Upgrading to 37" Tires??????????????? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > WF Local > WF Local Forums for Your Region and State > Colorado Jeep Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 09-09-2013, 10:49 PM   #1
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Upgrading to 37" Tires???????????????

Please bear with me on this one as it's going to be kind of a long post. I think I've read just about every thread on various forums related to what's required for 37" tires and the opinions are quite literally all over the board. That being said I thought I'd post my question here amongst people who wheel under the same conditions that I do (the Rocky Mountains) and drive on pavement under similar conditions (foothills, I-70 up to the tunnels, etc). Yes this Jeep is also my daily driver.

I've been running 35's with the AEV 3.5" lift on my 2012 JKUR (auto) with 4.10's, and Spidertrax wheel spacers since a week after buying it new. I'm ready for new tires already (yeah those Duratracs are awesome but they definitely wear out fast as hell). I had planned on regearing to something more appropriate for 35's and of course you all know how it goes, the "gears" in your brain start turning and you start making that argument in your head, "Well, since I'm getting new tires and gears anyway I may as well upgrade to 37" inch tires and the appropriate gears for 37's, I mean shit I already have the AEV bumper and spare tire carrier that's capable of holding 37's anyway so why not".

As I've been researching this issue I'm seeing some guys who'll just slap on the 37's with a 4.5" lift, even keeping the 4.10's without any other mods and hit the trail (sounds like they're just asking for trouble to me). Then on the other end of the spectrum you'll see guys doing a 4.5 inch lift, gears, gussets, sleeves, axle shafts, ball joints, drive shafts, the kitchen sink, etc.

I want to do this right or not at all. If it turns out doing it "right" is beyond what I'm willing to spend then I'll just stick with 35s and regear and call it a day. It's not like I have any complaints about my current set-up but you all know about the "bug" when it comes to upgrading.

Finally all that being said, we get to my question. What is really needed to move to 37"s the right way? I mean is it really necessary to swap out perfectly good axle shafts, ball joints, drive shafts, etc, on a 2-year-old Jeep with about 17K miles on it in order to significantly decrease the risk of breaking something and being left stranded out in the middle of nowhere. And yes of course as all of us Jeepers know, we run the risk of breaking something and being stranded anytime we hit the trail, I'm just not looking to increase the likelihood of that happening by adding larger tires into the picture and creating a likely point of failure some where in the set up.

So, can I get some help from my fellow Colorado Jeepers in putting together a list of items that would need to be addressed in order to move from my current set-up to 37's. Again, just to clarify, I want to do this correctly or not at all however some of the things I've seen people doing seem like it's a bit of over-kill but I don't really know since I've never attempted to wheel on 37's and I don't know how easily an axle shaft can be snapped when running 37's in a situation that ends up putting a little too much torque into the equation. Thanking everyone in advance for your feedback and suggestions.

-MajorChuck

Oh and a few pics of my current set-up as a point of reference, thanks again for your help on this everyone:










__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 01:30 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
G-Rocc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 569
I would say at an absolute minimum you need to do chromo shafts. Was with a guy this weekend on 37s and he snapped his stock shaft which in turn lead to him blowing out his spider gears.

Gears will be mainly for performance and drivability. It is a significant increase from 35-37 and you should not wheel a stick set up without beefing up your driveline.

__________________
Set Them Free Off Road

My Build Thread

Come, let us go up to the mountains.
Micah 4:2
G-Rocc is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 01:58 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
Do you have a d44 or d30 front? I would say at minimum, chromo shafts+sleeve and Gusset your axle. Have the gears cryo treat prior to install. You will definitely want the proper gearing as well or driveability and gas mileage will suffer. Consider a front locker if you don't already have a rubi.... Not much more money in the grand scheme of things and despite it cause a lot of debat, I believe personally you are less likely to break something locked with traction rather than spinning your tires trying to get traction.......
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 03:23 PM   #4
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rocc View Post
.....Was with a guy this weekend on 37s and he snapped his stock shaft which in turn lead to him blowing out his spider gears.....
I definitely don't want to be that guy! But I also don't want to go overboard upgrading a lot of things that really don't need to be done. Thanks for the feedback!
__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 03:29 PM   #5
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckenridgeTJ View Post
Do you have a d44 or d30 front? I would say at minimum, chromo shafts+sleeve and Gusset your axle. Have the gears cryo treat prior to install. You will definitely want the proper gearing as well or driveability and gas mileage will suffer. Consider a front locker if you don't already have a rubi.... Not much more money in the grand scheme of things and despite it cause a lot of debat, I believe personally you are less likely to break something locked with traction rather than spinning your tires trying to get traction.......
It's a 2012 Rubi so it does have the d44's on both axles and of course lockers as well. Wow, I've never even heard of "cryo treatment" so I had to Google it and found a pretty good article here. Sounds like it would be worth doing. From the 2 replies so far it doesn't look like it's necessary to upgrade the stock ball joints? Thanks for the info and suggestions!
__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 03:35 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
You could do moog ball joints while its apart to sleeve/gusset to save the labor/time down the road, but it wouldn't necessarily be required..... What type of trails do you want to run? If you're going to run penrose, the answer for "needs" is different that say msv/coney and wheeler lake....
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 03:38 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
GSPup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorChuck View Post
It's a 2012 Rubi so it does have the d44's on both axles and of course lockers as well. Wow, I've never even heard of "cryo treatment" so I had to Google it and found a pretty good article here. Sounds like it would be worth doing. From the 2 replies so far it doesn't look like it's necessary to upgrade the stock ball joints? Thanks for the info and suggestions!
I agree...I think cromo shafts in front and a steering upgrade would be the ticket here to start. Later on you can re-gear if you feel the need. Ball joints are replaceable when the time comes as they shouldn't catastrophically fail on the trail. Not sure cryo treating is really worth the money if you're not beating on your junk ?
GSPup is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 03:57 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSPup View Post

I agree...I think cromo shafts in front and a steering upgrade would be the ticket here to start. Later on you can re-gear if you feel the need. Ball joints are replaceable when the time comes as they shouldn't catastrophically fail on the trail. Not sure cryo treating is really worth the money if you're not beating on your junk ?
Cryo treating is actually cheap.... I think f/r is about 75.00..... Strength gains are reasonably high... Not a hugely necessary process, but cost is pretty low for the benefits. It's something I will always do.... But I agree mike... Not necessary. More a piece of mind option
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 04:20 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
GSPup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckenridgeTJ View Post
Cryo treating is actually cheap.... I think f/r is about 75.00..... Strength gains are reasonably high... Not a hugely necessary process, but cost is pretty low for the benefits. It's something I will always do.... But I agree mike... Not necessary. More a piece of mind option
Good point...I assumed it would be at least double that cost, guess I was wrong.
GSPup is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 04:36 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSPup View Post
Good point...I assumed it would be at least double that cost, guess I was wrong.
It could be depending on who is used to do it.... I just look at the 35-50% strength gain.... when debating it... a regear is 1000-1500 typically.... In the grand scheme of things it isn't much if it saves them from having to replace gears down the road.... granted the "just a little more, just a little more" is a vicious cycle.... Where do you draw the line? bank account=
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 09:19 PM   #11
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckenridgeTJ View Post
You could do moog ball joints while its apart to sleeve/gusset to save the labor/time down the road, but it wouldn't necessarily be required..... What type of trails do you want to run? If you're going to run penrose, the answer for "needs" is different that say msv/coney and wheeler lake....
Definitely like to hit trails that are a little more challenging than msv/coney flats however I don't anticipate running trails like penrose where you can pretty much expect to break something and/or end up with body damage.

At this point it's sounding like I'll need to swap out a few components to increase my lift from 3.5" to 4.5", swap out the stock axle shafts for chromo's, regrear, and gusset/sleeve. That sound about right to everyone?
__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 09:45 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
GSPup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorChuck View Post

Definitely like to hit trails that are a little more challenging than msv/coney flats however I don't anticipate running trails like penrose where you can pretty much expect to break something and/or end up with body damage.

At this point it's sounding like I'll need to swap out a few components to increase my lift from 3.5" to 4.5", swap out the stock axle shafts for chromo's, regrear, and gusset/sleeve. That sound about right to everyone?
Or just cut your stock fenders, there is no real
need to increase your lift....but the rest sounds good. There are some guys who know JK's better than me who will hopefully post up on here. I know they are over on the JK forums more.
GSPup is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-10-2013, 11:03 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
G-Rocc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 569
Maybe Dan or John can jump in. Both of them are on 37's and I think there lifts are pretty low.
__________________
Set Them Free Off Road

My Build Thread

Come, let us go up to the mountains.
Micah 4:2
G-Rocc is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-11-2013, 03:36 PM   #14
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rocc View Post
Maybe Dan or John can jump in. Both of them are on 37's and I think there lifts are pretty low.
I'd love to hear from anyone running 37" tires. As I was debating this upgrade last night I started wondering if it was really worth the expense to go from 35" to 37". I'm wondering if it will be a significant improvement or not. Obviously going from stock to 37"ers you'd see a huge difference but is the "bang for the buck" there when going from 35" to 37". Anyone running 37", especially anyone who went from 35" to 37" I'd really like to get your feedback here. Thanks to everyone who's responded so far.
__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-11-2013, 04:20 PM   #15
Moderator

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Sinister6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,410
I had considered jumping to 37's but as I did a cost/ benefit assessment I personally decided to stay with 35's. maybe down the line as my rig goes from DD to a off road rig I may make the switch.
My buddy has been running 37's on chromo shafts on a Dana30 for 10 years...never broken anything but he wheels "smart" doesn't try a set trail speed records etc.
__________________
The Wolf is not concerned with the opinion of sheep.

MY BUILD: :
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f322/si...ad-235526.html
Sinister6 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
wanderlust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 1,332
Oh the great tire debate... Well, John is In The 4.5 inch range with 37s I am at about 3 with 37s. In my experience and opinion, gusset the front axle knuckles, run a good shaft and go with a heavy duty tierod and draglink. That will do ok for the front axle.
Rear axle is a crap shoot. I personally ran my stock shafts until they twisted and bent at the flange, about 1.5 years of hard abuse on 37s. Stockers will twist and bent before they break. You just have to pull them out every few months and inspect them. I currently run chromo rear shafts. Problem with that is they will snap when they go with little to no warning.
John and I both still run 4:10s for strength reasons. Once you start getting in the the 5:xx range is when you really start to break stuff. Expensive stuff.
We both run aftermarket driveshafts front and rear. Johns '13 has a little stronger front axle shaft than the '12s did. He is going to run till they go as between the 2 of us we have a complete set of spare front and rear shafts.
The difference between 35s and 37s is night and day on the trails and street. Beast on the trail and a bear on the road. My pitbull rockers wander and shake on the road, the nitto mud grapplers balance well and other than the noise run nice on the road.
It really come down to your wheeling style. If you are a finesse driver, 37s won't really effect much on your drive train. If you are a hoss on the skinny pedal, well.. The added traction from 37s are going to most likely start breaking stuff.
Oh, for comparison John is an auto I am a stick. Hope some of this helps.
__________________
2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
wanderlust is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2013, 01:40 AM   #17
Jeeper
 
jagerhelix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CoLoRaDo
Posts: 967
37s made a HUGE difference. Especially with the longer wheel base on the 4 door. I feel like the longer wheelbase was finally becoming an advantage once I got the belly up a bit more. I'm on 3.5". My setup is rcv chromoly shafts in front with 5:13s and an Aussie locker. HD tie rod, sleeves, gussets, hydro assist steering, and just did new ball joints too. I've got the 3.8 and it was unbearable with the 3:73s. Sleeves and gussets and understanding you can't hammer on it will handle 37s, then you can build from there. Good luck with your decision.
__________________
jagerhelix is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2013, 02:51 AM   #18
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
I have to say go 37's on a jku.... I feel it is the equivalent of 35's on a 2 door/tj.... I have a ton if friends running 37's on the jku rubis with zero issues.... 90% of them are running stock shafts as well. I would be much more concerned about running a jk d30 front as the gears are likely to fail if pushed. One of the forum members just had this happen last week, but they were on penrose (liberty).

With a 44 up front, I'd say sleeve and gusset+chromo shafts 37's are barely more expensive than 35's and you're going to be in the regearing ballpark either way. A jku just looks as I feel it should on 37's. I swear mt/r kevlars design team made them for that vehicle.

Having watched your posts in the past, you are very cautious in general. I don't think you're the type of wheeler (either in terrain or more importantly driving style) that will require beefing everything up beyond belief. I'm sure over time you will anyway, but I wouldn't hesitate to go 37's on your rig as it sits. Talk to wanderlust about the cost to sleeve and gusset that axle (if you don't weld yourself). Typically the cost is pretty low as well. Then run it as it sits, pick up some shafts over the winter when you find a great sale or 20% off coupon... Otherwise check out http://completeoffroad.com/ I ordered my yukon d60 shafts from them and the price was lower than COST for most shops. I think price was about 30-35% lower than other sources.

Bottom line, bite the bullet, go 37's and you will never look back! If you were a "35 guy" this thread wouldn't exist.
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2013, 01:33 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
G-Rocc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 569
I'd say go for it too. It is a huge difference. You won't be disappointed if you do it right.
__________________
Set Them Free Off Road

My Build Thread

Come, let us go up to the mountains.
Micah 4:2
G-Rocc is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2013, 01:36 PM   #20
Jeeper
 
wanderlust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 1,332
Sleeves and gussets in the 4-500 range installed.
__________________
2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
wanderlust is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2013, 01:37 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
wanderlust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 1,332
If you just bring me the axle I will do a smokin deal on labor.
__________________
2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
wanderlust is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2013, 11:12 PM   #22
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Wow, the depth of knowledge on this board is equalled only by the generosity and willingness of those who have it to educate those of us who don't. Thanks to everyone who's posted in this thread. I think this is a really great starting point to begin pricing out some things in getting some quotes. I'll most likely have the majority of the work done at High Country 4x4 as the took really good care of me on my original build and were really great about any follow-up issues I had.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderlust View Post
.....John and I both still run 4:10s for strength reasons. Once you start getting in the the 5:xx range is when you really start to break stuff. Expensive stuff.....
Man I'm running 4:10's with my 35's and I had planned to regear when I put new tires on whether I stayed with 35's or went to 37's. It just seems to be lacking power in certain RPM ranges and gears. Mostly 4th gear and up above about 4K. I was actually looking at some new builds on the dealer section of the AEV site to see what they're using with 37's and I came across two listings with 37's and they're both using 4.56. Here's one of the listings.. I get what you're saying though, having gears in that range probably creates some pretty wicked torque especially when running 37's where there's a lot more traction which would make the gears the strongest link in the chain thus increasing the likelihood of breaking a weaker link some where in the chain. At least I think that's what you're saying, if I'm missing the point just let me know. I wish someone would have advised me early on that the purchase of a Jeep leads to a never ending cycle of upgrades that are bound to push back your ability to retire by at least 10 years. And this is my 3rd Jeep and I can't stop. Maybe it's time to start a support group for Jeepers that just can't break the cycle. BTW, what would you charge to sleeve/gusset and would it be best to do both rather than just the front? Above all else, thanks for you feedback here, it's very helpful.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagerhelix View Post
37s made a HUGE difference. Especially with the longer wheel base on the 4 door. I feel like the longer wheelbase was finally becoming an advantage once I got the belly up a bit more. I'm on 3.5". My setup is rcv chromoly shafts in front with 5:13s and an Aussie locker. HD tie rod, sleeves, gussets, hydro assist steering, and just did new ball joints too. I've got the 3.8 and it was unbearable with the 3:73s. Sleeves and gussets and understanding you can't hammer on it will handle 37s, then you can build from there. Good luck with your decision.
From your avatar it looks like you ditched the fenders. I'd really like to keep mine and I'd prefer not to even trim them. I really like the look of the stock fenders with the AEV front bumper. I don't suppose that's possible with a 3.5" lift is it? My 35's already fill the wheel well when flexed out. I'm guessing I'll need to go to 4.5" and even then I'm not sure if 37's will clear without rubbing? Shit, I never even thought about steering. Was it a must for you to upgrade to a hydro assist when you went to 37's or was that more of a luxury? Thanks for taking the time to post your feedback and the specs on your rig's set-up. Sometimes it's really difficult to get your head around all this shit but you guys are making it a lot easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckenridgeTJ View Post
I have to say go 37's on a jku.... I feel it is the equivalent of 35's on a 2 door/tj.... I have a ton if friends running 37's on the jku rubis with zero issues.... 90% of them are running stock shafts as well. I would be much more concerned about running a jk d30 front as the gears are likely to fail if pushed. One of the forum members just had this happen last week, but they were on penrose (liberty).

With a 44 up front, I'd say sleeve and gusset+chromo shafts 37's are barely more expensive than 35's and you're going to be in the regearing ballpark either way. A jku just looks as I feel it should on 37's. I swear mt/r kevlars design team made them for that vehicle.

Having watched your posts in the past, you are very cautious in general. I don't think you're the type of wheeler (either in terrain or more importantly driving style) that will require beefing everything up beyond belief. I'm sure over time you will anyway, but I wouldn't hesitate to go 37's on your rig as it sits. Talk to wanderlust about the cost to sleeve and gusset that axle (if you don't weld yourself). Typically the cost is pretty low as well. Then run it as it sits, pick up some shafts over the winter when you find a great sale or 20% off coupon... Otherwise check out Complete Off Road | Your Source for Off Road Parts - Axles - Driveline Parts and More I ordered my yukon d60 shafts from them and the price was lower than COST for most shops. I think price was about 30-35% lower than other sources.

Bottom line, bite the bullet, go 37's and you will never look back! If you were a "35 guy" this thread wouldn't exist.
Your reply got me thinking of something I hadn't even considered. This may be a really stupid question but if I'm regearing and doing axle shafts anyway is there any reason I wouldn't want to upgrade to D60's. Somehow I think I'm totally missing something here and this is a really stupid question but I've gotta ask it, I'm here to learn.

I can see how you would interpret some of my previous posts as being cautious however I'm not sure I'd fit into that category. I don't hit the trails unprepared for emergencies and I don't do stupid shit however I get the feeling I wheel much more aggressively than you might think from reading my previous posts. I do think the upgrades you've recommended would be a good starting point without going too overboard and emptying the bank. Thanks again to you and everyone else who's contributed to this thread. Hoping to have all the info, feedback, numbers, and quotes I need to make a final decision by next week so I can get this done and still have a few weekends left before the snow starts to fly.
__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-13-2013, 01:08 AM   #23
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
A couple things worth noting.... My current jeep was wheeled with 40" tires and a stock steering box without assist (just a brace) by the previous owner on the hardest trails in the region (boulder canyon/die trying in montrose, smashing pumpkins in moab's bfe, black hills sd, etc. these trails make penrose and carnage look like a freeway.. He didn't truss/sleeve the axles and the only chromoly was the outer stub shafts. That said when I got it, one of the inner stock shafts was cracked and I am running a d60/d70 combo). I'm also running 5.38 gears a 4.3:1 t case and a v8. The steering will bind up, but not much more so than my tj on 33's did (requiring backing up a bit and turning than re approaching). This will typically occur when all of the weight of the vehicle is on one bound up tire in an off camber situation with a rear tire off the ground.... It's to be expected.

George (I forget his screen name here) has an orange jk rubi.) he is also running 37's and no assist. He wheels smart but very difficult terrain such as penrose and behind the rocks in moab (which I was able to ride along with and almost made a mess in my britches). I'm not sure if he is running chromo shafts though I imagine he is. I know that running 37's he did end up trimming some areas to prevent rubbing without a huge amount of lift. I'd say it looks like a slightly more aggressive stock jk. I absolutely love that jeep...

As for just going to 60's, I wouldn't with 37's. the housing of the diff is quite a bit larger and you lose ground clearance. As a point of reference the price jump for tires is huge from 37>40 (creepy crawlers were 375 for 37's while 40's go for around 600/ea). The rubi is pretty robust as it sits and all the lockers are integrated and just work. The street value for reselling the 44's out from under your rig and replacing with a 60/14bolt could be pretty close but you'll have to consider the lug pattern will also change for your wheels. Unless you are going to start running carnage/penrose caliber trails, I wouldn't go this route.

I wouldn't hesitate for a second to put in some chromo shafts, sleeve and gusset the front, and regear the axles. While you will run at higher RPM's on the highway, gas mileage will not suffer as much and power band will be correct. I'm sure various members on the forum running 37's with different gearing would be happy to let you take their rig for a spin on the street and decide what ratio is best for your wants/needs rather than trying to just guess and hope for the best.

I didn't mean you didn't wheel aggressively, but your preparedness and attitude towards penrose leads me to believe you consider WHAT/HOW you are going to wheel and don't just lay on the gas pedal and start hopping on your rear end. Seeing as you are typically prepared, I'd say just get a aaa membership! (That's what I did 200 mile tow came in handy) . Wheeling smart doesn't meet wheeling like a pussy in my mind.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/15...rongest-axles/ may set you mind at easy.... A 60 is definitely stronger, but you aren't likely to have a catastrophic failure with some mild precautionary upgrades....
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-13-2013, 10:27 AM   #24
Jeeper
 
wanderlust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 1,332
If the sticker shock doesn't bother you, by all means.. Go 60s!
__________________
2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
wanderlust is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2013, 10:58 PM   #25
Rocky Mountain Jeeper

5-Year WF Supporting Member
WF Supporting Member
 
MajorChuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckenridgeTJ View Post
A couple things worth noting....
Wow! Sounds like your Jeep held up to some pretty hardcore use on limited upgrades. That's always good to know.

Yeah, I knew I was missing something on the D60 question, didn't realize you really lost that much clearance from the larger differential but I guess it would make sense they'd need quite a bit more space to house that beefier hardware!

Waiting on a couple of e-mail quotes on a few things but leaning toward 37's. Still hoping to have the decision made by the end of the week so I can get the process started next week and still have some time to hit a few trails before things start getting snowed in. Thanks again for all the detailed info, suggestions, and advice, it's really helped out.
__________________
The difference between a successful person and others is not a lack of strength, not a lack of knowledge, but rather a lack in will.
-Vince Lombardi
MajorChuck is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-18-2013, 03:08 AM   #26
Jeeper
 
BreckenridgeYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Breckenridge, CO
Posts: 640
Don't get me wrong, the diff is only a very small portion on the axle, and you'll always have to pay attention to where it is regardless of axle choice.

That said, 60's are definitely an upgrade..... But considering you already have lockers, and all the associated electrical issues I've heard about with going to tons with jk's, and only wanting 37's, I think you're better off staying with the 44's...
BreckenridgeYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-26-2013, 03:57 PM   #27
Winter Is Coming

WF Supporting Member
 
Oberst Hajj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 808
Images: 7
Not sure if you have seen this little writeup or not on Project JK

__________________
____________________________
My JKUR likes to get high!
Oberst Hajj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:00 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC