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Old 01-08-2013, 08:16 AM   #1
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My Jeep Upgrade

So on 12/21 I decided to start my Jeep upgrade and started taking my Jeep named Bruiser apart. I had two weeks off of work for the holidays and spent almost everyday from morning until night in the garage. I'm glad I have a very understanding wife! So the planned upgrades are:
  • Rear long arm upgrade
  • Upgrade front control arm heim joints to Johnny Joints on one end
  • Rear coil spring relocation
  • Out board rear shocks
  • Flip rear disc brakes
  • Install Poison Spyder front fenders
  • Install Poison Spyder rear armor
  • Install LED tail lights
  • Powder coat springs and new Poison Spyder diff cover
So let's get started!



I decided to start on the front end first. I had to widen the brackets on the frame to handle the wider Johnny Joints.


Installed Johnny Joints, controls arms are ready to go back in.



The front end is back together minus the spring and shock.


Now on to the rear, time to pull the Ford 8.8 out


Had to completely disassemble the 8.8 to flip the disc brakes around to make room for the out boarded shocks. I had planned on removing my Detroit locker and upgrading to an ARB this spring. It seemed kind of crazy to completely tear the axle apart again this spring, so the wife said "Just go get the ARB now", I love my wife!

Axle with flipped disc brakes waiting for the ARB


Got a Christmas sale on the ARB from 4 Wheel parts and got the locker installed and waiting for new shock brackets


Need to remove the old control arm brackets and coil spring brackets



Weld on the new control arm brackets from Under Cover Fab



Removed the old lower rear shock brackets from the axle and install the new shock mounts that I fabricated to the back of the lower control arm brackets


Install rear axle with new control arms and you can see the new coil spring bracket installed


More to come!

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:25 AM   #2
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Time to out board the shocks. Measure and mark 30 times, cut once.



I'm using the Ford truck shock mounts as outlined in Stu Olsens site. Test fitting the shock tower


All welded in and painted


The new shocks got delivered, this is a long shock!! That is a 35" tire!


Shocks have over 14" of travel, they will not bottom out when on the bump stops



Out boarded shocks are done!

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:55 AM   #3
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Very nice work man!
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:26 PM   #4
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Man, Terry, you are going to have one awesome Jeep!

Have a question for you, when you relocated the rear spring perches how much did it affect the spring compression height?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:48 PM   #5
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Ed,

Thanks for the compliments. Not sure if it has effected it yet. The springs are still at the powder coaters, I'll let you know when I get them in.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:54 PM   #6
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What's the benefit of out-boarding the rear springs?
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #7
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Ed,

Thanks for the compliments. Not sure if it has effected it yet. The springs are still at the powder coaters, I'll let you know when I get them in.
Thanks, I've been wondering about it because I'm planning on doing that as part of next springs suspension revamp. According to Jeff Rokmen the vertical spring really helps smooth out suspension action, but the effective spring compression is going to increase because it's no longer biased by the former angle of the spring. I'm just curious how much effect it really has because it will in part determine my effective rear spring height and rate.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:38 PM   #8
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Very nice!
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:00 AM   #9
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Woot!!!!!
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:11 AM   #10
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Jasongind,

Out-boarding the rear shocks does a couple of things. It gives you the ability to run a longer shock which gives you more shock travel. The shocks that I just put on have over 14" of travel. It also moves the lower shock mount to the back of the lower control arm mount. You can then remove the old shock mount from the axle which is one less thing to hang up on rocks. It is also to help with stability.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:56 AM   #11
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Jasongind,

Out-boarding the rear shocks does a couple of things. It gives you the ability to run a longer shock which gives you more shock travel. The shocks that I just put on have over 14" of travel. It also moves the lower shock mount to the back of the lower control arm mount. You can then remove the old shock mount from the axle which is one less thing to hang up on rocks. It is also to help with stability.
Cool, thanks for the info. Your Jeep is looking real good. Hopefully I'll be able to start doing some upgrades again soon. I'm waiting to here back from Jeff at Rockmen about when he can do 4:88's in my rig
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:01 PM   #12
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My Jeep has 4:56's and they work pretty well with 35", but I wish they were 4:88's.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:38 PM   #13
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Yeah, I'm going to going to 4.88's as well. 4.56 would work ok but that little extra bump will be nice especially since I live at 8500 feet
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:47 AM   #14
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Waiting on parts from powder coat to finish the bottom of the Jeep so it's time to start the exterior work. Starting fitting the PSC rear armor with 3" flare and PSC Defender front fenders with 3" flare.

Rear Armor


Front Fender


It's starting to take shape


The pieces head off to the painter next weekend, need to finish fitting everything up and then disassemble.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:06 AM   #15
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Now I see what your secret is....You have a heated garage.

Try those mods in my garage and you will give up before you get the jackstands set.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:30 PM   #16
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No kidding, I won't even think about working on my Jeep in the winter unless it's at least forty degrees outside
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #17
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I've always wondered about those 1/4s. I guess it's best to put them on before you crunch a stock 1/4 panel. How do you keep the original skin from rotting out underneath an aftermarket. Or is it cut off, and there is no skin underneath. My ol'lady would kill me if I removed a perfectly good set of 1/4s. She won't even let me remove the smitty nurfs.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:43 PM   #18
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There is no cutting involved in the rear 1/4, just need to make sure you have good paint between them. The ones I'm installing are aluminum so they won't rust.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:52 PM   #19
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Exceptionally nice work. Wish I had even 1/4 of the skills necessary.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:12 AM   #20
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Fenders and rear armor have all been modified and are ready for the painter. Hung the new doors tonight and got them all aligned.


Also got my parts back from the powder coater today so now it's time to start assembly for good, I think I'm finally on the down hill side now!!!
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:36 AM   #21
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Nice progress man.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:08 AM   #22
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Nice work Terry! I can't wait to see it in person.

You gonna be around this weekend?

Need any help now that most of the hard work is done?
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:52 PM   #23
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Tom,

Your always welcome to come on by and help or just hang out. I'm running parts to the painter Saturday morning, should be back around 2 or 3 to start cranking on the Jeep again. Should be working on the Jeep all day Sunday and Monday. Let me know if you want to come by.

Terry
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #24
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Dodger Blue!!


Looking awesome man. Wish I had the abilities to do that type of work. Keep up with the pictures.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:09 PM   #25
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How about some pictures of the front diff control arm bracket relocation? Seems like.... with them so close together they would be more susceptible to wanting to tear off of the diff.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:58 AM   #26
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You looking for pictures where they mount on the frame or on the axle? I only added width to the frame bracket, the one on the axle will be much harder so still running heim joints there.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:49 PM   #27
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You looking for pictures where they mount on the frame or on the axle?
Wanted to see the axle side, maybe a close up. Looks interesting....yet unstable.

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Old 01-18-2013, 06:06 PM   #28
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I'll get some pictures for you this weekend. They were done by the original owner when the Dana 44 was put in around 9 years ago. This Jeep has wheeled a lot since it was done with no problems at all.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:20 PM   #29
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I'll get some pictures for you this weekend.
I measured my stock locations at verticle between upper arm and lower arm. 9" at the axle and 7" at the frame. When the springs compress and stretch, it keeps the pinion angle aligned with the driveshaft to the transfer case.

Yours look almost parallel along their length. Seems like it would alter pinion angle with a change in axle position. I can understand getting the lower arm up behind the axle to increase ground clearance. But it seems to increase the chance of axle wrap, or camming over, and even torque in the brackets.

But I love that rear end set up. I need to upgrade from stick welding. Takes to damn long.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:44 PM   #30
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I measured my stock locations at verticle between upper arm and lower arm. 9" at the axle and 7" at the frame. When the springs compress and stretch, it keeps the pinion angle aligned with the driveshaft to the transfer case.

Yours look almost parallel along their length. Seems like it would alter pinion angle with a change in axle position. I can understand getting the lower arm up behind the axle to increase ground clearance. But it seems to increase the chance of axle wrap, or camming over, and even torque in the brackets.

But I love that rear end set up. I need to upgrade from stick welding. Takes to damn long.
As far as the front driveshaft and pinion angle, the shaft is generally long enough to account for maximum articulation. You will have trouble clearing your steering and diffs before your front driveshaft binds.

Parallel control arms are what you want. Smooth on the highway, tucked from the rocks, and more than enough droop. A long parallel upper does no harm. Only absorbs energy better than shorter arms. I'm not sure what you mean by axle wrap? That's a term commonly used with leaf springs. The axle can't really push forward of its normal position with 4 control arms holding it in place? I might be confused on your choice of words though.

I think his setup is beautiful.

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