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Old 05-19-2013, 09:14 PM   #241
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Not entirely true. I just finished off the JK front Very Large Brake kit. Dual 54mm piston calipers, 13.25" massive rotor, new master, 100% bolt-on with Black Magic Brake pads.
The same as mine Blaine?

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Old 05-19-2013, 09:30 PM   #242
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The same as mine Blaine?
Yes and no. Yours is the kit for the Currie F-450 steering knuckle and uses the Dodge Ram 1500 dual 54mm caliper and matching rotor.

This new one is very similar in size, but is 100% bolt on to the JK steering knuckle with no modifications and no machined caliper bracket adapter. It bolts right up to the JK knuckle and fits the JK unit bearing but does not use any of the Dodge parts.

They will look about the same from 10 feet away though oddly enough.

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Old 05-19-2013, 10:31 PM   #243
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I saw those brakes they look huge on a jeep.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:37 PM   #244
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Yes and no. Yours is the kit for the Currie F-450 steering knuckle and uses the Dodge Ram 1500 dual 54mm caliper and matching rotor.

This new one is very similar in size, but is 100% bolt on to the JK steering knuckle with no modifications and no machined caliper bracket adapter. It bolts right up to the JK knuckle and fits the JK unit bearing but does not use any of the Dodge parts.

They will look about the same from 10 feet away though oddly enough.
All I can say is they stop, and the 40s needed that
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:10 PM   #245
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So I want to build a tire carrier for my spare, what tickness should the steel be? I'm just tired of having the spare tire seat on the back of my jeep taking most of the space. I would go out and buy one, but I have a lot of time on my hands at the moment and it seems like something fun.
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:53 PM   #246
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I found some 2x3x20' 1/8 thick rectangular tubing at a local metal yard for $53 or 3/16 for $73. Would 1/8 be ok to hold a 35" tire and alloy wheel?
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:24 PM   #247
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Hi Mini
Your going to want 3/16th for strength. I can't recall a single bumper using 1/8th wall tube. If your going to make it a swing out the you really want the pivot point to be strong.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:59 PM   #248
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For those of you that have swapped your stick for an automatic... what shifter did you use?
I'm almost done gathering my parts... I picked up a TCM and a flexplate today... now I just need a shifter...
Thanx for any advice...
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:40 PM   #249
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I'm thinking maybe I'll just pickup a stock complete Tj shifter assembly...?
Just not sure whats being used...and I've never look inside some of jeeps with autos when out on the trail....

Any love you may have for me here would be greatly appreciated
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:03 PM   #250
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I'm thinking maybe I'll just pickup a stock complete Tj shifter assembly...?
Just not sure whats being used...and I've never look inside some of jeeps with autos when out on the trail....

Any love you may have for me here would be greatly appreciated
Hit the jeep junk yard and get the assembly and the console. I'm sure with some modifications to your linkage and to the console it should work.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:14 PM   #251
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Hit the jeep junk yard and get the assembly and the console. I'm sure with some modifications to your linkage and to the console it should work.
Thanx bud...I was just I was just about to call Jeep Depot in the 818 and suddenly I had a brain fart and realized I have a 91 Mj behind my shop that's an automatic.... I think its gonna have to make a donation for the cause..lol
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:24 PM   #252
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That'll work Chris!
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:36 PM   #253
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Well I to a look at the old Mj and it's way to clean of a truck to pick from so I'm gonna call Jeep Depot tomorrow for the parts...
I know there's a few of you guys that have the aw4 automatic swapped into your rigs...it sure would be nice to hear what you have for a shifter..
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:55 PM   #254
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Couldn't you use a B&M Universal 4 speed auto shifter?
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:32 AM   #255
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Thanx Bob...
I was hoping with all the talk lately about ditching the stick and swapping in an automatic this might spark some discussion and I might gain some useful knowledge along the way...
Its all good I'll figure this out..
Thanx again
Steve..
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:57 PM   #256
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Well I to a look at the old Mj and it's way to clean of a truck to pick from so I'm gonna call Jeep Depot tomorrow for the parts...
I know there's a few of you guys that have the aw4 automatic swapped into your rigs...it sure would be nice to hear what you have for a shifter..
I've not done a YJ, just the TJ. What works in the TJ is you need the factory shifter cable for the 32RH due to the insulation on it going by the exhaust manifold.

Then you will need the 32RH shifter or the AW-4 shifter from a Cherokee. The AW-4 shifter will need to be modified to move the console mounting tab towards the front of the vehicle about 1.25" or so.

Both shifters work on the floor plate which will have to be swapped in if you have 05 up manual or auto, or manual pre 05 to 97.

Were it me, I'd get the 32 cable and shifter and make them work. The AW-4 is a 3 position detent for the drive gears. P, N, R are the same as the 32.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:58 PM   #257
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Thanx Bob...
I was hoping with all the talk lately about ditching the stick and swapping in an automatic this might spark some discussion and I might gain some useful knowledge along the way...
Its all good I'll figure this out..
Thanx again
Steve..
I've done many in TJ's so if any of that adapts over, I'm glad to help.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:22 PM   #258
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Thanx Blaine...
With the help of some cool guy on the Xj forums I've got it just about all worked out except for the shifter part...those guys are doing some neat stuff in regards to the way they shift the aw4....but I'm with you on the fact that I'd like it to look as factory as possible..for now at least.
So I have a complete 92 aw4 from flexplate to TC with the TCM . I know I also need to drill and clock the TC....I'm not to worried about the install of the trans or the drive line's and what not its the wiring and shifter that's good me thinking way to much..lol
Thanx again for the very helpful insight...
Much appreciated
Steve
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:52 PM   #259
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Thanx Blaine...
With the help of some cool guy on the Xj forums I've got it just about all worked out except for the shifter part...those guys are doing some neat stuff in regards to the way they shift the aw4....but I'm with you on the fact that I'd like it to look as factory as possible..for now at least.
So I have a complete 92 aw4 from flexplate to TC with the TCM . I know I also need to drill and clock the TC....I'm not to worried about the install of the trans or the drive line's and what not its the wiring and shifter that's good me thinking way to much..lol
Thanx again for the very helpful insight...
Much appreciated
Steve
I have a clocking drill jig if you need it. You will have to toss the trans into the back of a pick up and swing it by so you can borrow the jig and drill it while you wait. This is my 3rd jig and it doesn't leave the property. I loaned the last one to a member on here and it didn't come home. I also have the drill, bits, bolts and tools handy so it will take you all of 10 minutes to do the work.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:08 PM   #260
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O man...that well be much appreciated, thank you.
I'll get in touch with you to setup a good time to get this done.
I'm getting excited about this swap!
Thanx again
Steve
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:39 AM   #261
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Moving the conversation about lockers to here so we don't thread jack Stan's thread anymore

Quote:
What do you mean by full time? Like it's on all the time? Can you turn that off? Not too familiar with the Atlas fucntionality, so I don't know if you can turn it off. I know that the transfer case in the cherokee we are building for King of the hammers (EMC), has the option of 2WD, 4HI (part-time), 4HI (full-time), and 2LO (part-time).

Basically any time the front axle is receiving power, the locker is working (locking). The more power it receives, the harder it locks. But if it has full time, as in, its on while on the road too...I would say the lunchbox won't work in your situation.
The front driveshaft is always turning, we didn't know it until this weekend at Miller. The 4wd light is off on the dash and the Atlas is in 2H, which is has to be in. That would be my concern with that locker working, it seems it would be on all the time.

The whole Atlas thing is new to us also, it's confusing.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:49 AM   #262
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Moving the conversation about lockers to here so we don't thread jack Stan's thread anymore



The front driveshaft is always turning, we didn't know it until this weekend at Miller. The 4wd light is off on the dash and the Atlas is in 2H, which is has to be in. That would be my concern with that locker working, it seems it would be on all the time.

The whole Atlas thing is new to us also, it's confusing.
In our jeeps, the front driveshaft is always turning...but it doesn't mean the transfercase is engaged. Since factory YJs, TJs, JKs, dont use manual locking hubs (we don't have to get out of the jeep and unlock/lock our hubs), we are 'technically' always locked in. This means the wheels are always connected to the differential, which is connected to the driveshaft. So as you drive, your front wheels are turning, and since your hubs are "locked" you are turning the differential, which is then turning the driveshaft.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:50 AM   #263
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Your drive shaft is always turning because you don't have locking hubs on your front axle...(like on your dads old Cj)....it has nothing to do with the Atlas...
I myself like a selectable locker in the front...I have the ARB...but the Eaten E-locker is a good one too if you don't have OBA....OX lockers are good as well and can be made to engage with the use of air,cable or 12volt...
Hope this helps..
Steve
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:11 PM   #264
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Your Atlas should have 2wd front only, 2wd rear only, 4wd hi, neutral, 4wd low. The 2wd front is for sharp corners where you want the front tires to pull you around and not go forward at the same time. It's sometimes called a front dig. It would work with a lunchbox.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-...ng--operation/
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:59 PM   #265
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Ok, this is all making more sense now. Every Jeep, Scout & Bronco my dad ever had was equipped with the locking hubs. I just never paid any attention to the Jeeps we've had.

The Atlas does have to be in 2h or you go nowhere, that much I know. It's a learning process, unlike my JKU where you just push a couple buttons and turn up the stereo

Thanks for the help, I knew there was a reason I stick around

Lisa
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:02 PM   #266
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Your Atlas should have 2wd front only, 2wd rear only, 4wd hi, neutral, 4wd low. The 2wd front is for sharp corners where you want the front tires to pull you around and not go forward at the same time. It's sometimes called a front dig. It would work with a lunchbox.
Atlas Transfer Case - Shifting & Operation | Tech Vault | Advance Adapters
Haha, Bob I printed that out last week and put it in the Jeep before we left Saturday I read it to Mike twice, I threatened to read it a third time and he gave me the, "better not" look
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:25 PM   #267
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Haha, Bob I printed that out last week and put it in the Jeep before we left Saturday I read it to Mike twice, I threatened to read it a third time and he gave me the, "better not" look
It sometimes helps with the Atlas 2 speed case to remember a few rules to aid in shifting them.

You can NOT get one end in hi and the other in low at the same time. That means if you are in 4 low, you will need to pull one of the shifters to neutral before you move the other one to the range you are after.

You can NOT shift to front 2 wheel hi ever, so that will determine which shifter moves to neutral at times.

If you are on trail and trying to shift out of 4 low to front 2 low and it doesn't want to shift, put your foot on the brake and with light pressure on the case shifter, shift the trans to reverse to release the pressure on the case gear set. When there is not pressure, it will shift like butter and until there isn't, no amount of force will move it.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:40 PM   #268
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It sometimes helps with the Atlas 2 speed case to remember a few rules to aid in shifting them.

You can NOT get one end in hi and the other in low at the same time. That means if you are in 4 low, you will need to pull one of the shifters to neutral before you move the other one to the range you are after.

You can NOT shift to front 2 wheel hi ever, so that will determine which shifter moves to neutral at times.

If you are on trail and trying to shift out of 4 low to front 2 low and it doesn't want to shift, put your foot on the brake and with light pressure on the case shifter, shift the trans to reverse to release the pressure on the case gear set. When there is not pressure, it will shift like butter and until there isn't, no amount of force will move it.
Thank you, this is helpful. The Atlas was just an added bonus on the Jeep when we bought it, we never really planned on having one. The more we learn about it the better, and it may prevent some arguments too

Lisa
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:59 PM   #269
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Well, I've been looking around at all these different skid plate options for the JK body style Jeep. Some I think look rather beefy, and some I feel look pretty weak. Most are atleast $300 for a engine/trans skidplate like I have been looking at. Well I've decided to build my own and I've got a couple other ideas to bounce off yall. Btw I think this an awesome thread for brain storming.

What I plan on doing is buying a crossmember mounting kit like those sold by barnes4wd.com or ruffstuffspecialties.com and mounting that to the frame around where the engine mounts are. I still need to check for clearance around that area, also so I can get a welder in there. My plan is to mount the tabs to the frame, and then notch some 1" x 2"-.120 wall tubing to the bushing side of the mounts. This I'm hoping will reduce vibration and also absorb some of the shock of landing on the skid.

For the frame work of the skid I plan on using 1" x 2"-.120 wall to make an outer frame, that should butt up next to the transmission crossmember. I do plan on re-routing my exhaust to behind my transfer case to all for more clearance for the drive shaft to droop on the driver side. It shouldn't be no more than 20 inches wide and maybe 30 inches long. I have some left over .120 sheet metal I was thinking about using for the actual skid surface. It would be one solid sheet cut out in the shape of the from for it with counter sunk bolts to give it a completely smooth surface. I was planning on running a piece of the same size rectangle tubing as above from side to side of the skid in two seperate spots to give it more stiffness considering its only .120 (10 Ga. sheet metal).

Do you think that would be enough or would I need to go get some 1/4" sheet metal and be done with it? I've thought about just building it and if it get dented and ugly then just easily build another skid surface out of thicker material, but I hate doing things twice lol.
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:41 PM   #270
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Well, I think this an awesome thread for brain storming.
I also think this it a great thread and can't wait to finish my automatic transmission (AW4) swap into my Yj so I can post up a complete how too write up along with pictures....

Thanx for bringing it to the top again...

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