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Old 04-08-2014, 06:24 PM   #31
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Automatic 4door on tall 35s. But I do have a relatively light weight set up. Light bumpers and no rear seat. I imagine that you will win because of the torque to pull you through the gears better. The RIPP has a nice smooth powerband, but no real snap off the line. I'm not looking to try to win bragging rights, just more curious than anything. haha
Ohh ok, for some reason I thought you were a 2dr?

I'd be curious to know too lol

Guy I bought it from said he would toy around with his buddy's ripp'd 3.8.

Hemi and the 37's are most of my weight. All the armor, bumpers, carrier are all aluminum. By no means is it light but I can definitely roast 37's off the line

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Old 04-08-2014, 06:56 PM   #32
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Ohh ok, for some reason I thought you were a 2dr?

I'd be curious to know too lol

Guy I bought it from said he would toy around with his buddy's ripp'd 3.8.

Hemi and the 37's are most of my weight. All the armor, bumpers, carrier are all aluminum. By no means is it light but I can definitely roast 37's off the line

Hmmmm. I can't exactly squeal the tires off the line, but it has nice pull all the way up to redline. Not exactly something that comes in handy in a Jeep, but it's surprising how drivable it is on the trails and in 4lo. This should be an interesting comparison!

Soooooo jealous of the aluminum armor. Do you have any larger pics that you can post?

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Old 04-08-2014, 08:07 PM   #33
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Whatcha wanna see?
Genright Alu carrier and bumper


Genright Alu stubby & poison spyder rocker knocker in Alu
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:09 PM   #34
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Ok I kinda lied I guess not all my armor is aluminum. I just ordered a river raider engine/Trans skid in steel.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:27 PM   #35
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Very nice looking Jeep, buddy!
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Old 04-09-2014, 02:19 PM   #36
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Well... Heard back from Jim today and my driveshaft is toast. Cv is bad too apparently.

So 400 to fix or 360 for a new one.
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Old 04-09-2014, 02:39 PM   #37
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Well... Heard back from Jim today and my driveshaft is toast. Cv is bad too apparently.

So 400 to fix or 360 for a new one.
So it took a week just for him to tell you what's all wrong with the ds?
Not bashing. ..just clarifying
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:23 PM   #38
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So it took a week just for him to tell you what's all wrong with the ds?
Not bashing. ..just clarifying

I'm guessing they did what they could and it wouldn't balance.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:48 PM   #39
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what drive shaft are you going with?
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:32 PM   #40
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So it took a week just for him to tell you what's all wrong with the ds?
Not bashing. ..just clarifying
He sent it out to whoever builds his DS and they said the double cardan cv deal was going bad

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I'm guessing they did what they could and it wouldn't balance.
He did say they could repair it, and it would be a thicker tube with a thinner OD.
But at $400

Or whatever he can get brand new for $360?
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:58 PM   #41
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He sent it out to whoever builds his DS and they said the double cardan cv deal was going bad



He did say they could repair it, and it would be a thicker tube with a thinner OD.
But at $400

Or whatever he can get brand new for $360?

Not only because of the price, but seems like a new item is always safer than a rebuild.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:37 PM   #42
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what drive shaft are you going with?
Not sure what he sells. Maybe B1000 can comment?

Does he use all spicer/dana parts? $360 isn't a bad price but cheap china chit DS's ain't goin on my Heep.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:21 PM   #43
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I need some opinions before I get all bent outta shape and get mad for nothing.

Took Jeep Solutions my drive shaft to "fix" my old shaft. Shaft was beyond repair, so I was quoted $360 for a new shaft.

Go to pick up new shaft (and old one), and was charged $430. Which also included $15 for shipping!! Lmao never bought anything from a shop and got charged shipping before but whatever... I ate the cost and walked out with a smile.

Fast forward a few weeks later, finally get my front end on and the jeep back on its feet and get all my caster/pinion angles set. So it's time to throw on the new DS.

Slid it in, bolt it up to the TC and begin to slide it out to the front yolk... Slides out and by the time it's all snugged up at ride height not only are splines showing, but the part where the splines get bigger pop out thru the seal... Ok doesn't look right to me but here it is.




I decide to leave it in, drive it to work for a few days and it runs smooth. No vibrations, no issues except for it "looking" to short at ride height, and I haven't had a chance to flex it out yet so I'm not 100% sure how much it actually moves in n out.

So yesterday I decided to swing by Jeep Solutions and ask Jim if he could come take a look and tell me what he thinks. He crawls under it and says well it looks like it's ok but doesn't know how much spline is left on the DS. And proceeds to tell me "well if it is too short your gonna have to have it lengthened" and I paused. Kinda surprised about what he said I told him I'd figure out what I'm working with first.

This is what I got.

Almost 6" of splined shaft total, looks a lil off from the pictures but that's what I got. So at ride height I've got a little over 2" of splines in the shaft maybe 2 1/2".

Is this acceptable??

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Old 05-08-2014, 09:23 PM   #44
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Actually just realized there's less than 2" inside the shaft... I forgot to account for the seal.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:56 PM   #45
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I hate to say this bud...but it looks to short.
How did he come up with the length for the new shaft..?
Did he ask you (and till you how) to measure for the new ds.?
Or did he take a measurement off your old shaft. .?
Either way it doesn't sound like he going to help you out on this...
I feel your pain bud.
One more question. ..I know you've been doing some work to your jeep..did you change the ride height after the purchase of the new ds.?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:10 PM   #46
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I hate to say this bud...but it looks to short.
How did he come up with the length for the new shaft..?
Did he ask you (and till you how) to measure for the new ds.?
Or did he take a measurement off your old shaft. .?
Either way it doesn't sound like he going to help you out on this...
I feel your pain bud.
One more question. ..I know you've been doing some work to your jeep..did you change the ride height after the purchase of the new ds.?
He did not ask me for any measurements, he actually had the old shaft the whole time. He kept telling me yesterday that "well it's made for a jeep with 3"-6" of lift."

From the looks of things he just ordered a shaft. Never saw any splines on the old shaft.

It did change... Lowered about 1/2" from where it sat on the 4" coils.

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Old 05-08-2014, 10:25 PM   #47
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He did not ask me for any measurements, he actually had the old shaft the whole time. He kept telling me yesterday that "well it's made for a jeep with 3"-6" of lift."

From the looks of things he just ordered a shaft. Never saw any splines on the old shaft.

It did change... Lowered about 1/2" from where it sat on the 4" coils.

Man...what a business man. Sounds to me that he's telling you it's yours and apparently he doesn't want anymore of your business. ...what an Ass!
Good thing you lowered the jeep...it really would've been short.
He should of had you measure the distance between the axle yoke and the TC yoke..that's a must... Because not all 3 to 6" lifts and or jeeps are the same.
This is the number one reason to go to a DS shop.
Man...sorry bud.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:32 PM   #48
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If you need help with this I have a guy in Victorville. I can give you his number...I know it's a bit of a drive for you but he does excellent work and will do the work while you wait or go get a bit to eat.
Just about everyone up here in the desert as him build their shafts.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:32 AM   #49
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Thanks man, appreciate it. I may take you up on the offer but first I need to talk to this guy and see what he's gonna do.

My problem is that I am a very impatient person with a short fuse... And I really hate getting fucked around.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:05 AM   #50
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I know its a pain in the ass, but to check it right you'll need to pull the rear c/o's and check droop and stuff. I feel your pain. I went through this with my shortened driveshaft with my D60 install. The shop said they work with Currie and do plenty of shafts for my setup and would have zero issues. Fortunately for me I cycled everything and checked first to find the driveshaft an inch too long at full droop. I know if I'd of hit the trail and screwed up my TC, they'd of blown me off. Of course the 2nd trip back didn't make me too happy, but happier than a busted TC.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:53 AM   #51
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I know its a pain in the ass, but to check it right you'll need to pull the rear c/o's and check droop and stuff. I feel your pain. I went through this with my shortened driveshaft with my D60 install. The shop said they work with Currie and do plenty of shafts for my setup and would have zero issues. Fortunately for me I cycled everything and checked first to find the driveshaft an inch too long at full droop. I know if I'd of hit the trail and screwed up my TC, they'd of blown me off. Of course the 2nd trip back didn't make me too happy, but happier than a busted TC.
Yeah I'm gonna check it tomorrow with a forklift at work. Easier to flex it out with a lift than pull coilovers
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:05 PM   #52
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Thanks man, appreciate it. I may take you up on the offer but first I need to talk to this guy and see what he's gonna do.

My problem is that I am a very impatient person with a short fuse... And I really hate getting fucked around.
Hey no problem bud...If and when you need it I had posted all the info to Johnny Beez awhile back in this thread in POST #4.
I hope you get this all resolved in a time matter bud.
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:46 PM   #53
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Yeah I'm gonna check it tomorrow with a forklift at work. Easier to flex it out with a lift than pull coilovers
Good luck.
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:34 PM   #54
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Fully stuffed looks a little to short to me. 1.5-2" longer and I think it'd be perfect.

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Full droop

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Old 05-10-2014, 06:36 PM   #55
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Now for the fun shots!





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Old 05-12-2014, 01:30 PM   #56
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I hate to bash anyone but I went to see Jim about a year ago with my vibrations at 55-60 mph. Jim told me that because I have an automatic with overdrive that the overdrive was cycling on and off causing my vibrations. I knew then that I would never be calling him back.
Not for sure but I think he uses Powertrain Industries in Garden Grove for all his driveshaft work. Hence the $36 shipping charge.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:05 PM   #57
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I hate to bash anyone but I went to see Jim about a year ago with my vibrations at 55-60 mph. Jim told me that because I have an automatic with overdrive that the overdrive was cycling on and off causing my vibrations. I knew then that I would never be calling him back.
Not for sure but I think he uses Powertrain Industries in Garden Grove for all his driveshaft work. Hence the $36 shipping charge.
Unfortunately I'm having the same experience.

When I was talking to him last week he said he'd have to get it on the lift and see it at full droop to see how much it pulls the shaft apart. I thought to myself wouldn't it suck it in at full droop? I mentioned it and he said flat out said nope, full droop would be it's longest point.

Rest assured he will never see another cent from me. I'm just curious if he's gonna be willing to help me out on getting it lengthened.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:07 PM   #58
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Rest assured he will never see another cent from me. I'm just curious if he's gonna be willing to help me out on getting it lengthened.
Not if he reads this ^.
Of course, he's been there a long time, has a few jeeps (and others) in the yard, wants his customers to be satisfied, wants a good reputation, especially on local forums, so, he may work with you. But, your post above, about lengthening, says it's going to cost you.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:22 PM   #59
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Not if he reads this ^.
Of course, he's been there a long time, has a few jeeps (and others) in the yard, wants his customers to be satisfied, wants a good reputation, especially on local forums, so, he may work with you. But, your post above, about lengthening, says it's going to cost you.
Well that's the only way to make it right... Unless he wants to get me a new one that's the correct length. I honestly hope he does make it right, it's not right for me to pay for his mistake.

I have a feeling I'm gonna have a front driveshaft for sale here real soon. I'm almost 100% sure this will fit most other jeeps, it's the hemi that threw him a curveball and gonna cost for not asking for measurements... Even tho he had a shaft to measure.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:29 PM   #60
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Unfortunately I'm having the same experience.

When I was talking to him last week he said he'd have to get it on the lift and see it at full droop to see how much it pulls the shaft apart. I thought to myself wouldn't it suck it in at full droop? I mentioned it and he said flat out said nope, full droop would be it's longest point.

Rest assured he will never see another cent from me. I'm just curious if he's gonna be willing to help me out on getting it lengthened.
You're correct. Full droop is collapsed. It isn't a leaf spring rig. If he can't figure that out, I wouldn't have anything to do with him. I'm curious about the vendor as a bud bought a new shaft from a shop that installed his bolt on c/o's. He asked me to take a look at it before hitting the trail. Told him it was way too short. Who put it back together on gatekeeper at John Bull, yep me.

Make sure its right. Pull your lower c/o mounts and cycle it for measurements for another shop to lengthen it. I have the same EVO setup takes 10 min do the lower mounts. Not worth the hassle on the trail not to.

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