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Sub in a non-sub console?

14K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  zimi117 
#1 ·
I have a 98 TJ and am looking to add a sub to the non-sub OEM center console. I have a sony cdx-gt400 headunit with sub preouts for an amp. I would like to know if im headed the right direction with the products I am thinking of choosing. Also if anyone could tell me the best way to go about building this, I would also appreciate it. Not looking to win a contest with bass, just need some bass lol.

THE LIST:

SUB- Amazon.com: Kicker 10C104 Comp 10-Inch Subwoofer 4 Ohm (Black): Car Electronics

AMP- Amazon.com: Pyramid PB717X 1,000-Watt 2-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier: Car Electronics
 
#3 ·
I did this conversion, but I used a 6.5" sub in the stock plastic insert that I got off a guy on here. You will need a custom box for 8" or 10". I put an amp in the insta trunk In the back of the jeep so its safe from weather and theft. I ran the wires under the carpet to my radio, the battery, and the new sub. The old plastic insert has 4-5 little plastic tabs that are pretty hard to get off. Once that was off, I took the new insert and put it in. I found that the center consoles that different year jeeps had different size center consoles, because I have a 2002 and the subwoofer box insert is too small. It leaves room to fit maybe even a jacket, but little things can easily fall down between the box and the wall of the center console.
So if you build this, I would suggest making a box to fit. This was you can fit a 8" or 10" and it will sound and perform a lot better. I can post a picture of my setup if you would like
 
#4 ·
I also wouldn't get that amp. Cheap company and cheap price. Most good quality amps like alpine, dual, or Kenwood (there are many more) are like $150 for 500 watts. I would be worried about my components being powered by a 1000 watt amp for $50... Sound quality is probably also lacking. Read some of the 1 star reviews..
 
#5 ·
Look at the RMS wattage...it isn't anywhere near 1,000 watts RMS. It may work okay for your use. If I were doing a cheap build, I'd consider it. But if you're looking for quality, I'd go with something better.

I have a HiFonics amp powering 2 10's in my Jeep...mine was defective, but $128 shipped for a 1,000 watt monoblock amp, I was like screw it...I'll use it til it blows. Most people have no problems with them though. I'd recommend one...best bang for the buck.

Even had my audiophile buddy hook it up and he was like, "Wow..this is really good quality for such a cheap amp! And the output is clean!"
 
#6 ·
s3nt3nc3d said:
Look at the RMS wattage...it isn't anywhere near 1,000 watts RMS. It may work okay for your use. If I were doing a cheap build, I'd consider it. But if you're looking for quality, I'd go with something better.

I have a HiFonics amp powering 2 10's in my Jeep...mine was defective, but $128 shipped for a 1,000 watt monoblock amp, I was like screw it...I'll use it til it blows. Most people have no problems with them though. I'd recommend one...best bang for the buck.

Even had my audiophile buddy hook it up and he was like, "Wow..this is really good quality for such a cheap amp! And the output is clean!"
Yeah hifonics is supposed to be good. Setup I went with was a mtx shallow mount ten I am running of a bridged 2 channel amp. Low power but sounds nice. I need a bigger amp however.
 
#7 ·
You can modify the storage pocket (I'm assuming your center console has the white plastic pocket under the lid for storage?) An 8" slimline sub fits nicely. Best way to do it is remove the console, drill out the rivits holding the inner pocket to the console, fabricate a top piece from MDF to seal the hole and epoxy it to the inner pocket, line the outside of the inner pocket with Dynamat, cut the hole in the side for the sub and put some polyfill in the enclosure, reinstall inner pocket to console, done! I used sheetmetal screws instead of rivits to reinstall the inner pocket back to the console...

I lined the MDF lid with ozite carpet....

My 03 console had the grill cutouts, so you may have to drill some holes for the speaker....
 
#8 ·
Interesting, I did a similar thing, but I just bought the center console insert from a guy on here. It probably has better pressures inside than the white, stock pocket because when you push on the white insert vs pushing on the black insert, the black one is much thicker and probably doesn't flex nearly as much with bass, although im not really sure if it matters...
Heres mine :
 

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#11 ·
zimi117 said:
Kenwood would be a much higher quality amp. Impossible to know if its good for you until you pick out a subwoofer. You will want to find a subwoofer with a Max power to be as close to your amp output as possible. Never get a sub rated for less power than your amp puts out because you could blow it... For instance if I have a 300 watt output on my amp, I need a speaker that can handle 300 or more watts.

This amp, like many others don't truly give out the 350 watts they advertise. The true output for one channel of this amp is 150 watts, so take that into consideration. Again, you can get a 500 watt speaker, it just won't perform as well as a speaker that was maybe rated at 200 watts
 
#12 ·
Between the sub you have chosen in the first post, and the kenwood amp, I would say its a perfect combination for what you want.

Kicker 10C104 Comp 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
The link above shows the RMS rating for the sub at 50-150watts RMS.

Kenwood KAC-1502S 2-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 2 at Crutchfield.com
The link above shows the amplifier to provide 150watts RMS.

Good thing that the amplifier has a Low Pass Filter integrated into the unit, but its unfortunate that you couldnt adjust the filter. Its set statically to 80hz, which really depends on the music you like. It should be alright for you.
 
#13 ·
ok i pulled the trigger. 143.22 with a wiring kit to my door. Just need to figure out how I am going to get that 10" to fit in my console. It looks like it shouldnt be too hard. Like I said I have the full console with no sub in it. I have a good starting place I hope. :eek:
 
#14 ·
Just curios....what size wiring kit did you go with? 8awg will work, but i'd recommend 4awg for both power and ground. Hopefully it also came with an inline fuse holder and fuse.

I think your doing great so far. I guess its time to Nut up or shut up. :) Let us know how it goes!
 
#17 ·
Thats exactly the kit I used! mine is only for a 50RMS x 4 channel amp and it works great. The RCA cable in there is actually really nice! now the power cable is actually slightly smaller the 8awg, more like 9 or 10 with lots more insulation. But still works great. I put my amp underneath the driver seat. But for the amp you chose, I highly recommend installing it under the steering column in the dash. Ill see if i can find that post for you.
 
#18 ·
Rpkittle said:
Thats exactly the kit I used! mine is only for a 50RMS x 4 channel amp and it works great. The RCA cable in there is actually really nice! now the power cable is actually slightly smaller the 8awg, more like 9 or 10 with lots more insulation. But still works great. I put my amp underneath the driver seat. But for the amp you chose, I highly recommend installing it under the steering column in the dash. Ill see if i can find that post for you.
Interested in seeing this
 
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