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Old 09-08-2012, 09:54 AM   #1
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The Axe Thread \m/

The guitar players on this forum need an official thread to share pics and b.s. about stuff. Sooo....post em up.

Btw...feel free to share pics or info about other instruments too...drums, bass, guitar amps, flutes...whatever.

I have three guitars that I have purchased in the last year. Here is the most recent one. Still awaiting its arrival. This picture is from ebay, but I'll update with some new pics when I get it.
I also play a Yamaha FG700s, and a Fender Telecaster (mim).

PRS Singlecut SE




I also play a Yamaha FG700s, and a Fender Telecaster (mim).




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Old 09-08-2012, 12:43 PM   #2
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That blue paint with gold hardware looks incredible.
Thanks! I thought long and hard about going with gold hardware, as I'm normally not a fan of it, but when I thought about it in my head, the contrast just seemed to really "pop." I was going to go with chrome hardware but I felt like chrome hardware would cheapen the look.

After "building" my own guitar, I just kinda lost the urge to purchase a "production model" from a large manufacturer, save for a very select few, but I would probably go the "Custom Shop" route through these companies, which can get extremely expensive very quickly. The nice thing about Custom Shops isn't a question of what they can or can't do, but how much money you have.

That being said, there are some smaller manufacturers that offer custom work, but it's limited. For instance, Warmoth will do a custom headstock and I believe they would also do some custom bodies, but there was a high premium, plus, if the production was up, they wouldn't have the time, so they'd probably decline.

If you get into it enough and decide you want an "affordable," Made in the USA custom guitar, I would most certainly look into Carvin. Their guitars are top of the line. I've never spoken with someone who had been unhappy with a Carvin guitar. The only downside is that they don't have any factory stores, save for in California, HOWEVER, their return policy is very good. If you don't like your custom guitar, they will give you a full refund, no questions asked.

Carvin customs are limited. I don't believe they do neck or body binding, and they only have a single radius neck. To some people that won't matter, but then to others, it does. Other than that, since they don't pay a "middle man" for distribution, they don't have the same costs as a company such as Fender, Jackson, Gibson, etc., so their custom guitars are cheaper. You can get a VERY NICE Carvin custom guitar for around $1200-$1500.

Speaking of Carvins, I surely wouldn't mind owning a custom Carvin V220!

Carvin.com - Guitars, Amplifiers & Pro Audio

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Old 09-08-2012, 12:47 PM   #3
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Don't give me info like that. My wife will kill me, then track you down!



Here is the other two guitars...

Yamaha




And the Tele. Looks like the same blue, although they did have 2 different blues I think. This one is Lake Placid Blue

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Old 09-08-2012, 03:40 PM   #4
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Don't give me info like that. My wife will kill me, then track you down!



Here is the other two guitars...

Yamaha




And the Tele. Looks like the same blue, although they did have 2 different blues I think. This one is Lake Placid Blue

Nice Yamaha acoustic!

I know the color on your Tele; definitely not the same as on mine. Mine's more of an "electric blue," then "bursts" into sort of an aqua, all the while the grains showing through. The pic I posted is really horrible and you really can't get an idea of the true color(s) it is.

BTW, if you just want a "basic" MADE IN USA Carvin, there's an advertised V220 on their site for $999.99. An American "custom" guitar for $999.99? Kinda hard to pass up, don'tcha think?

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Old 09-10-2012, 04:49 PM   #5
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The PRS came today, Oh yeah!!
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #6
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Here it is...
It took long enough to get here, but for the price, and the fact that it came with the hard case and shipped free...I can't complain.



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Old 09-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #7
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Here it is...
It took long enough to get here, but for the price, and the fact that it came with the hard case and shipped free...I can't complain.



WOW, what a beauty!

So how's it play?
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:22 PM   #8
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It plays pretty damn nice. I just picked up a new set of Ernie Ball super slinky's. I have no idea how old or new the strings are so I figured I would replace them.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:40 PM   #9
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Dont know if you can see it, but i used to have a schector from Jager. Played decent for a free guitar

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One of my current axes. Love jacksons!
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And my pop, my bands official guitar tech


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Old 09-11-2012, 09:53 PM   #10
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It plays pretty damn nice. I just picked up a new set of Ernie Ball super slinky's. I have no idea how old or new the strings are so I figured I would replace them.
What gauge are you using? I use .009-.046 on my Warmoth and .009-.042 on my other guitars, save for my Taylor 414ce.

I used Super Slinkys a few times and absolutely hated them. It never failed, I'd always manage to break one within about three days. When I first started playing I used Dean Markleys but I when I went back to playing years later, I just wasn't happy with their sound. At that point, I used GHS Boomers for a while. I kept seeing ads for DR Strings so I decided to give them a shot. I was amazed at the amount of "bite" they had to them and they just seem to "live" a little bit longer. I've been religiously using DRs for about a year now.

You may also want to check the bow in the neck; make sure the neck is straight. A straight neck makes all the difference in playability and sound!

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Dont know if you can see it, but i used to have a schector from Jager. Played decent for a free guitar

Attachment 159332


One of my current axes. Love jacksons!
Attachment 159334

And my pop, my bands official guitar tech


Attachment 159333
Can't go wrong with a Jackson! Is yours a USA model?

I dig the B.C. Rich Mockingbird. Which model is it? I love my Mockingbird but it's so top-heavy I can't play it standing up. I just can't hold up the neck and play at the same time. I'm yet to find a remedy for it.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:22 PM   #11
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Its a china one. I had 2 usa customs but one got stolen and i sold the other.

And my singer is the one who plays the BC and his shoulder,neck, & back are pretty bad from it.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:41 PM   #12
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Its a china one. I had 2 usa customs but one got stolen and i sold the other.

And my singer is the one who plays the BC and his shoulder,neck, & back are pretty bad from it.
I didn't even know Jackson made guitars in China. In April 2011 I bought a JS32 Warrior. I believe it's made in Indonesia. I traded an old Ibanez EX180 in towards it and got like $90-$100 for it. The JS32 stickered at $400. IMO, it's as good a guitar as any $600 guitar I've ever played.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:43 AM   #13
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Okay I am in gang...(thanks KBR)

Here is my PRS SE Torero..
I've owned it for about a year and a half..Only thing that is challenging (other than playing LOL) is changing the strings on the Floyd..
I will have been taking guitar lessons for 2 years as of October.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:44 AM   #14
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Okay I am in gang...(thanks KBR)

Here is my PRS SE Torero..
I've owned it for about a year and a half..Only thing that is challenging (other than playing LOL) is changing the strings on the Floyd..
I will have been taking guitar lessons for 2 years as of October.
Changing strings on a Floyd isn't too bad, but it's another story when you break one. Unlike with a hardtail, your tuning goes all to Hell...and if you swap steing gauges, you better have a screwdriver and real good ruler on hand, because you're going to be making some adjustments to the bridge, which need to be VERY spot-on.

A lot of people don't like Floyds because of their temperamental tuning, but I've ever had any issues with my axe staying in tune, even after pulling some of the wildest pulls and dives known to man. The trick is to STRETCH YOUR STRINGS PRIOR TO LOCKING EVERYTHING DOWN!

Tune the guitar, then pull all the way up on the tremolo, then press it all the way down. Rinse, and repeat a few times. Then, retune (and you WILL need to...) and do it again. Then retune again, lock everything down, and retune again in this order...

Low E, G, A, B, D, High E.

After you've tuned while locked down, pull the tremolo up a good ways, and the press it all the way down again. Then, retune.

...and BTW, if you swap string brands, you may have to make some minor adjustments. It's the same deal with the gauge-swap. You are properly set up when the bridge is straight in the cavity, plus it is flush with the body. Also be sure the intonation is perfect and the bridge is level, not leaning fore or aft.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:03 AM   #15
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Changing strings on a Floyd isn't too bad, but it's another story when you break one. Unlike with a hardtail, your tuning goes all to Hell...and if you swap steing gauges, you better have a screwdriver and real good ruler on hand, because you're going to be making some adjustments to the bridge, which need to be VERY spot-on.

A lot of people don't like Floyds because of their temperamental tuning, but I've ever had any issues with my axe staying in tune, even after pulling some of the wildest pulls and dives known to man. The trick is to STRETCH YOUR STRINGS PRIOR TO LOCKING EVERYTHING DOWN!

Tune the guitar, then pull all the way up on the tremolo, then press it all the way down. Rinse, and repeat a few times. Then, retune (and you WILL need to...) and do it again. Then retune again, lock everything down, and retune again in this order...

Low E, G, A, B, D, High E.

After you've tuned while locked down, pull the tremolo up a good ways, and the press it all the way down again. Then, retune.

...and BTW, if you swap string brands, you may have to make some minor adjustments. It's the same deal with the gauge-swap. You are properly set up when the bridge is straight in the cavity, plus it is flush with the body. Also be sure the intonation is perfect and the bridge is level, not leaning fore or aft.
Thanks Dan! Really appreciate this and will definately take your advice. Should I change the strings one at time while keeping it in tune?

No swapping of guages for me or dive bombing yet...Just still very much in the 'elementary stages' of learning.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:05 AM   #16
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How did I overlook this thread? I've been playing/ modding/ building guitars for what seems like forever, as if my avatar didn't give that away. Below are some of my favorites.

My latest acquisition, a 25th anniversary Ibby RG. I'm still working out the kinks on it (have a slight buzz on the 2nd fret on the low E string), but it's shaping up to be a kickass shredder:



My other 'shred' guitar is one that I built myself from a kit. It's currently sporting GuitarHeads 'Mega-Metal' pickups (DiMarzio X2N clones) and an original Schaller Floyd that I've had since sometime around '88:


Here's something you don't see every day: a semi-hollow with a Floyd Rose! The Kramer NightRider (w/ SD P-Rails pickups):


PRS SE Custom-24 Navarro (GREAT guitars, btw!)


Mockingbird Special - loaded w/ Lace Drop-N-Gain pickups (the little dude is my 1.5 year old):


cool pic with my 335 clone:


Of course, no collection would be complete without a Les Paul:


Here are some of my other 'toys':
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:14 AM   #17
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Thanks Dan! Really appreciate this and will definitely take your advice. Should I change the strings one at time while keeping it in tune?

No swapping of guages for me or dive bombing yet...Just still very much in the 'elementary stages' of learning.
Changing strings one at a time will certainly make things easier. Just make sure to stretch them thoroughly before you tighten the locking nuts. Changing string gauges requires a little more effort as you have to adjust the trem springs to maintain the proper balance, but it's not difficult either.

Also, if you don't want to bother with cutting the ball ends off (and save a little time), try running the strings 'backwards' with the ball end at the top (headstock). Run the string down the fretboard and cut it off just around the end of the bridge. Then just clamp the end, tune up, stretch, re-tune, clamp the nut, and rock out

[edit] like this:
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:10 PM   #18
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When i play guitars with out a floyd i always end up trying to grab the bar in the middle of a solo. But theres nothing there
;(.

I also bed lined my whammy bars. I went a little bed line krazy after i did my jeep. . Great grip though! Stage lights make you sweat like a catholic priest in court. Oh!
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:32 PM   #19
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When i play guitars with out a floyd i always end up trying to grab the bar in the middle of a solo. But theres nothing there
;(.
I HATE it when I do that!

I wonder how well Plasti-Dip would stick to a whammy bar...
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:37 PM   #20
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I want to bed line my whole guitar!!!! I wonder how it would change the sound?
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:13 PM   #21
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Thanks Dan! Really appreciate this and will definately take your advice. Should I change the strings one at time while keeping it in tune?

No swapping of guages for me or dive bombing yet...Just still very much in the 'elementary stages' of learning.
YES. Make sure to change them one at a time! DO NOT de-string the entire guitar, because that will cause the bridge to fall out of the guitar. While this isn't normally a big deal, it could be a little difficult to get mounted back up while trying to feed strings through. Even though the bridges don't look heavy, they ARE when you're trying to feed strings.

Installing the strings in this order worked best for me...

High E, D, B, A, G, Low E. With each string I install, I tune, but the guitar is still going to go out of tune. Once you go through the procedures of stretching out the strings and clamping everything down, you'll be good to go, though.

For instance, if you tune up BEFORE changing strings, then let's say you replace your High E. Even if you tune the NEW High E string, the rest of the strings will probably be out of tune, just because that OLD High E was stretched.

You should probably change strings about once every 5-6 weeks, depending on how often you play. You also want to wipe down the strings after playing, as this prolongs life. Sweat will rust strings so quick you could probably hear them rusting!

One tip when installing strings is you don't want too much string wrapped around the tuning machine peg. You only want the string to wrap maybe 3 times. When you start wrapping a ton of string around a tuning peg it actually detracts from the sound of the guitar.

Line the holes in the tuning peg going up and down the neck. Wrap the string around the peg and feed the string through the hole from the side closest to the bridge...kinda like doing a U-Turn. Then start turning the peg. Make ONE full rotation OVER the string, and then the following rotations, go UNDER the string. This way, the string will be "pinched" between the coils as you're winding. This keeps the string stable. If you need photos because you're not understanding the explanation, I'll be happy to post some.

Quote:
Originally Posted by derfC View Post
How did I overlook this thread? I've been playing/ modding/ building guitars for what seems like forever, as if my avatar didn't give that away. Below are some of my favorites.

My latest acquisition, a 25th anniversary Ibby RG. I'm still working out the kinks on it (have a slight buzz on the 2nd fret on the low E string), but it's shaping up to be a kickass shredder:



My other 'shred' guitar is one that I built myself from a kit. It's currently sporting GuitarHeads 'Mega-Metal' pickups (DiMarzio X2N clones) and an original Schaller Floyd that I've had since sometime around '88:


Here's something you don't see every day: a semi-hollow with a Floyd Rose! The Kramer NightRider (w/ SD P-Rails pickups):


PRS SE Custom-24 Navarro (GREAT guitars, btw!)


Mockingbird Special - loaded w/ Lace Drop-N-Gain pickups (the little dude is my 1.5 year old):


cool pic with my 335 clone:


Of course, no collection would be complete without a Les Paul:


Here are some of my other 'toys':
Quote:
Originally Posted by Powderburn View Post
When i play guitars with out a floyd i always end up trying to grab the bar in the middle of a solo. But theres nothing there
;(.

I also bed lined my whammy bars. I went a little bed line krazy after i did my jeep. . Great grip though! Stage lights make you sweat like a catholic priest in court. Oh!
Quote:
Originally Posted by derfC View Post
Changing strings one at a time will certainly make things easier. Just make sure to stretch them thoroughly before you tighten the locking nuts. Changing string gauges requires a little more effort as you have to adjust the trem springs to maintain the proper balance, but it's not difficult either.

Also, if you don't want to bother with cutting the ball ends off (and save a little time), try running the strings 'backwards' with the ball end at the top (headstock). Run the string down the fretboard and cut it off just around the end of the bridge. Then just clamp the end, tune up, stretch, re-tune, clamp the nut, and rock out

[edit] like this:
Nice collection!

The fret-buzz might be because the action is too low, or the neck has some bow in it...or, it could just be a high fret or maybe there is manufacturing debris/grease on it?
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:49 PM   #22
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. Make ONE full rotation OVER the string, and then the following rotations, go UNDER the string. This way, the string will be "pinched" between the coils as you're winding. This keeps the string stable. If you need photos because you're not understanding the explanation, I'll be happy to post some.
Very sound advice & exactly how I string all of my (non-floyd) guitars





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Nice collection!

The fret-buzz might be because the action is too low, or the neck has some bow in it...or, it could just be a high fret or maybe there is manufacturing debris/grease on it?
Thanks!

Those are all valid points to check when diagnosing string buzz.

However, after re-stringing with my preferred strings/ gauge, adjusting the truss rod (adding a little forward bow), bridge height, spring tension, & even lightly hammering on the 2nd fret, I've just about got the buzz sorted out. I've got the action suuuuuper low on this thing now and it only slightly buzzes in that one spot (F note on the low E string) when I pick aggressively. It does NOT choke out completely and is barely audible through an amp.

I'm going to let it sit for a few days so that the neck can settle & might try another half-turn or so on the truss rod. If that doesn't fix it, it'll be time to break out the fret files. Hell, it's so minor that I might even just decide to live with it!
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:47 PM   #23
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Very sound advice & exactly how I string all of my (non-floyd) guitars

Thanks!

Those are all valid points to check when diagnosing string buzz.

However, after re-stringing with my preferred strings/ gauge, adjusting the truss rod (adding a little forward bow), bridge height, spring tension, & even lightly hammering on the 2nd fret, I've just about got the buzz sorted out. I've got the action suuuuuper low on this thing now and it only slightly buzzes in that one spot (F note on the low E string) when I pick aggressively. It does NOT choke out completely and is barely audible through an amp.

I'm going to let it sit for a few days so that the neck can settle & might try another half-turn or so on the truss rod. If that doesn't fix it, it'll be time to break out the fret files. Hell, it's so minor that I might even just decide to live with it!
Yeah, I also use the same technique for stringing all my guitars.

If you do take files to the frets, be very careful, you do NOT want to file the shine off the fret or create a burr.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:33 AM   #24
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If you do take files to the frets, be very careful, you do NOT want to file the shine off the fret or create a burr.
No worries... that's nothing a little buffing & polish can't fix. Besides, it wouldn't be my first time doing fretwork

Regardless, I played the guitar in question for a while last night and have pretty much decided to leave it as-is as I can no longer hear the buzz through a speaker or headphones and it plays perfectly otherwise.

Now I've just got to wait until my gig on the 29th before I can break it out and blind people with it's awesomeness
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:15 AM   #25
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No worries... that's nothing a little buffing & polish can't fix. Besides, it wouldn't be my first time doing fretwork

Regardless, I played the guitar in question for a while last night and have pretty much decided to leave it as-is as I can no longer hear the buzz through a speaker or headphones and it plays perfectly otherwise.

Now I've just got to wait until my gig on the 29th before I can break it out and blind people with it's awesomeness
Fretwork is a nightmare. I don't even mess with it. If I think I have an issue with frets, it just goes right to the luthier. Unfortunately, the only guy I trust working on my guitars is about 30-40 miles away!

As for that guitar blinding people, you're probably right. I saw one in person a few weeks ago and it was just...vibrant. I also saw one of those neon yellow ones. It looked like a Hi-Liter pen.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:52 AM   #26
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YES. Make sure to change them one at a time! DO NOT de-string the entire guitar, because that will cause the bridge to fall out of the guitar. While this isn't normally a big deal, it could be a little difficult to get mounted back up while trying to feed strings through. Even though the bridges don't look heavy, they ARE when you're trying to feed strings.

Installing the strings in this order worked best for me...

High E, D, B, A, G, Low E. With each string I install, I tune, but the guitar is still going to go out of tune. Once you go through the procedures of stretching out the strings and clamping everything down, you'll be good to go, though.

For instance, if you tune up BEFORE changing strings, then let's say you replace your High E. Even if you tune the NEW High E string, the rest of the strings will probably be out of tune, just because that OLD High E was stretched.

You should probably change strings about once every 5-6 weeks, depending on how often you play. You also want to wipe down the strings after playing, as this prolongs life. Sweat will rust strings so quick you could probably hear them rusting!

One tip when installing strings is you don't want too much string wrapped around the tuning machine peg. You only want the string to wrap maybe 3 times. When you start wrapping a ton of string around a tuning peg it actually detracts from the sound of the guitar.

Line the holes in the tuning peg going up and down the neck. Wrap the string around the peg and feed the string through the hole from the side closest to the bridge...kinda like doing a U-Turn. Then start turning the peg. Make ONE full rotation OVER the string, and then the following rotations, go UNDER the string. This way, the string will be "pinched" between the coils as you're winding. This keeps the string stable. If you need photos because you're not understanding the explanation, I'll be happy to post some.
Dan THANK YOU!
Frankly this scares the crap out of me. I keep telling myself I need to learn how to do this.
First time I tried, I really F'd it up...I kept concentrating on the tuning, thought I was done and was all proud of myself and then took a look at the bridge and it looked like a spoiler on a 69 Camero....ARGH! It was all sticking out..then I got the bridge down but it became cock-eyed..
As far as the stringning through the tuners, there is probably something out there on youtube?

Off to Guitar Center I went :-(
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:55 AM   #27
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Dan THANK YOU!
Frankly this scares the crap out of me. I keep telling myself I need to learn how to do this.
First time I tried, I really F'd it up...I kept concentrating on the tuning, thought I was done and was all proud of myself and then took a look at the bridge and it looked like a spoiler on a 69 Camero....ARGH! It was all sticking out..then I got the bridge down but it became cock-eyed..
As far as the stringning through the tuners, there is probably something out there on youtube?

Off to Guitar Center I went :-(
NOOOOOOOOO! NO GUITAR CENTER!

Letting those idiots at GC is akin to letting the guy at Walmart adjust the brakes on your bicycle. While adjusting a bridge is a work in precision, it is not difficult to master. Just unscrew the cavity cover-plate behind the tremolo. You will see TWO screws driven into the side of the body and through the "claw," which is where the springs are attached.

1. Unlock the locking nut on the neck.

2. Start by making slight turns to the screw closest to you as the guitar is lying face down. Notate whether the direction you are turning the screw is pulling the bridge back towards the body or causing it to tilt more. If it is causing the bridge to tilt more towards the direction you DON'T want to go, turn the other way.

3. Repeat Step 2 with the other screw. YOU MUST MAKE SURE THE CLAW IS NOT CROOKED INSIDE THE CAVITY! Take a ruler and measure the distance from the edge of the claw to the "wall" where the screws are screwed into. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT AS THE LENGH HAS TO BE EXACT, DOWN TO THE MILLIMETER.

This sounds intimidating but it is very easy, just a little time consuming. Plan to spend about an hour, because you will constantly be having to retune with every miniscule adjustment you make until the bridge and spring tension are perfectly balanced. The balance is correct when you are tuned up and the bridge is neither tilting forward nor backward.

If you are confused I can send photos.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:09 AM   #28
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As for that guitar blinding people, you're probably right. I saw one in person a few weeks ago and it was just...vibrant. I also saw one of those neon yellow ones. It looked like a Hi-Liter pen.
Yeah, it is rather bright, isn't it?

We just signed up to do a monthly all-80's show at one of the local clubs & this guitar will be PERFECT for it.

I'm thinking about adding some yellow knobs and picking up one of these straps to complete the look


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NOOOOOOOOO! NO GUITAR CENTER!
LOL... sooooooo true.

Here's a good Floyd Rose setup guide: Floyd Rose Setup and Tuning
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:11 AM   #29
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Yeah, it is rather bright, isn't it?

We just signed up to do a monthly all-80's show at one of the local clubs & this guitar will be PERFECT for it.

I'm thinking about adding some yellow knobs and picking up one of these straps to complete the look



LOL... sooooooo true.

Here's a good Floyd Rose setup guide: Floyd Rose Setup and Tuning
Good info on the FR setup, though if he just started playing 6 months ago and isn't familiar with the FR, a video may help as well, but unfortunately, there don't seem to be any good videos to be found! Most of the videos show poor techniques for changing strings (all at once, stopping the trem from sinking with blocks crammed under the bridge...) and setting up the guitar in general. About the ONLY thing I found that was a correct procedure was in regards to needing a 6-inch ruler with measurements in 1/64 increments. If worse comes to worse, I'll to a demo and have my wife film it, then hopefully I can upload it on to the computer and get it here.

BTW, the neon strap would just send that bright guitar right over the edge!
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:42 PM   #30
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Hey guys,...acoustic guitar....If I change the strings to a thinner gauge do I have adjust the truss rod after?

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