does not come with the crossovers. For fidelity sake, I think its probably better to have the crossovers.

CL-6CEX comes with the most basic tweeter crossover. It's cheaper to build and consequently the set is cheaper to buy. CL-61CV comes with the HD-2500 12 dB crossovers. In this photo the crossovers are the slim shiny black objects at the bottom.


Quote:
It is great that you took the time to respond to my inquiry online and at the very thread that I was trying to help a fellow Jeeper. Now, that he has your name maybe he will follow up, and get the best speakers for his money.

I have two pairs of 5.25 version of these speakers. And, I think they are awesome. I have been cranking them for three months now, and they show no signs of giving out. Their flat response sounds flat and smooth, giving you a great baseline. Their EQ'd response is awesome, sharp and clear, especially on the highs.
You're welcome. The bottom line is we would not be able to keep doing car audio at this business if it wasn't for the customers and the rewarding experiences along the way. CDT has been very supportive of us as a dealer and the products have been spectacular.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:15 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by MikeZagurski View Post
heres what i did with links to everything, i did not install myself, i had it done. Didnt pay over $700 saved so much from buying it all through Amazon..EVERYONE asks me what i did to my sound system. Its LOUD, the 1 10" sub in an open trunk F*#*@$ bumps, its clear, with the top down its even better, and its affordable. I could not be more satisfied with what i went with, In Best Buy or Audio stores, these speakers are $100 per set. heres everything i needed and bought..

Pioneer Speakers
Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-A1675R 6-1/2" 3-Way TS Series Coaxial Car Speakers: Car Electronics

Boss Kit (i bought 2 because i installed 2 amps, 1 for sub, 1 to make the speakers SCREAM)
Amazon.com: Boss KIT-2 Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit: Car Electronics

Boss amp for sub
Amazon.com: Boss Audio R1100M Mosfet Monoblock Power Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Car Electronics

This little bad dog which will do ALL you need, 10" kicker
Amazon.com: New KICKER 10TC102 10" 300W Loaded Car Audio Subwoofer + Sub Box Enclosure TC104: Electronics

Rockford Fosgate amp for speakers
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate Prime R300-4 300-Watt Multi-Channel Amplifier: Car Electronics

4 channel Hi-Lo converter, because i didnt want to change my headunit mainly because my jeep is a 2011 and i think aftermarket headunits tend to look tacky in newer models,
Amazon.com: 4 Channel High to Low Audio Level AMP RCA Converter AP3044 Factory Radio HI LO: Home Improvement

Hope this helps you, Best of luck!

I always do a lot of research before I buy anything, regardless of the cost. If I can't afford it, I really don't look at it. Below is what my research has found.

You are aware that the Pioneers 6-1/2" speakers are only 50watt RMS, and cranked, with the top off, will probably blow out with even the 60watt amp. Although Rockford Fosgate has a good reputation in car audio, I would be really hesitant to get an amp where the company website fails to provide the THD, which is critical to the quality of the amp. An amp at high volume and high THD will easily blow speakers. Also, these speakers are Coaxials and the OP needs Components in the front at least. This is why I recommended the same speaker, with great handling capacity, that can do both coaxial and components, and would sound awesome with four of the same speakers.

Then, you have the two amps with much less power output, high power draw, and higher cost than say the Power Acoustic Gothic 5-Channel amp(100watts per channel +500 watts sub channel). The two Class A/B amps are going to draw much more power than the Class D amp. And, a Class D amp is known to be better sounding than the older Class A/B tube amps. The top of the line probably being the Alpine PDX-V9(100watts+500watts) which I purchased to replace my Power Acoustic Gothic Amp. (Thanks to referrals on this forum)
Both the Power Acoustic Gothic amp and the Alpine PDX-V9 readily give the THD which is less than 1%,
and both are Class D amps.

As far as power, there is no comparison to 60watts+250watts or in the actual case, 60watts+115watts vs. 100watts+500watts. The alleged 250watts of the Boss is highly contested based on customer voltage measurements.

On my system, I went with four 110wattRMS 5.25 CDT ($90/pr)speakers paired with the 100wattx500wattsub channel Power Acoustic Gothic amp at $150 dollars.
Later, I replaced the PAG with the Alpine PDX-V9. This is because of a problem that I had which was not related to the Gothic Amp. I later fixed that problem. Although, I got a slightly better amp, I wasted $300 dollars.

Then, I added a 450watt RMS, MTX Audio Thunderform JWTJ97T20-T45, which has two 10"-MTX subwoofer speakers.

My HU has built-in GPS, 1%THD, 7" flip screen, removable face, bluetooth, AUX front and back, USB, and SD card slot.

I also added in a 7-band Clarion EQ to fine tune my fidelity output($50).

My system was about $700 not including the later additions, or the HU which I already had.

Of course, I did a ton of research, before I started my upgrade.

If the OP went with two sets of CDT's @$300, and a power acoustic Gothic amp 5 Channel Amp@ $150, I think he is ready for a super powerful, great sounding, sound system. And, at this point we are only talking about $450 dollars.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:37 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by ChasUGC View Post
I always do a lot of research before I buy anything, regardless of the cost. If I can't afford it, I really don't look at it. Below is what my research has found.

You are aware that the Pioneers 6-1/2" speakers are only 50watt RMS, and cranked, with the top off, will probably blow out with even the 60watt amp. Although Rockford Fosgate has a good reputation in car audio, I would be really hesitant to get an amp where the company website fails to provide the THD, which is critical to the quality of the amp. An amp at high volume and high THD will easily blow speakers. Also, these speakers are Coaxials and the OP needs Components in the front at least. This is why I recommended the same speaker, with great handling capacity, that can do both coaxial and components, and would sound awesome with four of the same speakers.

Then, you have the two amps with much less power output, high power draw, and higher cost than say the Power Acoustic Gothic 5-Channel amp(100watts per channel +500 watts sub channel). The two Class A/B amps are going to draw much more power than the Class D amp. And, a Class D amp is known to be better sounding than the older Class A/B tube amps. The top of the line probably being the Alpine PDX-V9(100watts+500watts) which I purchased to replace my Power Acoustic Gothic Amp. (Thanks to referrals on this forum)
Both the Power Acoustic Gothic amp and the Alpine PDX-V9 readily give the THD which is less than 1%,
and both are Class D amps.

As far as power, there is no comparison to 60watts+250watts or in the actual case, 60watts+115watts vs. 100watts+500watts. The alleged 250watts of the Boss is highly contested based on customer voltage measurements.

On my system, I went with four 110wattRMS 5.25 CDT ($90/pr)speakers paired with the 100wattx500wattsub channel Power Acoustic Gothic amp at $150 dollars.
Later, I replaced the PAG with the Alpine PDX-V9. This is because of a problem that I had which was not related to the Gothic Amp. I later fixed that problem. Although, I got a slightly better amp, I wasted $300 dollars.

Then, I added a 450watt RMS, MTX Audio Thunderform JWTJ97T20-T45, which has two 10"-MTX subwoofer speakers.

My HU has built-in GPS, 1%THD, 7" flip screen, removable face, bluetooth, AUX front and back, USB, and SD card slot.

I also added in a 7-band Clarion EQ to fine tune my fidelity output($50).

My system was about $700 not including the later additions, or the HU which I already had.

Of course, I did a ton of research, before I started my upgrade.

If the OP went with two sets of CDT's @$300, and a power acoustic Gothic amp 5 Channel Amp@ $150, I think he is ready for a super powerful, great sounding, sound system. And, at this point we are only talking about $450 dollars.
Yeah, and i think also everyone does different things. Theres thousands of ways you could go, and not saying mine is the best or even top of the line at all. But for me, it sounds awesome and makes me jeep even sweeter to me. I couldn't be more satisfied personally, but everyones different!
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #44
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Yeah, and i think also everyone does different things. Theres thousands of ways you could go, and not saying mine is the best or even top of the line at all. But for me, it sounds awesome and makes me jeep even sweeter to me. I couldn't be more satisfied personally, but everyones different!
I agree. As long as it works for you, and you are happy with it, that is all that matters. Just keep Jeepin'.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:56 AM   #45
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This has turned out to be a great thread not only for me but for everyone who is looking to do some audio work to their jeeps.

So with that being said after many hours if research and visiting multiple car stero shops in my area I have purchased all of my equipment 😁

Just one question when I'm running my speaker wire from my amp to my speakers is there some speaker wire that is better then others? Or is it for the most part all the same and I can just take a ride down to RadioShack and get a spool of speaker wire
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:33 PM   #46
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This has turned out to be a great thread not only for me but for everyone who is looking to do some audio work to their jeeps.

So with that being said after many hours if research and visiting multiple car stero shops in my area I have purchased all of my equipment 😁

Just one question when I'm running my speaker wire from my amp to my speakers is there some speaker wire that is better then others? Or is it for the most part all the same and I can just take a ride down to RadioShack and get a spool of speaker wire
There is a lot of information online about speaker gauge wire. Everyone is going to have a different opinion. It could be cause for a big debate. But, I'll tell you my opinion.

1) I don't like butt connectors. They add resistance. I prefer to twist the wires together, and crimp them with the clear connectors.

2) Different size wires also add resistance. If you have a certain gauge on your harness, I would stay with that gauge. Larger gauge gives less resistance, but different gauges create resistance. My professional installer used a larger gauge, and then wired to my harness which has a smaller gauge. I removed all of that. I bypassed my harness completely. I wired with larger gauge directly to my amp, from my speakers. Instead of wiring with large gauge to my smaller gauged harness, and then with large gauge from my harness to my amp, using butt connectors in between as the professional installer did. It seemed like a big resistance mess with the mixmatched gauges and the butt connectors. But, this is the way most professional installers do it to say money on the speaker wires. But, it adds the possibility of shorts and high resistance causing your amp to work harder and get hot faster, IMHO.

There is also information about using larger gauge over 50 feet length. But, I don't think any of our car speaker wires go over 20 feet, so this shouldn't matter.

Here's a thread about speaker wire gauge with good information.

Speaker wire: How to choose the right gauge and type
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:56 PM   #47
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Personally I use kicker or nvx hyper flex wire. I love the flexibility and true to size features. I use it for both power and speaker wires. For an amped system I like to use 14 gauge direct from the amp to the speaker when possible. I also only use crimp connectors at the speaker if they don't have compression terminals. I like to use un insulated terminals with heat shrink.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:47 PM   #48
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The bigger the wire the better. Do not go less then 14 gauge unless you use a true copper wire which is double the price of cc wire(copper clad aluminum) If you need a bunch of wire KNU concepts is a good place to grab wire and they ship fast. You could go to home depot and get some 14g home audio wire from the big spool by the foot. Its got a white jacket on it and its all copper. Most likely carrel wire. Its not as flexible as cca wire. I do not know if you plan on getting the interior of your jeep wet or not, if your not you can make some nice mounting brackets for amps under the front seats. There are small plates under the seat that sit off the ground that make a nice place to mount. I would do a BIG 3 upgrade on your jeep. That is upgrading the ground and alt wire going to your battery. Google big 3 upgrade. Heat shrink everything remember your jeep is open when the top is down keep the elements out of your connections. If your using the speaker housings put some sound deadening material in them. there are a lot of companies out there second skinn and raam mat are good and you get what you pay for. dynamite is over priced. I am in the middle of doing a entire system in my wife's new Sahara. I modified the factory sub enclosure and am making custom kick panels for a 6.5 down by your feet. It will all look stock and the sound is light years ahead of the factory. I did a pioneer avic z140 and image dynamics sub with morel speakers. 2 amps one for the sub and one for the from components. I am running the rears of the head unit and I will replace them with a modest pair with good sensitivity. I plan on having the fader mostly to the front. I have been building car audio systems for 20 yrs if you have any questions pm me.. Good luck
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:48 AM   #49
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WOW THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP ChasUGC! So for those CDT speakers does that company make tweeters that will work in the wrangler?
Check this out, Sounds Bitchen ( KICKER SOUNDGATE ). http://youtu.be/98_8pXl7Dx0
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:58 AM   #50
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Check this out, Sounds Bitchen ( KICKER SOUNDGATE ). Kicker Soundgate Powerstage System Overview | Crutchfield Video - YouTube
I don't think they get it. You can't decently amplify the stock speakers, when the stock radio is already blowing them out. And, they give no power ratting whatsoever. I think that video was made for someone who knows absolutely nothing about car audio beyond the "thump".
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Old 10-26-2013, 02:42 PM   #51
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I don't think they get it. You can't decently amplify the stock speakers, when the stock radio is already blowing them out. And, they give no power ratting whatsoever. I think that video was made for someone who knows absolutely nothing about car audio beyond the "thump".
I think the dude's on commission, he's busy trying to sell the benefits of this package in the main JK forum as well.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:37 AM   #52
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I don't think they get it. You can't decently amplify the stock speakers, when the stock radio is already blowing them out. And, they give no power ratting whatsoever. I think that video was made for someone who knows absolutely nothing about car audio beyond the "thump".
The issue here with factory radios that rely on a tiny chip amplifier is distortion. No factory radio I'm aware of will let you turn the volume up to the upper limit without vastly exceeding the distortion a properly tuned aftermarket amplifier will create. When you connect an aftermarket amplifier to the speaker outputs of a factory radio that distortion is still present, but you can tune the new amplifier to get to your desired loudness with an order of magnitude less distortion. The radio volume needs to stay below whatever level is determined to create too much distortion. This is why we can install an aftermarket amplifier into a factory original sound system and improve the sound quality, even with the stock speakers.

I recommend having a trained professional perform this upgrade. Even with distortion held in check on a new amplifier the factory speakers are still limited by how much heat they can dissipate.

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