So my 35" MTRs are about kaput. Ready to buy another set but my husband keeps muttering "37s" under his breath. I know this is sacrilege- but I don't think I want them.
Clearly the pro here is I get a little more than an 1" extra clearance. We put 4" springs on Elvira and 35s look small. So 37s will bring her that extra size she needs LOL. But for those of you that went to 37s- is the difference THAT significant on the trail? How do they ride in comparison to 35s? A bunch of people seem to have up'ed to 37s here lately so I thought I'd get real world experience.
Since Elvira is still my DD- I am not sure ride, wear and tear are worth the extra inch. And I really don't care about Mpg- but if I get much worse I may need an extra tank behind me like the war rig from Mad Max. Also worried that my 4.56s, which I love now, will feel sluggish under all that extra rotational mass.
I have S&Gs and RCV axles on my D30. But it's still a D30. I have an upgraded track bar, driveshaft, flipped drag link, beefier brackets and mounts and everything else except ball joints. Which I know I'll need. PSC full hydro. Metal Cloak fenders so I won't rub.
So I CAN do 37s (I think) .. I don't plan to do anything more body-damage worthy than Big Bear, Parker or Rubicon. At least not unit it's paid off. For that reason, my ego aside, I am wavering.
Please don't flame me or take my Jeep card away.
At least I am not this guy....who is showing his Jeep. At Hot Import Nights.
Regardless of what axleshafts are installed, it's my strongest possible opinion that your D30/D44 axles are not up to 37's. No matter how you build them. If my f/r Dana 44 axles with CTM u-joints, Warn Big Hub kit, Black Magic Big Brake Kit, 30 spline Superior Axle Evolution alloy front shafts and Revolution Axle alloy rear shafts aren't up to 37's, neither are yours.
The problem is less the shafts and more things like ball joints, knuckles, axle tubes, diff housing, etc. that make 37" just too big to allow for long-term health of the axles. At least if you're doing trails difficult enough to where you need 37's.
I'm convinced those who brag about how they've been running 37's on those axles without problem are the same who barely push their Jeeps on easy to moderate trails and run 37's for looks.
I'm staying with my 35's and it's been pretty darned bulletproof. I'm not convinced it would remain that way for long if I installed 37's for the level of trails I enjoy.
I'm happy with 35s. They take me everywhere I want to go. 37s just seem like a headache with all of the stuff you have to do to get them on the Jeep and then maintain all of that stuff. I say stick with the 35s.
You should do what makes Elvira happy. You two don't go out all that often and when you do, your pretty reserved on your approach. Well except for dragging rocks at Mottino a couple years back You have S&G, RCV'S and when you need ball joints you can get them. Unless your lifting wheels off the ground and slamming the tires up and down you should be fine.
Axles are certainly a big concern. To which Adrian also says "upgrade!". Easy for him to say. But I am pretty conservative on the trail so I do wonder just how bad I'd beat them up. (I like that better than "wussy".) That Doubles for- if I am conservative I probably won't be where I'd need 37s to begin with.
Or I just stick with good armor and some crunching. As I have been known to do. (Thanks nick!) There are some light 36" Coopers out there...
The weight of the tire has nothing to do with it, it's the tire's diameter that is the concern. The larger the diameter of the tire, the more leverage it has against the drivetrain and axles. Not to mention the lighter the tire is, the less likely it is to withstand much trail damage.
I remember discussions just like these, but the numbers were between 33 and 35. And I'm sure they were even smaller back in the days I don't remember.
Then there was the time I was running 38's on my Dodge Ramcharger, which didn't compare to the 40's and 44's some were running on their Blazers and the Toyota minis.
I was really happy with the 35's on my TJ. It went everywhere I pointed it. Now that I am on a 4 door I found that the 37's mad things easier to get the belly over. But if I was still in a 2 door i'm not sure I would unless I was stepping up to a stretch and axles. I know that if I keep my jeep it will someday be on forays and ton's just cause. I agree with Jerry and your hubby. It you want to go bigger then do it right. You can sell the built 30 for a good price and do a nice upgrade along with some 37's. Why push it if you don't have to. It's not like you can't afford it.
Afford it? Eek! New tires due for Adrian's car... And my Jeep this year. I think his are more than mine but I don't want to ask.
I might have a lemonade stand at Calico. Spiked lemonade. But at least there are several companies offering upgraded axles at a more reasonable cost now. 37" tires aren't more expensive than 35s- but add in a new axle and end of story...
I do think you are right Gunner; 37s on a JKU seem more valuable than on JK.
Jerry- it's either the Coopers or the KM2s that are listed as "37"s but are more like 35.5 or 36". My tires are so worn on the edges that new 35s will probably look big anyway.
And ...hi Mark!
My 04 Rubi has rocked 35's almost from the beginning. It has done the rubicon 3 times and the Dusy once. Not to mention John Bull so many times it's crazy. Jeff just put it's 3rd set on it. Now it did break a stock rear axle shaft which is why they sold it to me. I added the sleeves and gussets as well as Chromos all around. I believe those are the small 44. But a TJ is lighter compared to a JK.
Jen, I just spent the day "mild" wheeling with 4 other jeeps and 3 of them had 37s (2 2dr JKs and a stretched TJ). I of course started thinking about 37s as well, but like Jerry says and you know, it has a ripple effect on the rest of the drivetrain. To do it right you need bigger axle housings and shafts etc. Two of the guys I was with put their 37s on stock axles and shafts and both bent their shafts. MANY JK owners do it and most of them don't ever wheel hard enough for it to matter and they tell everyone it's okay to do You and Adrian know more about Jeeps than the average Jeeper or you wouldn't even be asking the question. I'm sure you would take the needed steps in the process.
Do they look better with 37s? Hell yeah they do, but put new 35s on there and you will see the difference right away too. I made the decision to stay off the really hard stuff (for awhile) when I bought this jeep, if not I would have bought an LJ to build or further built my TJ. 35s will do 90% of the trails I want to do and so far that is working fine.
Am I saying you shouldn't get them? No. Will I help you on the trail if you break something as a result? yes. Will I give you shit for years to come? Yes
Jen, I just spent the day "mild" wheeling with 4 other jeeps and 3 of them had 37s (2 2dr JKs and a stretched TJ). I of course started thinking about 37s as well, but like Jerry says and you know, it has a ripple effect on the rest of the drivetrain. To do it right you need bigger axle housings and shafts etc. Two of the guys I was with put their 37s on stock axles and shafts and both bent their shafts. MANY JK owners do it and most of them don't ever wheel hard enough for it to matter and they tell everyone it's okay to do You and Adrian know more about Jeeps than the average Jeeper or you wouldn't even be asking the question. I'm sure you would take the needed steps in the process. Do they look better with 37s? Hell yeah they do, but put new 35s on there and you will see the difference right away too. I made the decision to stay off the really hard stuff (for awhile) when I bought this jeep, if not I would have bought an LJ to build or further built my TJ. 35s will do 90% of the trails I want to do and so far that is working fine. Am I saying you shouldn't get them? No. Will I help you on the trail if you break something as a result? yes. Will I give you shit for years to come? Yes
Gee, thanks?
I think I'll stick with 35s. I just don't want to make that "wish I had" mistake. You know, like starting with 35s. Returning them for 33s. Then getting 35s. Then getting.....35s.
Thanks for the input Oscar. I can't imagine turning 37s without hydro. Since I have PSV already that's one of the reasons I was considering 37s since I wouldn't have to do it. I work out- but not much. 😜😜😜
Oh forgot to mention....really the only con so far has been steering. Turning those beasts on the rocks is sometimes a PITA. I never force it, so a few "12-point" turns are required especially in Wall Street yesterday..lol. PSC here I come.
Jenn, your not that tall! Lol, I have a nice set of 35" MTR's with low mileage, Maybe I should sell them to you and put 37's on the pumpkin? Those curbs at the mall are getting taller these days
FYI..my tires on the G a couple months ago were 1,800. Sorry, Adrians will be a bit more (as your aware)
Going to 37s should entail: Prorock 44 or 60, gearing at 5.38 at a minimum if you want to keep stock performance, you're going to need a suspension lift to clear the tires, fender flares, and you should have a stretched wheelbase to compensate for the taller tires. It's only MONEY, MONEY...............
That being said I'm still running the stock Dana 44 and the first one lived 12 years RIP.... and there's a Spider 9 Gearworks 10" diff in the future. I'm the stretched TJ Bill is talking about.
I love 37's. Just seems to be the sweet spot for four door JK's they just look right. I think the amount of $$ you have into the D30 you almost could of paid for a prorock 44. I say keep the D30 till you find a great deal on a 44. Or save your pennies for a prorock
Great advice in this thread. I live in the OC and I'm starting to see more JK's & especially JKU's with 37's. However when I go take a closer look at them they don't look like they have been off road. Way too clean underneath. As for me and my Jeep, We'll stick with 35's!
If Adrian will buy you a D44 if you D30 breaks, then do it! You might be able to make it last if you take it easy.
Jeremy (knows Dan) is selling a JK D44 front for a good price. I think it has 4.88 gears though. You would be better off with 4.88 or 5.13, but 4.56 wouldn't be terrible.
If you have the green light, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
Or sadly- being able to see in the future. I think we'd all save money if we could do that. I really enjoy how it drives right now on 4.56s- I don't want to get a D44 AND have to re-gear. Tires might be roughly the same price...but that's too big a chunk of change when I think further. Of course everyone and their mother is doing aftermarket D44s now so maybe someday that will change. They're certainly going down in price. (When we did the S & Gs there were far fewer options and they were a lot more expensive). Plus, I figured I'd never want 37s so what was the point? There goes that "see into the future" thing again.
Sticking with 35s. There are plenty of people wheeling harder stuff than I do on 35s and even smaller. Like Bill says- a new set of 35s will look a lot bigger and actually have some tread on the edges. Helpful. I just need to be a better driver.
Jerry is right, stay on 35's until you change your axles. If and when I change my front axle, I will not even consider a Prorock 44. It just doen't make sense to me. A 60 will be my choice. If I do go to a dana 60, I don't think I will mess around with 37's, as 40's seen like a better choice. With that said, I think I will be on 35's for sometime. So far, I have been able to do any trail that I have wanted to do.
BTW, last trip to Parker, I had to tug an LJ on 37's a few times just to get him thru an easier trail we did. Tire size is not everything...
I have an idea that would get ANY 4 X 4 group to any OHV site- a "center of gravity" ride. They strap your Jeep to a couple of fork lifts and tilt you...until you "flip"- but you don't because your Jeep is strapped to the fork lifts. Think of it as "tilt-a whirl" but for Jeeps. It'd be awesome! Talk about learning your center of gravity! Anyone...anyone? Maybe someone will do it at the next Expo. I can't see any possible problems with that...
My husband cracks up- whenever I get even remotely tippy I lean sideways in my seat to correct the weight imbalance. 'Cuz that's gonna help. Kind of like sticking your leg out the door. I am a total wuss at tippy- you just need to learn your center of gravity but its hard when you close your eyes.
Like Jerry says. Drive by Braille.
I follow guys with half the jeep I have and they go places I fumble on. A lot of it is reading the trails and just plain knowing how to wheel. I am slowly learning.
So my 35" MTRs are about kaput. Ready to buy another set but my husband keeps muttering "37s" under his breath. I know this is sacrilege- but I don't think I want them. Clearly the pro here is I get a little more than an 1" extra clearance. We put 4" springs on Elvira and 35s look small. So 37s will bring her that extra size she needs LOL. But for those of you that went to 37s- is the difference THAT significant on the trail? How do they ride in comparison to 35s? A bunch of people seem to have up'ed to 37s here lately so I thought I'd get real world experience. Since Elvira is still my DD- I am not sure ride, wear and tear are worth the extra inch. And I really don't care about Mpg- but if I get much worse I may need an extra tank behind me like the war rig from Mad Max. Also worried that my 4.56s, which I love now, will feel sluggish under all that extra rotational mass. I have S&Gs and RCV axles on my D30. But it's still a D30. I have an upgraded track bar, driveshaft, flipped drag link, beefier brackets and mounts and everything else except ball joints. Which I know I'll need. PSC full hydro. Metal Cloak fenders so I won't rub. So I CAN do 37s (I think) .. I don't plan to do anything more body-damage worthy than Big Bear, Parker or Rubicon. At least not unit it's paid off. For that reason, my ego aside, I am wavering. Please don't flame me or take my Jeep card away. At least I am not this guy....who is showing his Jeep. At Hot Import Nights.
Jerry is right, stay on 35's until you change your axles. If and when I change my front axle, I will not even consider a Prorock 44. It just doen't make sense to me. A 60 will be my choice. If I do go to a dana 60, I don't think I will mess around with 37's, as 40's seen like a better choice. With that said, I think I will be on 35's for sometime. So far, I have been able to do any trail that I have wanted to do. BTW, last trip to Parker, I had to tug an LJ on 37's a few times just to get him thru an easier trail we did. Tire size is not everything...
I say you stay on 35's and when a few more of us are ready for another set of tires we can all go in on a group buy for 37's or 40's.. lol Did it have the horrendous looking "shovel" skid plate still? That thing is a major hang up point for the TJ body style
Someone once told me they tested the tipping point of a few jeeps by anchoring a strap to a jeep and attaching the other end to another jeep. They drove one jeep sideways on a steep hill to the point where it tipped. The strap attached to the other jeep kept it from going all the way over.
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