Decision time - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > WF Local > WF Local Forums for Your Region and State > Colorado Jeep Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 06-27-2012, 05:53 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
Decision time

Alright gents, I've been researching and planning for about a year now and I am finally ready to make some pretty big purchases. I have whittled my choices down and I believe this is the best start.

I am trying my best to buy what I want for my final plan as I really don't want to spend money on something to "hold me over" so that may explain my mindset here.

Here is where I picture my jeep near completion. 37/38s, locked, armored, 5:38s, 60s. I know there are things that are needed to support this goal but I'm just mentioning the biggies so you guys get the idea. Here is the catch, I can't justify dropping 10k+ at once. I am looking at staying around 5 this go around so this is just a start.

So here it is...
RK 3.5 Max Flex
Currie Antirock
Gen right boatside sliders
Gen right Front aluminum bumper with trail stinger
Gen right Rear aluminum bumper
Winch.

I've tallied this to just around 5k give or take. This is also under the stipulation I do the labor myself which I plan on attempting maybe with some help.

I will keep the 33s I've got until they are dead so I know it might look a little "off" with the 3.5 but I can deal with that and hopefully hold me over until I am ready for the next step which will be the axles/tires.

Let's hear your opinions, be brutal.

jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 06:03 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
Justin04Lj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,534
Sounds expensive

__________________
Rock Krawler X-factor Short Arm 3.5, 35 general red letters
Justin04Lj is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 06:28 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
brendend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 894
Images: 1
Looks good, I had the re 3.5 on for a week due to death wobble and it looks good with 33s I loves the look and wish I could have kept it. There are a few guys on here that run the anti rock and after seeing it action I want one
brendend is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 06:30 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
brendend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 894
Images: 1
Oh and as far as sliders. Get some angle iron. A fraction of the cost an all the protection. You can get creative with painting and add tubbing for a step if you want
brendend is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 07:06 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendend View Post
Oh and as far as sliders. Get some angle iron. A fraction of the cost an all the protection. You can get creative with painting and add tubbing for a step if you want
Yea, metal work is something pretty far from my comfort zone. Plus, I am becoming a believer in Aluminum and really like the flat surface for the top of the gen rights. I want to lay out some skate tape on them so my little wife can still get in
jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 08:46 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
MOOSEknuckles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 114
I think 5.38's may be overkill for only 37/38's, might want to look at 5.13's... As far as your future plans with one tons and lifts, I'm not familiar with the RK 3.5 but if it requires welding/custom fitting for the brackets and what not, and you don't do the work yourself, you will essentially be paying double to have someone put it on your stock axles the. Cutting it off and redoing it on your new one tons. Just a thought. I just did this, made the call to just go to tons and save a little money not having to redo it. Is the RK 3.5 a long arm? If it is there are a bunch of great upgrades that could go with it. Not so much cosmetics as all the flashy bumpers but IMO much more valuable on the trail.
MOOSEknuckles is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:02 PM   #7
Sponsoring Vendor
 
JPi4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 850
I have 5:38 and they're fine. I have the gen right sliders and I love them. You're on the right track but you'll be hard pressed to get it all done with 60's for 10k
__________________
Jeeperformance, Inc
Yucaipa CA.
877-795-JEEP
https://www.facebook.com/Jeeperformanceinc http://www.jeeperformanceinc.com/
JPi4.0 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:04 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
mo1416's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Broomfield Co
Posts: 1,240
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendend View Post
Looks good, I had the re 3.5 on for a week due to death wobble and it looks good with 33s I loves the look and wish I could have kept it. There are a few guys on here that run the anti rock and after seeing it action I want one
How does the currie anti rock perform on the highway? I'm thinking going that route later on myself.
__________________
We're not stuck Chad and Justin gotta winch
mo1416 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:05 PM   #9
Sponsoring Vendor
 
JPi4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 850
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo1416
How does the currie anti rock perform on the highway? I'm thinking going that route later on myself.
They are perfect
__________________
Jeeperformance, Inc
Yucaipa CA.
877-795-JEEP
https://www.facebook.com/Jeeperformanceinc http://www.jeeperformanceinc.com/
JPi4.0 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:06 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
mo1416's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Broomfield Co
Posts: 1,240
Quote:
Originally Posted by jagerhelix View Post
Alright gents, I've been researching and planning for about a year now and I am finally ready to make some pretty big purchases. I have whittled my choices down and I believe this is the best start.

I am trying my best to buy what I want for my final plan as I really don't want to spend money on something to "hold me over" so that may explain my mindset here.

Here is where I picture my jeep near completion. 37/38s, locked, armored, 5:38s, 60s. I know there are things that are needed to support this goal but I'm just mentioning the biggies so you guys get the idea. Here is the catch, I can't justify dropping 10k+ at once. I am looking at staying around 5 this go around so this is just a start.

So here it is...
RK 3.5 Max Flex
Currie Antirock
Gen right boatside sliders
Gen right Front aluminum bumper with trail stinger
Gen right Rear aluminum bumper
Winch.

I've tallied this to just around 5k give or take. This is also under the stipulation I do the labor myself which I plan on attempting maybe with some help.

I will keep the 33s I've got until they are dead so I know it might look a little "off" with the 3.5 but I can deal with that and hopefully hold me over until I am ready for the next step which will be the axles/tires.

Let's hear your opinions, be brutal.
Sounds good! but.....what are you gonna do for the ds to support that big a lift?
__________________
We're not stuck Chad and Justin gotta winch
mo1416 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:10 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
jasongind's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: The Mile High City
Posts: 735
I just read and watched the video on the anti-rock sway bar. I'm not understanding its use based on this statement from the Currie webpage, "Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This Sway Bar may be used on the street, however it will not provide the same performance as the stock setup."

If it is going to cause more body roll and not perform as well on the street, then why would i want it compared to just disconnecting my stock sway bar?
__________________
Teraflex 4" Long Arm Kit, Teraflex 1" Body Lift, M.O.R.E. 1" MML, Teraflex Belly-Up Kit, Rock Crawler 17" Wheels, 35" Toyo Open Country's, Uniden Cb, 2' Firestick Antenna
jasongind is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:15 PM   #12
Sponsoring Vendor
 
JPi4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 850
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasongind
I just read and watched the video on the anti-rock sway bar. I'm not understanding its use based on this statement from the Currie webpage, "Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This Sway Bar may be used on the street, however it will not provide the same performance as the stock setup."

If it is going to cause more body roll and not perform as well on the street, then why would i want it compared to just disconnecting my stock sway bar?
Because the work better than disconnected off road.

I took my e disco off to run these. I run a six inch lift and 39.5 s. the roll is acceptable on road. Last weekend I was on some pretty sever off camber and my ass didn't even pucker. Tons of stability and no loss of flex. Like I said they're perfect.
I'm running gen right on the front and currie on the rear.
__________________
Jeeperformance, Inc
Yucaipa CA.
877-795-JEEP
https://www.facebook.com/Jeeperformanceinc http://www.jeeperformanceinc.com/
JPi4.0 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 09:22 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
mo1416's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Broomfield Co
Posts: 1,240
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasongind View Post
I just read and watched the video on the anti-rock sway bar. I'm not understanding its use based on this statement from the Currie webpage, "Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This Sway Bar may be used on the street, however it will not provide the same performance as the stock setup."

If it is going to cause more body roll and not perform as well on the street, then why would i want it compared to just disconnecting my stock sway bar?
That's exactly what I'm curious about.
__________________
We're not stuck Chad and Justin gotta winch
mo1416 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 11:09 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
mo1416's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Broomfield Co
Posts: 1,240
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPi4.0 View Post
Because the work better than disconnected off road.

I took my e disco off to run these. I run a six inch lift and 39.5 s. the roll is acceptable on road. Last weekend I was on some pretty sever off camber and my ass didn't even pucker. Tons of stability and no loss of flex. Like I said they're perfect.
I'm running gen right on the front and currie on the rear.
Can you explain acceptable road roll please. Is it really noticible more so than stock? Does it make it more dangerous in bad weather driving?
__________________
We're not stuck Chad and Justin gotta winch
mo1416 is offline   Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 11:26 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
jasongind's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: The Mile High City
Posts: 735
How does it work better if it pulls the body along with the axle angle on flex, as oppose to the body sitting relatively flat when the axle is flexed?
__________________
Teraflex 4" Long Arm Kit, Teraflex 1" Body Lift, M.O.R.E. 1" MML, Teraflex Belly-Up Kit, Rock Crawler 17" Wheels, 35" Toyo Open Country's, Uniden Cb, 2' Firestick Antenna
jasongind is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 12:27 AM   #16
Sponsoring Vendor
 
JPi4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 850
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo1416
Can you explain acceptable road roll please. Is it really noticible more so than stock? Does it make it more dangerous in bad weather driving?
It is some additional roll but it is predictable. And becomes normal to the driver in short order. I am confident that I could do evasive maneuvers at freeway speeds if required. I also drive mountain roads often and don't have to drive any slower than I did before. That's the best way I can tell you that it is acceptable to me.
__________________
Jeeperformance, Inc
Yucaipa CA.
877-795-JEEP
https://www.facebook.com/Jeeperformanceinc http://www.jeeperformanceinc.com/
JPi4.0 is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 12:29 AM   #17
Sponsoring Vendor
 
JPi4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 850
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasongind
How does it work better if it pulls the body along with the axle angle on flex, as oppose to the body sitting relatively flat when the axle is flexed?
Flexed to the bumpstops. But you get the added stability of the swaybar being connected.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4185536584.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	101.9 KB
ID:	136099  
__________________
Jeeperformance, Inc
Yucaipa CA.
877-795-JEEP
https://www.facebook.com/Jeeperformanceinc http://www.jeeperformanceinc.com/
JPi4.0 is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 12:33 AM   #18
Sponsoring Vendor
 
JPi4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 850
A couple different looks
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4085538150.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	92.4 KB
ID:	136104   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3074335633.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	128.2 KB
ID:	136105  

__________________
Jeeperformance, Inc
Yucaipa CA.
877-795-JEEP
https://www.facebook.com/Jeeperformanceinc http://www.jeeperformanceinc.com/
JPi4.0 is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 12:52 AM   #19
Jeeper
 
jasongind's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: The Mile High City
Posts: 735
Hmm, I'll do some more research on it. It just doesn't make sense. I seen the Currie set up on a Jeep in Dillon, CO over the past weekend and it looked pretty cool.
__________________
Teraflex 4" Long Arm Kit, Teraflex 1" Body Lift, M.O.R.E. 1" MML, Teraflex Belly-Up Kit, Rock Crawler 17" Wheels, 35" Toyo Open Country's, Uniden Cb, 2' Firestick Antenna
jasongind is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 12:53 AM   #20
Jeeper
 
GSPup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 559
Let me try to explain how I look at it. Coil springs do not locate where the axles are, they only suspend the frame, location is the job of the control arms. The sway bar is the final device to control the relationship between axle and frame because the control arms can't do this alone. This is why leaf springs don't require control arms. So basically the anti-rock allows the front more movement (without increasing body roll), it doesn't 'pull' the body. Front and rear swaybars work with each other to minimize body roll while allowing the suspension to achieve maximum flexibility. Sorry for the long post.
GSPup is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 03:27 AM   #21
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOSEknuckles View Post
I think 5.38's may be overkill for only 37/38's, might want to look at 5.13's... As far as your future plans with one tons and lifts, I'm not familiar with the RK 3.5 but if it requires welding/custom fitting for the brackets and what not, and you don't do the work yourself, you will essentially be paying double to have someone put it on your stock axles the. Cutting it off and redoing it on your new one tons. Just a thought. I just did this, made the call to just go to tons and save a little money not having to redo it. Is the RK 3.5 a long arm? If it is there are a bunch of great upgrades that could go with it. Not so much cosmetics as all the flashy bumpers but IMO much more valuable on the trail.
The 3.5 max is still a bolt on. But it comes with high steer, full set of control arms and so forth. It seems like about the most complete kit before I'd have to get into cutting and welding.
Trust me, I am all for having more trail value then cosmetic, but the tons are still a ways away for me. Most manufactures have near complete axles already with ARBs, and shipped with the gear set of your choice. So by the time I have someone install gears and lockers, gussets and sleaves I would be getting to the point where for not much more I can have 60s. I don't want to think Damn... I could have saved for a couple more months and just been done with it.

They are flashy bumpers, and on the high end of the price range. But not many brands are offering aluminum and I really like the design.


Thanks for your input so far gents... This isn't stone, it's just what I've come up with as a first step. So I am open to different ideas as well
jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 08:32 AM   #22
Jeeper
 
wanderlust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 1,350
I know the RK says it is bolt on.. Read the fine print. You have to weld the rear trackbar bracket. That lift is the best for a stock length system. If you have the 3.8l 5:38s for heavy 37s or 38s is about right. If you have a 2012 with the 3.6l you can get away with much less gear. Warning about aluminum stuff. I actually talked to poison spider about it and this was the deal, we live in CO, with the abilities of what you are building aluminum may not be up to the task for this area. I would at least reconsider having aluminum rocker protection, with a 4door you will be on the rockers alot.

Many here have seen my rig and wheeled with me, I will tell you what I have and how I got to this point and what I would of done differently. I started with the 3.5"RK xfactor as the max didnt exist. I used the springs that came with it but used FOX shocks from teraflex. The shocks are for a 4-6 inch lift. This worked well but the ride was a little harsh. Next round of mods was EVO plush ride springs, currie rear spring retainers, terafelx speed bumps and an evo draglink flip kit, I have cheap smittybuilt xrc bumpers and stock rubicon rocker protection. Starting from scratch, I would do the RK max, EVO springs and EVO spec king shocks with teraflex speedbumps. Or RK 3.5 max, evo bolt on coilovers. (may be an issue with the rear as RK change the location of the axles)

I am at the limit of stockish length arms, the axle swing arc is so extreme that I am having a few issues. My stock ball joints are completely trashed, stock steering linkages are NOT up to the task of 37s.

Wheeling the rocks with a 4dr with 3-4 inches of lift, you will use the bumpers, be on the frame, bash the fuel tank skid often, and be on the rockers often.

Hope this helps in some ways
__________________
2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
wanderlust is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 10:41 AM   #23
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
Thanks for the input. I remember watching your jeep closely and was kind of my inspiration to go ahead and go bigger. I have the 3.8 and it is a non rubi so I don't have the tight ratio of the rock trac so am Im pretty sold with the 5:38s option.
If I downgraded my bumper options to steel I could definately use some of that coin towards something else. Do you feel that if you went with aluminum bumpers you would have any advantage over what you have now? I know the weight difference is extreme which I am sure has an effect on breaking and possibly on the ride quality as well based on the suspension setup.
Seems like the springs are either too soft for the trail or to harsh for the street. Was that your reasoning for switching to the Evos? My plan was to go with the Bilstein 5100s for shocks as well. Makes me wonder about the Dual rate springs though...
jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 07:37 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
wanderlust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 1,350
My reason for switching to evo springs was for several reasons. 1. They are softer, but you need a good shock to control them. 2. They have a longer unsprung height, so they stay put better. 3. with all the weight of the bumpers and armor and spare tire, they settled to a nice 3" lift. EVO has the king shocks valved specifically for their spring rate, the FOX shocks seem to work well, but, I have heard the kings are even better. Being a non rubicon I would say you are stuck going to a 5:38 gear. I didnt go aluminum for cost and I knew They were going to see some abuse. Personally I think spending a little more $ on a suspension nets a better result than bling light weight aluminum armor.
__________________
2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
wanderlust is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 08:05 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
mattr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 261
I admit I didn't read every post here but I'm assuming you're not going to run 5.38's in a Dana 30 its going to be at the limit even in the Dana 44.. if you are planning to do so watch wayoflife's videos on YouTube to see what happens
__________________
2013 Billet Silver Rubicon, 18/59 JKU springs with 3/4 inch spacers, Procomp shocks, 35" MTRs
Build Thread http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/pr...er-437457.html
Sold-09 JKU Sport, teraflex coil lift, 3/4 danna 44 front Eaton locker C gussets and RCV axle shafts, dana 44 rear with detroit trutrac LSD, 5.13 gears, 35" MTRs
mattr is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 08:35 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
-
jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 08:37 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattr View Post
I admit I didn't read every post here but I'm assuming you're not going to run 5.38's in a Dana 30 its going to be at the limit even in the Dana 44.. if you are planning to do so watch wayoflife's videos on YouTube to see what happens
That's correct. Ultimately looking to upgrade to 60s when I reach that point. I am trying to get the most ability on the trail without touching my stock axles and remaining on the 33s, while also setting my suspension components up for success when I make the big jump to 37s. You can think of this as the first phase of achieving my goal of running 37-38s.

Did you ever figure out that vibration issue with the 44s you picked up?

@ wonderlust

I see what you are saying, I am leaning towards really cutting back on the bumpers to make sure I have the suspension I need to support a good ride and the bigger tires when I get there. I can drop the rear bumper and go with a stubby steal winch bumper up front. Probably shift some of that to more skid protection as well. Again, I appreciate the input. I am trying to get this right the first time.
jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 08:41 PM   #28
Jeeper
 
mattr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 261
Sorry I was scrolling through the thread on my phone and got yelled at before I finished reading... Sounds like you have a plan.

Yeah a shim was loose and when I turned on my E locker the magnet sucked it out and ran it through the ring and pinion... Atleast that's what our jeep CSI skills led us to believe. all good now though
__________________
2013 Billet Silver Rubicon, 18/59 JKU springs with 3/4 inch spacers, Procomp shocks, 35" MTRs
Build Thread http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/pr...er-437457.html
Sold-09 JKU Sport, teraflex coil lift, 3/4 danna 44 front Eaton locker C gussets and RCV axle shafts, dana 44 rear with detroit trutrac LSD, 5.13 gears, 35" MTRs
mattr is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #29
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 987
Ouch glad that worked out.

I'd say I have a decent general idea lol. I don't think I can call it a plan yet. I don't get approval from my life secretary very often to make large purchases like this so I can't afford to have to change things around.
jagerhelix is offline   Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 09:01 PM   #30
Jeeper
 
mattr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 261
If I would have planned things out better not a single one of my aftermarket parts would be on my Jeep.. Regret every one of them

mattr is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:43 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC