I have a 1994 2.5l four cylinder that no matter what i do will not start. I just bought it. It ran all the way until the day before i bought it, the kid said he went through puddles and then shut it off to rinse it down and it has not started yet. It turns over however will not produce spark from the coil. I have replaced the coil, cap, plugs, wires, rotor, and crank shaft position sensor. I have 12 volts going into the coil but nothing out. here is where my knowledge ends i need help ready to roll jeep off a cliff

Ignition doesnt work with 12v to the coil but rather an open circuit on the ground side. using a testlight verify power to the coil then hook test light clamp to the positive side of battery and place probe on negative side of coil while cranking, the light should flicker when the coil fires. if it flickers it should be sending spark and you look at secondary ignition (wires,cap,rotor,spark plugs). If it doesnt flicker you need to look at primary side(pickup,distributor,module).
hope this helps you narrow it down.

dont overlook the easy like fuses either.

Have you checked for ECM codes,this where I would try first to make sure that your computer is communicating with the ignition system: Good luck

Put the key in the ignition and turn the key to run (not start), then off, then run, then off, then run (that's 3 runs and 2 offs). Leave the key in the run position. The check engine light will turn on for a few seconds, then turn off, then (sometimes after 20-30 seconds) start flashing. The flashes are counting out 2-digit trouble codes. Fast flashes count up each digit, with a longer pause between digits. 55 indicates the end of all codes.


Code Description
11* No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
12* Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.
13** No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmosphereic) pressure reading at start-up
14** MAP sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
or
MAP sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
15** No vehicle distance (speed) sensor signal detected during road load conditions.
17* Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel (thermostat).
21** Neither rich nor lean condition detected from the oxygen sensor input.
or
Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range.
22** Engine coolant temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
or
Engine coolant temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
23** Intake manifold air temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
or
Intake manifold air temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
24** Throttle position sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
or
Throttle position sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
25** A shorted condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits.
27* Injector #1 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
or
Injector #2 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
or
Injector #3 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
or
Injector #4 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
or
Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
or
Injector #6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
33* An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit.
34* An open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.
or
Speed control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
or
Speed control switch input above the maximum acceptable voltage.

35* An open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan relay circuit.
41* An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit.
42* An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit.
44* An open or shorted condition exists in the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit or a problem exists in the PCM's battery temperature voltage circuit.
46** Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation.
47** Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output.
51** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation.
52** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation.
53* PCM internal fault condition detected.
54* No fuel sync (camshaft signal) detected during engine cranking.
55* Completion of diagnostic trouble code display on the malfunction indicator lamp (check engine lamp).
62* Unsuccessful attempt to update SRI (service reminder indicator) miles in the PCM EEPROM.
63* Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM.

* - Check engine lamp will not illuminate at all times if this code was recorded. Cycle ignition key as described and observe code flashed by check engine lamp.

** - Check engine lamp will illuminate during engine operation if this code was recorded.
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i did the engine light check and got codes 12 and 54, the 12 must be because i took one of the plugs out from behind the windshield washer reservoir but didn't know where to go from there and plugged it back in, and i do not know what i should do about the 54, i don't know because i know i have fuel at the injectors, no idea.

54 sounds like cam sensor problem. easiest to replace the whole distributor.

I would first check to see the condition of the cam sensor remove your distributor cap and look at the pick surface area. the sensor is under your rotor in the distributor. sometimes they can get corroded,its along shot but check it.
Chances are this sensor is your problem,I actually care a spare because I have been burned by these before. I would recomend only replacing the sensor not the entire distributor thats very pricey and they do not come with sensor anyways. Unless you mean a used one, probably hard to come by either way bring yours with you because there are more than one plug option.
You can also damage the crank sensor when you them really wet and the sensor is in bad shape. but is not the code that comes up thast is number 11.
Another tool that worth its weight in gold is a simple automotive sensor tester,not a meter but a sensor tester. you test things like o2 sensors,crank & cam,tps,map ETC.. instead of buying sensors you may not need.

dave your real close to 5,000 posts. pretty cool.

ya, i'm a loser.

all the distributors i ever get are complete units. w/ sensor, cap and rotor even.

but yes, just replacing the sensor part is cheaper.

hey guys well i took the sensor out and underneath it had a fair amount of rust on it, so i called and ended up buying the whole new distributor the local parts stores didn't carry the sensor alone. I have not takent the distributor out yet because of the bolt that holds it down is at a weird angle and i havn't been able to turn it. I bent a few wrenches to get a better angle but both slip off when i apply any force. I did the engine light check again and got 12, and 54 again so i was just wondering would that for sure mean that there was nothing wrong with my computer, or whatever powers my ignition system.

put the distributor on.

The jeep runs like a champ!

Good job! How much did your distributer set you back?

wasn't bad $55 after $30 core charge.