I am starting my complete swap on Dec. 1st (engine/trans/t-case) I have completed all the pre swap work such as building the motor, rebuilt the T400, and installed a SYE on my chevy np241 t-case w/ drivers drop (92' used w/ IFS) for the engine i used a 85' 350 5.7L block wich i built slightly better than stock w/ matched aftermarket parts namely, Edelbrock.<----(cam/lifters-manifold-carb.) and ended up w/ this short block...

Yum.

Then I turned my attention to the transmission. Now, i should say that I eventually will be using a 700R4 but for right now (or if i really like it) im going w/ a TH400. It was cheap to get the trans at a bone yard, and they are alot tougher than a TH350 and built for towing and alot of abuse. I completely rebuilt the 400 w/ TCI parts: pump, clutches-steels, bands, friction plates, valve improver kit, the whole works. I also changed out my output shaft from a 32 spline that comes on the t400 to a 27 spline that normally came on the 350. I got this part as well as an output shaft housing-to- transfer case plate from Raptor transmissions (CA) and this is the finished trans...now i also have a complete disassembly through pics of this trans.

And next I tackled the tranfer case... I must admit I was at a loss for which to get. There are so many options. But I went w/ this 92' np 241 out of a big azz scottsdale 2500 because I origanally was going to use a TH350 tranny and they both had a 27 spline count. Im not to hip on the gearing that is favorable to jeep builds, but I knew this t-case can withstand heavy loads (2 tons or more) and has a low crawl. I put on the SYE and replaced some other retaining rings and cleaned it up. I still have the flange on the front output cuz i dont have the front shaft locked down yet.

the second picture also has the engine swap motor mount in it. I didnt really know which mount to get either. I went with this one because 1: Im limited in my welding abillity, and it was the strongest looking bolt on. One bad aspect to this style mount is that it attatches to the front shock perch as well as the chassis. I dont really like this because I was planning on cutting the stock shock mount off and use a hoop style mount so i could use 97' and newer style shocks. and have a place to mount my remote resivoir for the shocks. ohh well i'll figure something out...

If you can weld at all, I'd go with this.

Small Block, Big Block or 90° V6 Chevy Crossmember Mounts

Fairly inexpensive, and it also gives you the freedom to "place" the motor as far forward or back as you like.

And lastly a look into the rest of the items in my goodie bag! I obviously wish I could go into a coma and just veg until Dec. 1st so it would get here quicker...I will be keeping a running photo log of any progress, and or problems<--(I'm sure there will be some) and any help or advise will be greatly appreciated. I will only have 2 months to complete the swap. My wife will be off work for that period for maternity leave, so we can have one car down. OHH snap! Im going to be a Daddy again and Im droolin over this project! anyway, im using
*mallory ignition
*holly elec. fuel pump
*650 EPS edelbrock elec. choke carb
*hurst pro-matic shifter
And a bunch of other crap. Next to come after the 8.8 rear end is steering upgrades (havent made my mind up yet) and propane duel fuel conversion...ohh and a "bob" and paint job.

Thanks noise i checked that out...i may just buy one so I can compare between the two. I'm just freeked out by the thought of a chitty weld bouncing my motor that i got like $3,500.00 into but i do like not having to mount by the shock tower.

That one can be bolted as well. You would have to cut it to the right width and then take it to any decent wleding shop to get the triangle mounting welded to the crossmember, tig welded FTW if possible. Not sure how or if there is any adjustment with the one your planning on using but I do know your are going to want to be able to adjust some, trust me.

Best way is to completly mock/set-up the entire driveline if you can before permanatly "locating" anything.

mine adjusts front to back, but not on degree as far as I can tell. but I measured from where my block bolts to the mount and to the firewall to make sure my Distributor will clear, and I also clear at hood/air cleaner. That being said, I DO wish I had the ability to tweak the degree angle. but everything looks in order.

how does yours handle adjusting degree? welding at selected degree?

I mocked it in, with, if I remember correctly, the intake manifold on about a 7* angle, to help with the driveline angle. Bought a alum. riser plate for the carb and machined the reverse angle to level it.

At this point it dun matter anyway, its back under the knife for different axles, flat belly skid, and a swap to run it on pane so the angle doesn't matter.

x2

That SBC looks dead sexy!!! Speaking from experience though, don't expect it to look like that in a few years. Mine used to look like this......




I used these weld in ones from Advance Adapters. CLICK HERE
They are a bit more than the one Noise suggested ($127)but I like em and they let me put them where ever I wanted and they are easier to work around.

I finally got enough pieces together for my swap that I removed my old engine, cut out the old motor mounts and dropped my entire drive train in a few weekends ago. I used Chevy Small Block Engine Mounts for Jeeps and they were pretty easy to work with. I will try to get a pic uploaded so you can see them installed.

X2

My Junk coming back apart today for Project 94YJ Mud to Rock :clap:

and more less a bit of SBC pron

Oh and BTW coyote, the 80's called me as well, they want their t-handle valve cover studs back.

We need to keep this post alive for sure cause I plan on doing the same conversion (5.3 late model to 4l60e maybe). There needs to be a section specifically for conversions!!

ohh I plan on keepin this post alive. Im not starting w/ the project offically until Dec. 1st. Thats when my wife goes on maternity leave. This jeep is my DD so I have to wait until a ride is freed up.

Now I am having a slight problem finding an oil pan to fit my cross member motor mount. the front end measurment for the pan has to be 3-5/8" or shorter. Im using a trans dapt motor mount and they said to use an OEM pan or their slam gaurd pan. Well, the oem one is on there and it DONT fit. so im buyin the slam gaurd one<---pisss me off cuz its 3 times the price, and im skeptical it'll fit cuz the other one they said would work didnt. If it dont work i think i'll take a sledge to the OEM one and move on...lol

I just bought the slam gaurd and the alum. radiator. I also bought a XJ front shaft. I still have to get the work done on that, but i found a place anyway. Im holding off on dealing w/ the front drive shaft just for now cuz im beyond broke...I shoulda spent more at the junk yard and less from Jeggs. But on the upside, besides the actual block and case for the trans, everything is branny new, and built with low end torque and power in mind. trans is built to heavy haul. all TCI, and RAptor guts. I also hope my headers clear my steering shaft,...shoulda checked more into block huggers. headman is just a shorty style. and my mount doesnt give me any lateral movement for the motor.

I also had to fab my own plate for mounting my trans mount to the belly pan. what i did was make a plate that extends out past the tranny on the t-case shift lever side so I can use that "stick-out" of steel to mount my t-case shift bracket to the trans tailshaft bolt hole and to the fab plate. it will make more sense with pictures at a later date when I deal w/ that step. I do have a question though....My stock gas tank: I want to use this Holly fuel pump i got so how do I deal with plumbing it to my tank? I assume I got a pump in the tank currently, should I just get a regulator to lighten up the pressure of my current pump for the carb?

More questions: To chevy conversion guys...any help in routing vacuum lines from carb-to-auto trans. and the evap canister. should i route carb to vacuum advance by itself? will my jeeps vacuum canister be sufficient? will i need to open up one of the block offs on my canister to hook up my transmisson?

Let me tell you what Melba Toast is packin' right here, all right. We got 4:11 Positrac outback, 750 double pumper, Edelbrock intake, bored over 30, 11 to 1 pop-up pistons, turbo-jet 390 horsepower. We're talkin' some f***in' muscle.

allright... i see i have to abandon this thread due to it being jacked. thanks guys...read the title: MY<----95' chevy conversion...your not even answering questions, your just typing away, to what ever guides the B.S. comming out of your mind....i'll start one over later and please dont respond if you dont have any advise or anything to say about MY build. if you want to go on about your build, post it and i'll read it on YOUR OWN THREAD. i wanted a log of a work in progress, and you just F'ked that all up.

oh my

To bad, great post.

I fail to see any problems with what others have posted here? Did you not want any feedback from your build or were you merely posting your pictures and progress on an open forum hoping it wouldn't get noticed or discussed?

This is an open forum and all threads are open for discussion as long as the main topic of the thread stays in tact.

My bad, I didn't realize this particular thread was off limits for comments and that we could only answer your questions, but hey that's all right. I can do that. I don't want to step on someones toes. I mean most of us around here are fairly light hearted and joke around a bit with each other in fun but if you don't like that, I'm sorry.



That is why I suggested these from Advance Adapters. CLICK HERE
They are so much easier to work around, and give you lateral, vertical and horizontal adjustments and they don't come near the oil pan.

I used some oem ramhorn manifolds and 2 90* elbows from autozone. It works great.

To use the Holley pump you could use the return line off the tank to supply the pump, block off the supply line from the tank pump and cut the positive wire for the stock pump. Or you could forgo that and use the stock pump and a regulator like I did. I used this regulator from Summit Racing.

I mounted it on the frame back by the tank. I hooked up a permanent gauge for adjusting and monitoring. There is one line in from the stock pump, a return to the return on the tank, 1 line up to the engine and I plugged the extra 1 or 2 ports.


The only vacuum lines I hooked up are as follows.

2 lines from the back of the carburetor. 1 to the heater controls and the other to the vacuum operated front axle.

1 line off the back of the intake manifold to the brake booster.

1 line from the ported vacuum port on the front of the carburetor to the vacuum advance. On edelbrock carbs its the one on the passenger side.

Your tranny vent just needs to be a hose with a vent cap attached to the frame or firewall. Same for the axles.

The rest was tossed.

This is a good thread that needs to continue. I am considering doing the same thing, so this is a helpful thread.

I am doing a 350 engine swap in a 89 jeep wrangler with a 700r4 tranny and a 231C chevy transfer case,edelbrock carb. and Mr. Gasket regulator with a return line. In the above posts it was said to just use a regulator to regulate the fuel from the existing pump. The problem i am having is when i turn key on the fuel pump it will energize for 3 seconds and motor will start normally but motor will stop running after it runs the gas out of fuel bowl. I know the fuel pump is not pumping after motor starts because i am using a see thru filter. Any ideas with problem?