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Old 04-14-2013, 10:56 PM   #7201
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Yep you were blowing a bit of steam the wrong way.

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Old 04-15-2013, 10:29 AM   #7202
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Thats lame man never makes for a good day when you have engine problems. Sorry I couldn't give you a hand towing it home

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Old 04-15-2013, 10:58 AM   #7203
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We got it no problem. Borrowed a trailer, no biggy.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:25 PM   #7204
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Thats lame man never makes for a good day when you have engine problems. Sorry I couldn't give you a hand towing it home
Hey no problem man.

What does your work sell complete motors for? Ill use my own head if i need to.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:21 PM   #7205
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Matters on mileage and condition. What year is yours? Pull and save is like 125bucks for a complete engine but no way to no it it runs lol
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:36 PM   #7206
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91 thru 99 1/2 will all work.. 96+ only need one small modification to work
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:38 PM   #7207
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I don't think year really matters much for the bottom end. Could be wrong though. But its a 95. Id just use my head (7120 casting) on a fresh bottom.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:38 PM   #7208
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What's that mod nick?
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:00 PM   #7209
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The 0660 head doesn't have the provisions for the temp gauge, ie it's not drilled and tapped for it.. there's a number of ways to go about fixing that but what we did when I swapped to a 99 long block was, take one of the plugs out of the side of the block... That part was interesting as its a female square that a 3/8 drive is too small to fit in and 1/2 is too big.. we just used an easy out.. went and found a plug fitting of the same size and thread pitch, then drilled and tapped that fitting for 1/8" NPT and installed the sensor into it, then extended the wiring to the sensor
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:01 PM   #7210
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As far as bottom end, up to 99 1/2 should work fine, after that things went to shit and even the motor mount bracket mounting points were moved
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:29 PM   #7211
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We don't even have an engine right now. Did you throw a rod through the block or is it still usable??
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:27 PM   #7212
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Built a box for the rear of the heep, building my traction bar tonight and tomorrow!
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:38 PM   #7213
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What kind are ya building? I did mine with tube inside a tube so it can rotate all it wants with no restrictions. Works good.

And what the heck you plan on putting in that big a box? Bodies? Haha
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:52 PM   #7214
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Gonna build a two bar set up, the box is gonna hold my recovery gear, tools, spare parts, fluids, etc. That way i wont have it all rolling around the back of the jeep and ill have a flat space to put all my other gear and cooler on top of the box
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:55 PM   #7215
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Built a box for the rear of the heep, building my traction bar tonight and tomorrow!


Had to do it lol.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:59 PM   #7216
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We don't even have an engine right now. Did you throw a rod through the block or is it still usable??
Its still usable, drove it off the trailer. Just louder than s***
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:16 PM   #7217
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Had to do it lol.
At least im fabing s*** up!!!! Not jist ordering parts off the interwebz!
lol
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:29 AM   #7218
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At least im fabing s*** up!!!! Not jist ordering parts off the interwebz!
lol
Lol
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:56 AM   #7219
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I got this idea off a Jeeper on Pirate and a few other sites. Works pretty good. I'm calling it an Anti-Wrap Traction Device.
I haven't taken it off road yet, but I have tested articulation full bump and droop. But not being a rigid design it will only work under forward motion. I have less than $125 in it. 5/8" grade 100 chain and no it doesn't clink and make noise going down the road.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:47 PM   #7220
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Thats an interesting design, i went to a local shop in hayden and was just gonna have them cut some plates for me but i got to talking to the owner of the shop and he showed me his CJ on 40s and what he was using for traction bars and im copying his design just using bigger bushings and links lol
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:50 PM   #7221
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Quick pic of my bars and mounting bar
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:01 PM   #7222
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Which joints are those?
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:28 PM   #7223
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The bushings are balistic weldable bushings and the other end are creeper joints
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:43 PM   #7224
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Looks good man. I'm interested to see how those hold up for you. I was thinking about the 3" Johnny Joints because I want a 3/4" thru bolt. But man $40 or $100 a joint really gets ya thinking.

Everything I've read about the Ballistic joints says guys have to keep tightening them and rebuilding them.

Edit: I was referring to the Ballistic joints not the bushings.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:54 PM   #7225
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The bushings are balistic weldable bushings and the other end are creeper joints
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:27 PM   #7226
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Not the design I'd go for, might limit droop or even up travel.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:34 PM   #7227
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Not the design I'd go for, might limit droop or even up travel.
The thing is though every design out there puts the leaf springs in a bind. It may not be noticeable as far as feeling it, but it's there. Without a shackle on both ends of a leaf spring there is no way to correctly mimic the axle arc path as it cycles.

You just pick what you like and run it.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:35 PM   #7228
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Not the design I'd go for, might limit droop or even up travel.
I was thinking that. But the execution is good. Gewd werk beard face.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:37 PM   #7229
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Hell, im just impressed that the jeep never fell to the ground lmao.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:42 PM   #7230
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The thing is though every design out there puts the leaf springs in a bind. It may not be noticeable as far as feeling it, but it's there. Without a shackle on both ends of a leaf spring there is no way to correctly mimic the axle arc path as it cycles.

You just pick what you like and run it.
There are some designs that wont bind. And actually they're perfect for the 9" as its not a cast housing. You key off the diff and the center of the skid plate

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