Got a few questions here... I've been dreaming of doing an LCG build but am having trouble figuring out how to go about things.

I came across these fenders from Metalcloak (http://www.metalcloak.com/Jeep-Wrang...der-p/2214.htm) and they claim you can fit 35" tires with NO LIFT. I can see how that's possible with the front since you're replacing the fenders, but how does this work for the rear? What are they leaving out? Am I going to need to take a reciprocating saw and hack the everliving crap out of the tub or what?

Also I know the rest of this is kind of covered elsewhere...but I want to keep it simple for me to reference it later when I scrape the cash up...may be a year or two due to some majorly unexpected expenses coming up.

What am I missing when it comes to doing an LCG build with 35's the right way?

Metalcloak Fenders

Cragar Soft 8 Wheels w/ 4" BS

Upgrade the brakes--I figured if I upgrade to a premium pad like the EBC Yellows in the front and just make sure the rears are adjusted properly I'll be good to go.

Upgrade to a stronger tie-rod/steering setup (just need a good quality tie-road such as a Currie or another reputable brand...or is there more to it than just the tie-rod?)

Regear for the 35's - hopefully install selectable lockers or Detroit TrueTracs (I see a lot of snow and ice here in Ohio) at the same time.

I have the D44 rear so I think I'm fine up to 37's aren't I? What else am I missing? If I go that route, I may add a 1" BL and 1" MML just to get a little more tire clearance if necessary, but I'd love to do this with no lift as long as I'm not going to sacrifice flex in the process. Once this Jeep is paid off...I want to get into wheeling it so I want it done right the first time and not half ass it until it becomes my trail rig.

Thanks folks!

I have also looked at their stuff. In the rear they offer a standard flare and a cut out. The cut out you have to remove some of the tub. Not much.

Going to 37" tires is going to be difficult without a Dana 44 front. With the Dana 30 the lowest you can go is 4.88. That is what I am running with 35's.

Thanks for that info...didn't even think about that D30 being an issue, but that's okay...I think 37's is getting a little insanely big for an on and off road vehicle. It'd be cool...but not as practical as I'd want it to be. lol

There is NO way I'd run 37" tires with a stock D44. Or any D44 for that matter.

A friend of mine has an 06 golden eagle on 37s with a 30 up front and a 44 out back and has been wheeling it for years without a problem. He has put lockers in both and aftermarket axle shafts in both. It can be done its just a little scary for me.

Are you speaking front or rear? And not to hijack, but what do you plan on running as a front on your rig? I thought I read somewhere that you are in the process of upgrading everything for 37s?

check these out:

1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ Fitting 35s - Jp Magazine

No Lift 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ Rear Tires Fitting - Jp Magazine

you may want to consider a 2 inch spring or adjustable front spacers to help with the added weight of tube fenders
also, if you are going for a low rig, high clearance armor is a good idea, and with most high clearance stuff, you need a BL and MML any ways

To correctly fit any large tire, 35s and up I think you'll need to do a little cutting in the rear. It isn't much but it'll come out clean and match up with the opening of the metalcloak flare

LOVE EM! THEY ARE ON MY LIST TOO!

(hopefully ill have them before 2 years )

Going to order mine this summer

The second poster is correct. The rear corners they offer come with a bigger opening and they're made for being able to run 35 inch tires with zero lift. You will have to trim the tub some. 35" tires will be fine for the street and light wheeling. However, MC recommends that if you plan to wheel it harder, then you get at couple more inches of lift for additional clearance. 37 would probably fit as well, but you'd rub going over speed bumps.

My buddies jeep with the overline fenders hes runnin 36 inch tires on a 4inch lift from fabtec

Sent from my SGH-T959 using WF Access

I wouldn't run 37s on the rear D44. A front D44 (built, not stock) should be alright with 37s. A D60 front and a Corporate 14 bolt rear or another D60 would be my choice for running 37s on up.

I'm building mine for 37s, but, like you, I decided to go with the Ford 8.8
Superior makes that Super 88 kit that'll make running 37s feasible, and I'm still deciding on what I want to run in the front. I've been looking at a Currie HP D44 for the front, and that's probably what I'll end up running. If I wanted to go bigger than 37s, I'd definitely find some full-width 1-tons for the front/rear. There's a million different ways to build a rig.....some will say it works for them, others will say it won't. My rig isn't a daily driver (except for this week with all the snow), so it doesn't really matter how stupid I want to get with it. It's pretty tame at the moment. Still collecting parts.