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Old 05-12-2012, 07:08 AM   #1
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Strange problem after stereo upgrade

So i buy a new 12 unlimited sport and put an amp, new speakers and a sub in. Standard head unit, no nav. JBL 504 ez amp, Polk db speakers, and a sound ordance powered sub.
Heres the prob....the amp cuts out while driving, but only once your going over say 35mph....then turns back on once you slow to 20mph!
I cant pull over to see what the light on the amp is doing cause its under my seat. I bought everything from crutchfield and have called them, but they didnt have too many ideas. I will call them again.
The amp has line outs on it. I cut my speaker wires behind the head unit, spliced new wire and ran the new wire to the amp. the amp uses speaker source for turn on. 12 volt wire direct from bat, ground right to lug on floor.
Only the amp cuts out...not the sub. So far i have switched terminals on bat where the 12 v was, changed to a remote wire turn on, changed the ground location, and disconected the sub. I am now really pissed and at a loss of what to do next. Any sugestions would be apprecitated. I will be in and out most of the day, so do not take my lack of responce as ignorance. Thank you.

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Old 05-12-2012, 11:32 AM   #2
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Just checked out the specs on that amp, and I like it! Very cool stuff!

Just a thought...
When you changed to remote wire turn-on, did you flip the switch on the amp to turn off the auto turn-on feature?
And what did you hook the remote turn-on wire to?

That's the only thing I can think of,
Unless the amp is afraid of speed???

P.S. Only as a test, you can jumper the main power to the amp into the turn on lead and go for a drive to see if the turn on source is the culprit.

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Old 05-12-2012, 12:07 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. Yes I flipped the switch. I just ran the remote to the fuse block under the hood. 12v power for the acc outlet. I didnt want to cut into anything in case it wasnt the prob. My neat install looks like an 8 year old did it now! Its driving me nuts. Its a reverse speed sensitive voulume.
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #4
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That is a totally crazy problem.
I still suspect the turn-on source.
The only way that could happen is somehow the vehicle computer is killing power to the circuit.
I still suggest temporarily feeding the amp turn-on with straight battery juice and go for a spin. That will tell you for certain if the culprit is the turn-on source or something else. Process of elimination.

Either way, please post up what you find.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:34 AM   #5
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Initially I would have thought maybe (and I stress maybe) you used the sound bar speakers as input and MAYBE at a certain speed the HU pairs down the voltage to those speakers for a noise safety? Grasping here really.

Otherwise check the amp ground location and make sure it is a good ground. I am at a loss otherwise.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:36 AM   #6
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You should have used a line-out converter instead of speaker wires in.
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:34 PM   #7
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I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet, the sun was out for a change and i need to get other things done. One of the selling points of the amp was that i didnt need the LOC, was trying to keep it as simple as possible. It uses all four speakers for the input. Hopefully i will have a chance to playwith it later, i will post results.
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:36 PM   #8
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An amp with speaker turn on reduces the need for a LOC. One less thing to have to wire up.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:10 PM   #9
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Trust me, I've been a car audio professional for 20 years....RCA's are a much better than speaker line in. The speaker wires will work, but the signal is junk.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:57 PM   #10
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Oh I agree. I wouldnt do it any other way. But if your limited on skills, wire signals are easy.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
Trust me, I've been a car audio professional for 20 years....RCA's are a much better than speaker line in. The speaker wires will work, but the signal is junk.
X2, RCA all the WAY! The signal is shielded so better pure sound. Trust him, he builds em BIG And I as well have been in Electronics for 27yrs. If they only did Optical, and Mag amps. Man that would be BombDiggity
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:31 PM   #12
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Before you start tearing your work out any more, try this. Disconnect the right rear speaker leads at the amp, set the speaker leads aside, and drive. Did the music go away? Yes? Then reconnect the right rear speaker and disconnect the left rear speaker, and try again. Did it go away again? Then reconnect and disconnect the right front, and then, the left front. If at some point the music does not go away, then you may have a speaker shorting to ground or to itself, or the leads are shorting. The vibration of the truck may cause it to drop out at higher speeds, and then the amp protection circuit takes about the same amount of time it takes you to slow down in order to reset. If that doesn't do it, we'll try something else. BTW, that is the exact same amp that I have, and it works perfectly w/o LOC's because they are BUILT INTO THE AMP.
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:35 PM   #13
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ummm an LOC isn't built into the amp lol
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:25 PM   #14
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Ok, so I spent a good bit of time today messing with it and I think i got it fixed. I can't explain what the actual problem was but i can tell you what i did. As we know, the amp is wired direct from the speaker wires. Well i ran the powered sub from the RCA output on the amp to the input on the sub. I have no explanation why, but when it would cut out, i reached under and pulled the rca out and it came back on. I ran a temp line to the hi side on the sub and it worked perfect. So i fixed all the wiring up and it has been fine. Maybe someone smarter then me could explain what the problem was. I'm not sure if it is the amp or the sub with the problem. Thanks for the sugestions and input. Americonium, I was doing the speaker wire deal, and when that didnt do anything i pilled the rca.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:54 PM   #15
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ummm an LOC isn't built into the amp lol
You are correct sir, I should have been pulled over for a "TWI", thinking whilst intoxicated.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Delo1605 View Post
Ok, so I spent a good bit of time today messing with it and I think i got it fixed. I can't explain what the actual problem was but i can tell you what i did. As we know, the amp is wired direct from the speaker wires. Well i ran the powered sub from the RCA output on the amp to the input on the sub. I have no explanation why, but when it would cut out, i reached under and pulled the rca out and it came back on. I ran a temp line to the hi side on the sub and it worked perfect. So i fixed all the wiring up and it has been fine. Maybe someone smarter then me could explain what the problem was. I'm not sure if it is the amp or the sub with the problem. Thanks for the sugestions and input. Americonium, I was doing the speaker wire deal, and when that didnt do anything i pilled the rca.
I set up the same way, and the amp went into protection immediatly. I did the same as you and got it to work. I didn't recognize your problem because you said it only did it when you started driving, where as mine would cut out immediatly. Glad you got it to work.

The output sees an unbalanced impedance to the sub amp and shuts it down. That's how it was explained to me, however, that could be wrong.

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