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Old 05-13-2013, 02:25 AM   #7501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pengintamer View Post

Hard to tell what happened on my phone. You kill the yoke?
That's what it looks like to me

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Old 05-13-2013, 06:10 PM   #7502
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Assuming the axle joint broke which in turn broke the inner axle.

Was a pretty knarly climb. Nobody else tried it with my length of wheelbase. Spot i broke on is about a 5 foot verticle ledge you have to pop up over.
Got it all on video with the gopro.

So, who said a dana 30 will live if left open on 33's? Haha, nope.

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Old 05-13-2013, 06:15 PM   #7503
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Just in our group we broke two front 30's, an axle on a 35 and spiders on another 35, oh and some steering parts on another.
Watched two rockwells break, and luke from hazzard lopped off knucke out on his buggy.
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:46 AM   #7504
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True hi9 almost ready.

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Old 05-14-2013, 03:48 AM   #7505
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Nodular iron in such a configuration is quite awesome
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:56 AM   #7506
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Tis a thing of beauty
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Darkproximity- Sometimes I wonder if your jeep was assembled by 8 year olds with nail guns and a lot of caffeine
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:41 AM   #7507
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No truss while it's out?
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:18 PM   #7508
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Trusses are overrated lol.. plus with the 9 you can get the type that go around the back so it can be easily added later
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:34 PM   #7509
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Trusses are overrated lol.. plus with the 9 you can get the type that go around the back so it can be easily added later
This. That and the point of a 9in is the weight. Why add a bunch of unnecessary steel?
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:10 PM   #7510
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This. That and the point of a 9in is the weight. Why add a bunch of unnecessary steel?
To keep from having to start over when your axle turns into a huge smile?

I guess trussing is not as commonplace as I may have thought. For myself if I was swapping an axle in my offroad rig it would be trussed. Just makes sense to me.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:39 PM   #7511
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Quote:
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To keep from having to start over when your axle turns into a huge smile?

I guess trussing is not as commonplace as I may have thought. For myself if I was swapping an axle in my offroad rig it would be trussed. Just makes sense to me.
Mine has held up just fine in the year I've been running it
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:44 PM   #7512
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Not to mention we're on a timeline to get it done by memorial day with limited time to do it, its something that can easily be added later.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:46 PM   #7513
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How thick of tubes do the 9's have? As much as i like to smack things, my next setup will be trussed.

This brings me to a couple questions. Are these hi9's really that good? I just looked up the price to build one. More than i bought my jeep for. Seems like a silly amount to spend on a 9". If i am going to spend that much i might as well go to 1 tons.
What am i missing?
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:50 PM   #7514
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Pinion angle, driveshaft length and clearance, ground clearance, strength, weight of the 9"

What other advantages would depend on what you classify a 1 ton rear axle as.. I personally dont consider semi float rears as "1 ton" and I think dana 60s are garbage. The better options you have for a true 1 ton rear is the 14 bolt and the sterling 10.25, id go with the sterling as it offers better ground clearance.

A full floating rear would be good if you tow a lot, as the jeep rear doesn't weigh much at all so the advantages arent worth it there.. ive entertained the idea of floating mine for ease of disassembly, but that gets spendy

The 9 is also easily found in practical widths for those of us who want to on road drive and keep tires tucked-ish
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:09 PM   #7515
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Tucked-ish. Lol.

Just seeing a 2k tag by the time you put in a diff and thats just pumkin, no axles. Its a sweet setup, just dont see $2k worth. I can do a lot more to make my jeep better with that much.

I wheel the crap out of mine, have been out every weekend since about march. Its no poser. And after this weekend, i am learning that i need to start on some axles because i sure am not backing off. Just trying to make the best decision on what way to go.

Between diesels, boats, sleds, dirtbikes and jeeps it gets spendy.
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:46 PM   #7516
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The hi9 was spendy as hell. But worth it imo. If I manage to bend the housing I'll go get another one from the jy as they are plentiful and cheap. Or bight the bullet and get an aftermarket fabbed housing with full float, disc brakes and locking hubs. Plus one problem id have if I trussed it is gas tank clearance with my strech.
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:50 PM   #7517
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The housing and shafts are 100 bucks at the jy.. I've seen retarded prices for rear hp d60 aftermarket axles, and those are even worse than lp rear 60s.

I meant to say this before but rear axles tend to not go all smiley like front axles, again you dont have anywhere near the weight you do in the front.

When I got my hi9, I had a choice between it, a dynatrac hp60 w/detroit, teraflex hp60 with arb, or another teraflex with detroit. Any one I wanted, for free.. I had done enough research to know which one was the better choice even before getting it..
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:23 PM   #7518
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The whole jy axle part is something that surely appeals to me and something i didnt think of. I am not the biggest 9" fan. Broken too many axles, one of which was a break on the highway that broke outboard of the bearing resulting in entire wheel departing vehicle at 60mph.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:13 PM   #7519
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The true hi9 is the strongest rear hp center out there. As it has the normal 3rd pinion bearing and in my case 2 thrust bearings on the ring gear to control deflection. The weak links in my rear are the housing and the axle shafts, and they are far from weak lol.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:47 PM   #7520
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I wouldnt call them weak, but i have broke them with a 1/2 ton ford on 31's and a worn out 360....
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:49 PM   #7521
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And thats my big reason for shying away from spending $2k on something i am not going to trust.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:41 PM   #7522
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Id be really surprised if you broke the actual hi9 center chunk. Guys using them in comp buggies without incident. So the 2k you're spending isnt on a weak part by any means.. and yeah most stock 9" centers were made with just normal grey iron and can be weak which is probably why you had problems. Hell hot rodders love 9" cuz they can hold up to a shit ton of hp, and aftermarket options are everywhere.. nodular iron is the way to go.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #7523
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It is in. Got the shock tabs and bracket welded in. Dont have any pics of that tho. The shocks are long as fawk. I cant even run the stock front frame bracket in the front lol.

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Old 05-16-2013, 02:17 AM   #7524
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Hers a shot of tue shocks mounted in the rear. Didnt get much done tonight. Lost power in the shop :/

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Old 05-16-2013, 02:37 PM   #7525
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If anyone needs drive shaft work done id recommend murls. He does good work fast.
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:35 PM   #7526
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Cool photo someone snapped of our group at the chewelah bogs taking a break.

Click image for larger version

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Old 05-17-2013, 04:30 AM   #7527
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Anyone know where I can find a np231 21 spline for my jeep?
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:47 AM   #7528
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Those are super plentiful in the junkyard

But read this first so you'll know which to get
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...nput_gears.htm
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:05 PM   #7529
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Thanks dark
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:26 PM   #7530
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I want a black Yj anything for sale or trade for my lifted Xj 5spd with 33s?

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