against my own advice I'm gonna post in here again.

You've got the wrong wire you need hooked up to the fuel pump.

Not sure how far you have the wiring harness stripped down, but it sounds like you have a wire thats only hot when the key/ignition switch is in the full forward/start position.

Fuel pump has to be hot when the key/ignition switch is in the "run" position". Again depending on how far you have the wiring harness stripped down( the harness for the motor is seperate from everything else ie lights and chit) the only wire you need to find that is hot(can be found with two people and a light tester) when the key/ignition switch is all the way forward is for the starter sylinoid(sp)

Thanks for your help. I didn't modify anything as far as the wiring harness is concerned. The only thing i did was use a wire from the original 2.5 engine coil that was "key on" for the chevy distributer. Everything else was left like it was from stock. I do hear the fuel pump turn on when i turn key on for about 3 sec. Does the computer send a signal to fuel pump relay after the engine is running that i am not getting since i am not using the computer.

Oh wait. after reading this post more info is needed. Sorry. I was assuming a carburated engin and thought back to Fuel injected derby cars for the fuel pump issue.

is the 350 a throttle body or fuel injected setup or is it carburated? I thought I saw etelbrock carb and figured it was carburated.

if its a carburated setup , unless you have an elect. pump wired seperate(key on hot) the fuel pump is machanical and on the pass side of the block. No fuel pump in the tank needed and could be causing the probs with fuel delivery

The 2.5 was tbi fuel injected with a fuel pump in the tank. The chevy 350 that i installed is carb. if this helps.

^ so who invited this jack-azz? sorry that felt harsh, I guess we all have days. but, since all the parts are purchased and fabricating is under way. I will have to use what I got at this point. The slam gaurd oil pan clears my cross member mount after spacing out the engine motor mounts 1/8" each side. so that problem is solved. So I follow you on the vacuum routing to some degree, but on your application did you have to route vac line to your trans vacuum modulator? or would you know for my application if i should run the vac modulator-to EVAP can-to carb? I got the brake booster to the manifold. rear carb to valve cover. upper port(passenger)front carb to vac advance. lower port front carb to?

And yes, please leave comments or suggestions related to conversions. or even to the effect of what a hot head I am (must have been screaming w/ the wife about this very subject...)

K....Sounds like all your carb lines are good. The one on the driverside needs a vacuum plug. Sorry I won't be of any help with the auto tranny I went with a manual SM465 tranny. I have very little experience with the autos.

EDIT: If I had to guess the one to the tranny would come from the rear intake or back of carb.

her is some pics of fan/radiator mounts and shroud i made to solve my space problem due to motor mount that i used.

the radiator is a jegs universal that only cost $170.00 as opposed to all the direct fit conversion radiators for $300.00 and up. The problem was that there was'nt any mounts on it. so I went to home depot and made the mounts using steel stock 3/8 bolts/ washers/ nuts/ rubber stops/epdm rubber. I bent the steel, drilled to join the two halves so I can work on components w/out having to take it all apart. I tapped the 3/8 hole so I could snug the bolt up to the radiator tanks. And using a rubber stop capped the bolt to cushion on the tanks.

In going with the Trans Dapt bolt on cross member conversion mount (i dont advise using this one)and it has placed my engine a little far forward for my liking because it utilizes the frame and front shock tower to bolt on. so I had to create my own fan mount/radiator mount to solve my narrow front of engine to radiator space.

here's a better pic of the mount bolt...

the frame for the fan mount/shroud is 1"x1" aluminum 'L' the red flat stock is steel and a piece of aluminum sheet all came to about fourty bucks. as opposed to about $140.00 retail. The front bolt to the radiator mount is welded and ground flat to the bracket and will serve as the connection for the whole thing to where the original bolts on to.

Here is a pic of the completed motor w/ new pan to clear the cross member motor mount...

This is a better picture of the pan