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Old 12-13-2012, 12:06 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhiskey
Hey before you go up to 37s I would upgrade your axle. Come to find out that's why mine failed! Just a though but don't want you to have to deal whit what I'm dealing with!
I'm going to do sleeve and gussets and rear with 37.

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Old 12-13-2012, 12:19 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by chrisfp88 View Post
I'm going to do sleeve and gussets and rear with 37.
Do you have d30's or 44's ?

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Old 12-13-2012, 12:20 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Rooster454

Do you have d30's or 44's ?
Front 30 rear 44. I was told if I do new sleeves and gussets for both I should be fine.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:25 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by chrisfp88 View Post
Front 30 rear 44. I was told if I do new sleeves and gussets for both I should be fine.
it's hard to say who's right and who's wrong. A buddy of mine back in VA literally blew up a 30 running 37's on it. Now I don't know what all he had on it protection wise, but I'd think about getting a 44 before 37's if I were you.

It's one of those things where you may be fine forever and you may blow it up really quickly. I'm no expert by any means, but I'd at least think about it
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:31 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster454

it's hard to say who's right and who's wrong. A buddy of mine back in VA literally blew up a 30 running 37's on it. Now I don't know what all he had on it protection wise, but I'd think about getting a 44 before 37's if I were you.

It's one of those things where you may be fine forever and you may blow it up really quickly. I'm no expert by any means, but I'd at least think about it
It's so much money. A new front axle is gonna be like $1500-2000 minimum.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:32 AM   #36
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Not sure where you'd be able to find a used set but if you can I would highly recommend DuraTracks for sure! I posted this little review in the general forum last year:
Holy Freakin 35" DuraTracs!!!

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So we had our first real snow fall of the year here last week and I wanted to post a little review regarding the performance of my new DuraTracs. I am completely amazed at how well they stuck to hard packed snow and slick ice. If you live in a snowy climate I donít think you could possibly find a better tire. Of course no tire can defy the laws of physics but this one comes pretty darn close.

So, on my first time out in the snow with my new DuraTracs (35ís or more precisely 315/70R17) last week the roads were absolutely horrendous. Just to give you an idea of how bad it really was, on a 3 mile stretch of highway I saw no less than a dozen cars in the ditch or median and actually witnessed a full-size pick-up in my rear view mirror do a complete 360 before sliding off into a ditch. For locals or anyone familiar with the area I was travelling on C470 between the Morrison exit and I-70 here in Colorado. I know I may sound like a commercial for Goodyear but Iím telling you these tires are truly amazing on snow and ice. So much so that they give you a false sense of security as they seem to stop on a dime and hold the road (rather ice/snow) in even the worst conditions. Now I just need to get a pair for my rear wheel drive BMW (j/k).
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:35 AM   #37
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It's so much money. A new front axle is gonna be like $1500-2000 minimum.
Look up Stadium Auto Parts in Denver. I was working on the Jeep at a garage that backs up to them and they 300-400 axles on their property. They might have a 44 you could use. It'd be worth a few minutes calling them
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:06 AM   #38
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If you are going to run 37's you need a built 44 front. A hp 30 will handle 35's but that's the practical limit. For 37's you will need gears in the 5.30 range at least and the pinon gear is going to look like a toothpick. You destroy that gearset a few times and the 44 is going to start looking like a pretty good deal. And if you are planning on pushing your rig hard you should be looking at least at a d60 rear. Just depends on how many times you want to destroy and rebuild your axles. It's your money.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:35 AM   #39
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If you are going to run 37's you need a built 44 front. A hp 30 will handle 35's but that's the practical limit. For 37's you will need gears in the 5.30 range at least and the pinon gear is going to look like a toothpick. You destroy that gearset a few times and the 44 is going to start looking like a pretty good deal. And if you are planning on pushing your rig hard you should be looking at least at a d60 rear. Just depends on how many times you want to destroy and rebuild your axles. It's your money.
I won't push it any harder than I have been just want better performance. I could do a 44 front I guess. I don't want a 60. I'll call that place George suggested but I don't wanna spend heaps of money for a front 44 that I'm gonna have to modify and rear anyway.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:35 AM   #40
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Exactly! I'm thinking about dropping from the 37"s to 35"s so I don't have this problem again! But depending on what happens with the lawyer and stuff I want to upgrade to a g2 Dana 60 with 488 gears
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:45 PM   #41
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Well I called 3 parts shops in Denver. No Front Dana 44's. I really don't want to spend $2500 to get one.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:18 PM   #42
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Then I wouldn't go up to 37" any time soon
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:26 PM   #43
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Then I wouldn't go up to 37" any time soon
Agreed.

Funny, tons of folks will say not to even do 37's with a 44 without a ton of work!

The best way it was explained to me when I was looking is this:

Even if you wheel the EXACT same way with bigger tires, you've got a notably larger contact patch, increasing traction & therefore force on the axles & gears. Where you would have slipped before, you'll grab, and stress the axle. You've also got more leverage from the taller tire, increasing leverage on the axle tubes & c's.

SO, the second you put larger tires on, you're stressing the setup more, even without what we would think is "stressing" it.

That was from a good friend of mine that is NOT a "you gotta do this or else" kind of person, in our discussion when I was deciding between a sport & a rubi. That's why I got my rubi, I thought he explained it pretty well.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:05 PM   #44
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I was gonna sleeve and Gusset them both, but all of this just sounds like a $5000+ day and I just don't know that I want to spend that much. I have to sleeve and gusset my current axles pretty soon here for the 35's I have been running and will probably do the locker in the rear and regear at the same time. That alone will be a $3500+ day.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:47 PM   #45
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If you sleeve and gusset, then your next weak point is the 27 spline axle shafts correct? After that its ring and pinion size which becomes more prone to disaster with a higher gear ratio. I'll be going with 37s well before I put a 44 in. besides, I have to wait for dan's rig to explode so I can start picking up the pieces to build a PR 44, or a 44/60 lol
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:00 PM   #46
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I figure I will sell my built front axle for around 2500 when the time comes. 44 or a 30 completely built with RCVs both have the same issue, tiny pinion gears. On a jk the ONLY difference between a 44 and a 30 are the diff center (ring gear size) and the axle shafts. the tubes, C knuckles and steering knuckles, ball joints are identical. Which is why I have been very hesitant on changing my gears. The 4:10s are manageable but far from ideal. The jk has a 44 hybrid, not a true Dana 44 front axle. Now that being said, in my opinion gusset and sleeve your 30, put good ball joints in it and some chromoly axles or rcvs in it and start saving for a rock jock or dynatrac 60. I believe I spent 1500 and a Saturday on my front axle. How long will it live, who knows. I hope for a little while as I have to put a 60 in the rear first. I figure even with 4:10s either my locker or pinion will check out at somepoint.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:26 PM   #47
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I figure I will sell my built front axle for around 2500 when the time comes. 44 or a 30 completely built with RCVs both have the same issue, tiny pinion gears. On a jk the ONLY difference between a 44 and a 30 are the diff center (ring gear size) and the axle shafts. the tubes, C knuckles and steering knuckles, ball joints are identical. Which is why I have been very hesitant on changing my gears. The 4:10s are manageable but far from ideal. The jk has a 44 hybrid, not a true Dana 44 front axle. Now that being said, in my opinion gusset and sleeve your 30, put good ball joints in it and some chromoly axles or rcvs in it and start saving for a rock jock or dynatrac 60. I believe I spent 1500 and a Saturday on my front axle. How long will it live, who knows. I hope for a little while as I have to put a 60 in the rear first. I figure even with 4:10s either my locker or pinion will check out at somepoint.
So you think if I reinforce my 30 with the gussets, sleeves, and ball joints and potentially axles I could run 37's? I keep hearing a different story everywhere I go. A bit of back story I will also be trying to do a re-gear and lock the rear this spring. the 3.73's just aren't cutting it anymore. Also thanks Dan. You have been a wealth of information as you have actually tested most of this stuff and run the same year, all be it a different model.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:54 PM   #48
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37s on a geared 30 will not last long. 37s on a geared 44 will last only a little longer. Being open front diff may help it last a little longer. You are going to have to be careful
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:57 PM   #49
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37s on a geared 30 will not last long. 37s on a geared 44 will last only a little longer. Being open front diff may help it last a little longer. You are going to have to be careful
Ok. I was gonna leave it open, but it kind of scares me.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:02 PM   #50
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37s on a geared 30 will not last long. 37s on a geared 44 will last only a little longer. Being open front diff may help it last a little longer. You are going to have to be careful
So does anyone want to take a poll on how long my Aussie locked 5:13 d30 will last lol? I'm hoping one summer.

Besides, if I start donating plasma now and saving I'll be all set!
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:19 PM   #51
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So does anyone want to take a poll on how long my Aussie locked 5:13 d30 will last lol? I'm hoping one summer.

Besides, if I start donating plasma now and saving I'll be all set!
There's a thought. How much do I get for plasma?
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:56 PM   #52
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So does anyone want to take a poll on how long my Aussie locked 5:13 d30 will last lol? I'm hoping one summer.

Besides, if I start donating plasma now and saving I'll be all set!
You better start going now and as frequently as they allow haha

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There's a thought. How much do I get for plasma?
The last girl I dated was a phlebotomist and I think her clinic gave $35 per donation so it's not much, but all you have to do is sit there

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