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Old 11-18-2009, 10:13 PM   #1
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SOA caster angles help questions

I am begining to start the soa part of my project and I have a few ?'s. What is the recommended caster angle to use, the factory? Or should I do whats best for the front driveshaft angles? And for the back? I want to mainly set it up for the best driveshaft angle for vibes in the back. I also have a 1"bl with stock springs would I be able to run 35"s and flex all the way out and have full turning? I plan on making the fenders flatties. Any input would b great.

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Old 11-19-2009, 07:22 AM   #2
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the front axle does not change, leave that the same. setting the rear pinion angle is important.
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:18 PM   #3
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just set the back up for the best drive shaft angle?
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:21 PM   #4
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whats your thought on tire size?
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-21-2009, 05:58 PM   #5
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?
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

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Old 11-21-2009, 06:31 PM   #6
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33's would be a safe bet 35's would be pushing it if you're planning on flexing it out a lot.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:52 AM   #7
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Even with cut flatties in the front?
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:45 PM   #8
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bump
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:56 PM   #9
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you will be able to clear 35's pretty well, i wouldn't go much bigger with your axles you'll be using.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:13 PM   #10
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ok kool man thanks for the response, steering should be clear as well?
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:17 PM   #11
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i'm not familiar exactly with
Quote:
MORE steering conversion stage 2,
but a stock drag link will usually run into the right spring.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:53 PM   #12
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that shouldent be an issue I was thinking about the frame. That is just a high steer kit
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:58 AM   #13
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JMAN

Here are some pictures of the rear to give you an idea.
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:07 AM   #14
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the doc is right on the front. mirror the same angle on top you dont want to change that, and the back (from what i was told) needs to be about 2* down from straight in line with the driveshaft, reason for this is when you go forward the axle wants to spin upward and so you want to be just below the straight line or it will pull further away from the straight line when you pull forward... hope that helps.
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Old 11-24-2009, 07:32 PM   #15
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I havent herd that about the rear, but it makes sense. I will be running a ladder bar to help with axle wrap as well. Would I still use that angle with a ladder?
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'93 Wrangler YJ LT1/4L60E (built up with corvette servo) MORE bomb proof weld in motor mounts, 241C Transfer Case, High Angle Drive line SYE, 8.8" explorer rear, SOA, anti-wrap perches, jks discos, MORE front shock hoops and rear shock extension, MORE steering conversion stage 2, MORE anti wrap ladder bar

'07 4-DOOR JK unlimitedX BFG Tires and JL audio system Rigid Class IV 3500lbs hitch receiver

'98 Chevy S-10 Lowered 5/6"

Carry On 5'x8' Utility Trailer
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yj-genral View Post
the doc is right on the front. mirror the same angle on top you dont want to change that, and the back (from what i was told) needs to be about 2* down from straight in line with the driveshaft, reason for this is when you go forward the axle wants to spin upward and so you want to be just below the straight line or it will pull further away from the straight line when you pull forward... hope that helps.
this is correct, and you still want that with the ladder bar. and yard fab, i can't tell for sure just by a picture, but it looks like your pinion angle is greater than the d shaft angle, if it is thats gonna make the pinion jump all over the place, possible premature u joint failure, and vibes. but it could be just the picture.
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