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Old 12-05-2012, 02:50 PM   #1
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$34 for a flat belly skid!

doh! some assembly required!



i;m not sure why its taken me so long to get around to this proj, i'm stoked, gunna be fun.

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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:14 PM   #2
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Where can I find a kit like that???

I need some work on mine... liberal use of the gas tank skid has taken it's toll!!

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Old 12-05-2012, 07:41 PM   #3
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Well Tim, you have to start somewhere. Tabla Rosa as it were
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:54 PM   #4
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I want one! Is it a sheet of metal? Drool
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:08 PM   #5
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made some good headway considering the complete lack of legible directions.



next up will be some fun getting it mocked in place so i can mark cutouts for the driveshafts. full coverage between the spring hangers.
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:50 PM   #6
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Are you saying that you bought a piece of quarter inch plate with instructions or are you being facetious?
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldguy View Post
Are you saying that you bought a piece of quarter inch plate with instructions or are you being facetious?
german guy trying to be funny -rimshot-

definitely no instructions, i'm just making it up as i go!!

in regards to instructions: i have the original owners manual for this thing, and it actually includes instructions for how to rebuild the tranny and tcase. have freekin rad is that?
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:35 AM   #8
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Hey man, can you make me a skid for my DH bike next???? I want to have a 1' wide plate in front of my 40 to make sure I don't scratch the stanchions...
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:34 AM   #9
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I laughed pretty hard when I saw the first picture.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by backcountryislife View Post
Hey man, can you make me a skid for my DH bike next???? I want to have a 1' wide plate in front of my 40 to make sure I don't scratch the stanchions...
sure, but it might send you a bit noze heavy down rainmaker!!

maybe out of purple anodized aluminum full of speed holes?

i'm a fella biker, though i've stuck with the shorter travel route. i ride winter park about 40-50 days a year.

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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
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sure, but it might send you a bit noze heavy down rainmaker!!

maybe out of purple anodized aluminum full of speed holes?

i'm a fella biker, though i've stuck with the shorter travel route. i ride winter park about 40-50 days a year.


Yeah... I know, I've given you SH** on MTBR before, used to be on there a lot. I usually hit WP as well, but this year we had a little one & the Jeep was a little more fitting for family recreation than the bike.

Nice BR btw... I switched to a voltage last year... I like the slightly lower travel on rainmaker & that type of run... but it's a little sketchy for Vaginia Canyon.... big bikes rule the trails there.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #12
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Yeah... I know, I've given you SH** on MTBR before, used to be on there a lot. I usually hit WP as well, but this year we had a little one & the Jeep was a little more fitting for family recreation than the bike.
yup, i hear that. one of the reasons why we've gotten into 4x4's is future planning for simular reasons. for the meantime though, our one kiddo happens to be a teenager and he's a SHREDDER. officially i can no longer keep up with him on the gnarlier/rockier trails. for the last three years i've hit WP 40-45 days a season.

Quote:
Originally Posted by backcountryislife View Post
Nice BR btw... I switched to a voltage last year... I like the slightly lower travel on rainmaker & that type of run... but it's a little sketchy for Vaginia Canyon.... big bikes rule the trails there.
it is a blast for most of WP, and it feels like a super duper dirtjump bike on rainmaker! i'd like to add something bigger to the stable, but its not a high priority right now.
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:13 AM   #13
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yup, i hear that. one of the reasons why we've gotten into 4x4's is future planning for simular reasons. for the meantime though, our one kiddo happens to be a teenager and he's a SHREDDER. officially i can no longer keep up with him on the gnarlier/rockier trails. for the last three years i've hit WP 40-45 days a season.



it is a blast for most of WP, and it feels like a super duper dirtjump bike on rainmaker! i'd like to add something bigger to the stable, but its not a high priority right now.

Same here... we got the first toy when she got pregnant, knowing it would be tough to do the sports we do & this would be a nice option.

My dollars this year have definitely gone toward jeep parts rather than bikes... but all my DH buddies are into RC as well, so we've built a track here & had some fun breaking even more crap on that truck than we do on the big truck!!
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:38 AM   #14
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i'd say that my dollars this year have gone towards the jeep, but thats not very accurate... my bucks have been going towards my shop, tools, materials and consumables. old jeeps like this run far more on ingenuity than money, which is why i love it so much. i've spent almost no money on parts, thank god i don't charge myself by the hour!!

i could build a sweet rc track in my backyards... but instead we are building a pump track and dirt jumps!

i'm stoked to see this take shape, the slopped areas on the front and and back actually rest on the spring hangers, so i'll have a nearly smooth transition from the springs to the plate and even the driveshafts will only be exposed when its way flexed out as i've kept it pretty dang low.

my buddies plasma kicked the bucked so i've been cutting everything with the old grinder and hole saws. its not as quick or as fun, but its nice to remind myself that you don't -need- thousand dollar tools for this stuff.

(now time to go drool on my keyboard while eshopping plasmas...)

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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:49 AM   #15
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You know the old ways are best Tim I still enjoy going at plate with a hacksaw, a very fancy one but a hacksaw non the less. I must admit though that it would be nice to have space to set up my bandsaw. I really, really miss my old shop
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:36 AM   #16
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I have room for a bandsaw!

I am seriously debating about what to invest in next, especially as i'm switching from MIG to TIG welding. The plas is awesome because it is so fast and versatile, and after you get really good at it, reasonably accurate. but everything has to be ground down making it hard to get perfect fitup. I plan to add a disc/belt sander combo very soon that will help with that, but it does make me think that i might like the bandsaw better as my go to machine for cutting plate material.

When i first started working on my jeep i definitely valued quick productivity as i really wanted to get it out and wheel it, now that my work is more focused on modifications than repairs i find myself happy to spend more time making parts as perfect as i can. in that respect, i think i'd really like a bandsaw. I've thought i may even go with something like a portaband with a swag table (though i'd probably make the table, not buy it from swag).
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:28 PM   #17
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Still plugging away, holidays and being busy at work cut into the shop time...

mocked in place:



now working on the rest of the bracing:

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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #18
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It's going to be sweet when you get it all done Tim Makes me more anxious than ever to start my CJ5 project, but that won't happen till next summer...
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:05 AM   #19
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thanks dude! making steady progress, i ran into some minor tcase clearance issues so i've had to bump it out a bit. i was hoping to get a 100% flat skid, but thats just not happening and honestly, its just no big deal anyways. next i'm going to reinforce the front and rear lips, and add some small tubes to make sure all of the impact weight bears onto the frame.

oh yeah, and i got a fancy red christmas present

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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:18 AM   #20
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Your going all out on this skid

Look forward to seeing it all done. I'm not familiar with the trans/mounting points and frame points on the CJs, any pics of that?

We are getting ready to do these to your TJs and a variety of knowledge can never hurt. Looks good. Nice new toy by the way!
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:13 AM   #21
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all out is the only way to go!! also, i actually intend to make it very heavy to help lower my center of gravity further for more stability. given my high horsepower and already very light weight adding some pounds to the lowest point of my chassis will do nothing but help me.

like most things on this rig, my tcase mounting is custom. i ditched the factory crossmember and built one out of tube, pushing the case up an inch and overall adding several inches of belly clearance.

lets see if i can dig up some photos...

uhg... the other forum that i have a full build thread on keeps crashing on me...

original configuration:



and this is the best i can find of the new one. boxed in tabs drop down off the frame to grab the cmember bushings. it is actually the passenger side tab that has given me the most clearance trouble.

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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:23 AM   #22
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That looks good, that is exactly what my friend is doing for his TJ, with the separate cross member and skid. I think I am going to opt for a 1 piece skid design when I do mine and reuse the stock mount, but I'm not completely sure yet. We are working on his as he's swapping his tcase now as well and his jeep is down and out. Mines still a DD.

Looks really clean to me. you make a good point about the COG, most guys freak out about every extra 5 pounds, but when doing something like a skid it does help bring the center of gravity down, although not by a huge amount I would think. Probably helps offset the fact that you are moving the drivetrain an inch higher in the middle and raising the skid. How much clearance are you going to gain with the flat skid over the stock CJ?

I have read several times that the separate cross member makes it more difficult to get a completely flat skid, and this has also proven true for you. We are gona try to do it with my buddies new NP241 but it's fatter than his np231 was. Time will tell. It would be nice to have the ability to drop only the skid, however.

My skid isn't going in until my current axle build is done so I am spending the mean time checking out lots of different skid designs and options before I start fitting and building mine. Thanks for sharing the pics.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:01 PM   #23
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with 33" tires at 18psi it will have a final belly height of 15.25", a net gain in clearance of 3-1/4" versus what it measured out with the stock crossmember and 32" tires. since i changed tires its hard for me to make an exact apples to apples comparison, but clearly it is a great improvement over stock and the skid actually only brings the belly down by about a 1/4" as all of the bracing is built around the tube crossmember.

i do agree that it makes a lot of sense to be as weight conscious as possible, but in part you need to do this overall so that you can burn some of those weight savings in a beneficial way. with a low rig, i really feel i need the bombproof belly and though the weight won't make any huge CG difference, its a move in the right direction fo sho.

i absolutely would not integrate a skid into a crossmember, suspension mount, or anything else. especially if it really is covering the entire bottom such as this. i just KNOW that i would regret it eventually as maintenance and repairs would be a total pain. with my configuration i can slap a cooler underneath for support, pull out four bolts and slide the whole thing out in 30 seconds.
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
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with 33" tires at 18psi it will have a final belly height of 15.25", a net gain in clearance of 3-1/4" versus what it measured out with the stock crossmember and 32" tires. since i changed tires its hard for me to make an exact apples to apples comparison, but clearly it is a great improvement over stock and the skid actually only brings the belly down by about a 1/4" as all of the bracing is built around the tube crossmember.

i do agree that it makes a lot of sense to be as weight conscious as possible, but in part you need to do this overall so that you can burn some of those weight savings in a beneficial way. with a low rig, i really feel i need the bombproof belly and though the weight won't make any huge CG difference, its a move in the right direction fo sho.

i absolutely would not integrate a skid into a crossmember, suspension mount, or anything else. especially if it really is covering the entire bottom such as this. i just KNOW that i would regret it eventually as maintenance and repairs would be a total pain. with my configuration i can slap a cooler underneath for support, pull out four bolts and slide the whole thing out in 30 seconds.
That not bad, gona be pretty decent for a CJ. I agree, your right on with the build.

The only reason I am really considering doing a one piece is because it is the only way to get it completely flat from what I have seen. I will save around 100 bucks as well. It will be the same as it is now, and if you really need to get into the tcase on the trail to work, I think I will have bigger problems... lol. I carry at least 2 jacks on my at all times, but it is real nice to not have to worry about that all... I am gona do some measurements and if I can pull off a separate cross member, I will most definitely be doing so.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:49 PM   #25
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finished this today, but it was too dark to take a decent photo. i think tomorrow i'll be pulling it out of the shop to make room for the axle victim, maybe get her on my flex stump for a good shot.

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1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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