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Old 02-28-2013, 08:56 PM   #1
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Need ideas sheared motor mount bolts.

Was wheeling up in LHC and snapped a rear U-Joint. We disconnected the rear drive to be able to drive in FWD home (17+ miles) Was about 4 blocks from home when I heard a *SNAP*. Was unable to get it into the direction of 1st and 2nd, look underneath and find this.




Sheared the bolts off of the left side of the motor. So my question is how do I get them out?

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Old 02-28-2013, 09:13 PM   #2
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Use an easy out. Drill a hole in the center of the remainder of the bolt and use the easy out to turn them out. Since it's an embedded bolt they should come out quite easily.

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Old 02-28-2013, 09:16 PM   #3
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Oh yeah, if you don't have enough room for the drill you'll have to pull the engine. Oh yeah, you might want to consider finesse instead of full throttle...
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:23 PM   #4
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You will also need to replace your rear motor mount. If it wasn't already toast, causing the front mount to shear, it is now.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:27 PM   #5
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Thanks man I really do appreciate it!
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:38 PM   #6
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One last question. What is the size of easy out will I need so I can have a buddy order it off of the Snap On truck.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:53 PM   #7
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Can't remember the bolt size, probably the metric equivalent of 7/16 or 1/12. One for that size of bolt should work fine.

The rear motor mount is more than likely toast. which probably snapped the u joint. Buddy of mine broke three u joints before he found out his rear motor mount was trashed.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:56 PM   #8
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Do you have a diagram on where the rear motor mount is? I'm looking on Google and can't find anything.

Thanks!
Terry
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:00 PM   #9
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His buddy that's doing the work here.

I only saw the driver's side/pass side mounts. No mount visable where I would imagine there should be one, which is in the back in between the motor and firewall. So, what's the deal? Where are the mounts located on this thing besides the two mentioned and the trans mount/skid plate?
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:00 PM   #10
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Block your transmission, drop the skid plate, you can't miss it There are four recessed bolts holding the motor mount in the center of the skid plate that you need to take off before you drop the skid.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Block your transmission, drop the skid plate, you can't miss it There are four recessed bolts holding the motor mount in the center of the skid plate that you need to take off before you drop the skid.
Should have said transmission mount...

Two motor mounts and one transmission mount.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:06 PM   #12
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Should have said transmission mount...

Two motor mounts and one transmission mount.
Yep, exactly what I thought. Thanks for clarifying, and the additional info. We're going to look into lifted mounts for the thing. Ohhh, man... I'm looking forward to extracting those things.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #13
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As for drilling out those bolts. There looks to be enough sticking out, that I would file or grind flat before I started drilling a hole in them. Center punch the bolt, then start drilling with small drill bits and get bigger, leaving enough meat for the easy out to bite but not swell the bolt into the threads.
3/16" might be the biggest drill bit you can use to keep the integrity of that bolt to be extracted.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:09 PM   #14
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should be a super suck fest. They look nice and flush with almost no room to get a good clean shot to them. wish you the best of luck.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:14 PM   #15
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He didn't shear the motor mount bolts, he sheared the bolts on the subframe that connects from the motor mount to the engine. The motor mount sits on top of that subframe, one on each side of the engine. There's only the three mounts. Looks like one of the bolts is either missing or broke a while ago which weakened the subframe mount. Would have been a lot easier if he had sheared the bolts on the motor mount itself. Extracting those bolts is not going to be a lot of fun. Good luck with it
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:23 PM   #16
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Extracting those bolts is not going to be a lot of fun. Good luck with it
Yeah, looks like the one on the right has been broke for a while.
I'd pull the motor and be accurate as to not mess up those threads.
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:16 PM   #17
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lol I am more concerned on that you don't carry an extra u joint!
Thats the first thing to go on drivetrain! If you beef other parts that is...
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:30 PM   #18
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Actually a Jk rubicon will shear a pinion before a 1350 ujoint.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:02 PM   #19
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Yep, exactly what I thought. Thanks for clarifying, and the additional info. We're going to look into lifted mounts for the thing. Ohhh, man... I'm looking forward to extracting those things.
If you can hang on for a bit I'll have a pair of Brown Dog one inch mounts for sale. They've been on my TJ for less than a year.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:15 PM   #20
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Actually a Jk rubicon will shear a pinion before a 1350 ujoint.
Thats a dumb design if you want something to go its the Ujoint, cheaper
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:00 PM   #21
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Brown Dog offers mounts and replacement brackets, including hardware. You could go with a kit like this:
S2883-0, TJ/LJ Super Kit w/ MM & Engine Brackets, Classic Polyurethane

All you have to do is dig the old bolts out and bolt these up. The engine mounts come in stock or 1" height, rubber or poly bushings. I've got their 1" mounts for my 2.5L, but have not used their replacement brackets.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:04 PM   #22
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If you can hang on for a bit I'll have a pair of Brown Dog one inch mounts for sale. They've been on my TJ for less than a year.

Sounds good PM me when they are available!
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:32 PM   #23
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It will be soon, I need to get them off cuz they lousing up my suspension plans

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