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Old 11-04-2012, 01:45 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasongind
Been thinking about swapping my 4" springs for 3" & running 37's. Also I can get regeared to 4:88‘s for $2k, or an 8.8 rear, 4:88‘s front and rear with ARB lockers for $2500.
Nice. I guess I don't see the reason for an 8.8 if you have a 44 and 37's are the tire size in mind.

The upgrade from rubi lockers does make sense though.

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Old 11-04-2012, 01:38 PM   #32
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Chad, can you send the regear guy's info also? I'm looking to regear after i lift it in the spring. I've also been thinking i need to find a welder because I've been looking to put that Artec truss system on my front axle....

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Old 11-04-2012, 04:43 PM   #33
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Nice. I guess I don't see the reason for an 8.8 if you have a 44 and 37's are the tire size in mind.

The upgrade from rubi lockers does make sense though.
Because if I'm going to spend $2k on just gears, I might as well up grade to The 8.8 and wont have to drop another $1,800 on axle shafts when I want to go to 37's.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #34
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Chuck, what gears are you currently running? Are you going to regear 4.10s in order to run 35s?
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #35
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I'm currently running the 4.10's, and am going to move up to either 5.13's or 5.38's after i lift (probably the 5.38's). It already struggles up hills with the bumpers and winch
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:13 PM   #36
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Dude... i'm sure you are super excited and have had this in the works for a long time, so why would you let somebody booger weld it with a stick??
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:44 PM   #37
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Dude... i'm sure you are super excited and have had this in the works for a long time, so why would you let somebody booger weld it with a stick??
trust me ..........those are great welds......very strong.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:01 PM   #38
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The trail will tell, that's all that really matters. Be happy when you get it in, then you won't have any excuse to not do the rock at China Wall
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:15 AM   #39
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The trail will tell, that's all that really matters. Be happy when you get it in, then you won't have any excuse to not do the rock at China Wall
Yep. Except that I have no desire too do that wall. I'm happy with the welding. So if others don't like it they probably shouldn't look at it. That guy knows his shit. The ones on top are just filler welds. All the connections are tight and strong. Every one has a critic I guess.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:23 PM   #40
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i wasn't trying to be a jerk, and i'm sure it will be strong enough. really strength would be the least concern, and i'm sure it will be fine. Give it a coat of rustoleum hammered finish brushed on paint, and it will look awesome!

If any of those welds are to the cast material, stick using E7018 rod and proper heating/cooling would be the correct way to do it (assuming a TIG wasn't available).

I'm just sort of OCD and try my best to make it all jewelry.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:29 PM   #41
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You know Tim, I've never understood how you ended up in architecture and not mechanical engineering
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:58 AM   #42
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haha! its pretty simple really, if i charged the same hourly rate for an axle truss you'd be better off just calling up spidertrax!

I'll stick to welding for fun and beer!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:15 PM   #43
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Gotcha
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:47 PM   #44
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Hows that swap going Chad?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #45
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oops
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:14 PM   #46
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You thought this was going to be simple? You will have to go SHIT!!!! at least five times before you're even close
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:19 PM   #47
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you thought this was going to be simple? You will have to go shit!!!! At least five times before you're even close :d
:d
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #48
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After some busted knuckles....a few beers....some swearing and laughing not to mention a lot of head shaking.........It's done!!!!! 500 mi break in this week drain and fill then Bealach is headed west to Moab.
Special Thanks to Terry and Rollie for all the help. WOOT!!!!!!
just to wrap it up....
8.8 from 97 exploder/Disc
4:88 gearing
Detroit locker
Atec Industries truss
Tereflex upper adjustable control arms
Tomken lower adjustable control arms.
Custom Track bar from Ed's Parts House
Can't wait to test it out!!
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:12 PM   #49
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Better do a couple shakedown runs before you get too far from home
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:22 PM   #50
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Better do a couple shakedown runs before you get too far from home
yeah I plan to run Lefthand right after break in. I figure that should do a fine job
Thanks Buddy.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:08 PM   #51
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Run Big Momma once for me too
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:12 PM   #52
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will do.....should be interesting......kinda anxious to try the gears.....not to mention the locker. I kinda think it might feel a little different.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:46 PM   #53
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Good stuff, Chad. Looking forward to seeing your rig after this. Keep us posted here.

I'm still holding off even going to 35s because I think I'll be dying to regear right after (2012/4.10/Auto). My JKR being so new, I'm afraid to mess with it. Guess I'll be picking careful lines again this year.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:23 PM   #54
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Good stuff, Chad. Looking forward to seeing your rig after this. Keep us posted here.

I'm still holding off even going to 35s because I think I'll be dying to regear right after (2012/4.10/Auto). My JKR being so new, I'm afraid to mess with it. Guess I'll be picking careful lines again this year.
I'm ready to go now........Been way to long.
Your 4:10's are not a bad ratio. I have been working on the 8.8 for a year. buy a part here buy a part there. save for this or that. but It's finally in.
I said to myself when I got the Jeep that I wouldn't spend on credit so it takes a while to get things done. I know how you feel.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:53 PM   #55
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Some guys tell me the 4.10 Auto will work fine with 35s. Some say it will not, and will fry my tranny. I'm a bit torn. Anyway, hope to see you soon on a run. Off to Moab in a couple of weeks. Can't take this cold anymore.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:55 PM   #56
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Here come the questions:

Did you consider setting the pinion up without the control arms, since you can put it whereever you want with the artec truss?

Did you need the track bar, or could you have made it work with the stock one?
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:32 PM   #57
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Here come the questions:

Did you consider setting the pinion up without the control arms, since you can put it whereever you want with the artec truss?

Did you need the track bar, or could you have made it work with the stock one?
The pinion angle I set at 17 degrees. It could've been installed with the stock uppers and lowers but I wanted to upgrade to Johnny joints anyway and i also wanted to push the axle back a little to make up for the lift which i did with the adjustable C.A. 's. The track bar was essential I think because the 8.8 is 1.5" smaller than the stock d35 and I didn't want to have it to far one way or the other. The one that came off was part of the lift kit and might have been ok but once again I wanted to upgrade to Johnny joints on it as well anyway and then I didn't have to risk it not working right so win win for me.
Hope that helps.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:42 PM   #58
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The pinion angle I set at 17 degrees. It could've been installed with the stock uppers and lowers but I wanted to upgrade to Johnny joints anyway and i also wanted to push the axle back a little to make up for the lift which i did with the adjustable C.A. 's. The track bar was essential I think because the 8.8 is 1.5" smaller than the stock d35 and I didn't want to have it to far one way or the other. The one that came off was part of the lift kit and might have been ok but once again I wanted to upgrade to Johnny joints on it as well anyway and then I didn't have to risk it not working right so win win for me.
Hope that helps.

Thanks that's great. Yeah JJS are on my list too, but right now I can do it without them so I don't really want to wait for them. Plus I plan on converting to a tri-4 link in a few years, working off the artec truss, so I wouldn't want to waste money on uppers I wouldn't be keeping.

I am going to look at the track bar mount and how it's integrated into the artec truss, and see what I can do about it w/ the stock bar. I might just fab a bracket to center it. I might email artec about that one.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:52 AM   #59
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Some guys tell me the 4.10 Auto will work fine with 35s. Some say it will not, and will fry my tranny. I'm a bit torn. Anyway, hope to see you soon on a run. Off to Moab in a couple of weeks. Can't take this cold anymore.
The 12's and 13's are fine with 4.10's and the auto. Its the previous years that needed a little more help from gearing. 37's are the tipping point for gearing on the 12's. I just gotta figure out which one I am going with when I get there later this year (or spring of next year).
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:06 PM   #60
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Some guys tell me the 4.10 Auto will work fine with 35s. Some say it will not, and will fry my tranny. I'm a bit torn. Anyway, hope to see you soon on a run. Off to Moab in a couple of weeks. Can't take this cold anymore.
I'm running 35's with 4:10 auto. Works great.

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